Creating a concrete floor on the balcony, features of laying linoleum, paint, tiles on top

Building a strong foundation is the first step towards transforming your balcony into a fashionable and useful area. When you create a concrete floor, you can add linoleum, paint, or tiles to customize the surface, and it will also be durable and versatile. Because of its strength and resistance to weather, concrete is a great material for balconies and a dependable option for long-term use.

A useful solution with a variety of design options is to install linoleum on a concrete balcony. In addition to being strong and simple to maintain, linoleum comes in a variety of designs and hues to fit any style preference. To achieve a seamless finish, make sure the concrete surface is dry, clean, and smooth before installation. Maintaining the linoleum properly guarantees longevity and improves the balcony’s aesthetic appeal.

Painting a concrete balcony floor protects it from weathering and adds a splash of color. Select an exterior-grade concrete paint that is of a high caliber and made to endure weather and foot traffic. In order to ensure that the paint adheres properly, preparation is essential. This includes priming the surface, cleaning it, and filling any cracks. For extra safety, especially in areas that are likely to get wet, think about applying textured or non-slip paint.

An attractive and long-lasting option for improving outdoor areas is to tile over a concrete balcony floor. Because they are long-lasting and moisture-resistant, porcelain or ceramic tiles are a popular choice. Before installing tiles, make sure the concrete base is adequately cured and structurally sound. To secure the tiles and create a level, smooth surface that blends in with the design of your balcony, use the appropriate adhesive and grout.

Is it possible to do it on the loggia??

Technically, because there is a fire protection wall where people can wait for the fire brigade to arrive in total safety, a balcony is just a means of evacuating residents from a burning apartment according to current regulations.

With regard to this, balcony finishing is typically either completely absent or done so minimally.

Modern developers, however, rent out apartments that already have glazed balconies and loggias. This is required by the municipality’s authorities for urban planning and architecture because the building’s facade must be constructed in a uniform manner. Some property owners even turn these chilly areas into cozy spaces by connecting them to living rooms, bedrooms, or kitchens.

The majority of homeowners choose to finish their balconies, which calls for the installation of a completed floor covering in certain situations and a full screed composed of concrete or cement-sand mortar.

Requirements

Concrete floors must meet a number of requirements to guarantee strength, tightness, and other crucial technical qualities, depending on how the balcony is used and what kind of major or cosmetic finishing is intended in this utilized space:

1. For balconies and dens connected to warm rooms, the cold space completely loses its original function, as it becomes part of the apartment or house, turning into a bay window. Screeds on such balconies are subject to the same requirements as for residential premises.
2. For glazed balconies and loggias:
3. Mechanical strength of the screed – from 25 – 30 MPa and more.
4. Frost resistance of concrete – from F75 and above.
5. Water resistance of the structure – from
6. Thickness – from 50 mm without reinforcement and from 70 mm with a steel or composite mesh.
7. Waterproofing – coating or polymer, for the tightness of the structure.
8. Resistance to abrasion – from 0.6 – 0.8 g/cm2 .
9. For ventilated unglazed balconies:
10. Concrete strength – from 30 – 35 MPa.
11. Concrete frost resistance class – from F100 or more.
12. Water resistance – from W6 and more.
13. Screed thickness – from 70 mm, subject to reinforcement can reach 100 mm.
14. Mandatory waterproofing device in 1 – 2 layers of bitumen or polymer materials on fiberglass.
15. Abrasion resistance – from 1.0 – 1.3 g/cm2 .

A minimum durability indicator of 15 to 20 years without the need for premature restoration or replacements is one of the primary requirements for a concrete screed on a balcony. This indicator should also be at least as long as the building’s other load-bearing or enclosing structural elements.

All balconies and loggias must comply with this requirement, regardless of how they are used in a specific home or public area.

What documents establish?

The following legislative acts and regulatory documents, which are in effect in our countries, govern the aforementioned structural and functional requirements:

1. SP 63.13330.2018. Concrete and reinforced concrete structures.
2. GOST 27006-86. Concrete. Squad selection rules.
3. GOST 25697-83. Reinforced concrete slabs for balconies and loggias.
4. GOST 26633-91. Heavy and fine-grained concrete. Specifications.
5. GOST 31489-2012. Garage equipment. Safety requirements and control methods.
6. GOST 13087-2018. Concrete. Methods for determining abrasion.
7. SP 29.13330.201.1. Floors.
8. GOST 30459-2008. Additives for concrete and mortars.
9. SP 54.13330.2016. Residential multi-apartment buildings.
10. SP 71.13330.2017. Insulating and finishing coatings.

Manufacturers who are officially registered in the Russian Federation develop their own recipes and TU when producing concrete components for screeds. Prototypes are sent for testing on designated stands as building materials are produced, with each prototype being sent for testing only when necessary.

If every test is completed successfully, protocols are created and the manufacturer is given a TU certificate of conformance based on those protocols. This grants him the authority to lawfully supply the products to the market and create a quality passport that details the precise technical specs of each finishing material. Designers and developer representatives use these specs to ensure the facility is successfully commissioned.

Design and pie

Due to the generally uniform design of balconies in residential and public buildings, the screed pie is assigned with a standard set of different layers based on whether the cold-exploited space is open or closed, specifically:

1. Glazed balcony:
2. Sanded and repaired balcony slab.
3. Waterproofing from bitumen mastic.
4. Rolled waterproofing with gluing of the lower part of the walls along the perimeter and with the formation of a fillet in the area where vertical and horizontal structures meet.
5. Insulation made of polystyrene plates, thickness 50 mm.
6. Reinforced concrete screeds with a thickness of at least 70 mm.
7. Self-leveling floor, if necessary,
8. Penetrating waterproofing screed.
9. Finish floor covering.

• Coating waterproofing laid on top of the cantilever floor slab on the balcony.
• Non-reinforced concrete screed with a thickness of 50 mm or more. If there is a mesh – at least 70 mm.
• Penetrating additives to reduce porosity and increase frost resistance, for example, liquid glass or corundum toppings.
• Self-leveling self-leveling layer up to 10 mm.
• Finish floor covering, resistant to atmospheric precipitation, if it is provided for by the requirements of the working design.

In order to prevent the transfer of cold and precipitation into the warm room, special attention is paid to the junction of the remote cantilever slab of this structural element with the temperature cut and the outer wall of the main building, regardless of the composition of the floor pie and the concrete screed on the balcony.

In this regard, a rubberized elastic cut-off is also installed at the locations where the slab meets the wall. A cement-sand mortar fillet is used in these locations, onto which two to three layers of adhesive waterproofing pieces are fused.

What type of concrete is suitable for screeds??

To lay a screed for the balcony’s floor ideal for practically any heavy concrete that satisfies the following design and functional specifications and is based on hydraulic binders, fine and coarse aggregates, plasticizers, water repellents, and modifying additives:

• Concrete class for compressive strength – not less than B15.
• Material class for tensile strength – from B_t 2.5 or more.
• Frost resistance of the material – no less than F
• Water resistance of concrete – from W4 – W6 and higher, depending on whether the balcony is glazed or not.
• The toxicity indicator of modifying polymer additives is from T1 and below.
• Cement brand – for a glazed balcony, M300 is allowed, but it is recommended to use the M400 or M500 brand.
• The amount of cement in a cement-sand screed is from 20% – 25%, in a concrete structure (using coarse granite aggregate) – from 15%.
• Quartz sand with a fraction from 2 to 5 mm, in an amount of 50% – 75%.
• Fine washed granite crushed stone with a fraction of 10 – 20 mm – from 0% to 25%.
• The total mass fraction of plasticizers, water repellents, modifying and other additives, including antifreeze components – from 2% to 5%.
• The water content varies depending on the required mobility of the finished mixture – up to 90 l per 1 m2 – P2, up to 110 l – P3, from 110 – 120 l and above – P4, to achieve self-leveling properties.

It is permissible to install insulation as part of the screed when finishing an insulated balcony. Experts advise against combining screed concrete with other porous aggregates, such as expanded clay, as this will drastically impair the building envelope’s mechanical and physical qualities.

Under such circumstances, it is advised to first install a higher-strength reinforced screed composed of heavy concrete, then pre-lay polystyrene slabs on the cantilever slab’s leveled base.

There’s one more thing to consider: any screed is made of dense materials, which means that it puts additional, continuous static strain on the balcony slab. In light of this, it is advised to perform a thorough calculation of the loaded console prior to erecting this structure and, if required, to reinforce the slab.

Mixing the solution

It is not at all necessary to hire professionals to install a concrete screed on a balcony.

Usually, you can perform all production operations to create the material yourself, and there are no additional labor costs associated with these works.

The master will need specific concrete ingredients in the right amounts, a set of tools and electrical equipment that must be bought or rented from a specialized retail store, and meticulous adherence to every point on the technological map provided below in order to mix the screed.

Tools for work

Depending on the extent of the project and the stage of production, the property owner will require the following tracking tools and equipment to create a screed on a balcony:

1. To prepare the base:
2. Grinding machine with a set of abrasives.
3. Or a brush with stiff bristles to clean the floor slab from dust.
4. Rags for wet cleaning and degreasing the surface of the cantilever slab of a balcony or loggia.
5. A propane cylinder, as well as a gas burner for installing bitumen adhesive waterproofing.
6. For taking measurements and applying markings:
7. Laser level.
8. Construction bubble level.
9. Laser or mechanical tape measure with a metal blade.
10. Steel ruler with a length of 1 m.
11. Carpenter"s square with edges from 300 mm long.
12. Marker for applying the level of the top of the future screed.
13. For creating a concrete mixture:
14. Mixer with a rotary hopper and an electric motor. It is recommended to rent equipment with a hopper volume of at least 150 – 200 l.
15. Scoop for dosing dry ingredients.
16. Scales with a weighing limit of 150 kg or more, for dosing the mixture
17. Measured container for precise dosing of additional ingredients and modifying additives.
18. Bucket for collecting clean water, or a hose connected to a domestic water supply.
19. For laying concrete in the structure:
20. Stretcher or wheelbarrow for moving the prepared concrete from the mixing site to the installation area in the structure.
21. Rule for smoothing the laid mixture between the beacons.
22. Bulgarian or scissors for metal for cutting the reinforcing mesh in the desired dime.
23. Wizards, or graters for finalizing the plane of freshly laid concrete.
24. For care Behind the freshly laid screed:
25. Water capacity.
26. Thermal insulating mat.
27. The heat gun for installation on the balcony in the cold season, in order to create conditions comfortable for hardening concrete.
28. Grinding machine or heap for finalizing the plane after setting strength.

Every piece of electrical and tool equipment should be fully functional, of excellent quality, ready for use, free of debris, and safe for the user to handle.

Step -by -step instructions for pouring

Should a complete set of tools and equipment be available, all tasks involving the creation and application of a concrete screed on the balcony must be carried out strictly in compliance with the subsequent detailed instructions:

• The cantilever floor slab on the balcony is inspected for defects – shrinkage or through cracks, chips, cavities, delamination or traces of impact.
• If necessary, a non-shrinking high-strength cement mixture is diluted to a plastic state, after which it is applied with spatulas to previously cleaned and dust-free areas of the balcony slab.
• Wait until the repair composition dries completely – from 24 to 36 hours.
• The plane of the balcony slab is being polished.
• The entire surface is dusted, swept, wet cleaned, followed by drying of the material.
• Bitumen mastic is applied to the prepared surface of the slab in 2 layers, strictly extending to areas of adjacent walls, to a height of up to 100 mm.
• On top of the coating waterproofing, technoelast or other adhesive bitumen membrane is glued, using a gas burner to melt the binder component.
• Insulation is laid out on the waterproofing – polystyrene foam boards, which are fixed “locked”, in the edges, onto the mounting foam.
• Spacer plastic spacers are placed for laying reinforcement mesh.
• The screed structure is reinforced with masonry or road steel or composite mesh.
• Galvanized beacons are fixed to the plastic cement-sand mixture at a distance of no more than 500 mm from each other, the upper mark of which exactly coincides with the surface of the future screed.
• Dry concrete components – cement, sand, crushed stone – are poured in the required proportion into the mixer receiving hopper.
• The dry screed ingredients are mixed.
• When the dry mixture acquires a uniform shade, and there are completely no solid lumps in its structure, water is dosed, strictly 1 – 3 liters at a time, with constant stirring of the composition.
• When the solution reaches the desired degree of mobility, the necessary water repellents, antifreeze and other polymer modifying additives are added to it by dosing using a measuring container.
• The solution is poured into a wheelbarrow or stretcher, after which it is evenly distributed over the plane of the balcony.
• Concrete is leveled using a rule or vibrating screed and compacted with surface vibrators.
• Waiting time for the substance to set.
• Care is provided for the freshly laid concrete mixture, up to 7 days, to gain at least 70% of the design strength.

In 2–3 weeks, at room temperature and humidity, a concrete screed becomes stronger. But after three to four days, you can walk on it. To prevent the growth of mold and mildew, the finished floor installation should wait until all of the water has evaporated from the building.

Insulation

The following types of insulation are used under the screed if building an insulated balcony is required to close the cold circuit:

• Extruded polystyrene foam boards with a density of 35 kg/m 3 .
• Mineral wool boards of the RUF BATTS type, with a volumetric weight of at least 90 kg/m 3 .
• Backfill of fine expanded clay spilled with cement laitance.

Concrete balcony or loggia screed insulation made in line with the following basic technology map:

• The slabs are laid out on a pre-leveled and prepared base until they fit in their entirety.
• Additional locations are marked after measurements are taken.
• The insulation is cut with a construction knife with a retractable blade.
• Additional slabs are pricked with force into the seats formed for them.
• All joints between polystyrene plates are foamed with polyurethane foam.
• Mineral wool boards are laid out with slight compression of the material – 5 – 10 mm, which eliminates the formation of gaps.
• Expanded clay is simply woken up with a layer thickness of up to 50 – 100 mm over the entire plane and poured with the required amount of liquid cement laitance, after which 24 – 48 hours are waited for the binding components to harden.

It should be noted that the thermal engineering calculation of the structure and the space-planning solutions of the cold circuit—specifically, the mark of the top of the finished floor, which must satisfy the operational requirements—are the two primary factors that determine the thickness of the insulation.

Waterproofing

For both glazed and ventilated balconies, waterproofing is an essential structural component that is made of the following materials:

• Bitumen mastic in liquid form, factory-made.
• Hot molten bitumen.
• Technoelast – bituminous waterproofing on fiberglass.
• Polymer high-tech innovative waterproofing membranes.
• Penetrating waterproofing or liquid glass – strictly after the screed has gained strength.

Waterproofing is a responsible procedure that requires consideration of the following work stages and the technology roadmap:

• Liquid mastic is applied to the prepared surface of the balcony slab and rolled out using rollers.
• After polymerization of the substance, starting from the far wall, the adhesive waterproofing is rolled out.
• As it is rolled out, the material is heated by burners until the bitumen base spreads.
• Adjacent rows of waterproofing are glued together using the same temperature treatment.
• The amount of overlap between adjacent materials is no more than 50 – 100 mm.
• If it is necessary to install a second layer, it is laid in the same direction, but with offset parallel seams.
• Pasting or coating waterproofing should be installed not only on the floor slab, but also on adjacent walls, along the entire perimeter of their connection with the horizontal plane, to a height of up to 100 mm.
• Cooling of bituminous materials with their hardening occurs within 1 – 2 hours, after which it is possible to carry out related work on installing a floor pie in a cold room.

The effect of waterproofing will be completely lost if these specifications for the work’s design are disregarded, as the property owner will have to remove the screed and redo all of the sealing work on the balcony or loggia in order to ensure tightness.

Features in technology when installing a warm floor

The floor pie slightly alters and now includes the following layers and structural components in the event that a warm floor is installed on the balcony beneath the screed:

• The insulation is laid strictly under the elements of the warm floor.
• An additional insulating layer is required – a heat-reflecting foil membrane, directly on top of the insulation.
• The reinforced screed is poured in a layer of 50 mm, and only after it hardens, the warm floor mats are laid out, which are also poured with a thin layer of screed.
• For pouring the floor under the tiles, it is allowed to seal it in a layer of tile adhesive.
• A mandatory device of a temperature sensor, which is directly connected to the temperature controller and the automation system. This will allow you to maintain a constant stable microclimate in the room, as well as turn off the heated floor in time, protecting the screed from overheating and destruction.
• Linoleum flooring requires only an infrared heated floor, which heats not the material itself, but physical objects installed on the balcony.
• When installing a heated floor, it is recommended to move the temperature controller into a warm room, and install a separate automatic machine in the panel.
• All cables coming from the underfloor heating contacts should be laid in corrugations to allow them to be repaired or replaced in case the entire system fails. This will prevent the need to dismantle the screed if it breaks.

Installing a water-heated floor is not advised because, in that scenario, the floor would need to be kept on all winter to prevent inadvertent pipe freezing, which would cause the pipes to burst and depressurize the entire closed circulation ring. Balconies, loggias, and terraces that double as functional roofs above the underlying premises are exempt from this requirement.

Rules and technology of care

In order to optimize the strength, dependability, and durability of a concrete screed on a balcony or loggia, along with its resistance to abrasion, it must be properly maintained. This involves following this straightforward algorithm:

• Immediately after pouring, compacting and leveling the concrete mixture, it is necessary to wait up to 12 – 18 hours for the binder material to finish setting.
• Next, it is recommended to cover the screed with heat-insulating mats.
• After 24 hours allotted for the beginning of hardening, the screed is moistened with a small amount of water, which activates a repeated chemical reaction and allows it to gain the design strength.
• If the temperature on the balcony is below + 5 o C, it should be installed on a heat gun to speed up the process of strengthening the material.
• Spilling and heating are carried out up to 5 – 7 days.
• If shrinkage cracks form, it is recommended to immediately iron the screed with dry cement and then flush these areas with water.

The cement-sand screed sets two hours after pouring, can be walked on the following day, and completely hardens in two weeks, subject to a layer thickness of up to 70 mm, under normal temperature and humidity conditions.

For concrete structures up to 100 mm thick, the material takes 28 days to fully harden after pouring; however, this time frame can be shortened to 2–3 weeks if plasticizers and other modifying additives are used.

Alignment

The following efficient methods are used to restore the structure if potholes, chips, cavities, cracks, or signs of delamination appear on the concrete after it has been poured or as it is used extensively:

• Grinding the screed using special machines with abrasives of different grain sizes – in the presence of minor defects in the concrete surface.
• Milling the plane with special tools with blades for concrete, which remove the top layer by 10 mm or more, which is especially important when installing a screed on a non-reinforced cantilever slab of a balcony or loggia.
• Local cutting down of a concrete structure and replacing it with a patch made of similar materials.
• Installation of self-leveling self-leveling floor.
• Installation of a duplicate screed on top of an existing one.
• Sealing cracks, chips, cavities, non-vibrated areas and other defects with repair non-shrink mixtures.
• Complete dismantling followed by installation of a new concrete or cement-sand screed.

Since repair and restoration work will actually cost significantly more, it is necessary to completely remove any defective areas and replace them with a new concrete screed if they make up more than 40% to 50% of the total area of the structure.

In the video, the alignment features are explained in full:

Creating a durable and aesthetically pleasing concrete floor on your balcony involves several key steps and considerations. From preparing the surface and ensuring proper drainage to choosing suitable materials like linoleum, paint, or tiles, each option offers distinct benefits and challenges. Linoleum provides a cost-effective and easy-to-install solution, ideal for adding comfort and style. Paint offers versatility with various colors and finishes, requiring proper sealing for durability. Tiles, on the other hand, offer durability and a wide range of design possibilities but require precise installation to prevent cracking. Understanding these features and methods ensures you can select and install the best flooring option that suits your balcony"s needs and enhances your outdoor space effectively.

Protection and processing

Following pouring and strengthening, it is advised to take the following steps to reinforce the binder material structure in order to prevent the concrete screed from experiencing sudden physical deterioration:

• Ironing the screed by rubbing dry cement of a high grade, or cement laitance or dough, into the pores of the top layer of the hardened structure.
• A device for penetrating waterproofing that fills all pores with a viscous substance, forming a polymer film that strengthens the crystal lattice of the screed.
• Applying a layer of liquid glass on top of the concrete screed – a silicate additive with polymer components that form a dense and homogeneous mass, repeatedly increasing all the durability of the structure.
• Installation of self-leveling floors with various water-repellent additives.
• Applying a layer of paintwork over a previously applied primer.
• Installation of coating or adhesive waterproofing on top of the screed.
• Installation of innovative polymer film on adhesive compounds, or by heat treatment of the material to improve adhesion.

There is a wide range of different penetrating liquids with polymer ingredients that are readily available for screed structural strengthening. The nation of manufacture, the brand, and the material’s chemical makeup should all be considered when making a decision because the latter should not include any harmful substances that could endanger human health.

Coverage options

Upon finishing an intricate balcony decoration, users frequently apply a variety of finishing decorative materials to the screed. The most common coating types and how they are installed to improve the overall durability of the structure are covered in detail below.

Linoleum

One of the least expensive and most resilient materials for finishing screed on a balcony or loggia is linoleum. Depending on the type of cold circuit, this material is laid out with the following considerations:

1. For indoor balconies:
2. Penetrating waterproofing is placed on top of the screed, after which a self-leveling floor solution is poured.
3. After hardening is complete, the linoleum is rolled out over the entire surface.
4. The material is marked and pre-cut to the required size for precise laying without joints or overlaps.
5. The linoleum is turned over with its back side up, after which an adhesive composition that is resistant to temperature changes is applied to it.
6. The material is carefully laid out over the entire surface of the balcony and rolled with heavy hand rollers.
7. After the glue has polymerized, you should cut off the excess parts around the perimeter of the walls and install the plinth.
8. Operation of linoleum is possible within 6 – 12 hours after its installation.
9. Bed in the open balcony – the main difference lies in the composition of the linoleum itself – for normal operation, you should not buy materials with a heat-insulating base. The best solution would be to choose a solid baseless polyurethane coating with a rough surface that prevents your feet from slipping. It is recommended to lay linoleum not with an adhesive composition, but with mechanical fasteners, or select an adhesive with cement components that have excellent frost-resistant properties.

It is also advised to provide mechanical linoleum fastening along the entire balcony perimeter, followed by pressing the material with a wooden or plastic plinth, to prevent delamination of the adhesive mass due to temperature changes during the cold season.

Is it possible to paint and with what??

Applying paints and varnishes for internal or external work with a higher frost resistance coefficient to the balcony’s concrete floor. If you follow these guidelines, it’s also among the most affordable and useful finishing options:

1. For indoor balconies:
2. The screed plane is ground and, if necessary, milled.
3. In case of large pores or frequent defects, it is recommended to install a self-leveling self-leveling floor.
4. The hardened and dust-free surface is covered with a penetrating primer with polymer water-repellent agents to improve adhesion and close all pores in the concrete.
5. The paint is diluted with a solvent if this recipe is described in the instructions on the can.
6. The paint and varnish composition is poured into a paint ditch.
7. The paint is applied strictly along the same track, in parallel rows, with slight overlaps between them.
8. The second layer begins to be laid after the previous one has dried.
9. It is recommended to apply the second layer in an orthogonal direction relative to the previous one.
10. For floors that are subject to intensive use, it is recommended to apply at least 3 – 4 layers of concrete paint.
11. After application, wait time for the paint to dry completely.
12. At the final stage, it is recommended to cover the painted surface with a protective varnish with anti-frost components.
13. For open balconies – the technology for applying the paint and varnish composition is similar to painting the floor on glazed cylinders, but the difference lies in the working conditions – the screed must be completely cleaned and dried, and all installation operations begin strictly in the absence of rain or snow.

In order for the top layer to fully acquire an elastic, uniform structure, the paint must begin to polymerize as soon as it is applied and continue to do so for at least two to three days. By doing this, the material’s resistance to wear will be greatly increased, saving the user from having to regularly restore the clean floor.

Tile

Regardless of the intended use of the space, adhesive-composed porcelain tiles have long been a common floor covering for warm and cold circuits. Compared to heated rooms, the technology used to lay tiles on a balcony or loggia is slightly different, and the master must consider the following subtleties:

1. For indoor balconies:
2. The screed plane is treated with concrete contact using a roller.
3. Markings are applied to the screed to ensure the correct geometry of the future tile plane.
4. Tile adhesive is diluted in a separate container using a mixer attachment on a drill.
5. The substance is applied with a notched trowel to the backs of the tiles, as well as to the screed, strictly after the concrete contact has polymerized.
6. The first tile is fixed by pressing with your hand, excess glue is removed with a trowel.
7. The position of the first tile is checked by level.
8. The second tile is laid next to the first, and plastic spacers are installed in the seam.
9. After laying the first row, the level of the horizontal plane is checked again, after which some of the tiles are adjusted with rubber mallets.
10. The second and subsequent rows are assembled in the same way, with the obligatory installation of crosses.
11. The outer rows are marked with a marker, after which they are cut with a tile cutter or grinder with a diamond disc.
12. Upon completion of the work, the plane is checked again in all directions. If necessary, some of the tiles are leveled with a mallet.
13. Wait for the glue to dry, the recommended period is 24 hours.
14. Crosses are removed from the seams, all gaps are dust-free and cleaned of remnants of hardened tile adhesive.
15. The grout is diluted with anti-frost additives and with the selected shade of pigment.
16. The diluted mixture is applied to the seams of the tiles using a rubber spatula to achieve a completely filled gap.
17. Upon completion of the work, all tiles are cleaned of excess construction mixture, after which they can be used as usual.
18. For open balconies – the technology for installing tiles is completely identical with the difference that frost-resistant adhesive is often used to fix them.

Uneven static loads on poorly glued porcelain stoneware frequently lead to its destruction, so if the above subtleties are ignored, the tiles on the balcony will soon start to delaminate, crack underfoot, and fall off, necessitating re-laying and, in some cases, replacement.

Bulk with polymers

Installing the self-leveling floor can serve two purposes: either as a stable and leveling foundation for any other decorative materials mentioned above, or as an independent finishing coating if pigments resistant to UV rays, temperature fluctuations, and precipitation are added to its composition. Several prerequisites must be fulfilled, contingent on the type of space to be utilized, in order to install a self-leveling floor:

1. For indoor balconies:
2. The concrete coating is treated with standard concrete contact.
3. The self-leveling floor is diluted in water until it reaches a semi-liquid state.
4. Antifreeze components are added to the solution.
5. The mixture is poured onto the screed in a layer of up to 5 – 10 mm.
6. Wait until the composition is completely distributed over the entire surface of the balcony.
7. The self-leveling floor is leveled using a special toothed roller.
8. For open balconies:
9. In addition to concrete contact, it is recommended to pre-treat the screed with liquid glass or other polymer penetrating additives.
10. For pouring, it is recommended to use a ready-made factory-made mixture, which is supplied in buckets, with the necessary plasticizers and anti-freeze ingredients that ensure normal operation of the hardened coating at temperatures down to -25 – 30 o C.
11. The technology of installation and leveling of liquid mixture remains the same as for glazed balcony.

The primary drawback of this type of flooring is its protracted hardening process, which can be attributed to the hydraulic binder—cement—in its foundation. All work should only be done during the warm season, and operations should not begin earlier than one week after the liquid material is laid in order to prevent premature material destruction.

Wooden

Installing ecologically friendly natural wooden boards or parquet as soon as the concrete screed is poured is a straightforward and useful solution. As a result, it is advised to consider the following details when installing a wooden floor because natural fibers decompose when exposed to moisture and dry out when exposed to direct sunlight.

1. For indoor balconies:
2. It is recommended to install a wooden floor along joists, since it is convenient to lay insulation made of mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam between them.
3. Screed on such balconies is arranged immediately after the adhesive waterproofing, with a thickness of no more than 40 mm, since it is needed only to level the plane of the console plate of the cold circuit.
4. Immediately after polymerization and strengthening of the screed, wooden blocks with cross-sectional dimensions from 40 x 40 to 50 x 50 mm are laid out and fixed on top of it.
5. The bars are laid out to form an orthogonal cell with dimensions of up to 500 x 500 mm.
6. Elastomeric materials or bitumen hoist are laid on top of the sheathing to prevent rotting of the material.
7. Between the sections of the sheathing, mineral wool is placed in the form of slabs wrapped in a vapor barrier film, or polystyrene foam, which is subsequently caulked with frost-resistant polyurethane foam at each joint.
8. Upon completion of the work, the final covering of floorboards is fixed to hidden fasteners made of parquet nails.
9. Each board must be securely clamped to the previous one with a clamp, in order to avoid the formation of cracks during operation of the coating.
10. For open balconies:
11. Both coating and adhesive waterproofing are installed on top of the slab.
12. Immediately after waterproofing, a layer of vapor barrier membrane is laid.
13. A cement-sand mixture is prepared according to a previously developed recipe, which is poured in an even layer of 40 – 50 mm until a perfectly flat plane is achieved.
14. A breathable membrane made of polymer porous components is placed on top of the concrete screed.
15. After the membrane, moisture-resistant plywood is laid onto which the wooden floor boards are fixed.
16. Upon completion of the work, all boards are scraped and coated with weather-resistant varnish or paint for exterior use.

It is also advised to use only hardwood boards for this type of flooring, as this will completely prevent any significant shrinkage, cracking, or swelling that could cause the balcony’s even plane to be disrupted.

Advantages and disadvantages

Almost any kind of finishing work can be used to create a screed on a balcony. This design has numerous unquestionable benefits, which accounts for its growing appeal among consumers, skilled artisans, and property owners:

• Increased strength of the material after hardening, provided that the main components with the required technical characteristics are selected.
• Versatility – concrete can be used as a reliable base for any type of finished floor on a balcony, regardless of its thickness and performance properties.
• The ability to produce concrete using modifying additives, which greatly increases the frost resistance and water resistance of the structure, and also enhances the mechanical strength of the concrete structure.
• Possibility of pouring screed of any thickness, starting with a screed layer thickness of 50 mm.
• Possibility of installing insulation and waterproofing under the screed with further reliable protection of these materials.
• Possibility of independent installation of screed, without involving professionals.
• High indicators of maintainability.
• Possibility of pouring liquid material into pre-prepared formwork of any configuration.
• High durability, subject to compliance with the technology during pouring – the screed can serve in normal climatic conditions for up to 15 – 20 years, without the need for its restoration or replacement.
• Possibility of carrying out final mechanical treatment to increase the bearing capacity and durability.

Meanwhile, because concrete screed has several drawbacks, it is occasionally substituted with other cutting-edge materials when pouring concrete screed on balconies.

• Increased density of the material leads to a significant increase in the load on the balcony cantilever slab.
• Duration of hardening – to gain 100% of porosity, several weeks are required (from 2 to 3).
• Difficulty in carrying out work in the cold season.
• The need to ensure care during hardening, since shrinkage cracks may occur on the surface.
• Mandatory reinforcement of the structure of concrete, provided that the screed is filled over a layer of elastic insulation, since concrete works very poorly to bending and stretching.
• The high cost of concrete, compared with other finishing materials for repair work in residential premises.

In order to avoid going against the volume-planning guidelines, it is therefore advised to ascertain the type of finishing coating and learn the high-rise mark from the cold room’s floor to ceiling before selecting the screed device for the balcony.

The cost of work on the device

The cost of materials and labor is always the responsibility of the property owner when screeding a balcony. The following materials for concrete, reinforcement, and enhancing the future structure’s mechanical and physical qualities must be purchased in order to build it:

1. Factory-produced dry mixes, presented on the market:
2. Dry sand concrete mixture M300 – 125 – 145 rubles. for 40 kg.
3. Sand concrete dry mix M400 – 165 – 175 rub. for 40 kg.
4. Specialized sand concrete strength grade M500 – from 215 rubles. for 40 kg.
5. Portland cement brand M400 – M500 – 480 – 820 rub. for 50 kg.
6. Inert materials – aggregates for concrete mixture (sand and crushed stone):
7. Quartz-based quarry sand, coarse, medium-sized, or washed river sand, dried until sufficient moisture is achieved – from 2200 – 2550 / 2750 – 3250 rubles. per 1 m 3 .
8. Crushed stone based on natural granite, with broken sharp edges, fractions 15 – 20 mm – from 5000 – 6200 rubles. per 1 m 3 .
9. Polymer or mineral modifying additives for concrete, improving its physical and mechanical characteristics:
10. Antifreeze components up to -10 – 15 o C – 420 – 570 rubles. for 10 l.
11. Plasticizers to increase the setting period of a plastic substance before or after laying its design position – 350 – 450 rubles. for 10 l.
12. Modifying components for liquid concrete with various polymers – 320 – 580 rubles. for 10 l.
13. Epoxy resins with a two-component composition, helping to reduce the porosity coefficient and, accordingly, increasing the water resistance of the material structure – 220 – 420 rubles. for 5 l.
14. Methyl acrylates and other additives based on active polymers with different states of aggregation, penetrating action – 85 – 155 rubles. for 1 l.
15. Water repellents that envelop the entire surface of hardened concrete with a transparent, elastic and moisture-proof membrane – from 3200 – 6000 rubles. for 20 l.
16. Reinforcing road mesh:
17. Road steel mesh d5 – d7 A500s, square 100 x 100 mm – 430 – 710 rub. for 1 m 2, supplied in the form of ready-made welded cards with various overall dimensions, in accordance with GOST requirements.
18. Masonry mesh made of steel bars d3 – d4 A500s, with a cell of 50 x 50 mm or 50 x 100 mm – 150 – 250 rubles. per 1 m 2, supplied both in cards and in rolls, according to GOST.
19. Waterproofing materials, vapor barrier, thermal insulation:
20. Vapor barrier membranes – 1.45 – 2.05 thousand. rub. for 50 – 110 m2, most often produced in rolls.
21. Pasted bitumen or elastic impermeable polymer waterproofing membrane – 1.75 – 5.35 thousand. rub. for 6.5 – 25 m2 . The final price is determined by the manufacturer, chemical composition, technical characteristics of the material.
22. Insulation made of extruded polystyrene foam, in the form of high-density slabs, with shaped end edges for reliable interlocking – 4.8 – 7.8 thousand. rub. per 1 m 3 .

Usually, the cost of labor to create screeds on balconies or loggias ranges from 70% to 100% of the total cost of materials. The small amount of work involved in this relatively high price can be explained by the fact that the typical house’s balcony area rarely exceeds 3 to 5 m2.

Simultaneously, a lot of contracting firms provide customers with full turnkey balcony finishing, which includes wall covering installation, connecting glazing sections to surrounding structures, ceiling finishing, and installing a whole floor pie.

For a standard balcony in a typical residential building, this type of work typically costs between 25 and 40 thousand rubles, including the rental of professional tools and materials and consumables.

Making a concrete floor gives you a strong starting point for turning your balcony into a beautiful and useful area. Concrete is stable and long-lasting, making it perfect for withstanding harsh weather. Proper preparation is the first step in any concrete finishing project, whether you want to add tiles, paint, or linoleum or leave it bare.

Make sure that the concrete surface is level, clean, and dry before installing any flooring material. This preliminary step is essential to the functionality and durability of your balcony floor. The type of finish you choose—tiles for a decorative touch, or linoleum for a soft, resilient feel—determines the adhesive and application methods needed for each material.

A versatile choice, linoleum comes in a variety of colors and patterns to complement the design of your balcony. It’s a sensible option for outdoor areas due to its resistance to moisture and ease of maintenance. To create a seamless, smooth finish, precise measuring, cutting, and adhesive application are necessary when applying linoleum.

If you like the classic look of tiles, ceramic or porcelain options offer many design options along with longevity. To guarantee uniform spacing and strong adherence, tiles must be installed precisely. After applying the tiles, grouting fills in the spaces and improves the waterproofness of the floor.

Whether you choose to paint, install tiles, or go with linoleum, the makeover of your balcony floor improves its look and usefulness. Every material has its own advantages, such as the comfort of linoleum or the durability and aesthetic versatility of tiles. You can enjoy a balcony floor that not only withstands the elements but also improves your outdoor living space for years to come by using the right installation techniques and maintenance schedule.

Video on the topic

Self-leveling floor. My Instagram https://instagram.com/plitochnik_filipp?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=