Description of the advantages of metal log siding

Homeowners who want to combine the longevity and low maintenance of contemporary materials with the rustic charm of traditional wood are increasingly choosing metal log siding. With this cutting-edge siding option, you can have the best of both worlds—the appearance of real wood logs without any of the downsides.

The remarkable durability of metal log siding is a primary factor in consumer choice. Metal siding resists weather damage, pests, and rot better than wood siding. Because it won’t split, warp, or break over time, it’s a durable addition to any house. Furthermore, metal log siding resists fire, giving your home an additional degree of security.

The minimal upkeep needed to maintain the best-looking metal log siding is another noteworthy benefit. Metal log siding just needs an occasional wash to get rid of dirt and debris, but wood siding needs regular painting, staining, and sealing to avoid deterioration. As a result, you’ll spend less time and money maintaining your home’s exterior and can enjoy it hassle-free.

Aesthetically speaking, metal log siding is made to resemble real wood logs, right down to the realistic textures and grain patterns. This lets homeowners have the classic, rustic aesthetic they want without sacrificing durability or modern functionality. Metal log siding is available in a range of colors and finishes to match any architectural style and taste.

Metal log siding is a great option for homeowners who want to protect their investment while also improving the curb appeal of their home. It’s a wise and fashionable addition to any house, offering the warmth and beauty of wood along with superior strength and low maintenance needs.

Advantage Description
Durability Metal log siding is long-lasting and can withstand harsh weather conditions.
Low Maintenance It requires minimal upkeep, saving time and effort in the long run.
Fire Resistance Metal siding is non-combustible, providing added safety to your home.
Pest Resistance Unlike wood, metal siding is not susceptible to termite damage.
Variety of Styles It comes in various colors and textures, allowing for customization to match your home"s design.

Metal siding for logs

A finishing material made of sheet metal stamped in the shape of long, narrow panels with a profile resembling a log house is called metal log siding.

The log building imitation looks pretty realistic once it’s put together. Using photo offset printing, a wood texture pattern—cracks, knots, annual rings, etc.—is applied to the completed profile. As a result, even at close range, it becomes challenging to differentiate the set’s surface from a naturally formed log home composed of rounded logs.

The color of the panels is up to you. The manufacturers offer a range of colors that are nearly identical to the hue of natural logs, from light brown to dark brown.

Such material is easy to assemble and doesn’t require much time. In addition, professionals and even those with little training can easily use it.

When a house is finished with metal log siding, it appears entirely natural, but it lacks the common flaws found in wood.

Under a log, metal siding – picture

Main advantages over other types of siding

Metal log siding benefits:

  • Simple and quick installation.
  • The profile is stamped from galvanized steel, which is highly resistant to corrosion.
  • There is a protective polymer coating that enhances the material’s resistance to destructive processes.
  • High resistance to temperature fluctuations; in severe frosts, the properties of the metal practically do not change, unlike PVC panels.
  • Guaranteed service life is higher than that of PVC panels.
  • Under mechanical stress, the metal is dented or bent, while PVC simply breaks.
  • Non-flammable material.

Technically speaking, metal siding beneath a log possesses every feature that is present in other kinds of comparable metal coverings. The majority of their differences are on the aesthetic spectrum, where there are many benefits.

The surface, which resembles a log frame, has a classic, collected appearance, making the entire house appear to be one unit.

The types of metal siding are as follows:

Metal log siding on the house

Specifications

  • Panel width – 260-390 mm.
  • Useful width (without lock) — 226-360 mm.
  • Panel length – 0.8-8 m.
  • Profile height – 3-4 cm.
  • The presence of anti-hurricane locks that prevent water from penetrating into the joints of the panels.
  • Possibility of installation in a convenient direction – from bottom to top or vice versa.

Panels stamped into one or two logs are available from manufacturers, which speeds up coating installation.

Metal log siding gives homeowners the attractive appearance of real logs without the disadvantages of traditional wood siding, making it a long-lasting and low-maintenance alternative. This material is long-lasting and suitable for any climate because it is resistant to rot, pests, and extreme weather. In the long run, metal log siding saves time and money because it is simple to install and requires little maintenance. It’s a flexible option for improving the look and feel of any house because of its energy efficiency and range of colors and finishes.

Among the producers of metal siding beneath a log, the following businesses are particularly noteworthy:

  • Alta-siding.
  • Woodstock.
  • Grand Line.
  • Metal-profile.
  • Nord House and many others.

It should be remembered that the market is always changing due to the entry of new manufacturers with their innovations and advancements. It is imperative that you consider the technical specs and appearance of a material before looking at the manufacturer.

Complete set

Under a log, metal siding is manufactured with all the extra and auxiliary parts needed for installation and for designing the joints, transitions, openings, and abutments.

For sale are:

  • Internal and external corners.
  • H-profile for longitudinal joining.
  • Starter and finishing profiles.
  • Window strips.
  • Platforms.
  • Soffits.
  • Moldings (under the roof).
  • J-platforms.

The protective coating and color of all the auxiliary components match those of the main panels, giving the impression that they were constructed from the same kind of wood.

Preparation of lathing and insulation of walls

Prior to siding installation, two tasks must be completed: sheathing must be installed and the outer wall must be insulated. Sheathing supports the siding and the insulation at the same time.

Any material meant for this use can be used as insulation; what matters is that the fundamental guideline—that materials’ vapor permeability should increase from the outside in an orderly fashion—is followed.

This implies that vapor must be able to pass through the insulation more easily than through the wall material.

Additionally, you will need a layer of waterproof membrane that lets steam escape from the inside but keeps it from passing through from the outside in order to guard against atmospheric moisture from the outside and stop the insulation from swelling.

Sheathing strips must have a thickness equal to or greater than insulation. If slab mineral wool is used, typically 50 by 50 mm bars are used, with a thickness of 50 mm.

On top of the main lathing, a counter-lattice is constructed to support the siding panel and act as a ventilation gap to remove condensate. It measures 30 to 40 mm thick.

For the purpose of installing siding panels, the counter-lattice strips typically have a pitch of roughly 60 centimeters. Verify that the pitch size is compatible with the current material before beginning installation.

The existence of the counter-lattice plane must be closely observed. This is typically completed during the main strip and insulation installation process. A layer of leveling plaster is then applied to any wall imperfections or bends.

To level the plane, you can use wood, plywood, or other materials if needed, but you should use tensioned cords to adjust the position of the counter-lattice slats.

Although wooden planks can be used for the sheathing, metal guides work better for drywall.

Setting the starting bar

Choose the lowest point on the siding to mark its termination first. Measure 40 mm from the top and draw a horizontal line (verify with a level). The top edge of the starting bar is aligned with this line, and it is attached along it.

The self-tapping screws are inserted precisely into the holes’ centers. They should have a tiny gap to account for the metal’s temperature fluctuations rather than being tightened. Although metal siding has an expansion coefficient ten times lower than vinyl, it is not advised to tightly fasten the elements.

After the first, the second starting strip is put six millimeters apart to account for temperature expansion; if they are not, they may overlap and cause the cladding surface to swell.

Establishing the beginning bar

Arrangement of obtuse and acute angles

The structure of additional metal siding components is flexible. If installing an obtuse corner is required, the corner profile must be attached to the corner and pressed all the way up to the sheathing. It is fixed at the installation site in this position.

The corner profile must be fixed in place and its sides compressed to the appropriate state in order to form an acute angle. To avoid harming the protective polymer coating, proceed with caution. Such operations usually go without any damage or bruises because of the material’s inherent delicacy.

Positioning of acute and obtuse angles

Installation of vertical strips – corners and H-shaped connector

After installing the starting strip, intricate corner strips and H-connections are installed. A plumb line controls their position. Given the intricacy of the profile and the significant function of the element, the screw fastening pitch is 20–30 cm. This ensures dependable fastening that prevents distortions and other deformations.

Installing simple angles is frequently advised by experts, particularly if the installation is done by inexperienced personnel. They lack any extra profile information and are just a typical corner.

These components are much simpler to attach because they just cover the corner joint and are positioned on top of the panels that have already been installed. Self-tapping screws, either screwed into pre-drilled holes or onto blind rivets, are used for this installation.

In the second example, the connection appears to be a little more sturdy, but it will be much harder to disassemble should the need arise because you will need to drill out the rivets.

Installing the H-shaped connector and the vertical strips at the corners

Installation of panels

Panels are normally mounted horizontally, from bottom to top. While vertical installation is also an option, this arrangement works best for wooden buildings.

The bottom panel is fastened with self-tapping screws in the sheathing after being inserted into the corner and H-profiles and snapped into the starting profile’s lock. The same guidelines apply to fastening: if needed, a tiny space is left to allow parts to move freely.

Screws with a head diameter of 1 cm and a length of 2.5 cm are the ideal dimensions. There needs to be a corrosion-resistant protective coating on the self-tapping material.

The panels that follow are all connected in a comparable manner. Every three panels, it is advised to check the horizontal level and adjust the position if any deviations are found.

How to go around windows and doorways with siding

Door and window openings are typically framed in the same way, but windows also have sills to collect and release rainwater. The placement of the window or door in relation to the wall’s plane typically determines the sequence in which the tasks should be completed.

Near-window strips are used when the design of a deep-set window or door block is necessary; in other situations, platbands are used.

Installing the sheathing is the first task. Galvanized metal profile is the ideal material for it. While wood can be used, experts do not advise it because of the potential for the material to rot, dry out, or swell.

A J-bar is used for windows whose installation depth is less than 20 cm. Installing it involves installing a finishing strip around the window frame’s perimeter, into which the J-bar is inserted.

Siding strips that have been cut to length are typically installed into a complex outer corner if the window installation depth is greater than 20 cm. A universal strip fastened to the window frame limits the siding on the window side.

The standard overlap is carried out with an overlap of at least 25 mm if the planks’ length is inadequate.

Platbands are used to close gaps found in the wall’s plane. They are available in various sizes; the best kind is chosen for installation. Before installing the panels, the platbands are installed.

When doing such work, cutting corner joints at a 45-degree angle is the main challenge. This fit’s accuracy guarantees that the window will look nice and keeps rainwater out of the crevices.

Different types of miter boxes are typically employed, but their accuracy varies greatly and sometimes falls short of specifications. Occasionally, a precise 45-degree angle template is created and utilized to indicate the cutting line on the profile.

There are no firm recommendations in this case; the best choice is the one that yields the best outcome.

How to install siding around windows and doors

Installation of finishing strips

Panels with perforated edges are covered by the finishing strip. The trim appears sloppy and unfinished without it. Furthermore, the finishing strip’s upper roller keeps rainwater from penetrating beneath the skin.

Installed right before the final panel, nearly concurrently with its installation. After being cut to width, the siding strip is tucked under the finishing profile’s side and secured there.

Beneath a log, metal siding is a dependable, long-lasting, and eye-catching external home covering. Even though it is more expensive than its vinyl or acrylic equivalent, the cladding’s durability, solidity, and ease of DIY installation have made it popular and preferred.

Among many comparable materials, metal siding for logs is an unquestionable leader due to its dependability and a more successful combination of technical features.

Finishing strip installation

Metal log siding is a great option for homeowners who want to improve the appearance of their home because it provides an appealing combination of strength and visual appeal. This kind of siding has a rustic charm without requiring the high maintenance that real wood does. It resembles the appearance of natural wood logs.

The longevity of metal log siding is one of its most notable advantages. Metal is not easily damaged by weather, insects, or rot like wood is. This implies that metal log siding requires very little maintenance after installation, saving you time and money on repairs and replacements. It can last for decades.

Furthermore, metal log siding resists fire, adding an extra degree of security to your house. This can be especially helpful in regions that are vulnerable to wildfires or severe weather. Because of its strength, your house will always be safe and have a fashionable appearance.

When it comes to handling, metal log siding is less complicated to install than traditional wood logs because of its lightweight design. As a result, you might be able to enjoy your home’s new look sooner and pay less for the installation.

Finally, metal log siding is a sustainable choice. At the end of its useful life, siding itself can be recycled, and many manufacturers use recycled materials in their production. For homeowners who care about the environment, this makes it a sustainable option.

In conclusion, metal log siding blends the best qualities of both materials: the robustness of metal with the aesthetic appeal of wood. It’s a wise purchase for anyone looking for a long-lasting, aesthetically pleasing way to improve the exterior of their house.

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Timur Kiselev

Professional builder with 15 years of experience. I know everything about the construction of houses, cottages, bathhouses and other buildings. I will be happy to share my knowledge and experience with you.

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