Best Ways: How to Fix a Hole in Drywall?

Because it’s smooth and easy to install, drywall is a popular material for interior walls and ceilings. But it’s also vulnerable to harm. Any homeowner can benefit from knowing how to repair drywall, regardless of the size of the hole or dent. Although patching a hole in drywall may seem difficult, it’s actually a very simple process if you have the right equipment and know how.

A putty knife and some spackling compound can be used to quickly patch up small holes caused by nails or screws. If the holes are larger, you may need to remove the damaged drywall and replace it. To guarantee a seamless repair that blends in with the rest of the wall, it’s critical to follow the correct procedures.

The best ways to repair drywall holes, from small dents to larger damage, are covered in this article. Everything will be covered, including the supplies you’ll need and the detailed instructions for fixing and finishing your wall. You’ll be ready to take on any drywall repair project in your house by the time it’s finished.

Causes of holes in the wall

Although GVL and GKL are frequently used for cladding, we will only take into account damage to walls or partitions that appears as holes or dents. The topic of repairing seams and cracks is another.

Notably, dents can also be thought of as holes because, in most cases, a dependable repair requires drilling out, cutting out, and removing the damaged, weak area completely.

The subsequent repair process is identical to that of through holes. Small dents are an exception, though they can be filled in and sealed with putty.

Both drywall and gypsum fiber are frequently referred to as the first term in daily speech. For the sake of conciseness, we will also make this generalization in this article: because these products are so similar, the repair is 100% the same, using the same materials and tools.

We will provide clarification where necessary. However, first we clarify the distinction between GVL and GKL. Оногда инизируются как "гипроком" от названия фирмы с особой технологией их производства.

Cutbacks:

  1. GKL, GKLV, GKLVO-plasterboard sheet, waterproof, waterproof-oynetric.
  2. GVL, GVLV – plaster gypsum fiber and water (moisture) persistent. There is no separate marking for refractory, since all such material by default is such.

You can determine the variety of GCL by looking at its various colors. GVL typically lacks marking shades. Beneath the surface finish, these materials can have a smooth or rough texture.

The most common thickness for plasterboard used for partitions is 12.5 mm or greater; this is referred to as "wall" material. Additionally, there are thin sheets (9.5 mm "ceiling") that are appropriate in situations where a structure that is not heavily reinforced is needed. For sound absorption, there’s a porous version available.

While much stronger and more stable, gypsum fiber is stiffer and more prone to breaking when bent.

In the event that 12.5 mm is the minimum required for gypsum plasterboard partitions, then 10 mm of gypsum board would match this measurement. Thickness is important because it should match when making a patch to close a hole.

Citation! Partitions are usually made of waterproof or even fireproof material. Self-supporting walls are frequently made using both the standard version and even thin sheets.

Gypsum fiber and drywall repair are the same. The properties and structures of these materials are comparable. GVL gypsum is mixed with fluffed (20–25%) cellulose fiber; additional modifying agents may be added.

In terms of damage susceptibility, gypsum fiber is more rigid and, as a result, brittle when bent; however, it is significantly more resilient when subjected to direct impact and harsh environmental conditions.

While drywall is easier to shape and more flexible than GVL, it lacks the same level of reinforcement.

The gypsum fiber sheet is slightly harder to cut, which is the only repair difference.

For drywall, a heavy, yet not very strong, poke with the foot is sufficient to create a dent; for a through hole, one or two medium-strength blows with a hammer are sufficient. However, it must be acknowledged that gypsum fiber is far more resilient and that holes in it occur less frequently because it requires an incomparably greater amount of effort to destroy or create any noticeable defects.

The only mechanical factors that can cause damage to appear on drywall, such as holes and dents, are impacts and pressure.

  • pokes;
  • falling heavy objects;
  • punctures with sharp or blunt objects;
  • failure of fasteners, traces of them.

Different levels of damage can occur to drywall. The same blow, for instance, won’t harm a well-made, properly installed slab, but it will result in the appearance of a hole or depressed section on a weakened, improperly installed sheet.

The following are some examples of indirect causes that compromise the material’s structure:

  1. Changing the temperature and humidity conditions when using a non-moisture resistant type of material. This is often observed when the heating season is delayed, during season transitions. When these factors change in an unheated facility, gypsum plasterboard draws moisture from the air. Often the partition is plastered with gypsum mixtures, which contributes to this. The seams contain a lot of this composition and it is not covered with cardboard, so they are saturated faster.
  2. Environmental parameters exceed standard resistance. For example, even moisture-resistant gypsum board or gypsum board in a wet location will become unusable relatively quickly, and a hole will appear even from a weak poke.
  3. Incorrect design of seams through which moisture penetrates into the sheet.
  4. Defects in the product itself (defects, low quality), which lead to failure to withstand standard loads, contribute to weakening; such material can be pushed through with gentle pressure.
  5. Strong systematic vibration, for example when the building is located near transport communications, weakens the plasterboard structure. However, impacts of this kind with sufficient force to cause damage are extremely rare. But this factor should not be completely excluded.
  6. Periodic cycles of severe wetting/drying, especially if such processes are shortened in time and temperatures are large with sudden changes. This includes the systematic influence of condensation, steam, violations of installation technology, for example, when the installation is done when the finishing in the room is not completely dry with the windows closed.
  7. Other indirect reasons: mobility, shrinkage of the house, sheets “walking” due to an incorrectly installed frame.

Be aware that indirect causes frequently result in self-tapping screws loosening because of the weight of the equipment hanging on them; the weakened material becomes brittle and can no longer hold the screws.

In such a scenario, simple fasteners will come out more quickly and easily, and the hole will be neat and possibly cause little to no collateral damage. However, they tend to use butterfly dowels more frequently, and in this case, the edges will probably be loosened and torn out "with meat."

Furthermore, it should be noted that indirect factors are essentially inconsequential for gypsum fiber due to its greater strength and particular lack of significance for moisture-resistant materials. However, we have included them because they cannot be totally disregarded.

Direct mechanical forces are the primary and exclusive direct cause of dents and through holes:

  • blows;
  • pressing;
  • tearing out fasteners with a mass of hanging objects.

Incorrectly fastened fasteners (not in the frame or reinforcing board) or non-drywall intended fasteners are removed in various ways: in the best scenario, they just come loose; in the worst scenario, they come "with meat," meaning substantial cracked segments and dimensional pieces of material that also cause the edges of the damage to loosen.

If there is a frame (which the partition typically has), you must screw screws into it in order to hang anything on gypsum boards or gypsum boards.

Also, where the self-tapping screws are fixed, reinforce with bars, shields, and jumpers.

Use of the unique butterfly dowels ("Molly") is required. If you choose not to reinforce, you ought to at the very least make use of this particular hardware.

We mentioned the influence of moisture as one of the factors weakening drywall; this affects less moisture-resistant varieties of gypsum plasterboard, particularly gypsum board, which is more frequently used for partitions due to its strength. This indicates that under such circumstances, within reasonable bounds, the material—regardless of its waterproof nature—will quickly lose its usability in a stable “wet” environment.

Crucial! Cracks and holes/dents have different characteristics, and they require somewhat different repairs.

The list of causes for the former is considerably longer; in this case, the variables we mentioned as having an indirect influence directly cause gaps to occur.

Also, numerous additional points are included:

  • incorrect installation of the frame (the spacing of the planks is not observed, wet wood);
  • miscalculations when sealing seams, etc. P.

That is, they need to be distinguished from the repair of these damages.

Compared to cracks, the conditions for holes and punching are far simpler. The following factors are included in a short list:

  • blows;
  • pressing;
  • pressure on the material (mostly point);
  • punctures;
  • breakdowns;
  • pulling out screws.

Fasteners frequently leave holes in the sheets:

  • unscrewed;
  • remote;
  • have become unnecessary;
  • from those drilled incorrectly;
  • when fitting to the frame.

Materials

Consumables and materials for sealing holes

  • Regular gypsum putty. They recommend Knauf Fugenfuller (Fugenfüller, Fugen), designed specifically for sealing gypsum boards.
  • Covering (last) layer – the same or any satengips (Satengips Knauf).

In the unlikely but still possible event that drywall is installed outside, it is sealed with cement plaster and puttied for external use. The same materials—that is, those intended specifically for exterior (facade) work—are used to repair it. Here, there is a sizable price range.

Regarding dry putty mixtures, the most affordable item we could find online was 113 rubles for a 25 kg bag.However, there is a higher-quality product available for an average price of 250–350 rubles, as well as a higher price of approximately 800 rubles for a 20–25 kg bag.

Crucial! It should be noted that the mixtures must be mixed right away before beginning work because they set and harden quickly.

Additionally, you’ll need:

  • short screws (black for wood, 50…60 kopecks. per piece.);
  • a piece of unnecessary plywood, a thin board (for sheathing strips when sealing large flaws);
  • scraps from the same drywall for cutting patches out of them;
  • paint, if the topcoat is made from it.

There are pricey putty mixtures (800–900 rubles/25 kg) for sealing; one such product is Knauf Uniflot, which doesn’t require reinforcing mesh and is incredibly durable thanks to unique reinforcing additives.

Craftsmen frequently use the tried-and-true Fugen + serpyanka tape, which is considerably less expensive (a roll costs roughly 100 rubles), but has the same effect because it contains reinforcing material.

Tools

The following instruments are needed to prevent damage to gypsum board and gypsum board partitions:

  1. Wide spatula (from 20 cm) for more convenient pulling of the mixture both along and across.
  2. Narrow spatula for comfortable mixing of putty, filling with the mixture and working it out, picking it up when using the previous tool.
  3. Phillips screwdriver for pulling out self-tapping screws so that the tool does not cling to them. There are spatulas on sale with it on the other end.
  4. Large stationery or construction knife for cutting, adjusting sheets, trimming edges.
  5. Hacksaw, jigsaw, if the damage is significant, have specifics, that is, if significant trimming is required.
  6. Bucket, any similar container for mixing mixtures. For each composition you will need a perfectly clean vessel. You can also use a tray – it is convenient to roll out paint in it, collect solutions from it.
  7. Brushes, a roller, which will be used to apply the primer.
  8. Centimeter, ruler, pencil for marking.
  9. Drill with a mixer attachment for mixing solutions. You can do without it, do this with a spatula, any stick or something similar.
  10. A screwdriver with crown attachments for adjusting damage, creating holes of the correct shape from them for convenient sealing. And also for cutting round plugs from plasterboard scraps. This tool can be replaced with a hacksaw for cutting gypsum board or one for metal, any other, but with fine teeth. You can also work with a knife with a thin blade, but it is somewhat more difficult to use.
  11. A chisel for stripping, similar work. For the same – sandpaper (the finest grain) or a diamond mesh.
  12. Brush to remove dust.

Methods and instructions

It is deemed a technological infraction to finish gypsum, putty, and other materials with a single layer. It is advisable to abide by this rule, but it is more pertinent for thorough work and less significant for hole repairs.

In every situation, the surface must be primed—preferably twice—before beginning work, with the exception of small holes and recesses that should be filled with acrylic sealant after putty or similar finishing techniques.

Note: It is recommended to use sickle tape; you can omit it for tiny holes, but it won’t harm you in these situations or any other, save from extremely tiny holes.

There are various sizes for holes. Though there are a few minor variations, the techniques for getting rid of them are generally the same:

  1. Small holes and recesses without cracking around the perimeter can simply be filled with sealant, then puttied and painted over.
  2. For larger ones, you will already need a cork made of gypsum plasterboard, gypsum fiber board (wood can also be used), and in the worst case, from paper, rags.
  3. For particularly large ones – a patch made of the same plasterboard with a mini-sheathing, and there is also a need for reinforcement with sickle tape.

That is to say, as the parameters rise, the task becomes more complex and involves more manipulations, but every technique is founded on the same idea:

  • filling the hole with patches and sealing materials;
  • hiding traces of work performed by puttying, sanding, finishing.

Sometimes partitions are painted, and putty is covered with the same finishing. However, we have to consider that selecting an exact match is not feasible unless the same paint is still available.

Small variations in the chosen composition that are roughly the same color won’t be noticeable if there is a tiny hole; they will blend in with the main tone. However, the partition is frequently entirely repainted after significant flaws are fixed.

Since the mixtures are typically in a similar color range, it would seem that the problem of the disparity between the tones of the main finish and the patch is easier to solve if the partition has a finishing coat in the form of plaster. This is untrue; a novel solution will always vary somewhat, be duller or lighter, but only ever slightly.

How to close up dents?

Putty can be used to easily clean and repair uneven areas if the dent is small, the cracks are localized, compact, and in a closed circuit circle. If there is also every indication that the cracks won’t get any bigger, you can even use it to seal a closed circuit.

It can be used with the acrylic sealant already applied. After that, complete the wall like the remainder of it. It’s sufficient to cover seizures with paint, gypsum, sealant, or grinding.

When embedding dents, for consistency, you can:

  1. A little remove the cardboard with sandpaper and press the reinforcing net into the applied sealant or putty, so it will not bulge.
  2. Then apply the shelter layer of the same mixture or sataengips on it.

More drastic measures will be needed if the material on the dent is held flimsily, falls out, gets wet, crumbles, or if the flaw is large (exceeding 10–15 cm).

Cutting this segment and capturing a small, "healthy" site around its perimeter, then sealing it with a patch, is unquestionably the best—and sometimes the only reliable—outcome.

To cut, use a saw (preferably small cloves), a thin-bladed knife, and a sandbody with a round crown drill bit, creating the appearance of extensions.

Particularly small holes (up to 1 cm)

Similar to punctures, self-tapping screw holes can be:

  1. Fill in any acrylic sealant.
  2. Burn with putty.
  3. Leave it as it is if the color coincides.

Take note! Occasionally, a chopic made of wood or sawed from the same drywall and finished with gypsum is used to plug a gap; you can reinforce this type of plug by using the methods mentioned above.

Small groats (1 – 3 cm)

Phases of the fix:

  1. If there are fasteners on the damaged area, then you must first install additional ones, then remove those that will interfere with work.
  2. Use a knife to cut and remove loose, damaged parts of cardboard, plaster, and soaked segments. Clean off dust with a brush.
  3. Apply a thin layer of putty with a narrow spatula, level it with the same tool and a wider one. Wait 24 hours for the mixture to dry.
  4. Lightly sand the sealed surface with sandpaper and wipe with a damp sponge to remove mortar stains.
  5. For better quality, apply another layer of putty. And this will also eliminate the shortcoming if the first one turned out to be too thin, that is, the surface levels are different. It’s not scary if there is a protrusion, since then they make adjustments using sandpaper, that is, they compare, grind.
  6. After these procedures, wipe with a damp cloth to remove stains from the mixture.

That is to say, in this instance, the hole is only sealed with putty, and you can use paper or rags to plug the hole to improve the putty’s stick.

Using a sickle mesh is also advised. Gypsum can be used as an alternative to putty.

Medium holes (3 – 6 cm)

Utilizing a plywood stencil and inserting a crown through the opening.

Some pictures of the work in progress:

Detailed repair instructions:

  1. Cut out a stencil from a piece of cardboard (plywood) in the shape of the most suitable hole geometry – square, triangle, circle – with a size slightly larger than it. Apply it to the hole to be sealed and trace it with a pencil.
  2. Using a knife, saw, or screwdriver with a crown, make a hole in the plasterboard along the intended contour. This way, all unevenness, soaked, flimsy segments will be removed.
  3. From a scrap, unnecessary piece of drywall, cut out a patch with a size approximately 5 cm larger than the stencil. Apply it to the back side of this future cork, outline it with a pencil.
  4. They cut along the intended contour, break off the edges along it, thus adjusting the patch, removing excess pieces. But they leave a segment of face cardboard about 5 cm wide around the entire perimeter of the cork. To do this, they make an incision and breaking off, and not a complete circumcision.
  5. Using a narrow spatula, apply a thin layer of putty around (around the perimeter) of the hole and along the edges of the plug. Insert the patch so that the left facing piece of cardboard is outside the hole, it has a solution on it, so it will stick well. Make sure that the patch is flush with the surface of the gypsum board sheet.
  6. Use a narrow spatula to level the putty. They wait for it to harden for a day.
  7. Sand with sandpaper and wipe with a damp cloth to remove stains and excess solution. Apply a second layer of putty, and a third if necessary.

An example of how to create a patch using a piece of cardboard that has been left on

How to put in this kind of plug:

  1. Carefully grab the edges and turn with your face up into the hole.
  2. Apply gentle pressure until the surface of the cork with the remaining cardboard is level with the surface of the wall.
  3. Smooth with a spatula to level and expel air bubbles, press the “skirt” firmly to the surface. Putty is applied to the center of the patch, the tool is moved, starting from there and to the edges.

Sanding and painting are the last steps, which are done with putty and a spatula:

Large holes (8 – 10 cm or more)

Guidelines for patching big holes in plasterboard partitions (8–10 cm and larger):

  1. Cut out a stencil from plywood or cardboard in the most suitable shape (square, triangle, etc.). d.), slightly larger than the hole to be sealed. Apply this matrix to the hole and trace it with a pencil.
  2. Using a knife or a universal saw, make a hole in the partition sheet along the intended contour.
  3. Cut out several strips of 2.5…7.5 cm wide from plywood or boards (not too thick) for future sheathing, 15 cm longer than the defect being repaired. They are pushed in and placed from the inside, secured to the back side with short screws.
  4. Make a patch identical to the size of the stencil from an unnecessary piece of gypsum plasterboard, insert it, and attach it with screws to the sheathing equipped, as we described above.
  5. Make sure that the cork is flush with the surface, and use a spatula to apply a thin layer of putty around its perimeter.
  6. Reinforcing tape is laid along the joints of the patch, pressed into the solution, and a covering layer is applied on top. Wait 24 hours., until the mixture hardens.
  7. Apply a second layer of putty, and, if necessary, a third; for the latter, satengypsum can be used.
  8. Clean the surface with sandpaper and wipe with a sponge to remove stains from the solution.

A few additional images showcasing various facets and phases of the project:

Possible errors and difficulties

Errors and challenges when caulking openings and crevices in gypsum plasterboard and gypsum fiber board partitions:

  • Incorrect choice of repair method according to the hole dimensions. Small flaws (up to 1 cm, sometimes a little more) can simply be sealed with acrylic sealant. You can also push in paper or rags, that is, a not very solid plug will suffice, and seal it with putty. But for large holes, a full-fledged patch will be required, for especially significant ones – one on the sheathing with reinforcement of the joints with sickle tape. However, the latter reinforced version is desirable for all fairly large holes, the size of which allows you to make a frame for the plug.
  • Repairing dents leaving broken and loose drywall. Such repairs will be unreliable. It is more advisable to cut out this part altogether and make a full-fledged patch: if the hole is small, create a plug with the front edge of the cardboard, and for patches for large holes, arrange a mini-crate.
  • The thickness of the cork plasterboard sheet with sheathing is too thick compared to that from which the partition is made. In this case, the surfaces will not be level, sanding will not help – it will remove a layer of cardboard, which will weaken the material, this segment will be more susceptible to moisture penetration.
  • The putty was applied poorly – air pockets were left on the edges and at the joints of the material. If there are gaps that are not filled with the mixture, the patch will hold weakly. Here it is better, and even advisable, to overdo it a little, that is, apply too much of it – finishing cleaning and sanding will eliminate unevenness.
  • If you are installing a mini-frame for cork, it is advisable that the wooden planks be thoroughly dried. If their humidity is high, deformation may occur, which will damage the structure. However, even if changes occur, due to their insignificant size they will be insignificant and, most likely, will not have any effect, but still, if possible, this rule is recommended to be followed.
  • It is important to clean the area being repaired from dust, grease and dirt.

Crucial! It’s okay to choose a slightly thinner piece of drywall for the patch because putty can be used to level the surfaces.

Accurately estimating the extent of the damage and choosing a suitable repair technique are essential. The frame patch needs to be firmly fastened around the edges, through the partition’s main plasterboard, and straight along this plug to the sheathing strips.

Rags, paper, and other similar materials can occasionally be used in place of a full-fledged cork made from the same plasterboard; this is acceptable, but the cork will be extremely flimsy and will only be pushed through with minimal pressure.

With the front piece of cardboard still attached, it will be beneficial to create a patch using the same gypsum plasterboard or a comparable solid material (wood, gypsum plasterboard), and ideally create a sheathing for it.

A wooden board can be used in place of the sheathing; this will be as sturdy and dependable as possible, but it will require more effort to install.

Price

The following are the typical costs for fixing holes and dents in plasterboard partitions:

  • Traditionally, craftsmen working alone or as part of private small teams have a more affordable price list – 70…125 rubles. in one hole. Discounts are possible for more defects. This means holes of reasonable size. If they are very large, for example, 20×20 cm, then the price is determined individually by the master. And vice versa, if the flaws are very minor, which only require sealing with acrylic sealant, then it can cost 30…50 rubles./PC.
  • The company"s services will cost 100…170 rubles. for filling one hole, the rules for changing prices by size are generally similar, as we described above.

When is it appropriate to repair a sheet??

If there is a lot of damage, it is best to replace the drywall on the partition entirely. For this, the hole’s dimensions are decided upon individually.

Possibility:

  1. If a third or half of the slab is damaged, is it not better to dismantle it, unscrew the screws from the frame, remove it and install a new one?.
  2. Not repairing, but replacing the sheet is sometimes appropriate for medium-sized holes, if it is clear that the plate is old, noticeably weakened, with cracks, crumbling, there are delaminations.
  3. If you do repair it with a cork, you will have to make a bulky sheathing for it, which will add labor intensity; it’s better to invest these efforts in more reliable work.

In situations where the cause of the hole is solely direct mechanical influence—that is, the flaw developed as a result of an impact or pressure—these may be the only situations where repair is not appropriate.

If the cause is entirely or partially attributable to indirect factors, repair may only yield temporary results.

  • improper installation;
  • in the ongoing shrinkage of the house;
  • mobility of the base;
  • vibrations (for example, a highway near the house);
  • long stay in difficult conditions;
  • old age, which weakened the structure of the gypsum board.

However, in this instance, cracks typically occur (their sealing is a different matter entirely); the holes that are mentioned are the ones that hardly ever appear and nearly always necessitate additional direct mechanical influence (impact).

It is not a direct cause to the above. For instance, the structure of the sheet weakens with poor installation, mistakes made when sewing the sutures, especially in challenging (wet) conditions, and minor strikes that result in flaws that wouldn’t be on high-quality material.

These are typically dents, but you could also think of them as holes because, in most cases, the damaged part needs to be removed during repair.

Crucial! It is preferable to replace the GKL sheet entirely if it becomes evident during the sealing process that it has taken on an unusual condition, such as detachment, cracking, sprouting, or increased fragility.

Ideally, remove the weakening factors in addition to the replacement:

  • check, fix the step of the frame planes;
  • close the seams more thoroughly;
  • If the material in difficult conditions protect it with cement plaster and/or two layers of paint, etc. P.

Useful video

Watch this fascinating video where a plasterboard manufacturer’s master discusses how to fix wall holes:

Method Description
Using a Patch Kit Patch kits come with everything you need to fix small to medium holes. Simply follow the instructions to apply the patch, sand it down, and paint over it.
Applying Joint Compound For smaller holes, you can use joint compound. Fill the hole, let it dry, sand it smooth, and then paint over it.
Replacing the Drywall For larger holes, cut out the damaged section, insert a new piece of drywall, secure it with screws, apply joint tape and compound, sand it smooth, and then paint.

Although patching a hole in drywall can initially seem difficult, anyone can do it if they take the proper approach. The most important steps are to prepare the area, apply the patch that is appropriate, and finish it smoothly so that it blends in with the surrounding wall, regardless of the size of the hole or dent. You can return your wall to its original condition without any obvious damage by carefully following these steps.

Spackle or a pre-made patch can be used to quickly repair small holes and dents. You may need to replace a portion of the drywall or use a drywall patch for larger holes. To achieve a seamless finish, don’t forget to smooth out the patch and apply multiple thin layers of joint compound, sanding in between. Painting and priming the repair correctly will guarantee that it blends in flawlessly with the surrounding wall.

Take on this project yourself without fear. You can save money and feel good about a job well done with a few simple tools and supplies. You’ll soon have a wall that looks brand new if you take your time and follow the instructions. Such home repairs not only make your space look better, but they also help you become more adept at do-it-yourself projects in the future.

Repairing a hole in drywall is an easy do-it-yourself project that can help you save money and time. The best techniques for fixing holes of all sizes, from tiny nail holes to more significant damage, will be covered in this article. We’ll go through necessary equipment, supplies, and detailed instructions to make sure you achieve a polished finish without hiring a contractor. These ideas will make it simple and quick for you to return your walls to flawless condition, regardless of your level of DIY experience.

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