A guide to making a monolithic concrete staircase with your own hands

Are you considering enhancing your house with a monolithic concrete staircase? It’s a project that can improve your space’s usability as well as its visual appeal. In contrast to prefabricated stairs that are delivered ready-made, monolithic concrete stairs are constructed to order and are poured in place to meet your exact specifications.

A monolithic concrete staircase requires the completion of several crucial steps. You must first plan the staircase’s layout and design. Think about things like the amount of space you have available, the style you want, and how the staircase will blend in with the rest of the architecture in your house. Given that it lays the groundwork for the entire project, this planning stage is very important.

The next step is to prepare the site and make the formwork once your design is finalized. Concrete is shaped into the staircase structure using formwork as a mold. It is imperative that the formwork be strong and precisely replicate the intended staircase’s dimensions and shape.

Now that the formwork is in position, the concrete needs to be mixed and poured. A smooth and even finish necessitates close attention to detail in this step. Depending on the type of concrete used and the weather, it may take several days for the concrete to cure and harden properly.

Your new staircase’s sturdy structure will be visible once the formwork is removed and the concrete has had time to cure. The staircase can now be finished with any finishing touches to make it both aesthetically pleasing and long-lasting, like smoothing over any sharp edges or applying a protective sealant.

For those who enjoy do-it-yourself projects and want to add something special to their house, building a monolithic concrete staircase can be a rewarding and challenging project. Following these guidelines and taking your time to make sure each step is completed correctly will help you build a staircase that fulfills its functional need while also standing out as a unique feature in the interior design of your house.

Step	Description
1	Prepare the formwork: Mea Once cured, carefully remove the wooden formwork to reveal the finished staircase.

Advantages of concrete stairs

The installation of a concrete staircase occurs during the building of a private home as opposed to a wooden one. This is one of the object’s details that strengthens its structural integrity. The structure also has the following benefits:

• reliability, strength, long service life;
• moisture resistance, minimal risk of fire;
• the possibility of laying together with the building, which ensures savings;
• use of corrosion-resistant steel reinforcement;
• possibility of finishing with any building material;
• resistance to negative external factors, increased use.

Choosing the type of staircase

Prior to beginning construction, you should choose the appropriate, high-quality building materials, as well as the type of structure and staircase shape. It is not advisable to cut corners when buying raw materials because the final product’s dependability and durability are heavily influenced by their quality. After the steps are poured, the staircase cannot be used right away because it will take up to four weeks for the concrete to solidify. It is only then that the formwork can be taken down. The location of the building and the procedure for opening the doors must also be predetermined.

Monolithic staircases can be classified as spiral (or screw) or straight (single or double flight) based on their design. Because the screw options with the race steps are more aesthetically pleasing and in higher demand among customers, they are typically completed by an individual order. However, they do require the execution of formwork with a radial form.

A simple solution would be a one-story, straight interfloor staircase situated between two walls. In this instance, the formwork is attached to the walls, and the structure won’t have any ends. Building a monolithic or semicircular structure that rests on a single wall is more challenging. One side portion of the structure must be added in order to design the free end. One option is the marching system, in which the formwork is assembled using side elements and the walls are not supported (the upper and lower floors act as load-bearing elements).

However, preference is given to a two-flight option with winder steps or platforms between the flights because there is not always enough room to build a single-flight option.

Additionally, concrete stairs can be type-set, combined, prefabricated from flights manufactured in a factory, and monolithic.

The first kind can be installed anywhere (on the porch, street, or basement) and is done instantly using the technology of pouring concrete solution into the formwork.

A complexly shaped metal structure with concrete steps is the second option. Formwork and reinforcing mesh are utilized for each step casting, and granite gravel and marble crumbs are utilized as construction materials. The surface has been polished after drying.

Apartment buildings are the primary use for prefabricated marches from factories; however, this option is also available if you have a small lifting crane and so desire. The primary benefit is cost; the drawback is that it is restricted to standard sizes.

The concrete beam (Kosoura) and individual steps—which can be rectangular, triangular, corner, or grooved—are the components of the tint types. The factory produces reinforced concrete species with a standard shape and size specifications.

We’ll take you step-by-step through the process of building a monolithic concrete staircase from scratch in this extensive guide. Whether you’re a do-it-yourself enthusiast or a homeowner trying to give your place a special touch, this post will offer helpful hints, comprehensive instructions, and professional guidance to help you confidently take on this demanding but worthwhile project.

The calculation of the stairs

Prior to beginning construction, you must measure the area and create a plan, drawing, or project of the intended design that includes a preliminary computation of each element’s size and other necessary information. The number of steps, height, width, and structural parameters are all reflected in the development of the drawing. Generally speaking, the steps are 15–18 cm high and no wider than 80–90 cm at the minimum. It’s also important to consider the thickness of the decorating material, be aware of building codes, work in phases, and keep in mind the existence of fences and embedded elements.

The angle of rise

The angle of inclination, or rise, is the first parameter whose value determines the structure’s height and length. Therefore, a product with a 25° tilt angle will be longer than its equivalents with 35° and 45° indicators when both heights are equal. Building materials will be used 2.35 times less frequently for the construction of a 45-degree staircase (projection of 3 meters) than for a 25-degree product (projection of 6.4 meters).

You must select an angle of rise in accordance with the leadership based on the suitable march size, the structure’s complexity, and its comfort.

Step sizes

After determining the height and angle of inclination, the next step in designing concrete stairs is to divide them into individual steps. For calculating width, a step size of 27–30 cm and height of 16–20 cm is ideal. You will find that it is more difficult to move along higher steps for older people and those used to standard steps. For adults, very small steps (less than 15 cm) will also be uncomfortable, but this is the best option for kids.

The following formula can be used to choose the step parameters: 2H+L = 60-64 cm, where H stands for riser (step height) and L for tread (width). You can compute using the following indicators: 2*18+30=66 cm.

Stair width

Generally speaking, the width of a staircase in a country home is determined by the available space or the distance between the walls. It shouldn’t be 80 cm because that will make someone feel as though they are in a tunnel when they are lifted to the second story via a narrow staircase or descend from it. Carrying any items will also be inconvenient. Thus, 90–120 cm would be the ideal size.

Building a safe and secure fence is essential, especially if there are children and/or elderly residents of the home. When calculating, keep in mind that if the fence is situated on the steps, it will slightly reduce the effective width of the flight.

Online calculator for calculation

A handy online staircase calculator is available for all calculations at your convenience.

Formwork assembly

Once the computations are finished, you must construct the formwork by hand. You will need the following supplies for construction:

• moisture-resistant plywood 1.2-1.8 cm thick, edged boards 3 cm thick for the bottom of the formwork, edging and risers;
• sheets of moisture-resistant plywood (0.6-0.9 cm each) for the manufacture of curved zones;
• support beams 10×10 cm or boards 15-17 cm wide and 5 cm thick for supports;
• beams 10×10 cm for mounting boards or plywood sheets;
• metal corners;
• fastenings (wood screws) 3.5 mm;
• concrete, trowel for leveling mortar, trowel, device for smoothing the edges of concrete structures.

You must grind the wooden formwork components that come into contact with the mortar in order to guarantee that the concrete surface stays smooth after hardening. There’s no need to use leveling procedures when working with smooth plywood.

The steps listed below must be used to assemble the formwork:

• the lower part is made of large boards and plywood sheets. They are tightly fastened together with bars from the outside. The bottom of the structure is supported by beams or boards, and the pitch of the supports must correspond to the pitch of the steps. The parts are secured with self-tapping screws, which are convenient to unscrew during dismantling;
• On the sides they place a flange made of edged boards or plywood, reinforcing it from the outside with boards;
• Mount the attacks of the risers to sew or wall with metal corners;
• joints in parts are sealed with a mortar of cement and sand or leveled with a plane or grinder.

The structural strength increases with the thickness of the beams. A reinforced concrete structure will weigh a lot, so it needs to be considered while it is being built. Cross bars allow you to increase the rigidity even further.

Reinforcement

Mesh can be used as reinforcement for a small staircase in a cottage. It is tied from reinforcement measuring 1-1.2 cm at a distance of 15-20 cm (the mesh cells will be 15×20 cm). Wire is used to connect the rods.

Large products need to be constructed from a reinforcement frame, which should include multiple meshes welded or supported by vertical rods. Two to three centimeters separates each grid.

The horizontal rods of the frame, which is the part of the structure where the frozen concrete solution will be fixed, need to be fixed in the wall in pre-drilled holes. Two to three centimeters below the bottom of the formwork is where the mesh or frame is placed (the reinforcement can be raised using stands, bricks or stones). You must install metal plates or plugs where the railings are located.

Pouring concrete

A grade of concrete not less than M200 (from class B15) is used during the concreting process. The following ingredients must be included in the solution, which is mixed in a concrete mixer or obtained from RBU: Twenty parts sand, seven parts water, thirty parts crushed stone fraction of 10–20 mm, and ten parts cement. If the mixture is thick, you can incorporate three portions of water.

You must now accurately fill out the composition:

• the lower steps are performed first;
• the solution is compacted to give strength and density. To do this, you can use reinforcement that is used to pierce the concrete in several areas. Professionals recommend applying a more reliable way – a construction vibrator that squeezes concrete through the formwork;
• giving the steps the correct shape, smoothing them with a trowel;
• pouring the remaining elements and the porch;
• covering the solution with a film to protect it from cracks and early hardening. You can also regularly moisten the outer surface of the flooded area with water.

Removing formwork

Concrete strengthens in four weeks. You must take the boards off of the sides and steps after seven days. A grinding machine or grinder with a wheel for processing concrete is used to level the freed surfaces. The supporting beams from the structure’s lower section are removed after 21 days. Additionally, the remaining formwork cannot be removed in its entirety until the 28th day.

Although it may seem impossible, building a monolithic concrete staircase is absolutely doable with the right planning and equipment. You’ve been guided through every stage of the process by this guide, from assembling the formwork to pouring and polishing the concrete. Recall that it’s important to take your time and not rush any steps in the procedure.

All throughout the project, safety is vital. Make sure you adhere to all safety instructions and wear the proper protective gear. Making sure your workspace is safe will allow you to concentrate on your work and prevent mishaps. You can avoid future problems by verifying your measurements twice and making sure your formwork is securely fastened.

Tenacity is your greatest ally. For concrete to properly set and cure, time is needed. Your staircase’s durability and strength may be compromised if you rush this step. To increase the longevity of the concrete, give it enough time to cure and maintain moisture in it. If you have a little perseverance, you can have a stunning, well-built staircase that enhances the aesthetics and value of your house.

Finally, if you need assistance or guidance, don’t be afraid to ask for it. There’s a lot of information out there, whether it comes from online communities or a friend with experience. A satisfying project that can increase your self-confidence in do-it-yourself construction is building your own staircase. Enjoy the journey and be proud of the finished product!

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