DIY installation of a door frame for an interior door

Although installing a door frame for an interior door may seem difficult, it can be a rewarding do-it-yourself project if you have the right equipment and a little perseverance. Whether you’re replacing an old door or remodeling your house, doing it yourself can save you money and make you feel proud of the work you’ve done.

Assemble all required materials before starting. A door frame kit, shims, a level, a tape measure, a hammer, nails, and a saw are required. Make sure the door frame you select will fit the size of the opening in your door. Precise measurements are essential to guarantee a tight fit and seamless door operation.

Prepare the door opening first. Make sure the opening is clean and clear of debris, and remove any outdated trim. Take measurements of the opening’s height and width, then compare them to the door frame’s measurements. Make any necessary adjustments to the opening’s size so that it fits the frame. This is a crucial step to ensure a good fit and prevent problems in the future.

Next, put the door frame together in accordance with the manufacturer’s guidelines. This usually entails using screws or nails to join the side jambs and head jamb. After the frame is put together, place it inside the door opening, being careful to make sure it is plumb and level. Shims can be used to adjust the frame as necessary, and even gaps around the edges can be checked.

Use screws or nails to fasten the frame to the wall after it is positioned and aligned correctly. Before completing the installation, make sure everything is level and plumbed in twice. When everything is ready, trim any extra shims and add the door stop and frame trim, among other finishing touches.

Now that the door frame is firmly fixed, you can hang your interior door and take pleasure in your hard work. This do-it-yourself project not only improves your home’s functionality but also gives your living area a unique touch. Have fun constructing!

Preparatory work

There are various steps involved in the prep work needed to replace interior door frames:

  1. the doorway is measured;
  2. the door block is selected;
  3. materials and tools are purchased;
  4. the old box is dismantled;
  5. a new door frame is being assembled.

Taking measurements

A piece of clean paper, a pencil (pen), and a tape measure should be available for taking measurements. Quantified:

  • opening height – the distance between the floor and the ceiling (position 1 in the figure);
  • width (2) – the distance between the side elements of the opening;
  • wall thickness (3);

The direction in which the doors open is also indicated. Along the slopes on both sides, the height is measured. We take the smallest value. Additionally, the outcome is rounded to the closest centimeter. The width is measured in multiple locations (refer to the diagram); the width of the opening is constant throughout the height only in panel houses. Similar to height, the width of the opening’s narrowest portion is used as a starting point (shown by a green line in the figure).

Box selection

The primary indicator of door sizes is the direct correlation between the width of the doorway and the leaf width, which should be kept in mind when placing an order for a door block. For instance, it is theoretically impossible to fit a door with a 90-cm leaf into an opening that is 93 cm wide. Doors with a leaf of 70 cm will have an opening that is too large. A canvas measuring 80 centimeters is the best choice.

Let’s calculate how the door leaf depends on the doorway’s size.

Doorway width, mm Door leaf width, mm
670 – 700 600
770 – 800 700
870 – 900 800
970 – 1000 900

The provided figures make it evident that pushing the door frame into the doorway will be challenging at lower opening width values (67, 77, etc.). There are only 10 mm remaining (60 cm leaf + 6 cm, 3 cm each, racks).

The ideal distance to work is three centimeters on either side from the wall to the box.

Just so you know, the door leaf and frame don’t have to be constructed of the same material. It is best to purchase natural wood for the box’s construction and eco-veneered MDF canvas.

Required materials and tools

What you’ll need to replace an interior door’s frame is:

  • door frame made of wood, MDF (both options are sold assembled or as a set of elements) or profiled metal (can only be purchased assembled);
  • platbands (wooden, MDF, plastic);

Be aware that the door frame may be telescopic, meaning it has a groove where platbands can be attached. In this instance, telescopic platbands with ridges are required.

  • wood screws when installing the box on a plasterboard partition;
  • self-tapping dowel for a brick or concrete wall;
  • anchor bolts for a metal box;
  • polyurethane foam for attaching the box to the walls;
  • special nails for fastening platbands – colored, with a small head;
  • vertical and horizontal bars for spacers;
  • spacer wedges;
  • an electric wood cross-cutting machine with a round rotating mechanism for cutting at angles of 45 o and 90 o (can be replaced by a hand saw for wood with a fine tooth and a special device for cutting at an angle – a miter box);

  • an electric drill (screwdriver) with a set of wood drills (for a plasterboard partition) or with a Pobedit tip for a brick or concrete wall;
  • chisel for forming a recess for hinges;
  • Phillips screwdriver or screwdriver with a set of bits;
  • roulette;
  • axe;
  • level;
  • plumb line;
  • construction pencil;
  • hammer;
  • construction knife;
  • crowbar (crowbar);
  • grinder for dismantling a metal door frame or a hacksaw for metal.

Any kind of door frame can be installed with the universal set of tools listed below.

Removing the old door frame

Vertical frame posts, an upper cross beam (crossbar), a threshold (sometimes), and a door leaf make up any interior door. Every time you disassemble the frame, you start by taking the door leaf off of its hinges. This is accomplished by putting a crowbar underneath the door, which is open to 90 degrees.

It is supported by a solid object to provide leverage. Lifting the door leaf off of its hinges is necessary. To prevent the door from falling, it is best to complete the task collaboratively. The hinges are lubricated with anti-corrosion lubricant if the blade does not lift.

Whether or not the box is kept will determine what happens next.

Fast, destructive way

When disassembling a door structure that won’t be used again, everything is done quickly:

  • the platbands are removed with an ax – the tip of the ax is driven with a hammer between the box and the platband until a gap appears. After this, the ax is moved closer to the fastener and rotated until the platband moves away from the box completely. Instead of an ax, you can use a nail puller;
  • each vertical post is cut in the middle, after which it is turned out of the doorway with a crowbar;
  • the threshold is also cut and removed with a crowbar;
  • the fasteners are cut flush with the wall using a grinder or a hacksaw.

Gentle way

The simplest way to disassemble the door frame with your hands while maintaining its integrity. Gradually, it appears like this:

  • platbands are removed;
  • the hinges and the latch bar are unscrewed – there is a hidden fastener underneath them;
  • use a screwdriver at low speed to unscrew the screws (nails are removed with a nail puller). If they do not unscrew, then cut them off with a grinder or a hacksaw;
  • The polyurethane foam is cut out with a construction knife;
  • the door frame is carefully removed from the opening and disassembled.

When removing the doors, keep in mind that a wall broken during frame disassembly will result in issues that are far worse than those that can be resolved with a few minutes of careful labor.

Box assembly instructions

Interior door producers offer their products in two configurations: assembled and as a collection of parts. Purchasing a prefabricated door block is a popular choice. Still, putting together a door frame by yourself is not that hard.

Three technologies can be used to put the box together:

  1. into the tenon – the manufacturer pre-cut the tenons and groove. Only carpenters with experience can independently prepare the racks and crossbars for assembly into a tenon;
  2. at an angle of 90 o – the simplest option;
  3. at an angle of 45 o – a more complex method. But the difficulties are compensated by the beautiful view of the articulation of the rack with the crossbar.

Tenon assembly

It is uncommon for door manufacturers to assemble the frame on a tenon because doing so would add to the cost of their products. However, you can still find it for sale. A long wood screw is used to secure the entire structure in each corner, tightening and strengthening the box. This is how an easy box like this is put together: on the floor, the crossbar is placed with a tenon into a groove in the racks. Drilling a smaller diameter hole for the hardware is preferable.

At an angle of 90 o

Installing the load-bearing portion of the door block is made simplest and fastest by assembling the frame at a straight angle. There are just three procedures:

  • the racks and crossbar are cut at an angle of 90 o to the required size;

A crucial consideration should be made when measuring the racks and crossbar: the crossbar will be fastened to the racks or in between the racks, allowing for the thickness of the box components.

  • Using a chisel and saw, a part of the vestibule is selected (see. photo);

  • the box is assembled on the floor into one piece. The posts and crossbar are fastened together with self-tapping screws – 2 (in wide ones 3) at each end (cm. photo).

At an angle of 45 o

As long as the ends are properly cut, the 45-degree connection between the racks and the cross member appears stunning. Workplace technology is straightforward:

  • the elements of the box are laid out on the floor;
  • the racks and crossbar are measured – no correction is made here for the thickness of the elements, as when assembling at right angles;
  • the ends at the top of the box are cut at an angle of 45 o . For work, be sure to use a miter box or a circular saw with a rotating mechanism;
  • the structure is assembled into one whole;
  • the ends are attached with self-tapping screws – two for each.

Instructions for installation in the opening

Self-installing an interior door frame doesn’t usually lead to major issues. Even for a construction novice, there are comprehensive instructions available. The following is the step-by-step installation procedure.

Step 1: Loops are placed and penciled in at a 20-cm distance above and below the supporting rack. After choosing a groove for them, use a chisel and hammer. For extra frame fastening, the same procedure is occasionally performed on the lining beneath the door handle’s tongue on the opposing pillar.

Step 2: The door frame is inserted into the opening and secured with multiple wedges on the sides. Here, keeping the vertical posts from coming into contact with the wall is crucial. Otherwise, placing the box both vertically and horizontally will be challenging, if not impossible. You must go around the portion of the doorway that protrudes the most if the wall is uneven.

Be aware that the spray is limited to the bathroom and toilet doors. A spacer is inserted beneath the box without a page to prevent the racks from going inside the door when damping the space between the wall and the racks. cleaned up before the door leaf was hung.

Step 3: At this point, it’s crucial to position the box correctly so that the vertical racks throughout the circle have a perpendicular angle (90 O) to the floor. Here, a plumb line, levels (both instruments can effectively replace the laser level), and wedges will be helpful.

With clogged wedges, you have to maintain constant control over the following two:

  • so that the box does not change the position in space, does not move;
  • So that the vertical racks do not bend inside the high load.

Spacers are used to solve the issue if the box is distorted. In the event that this procedure is ineffective, the load is removed from the rack beam by gradually knocking out the wedges in the opposite direction.

Step 4: Drill holes 4 mm in diameter through the frame into the designated hinge grooves. They are screwed into the wall beam by means of self-tapping screws that are hidden beneath the wood. You don’t have to fully screw them in just yet.

If the wall is made of concrete or brick, a dowel hole must be drilled through the door frame and followed by the self-tapping screw.

Be aware that many apartment owners replace the frame on foam or aerated concrete interior walls by screwing in self-tapping screws. Experience has shown that dowel-self-tapping screws are the best choice in this situation as well.

Step 5: To ensure that the structure stands level, wooden blocks or wedges are inserted close to the screwed-in hardware. This is necessary to provide stability to the entire structure and to keep the stand from bending in the opposite direction when the screws are fully inserted. The box’s location in space is then verified. If there is a shift, it is fixed. The screws are then tightened until they stop.

The box’s location is verified once more. Here, it’s best to err on the side of caution rather than discover a distortion later on—you’ll have to start over from scratch.

Step 6: Foam is used to anchor the door frame to the wall. The hinge side joint is first foamed. Everything is done from top to bottom. Applying foam equally is done. To stop the stand from deforming, the joint on the latch side is foamed with a tiny snake.

Step 7: The door leaf must be fastened to the frame at the very end. Hanging requires two people: one to hold the sash while the other screws the hinges to the frame. Here are a few small tips that will help with the task:

  • the hinges are first screwed onto the box;
  • It’s better to put a wedge under the door so as not to keep it hanging;
  • The top loop is attached first;
  • when attaching the lower hinge, first screw in the upper, then the lower screws. The rest of the fasteners are tightened after the operation of the door leaf is checked;
  • along the entire perimeter the distance between the frame and the sash should be 3 mm. If you need to achieve tightness, then glue the seal.

Step 8: The door is shut, and then its location is verified once more. If all goes according to plan, the box is fastened to the wall in the latch region. Not all the way down, the self-tapping screw is inserted under the bar. The fastener is then screwed in until it stops after a wedge is driven in around it.

At last, the structure is foaming. If the wall is wide, an extension is installed, the excess foam is cut off with a construction knife, and platbands are attached after it has dried.

We examined the process of installing a wood door frame. The same method is used to attach an MDF door.

When installing a metal box composed of metal profiles, there are a few variations:

  • the box is installed in the opening and fixed with wedges;
  • its geometry is checked;
  • through the box in the wall from the side of the hinges, two holes about 15 cm long are drilled for anchor bolts. The drill is taken of the same diameter as the anchor;
  • using a hammer with a metal insert, the anchor bolts are driven into the hole. Hit the insert with a hammer until a characteristic click is heard, indicating that the anchor is seated on the outer wall of the box;
  • tighten the bolt with a spanner wrench. At the same time, the verticality of the box is constantly checked. If necessary, the anchor is released;
  • a similar procedure for installing an anchor, but only one, is carried out from the handle side;
  • door leaf is installed.

You can read more about installing a metal entrance door in the article "How to install a metal entrance door yourself?" The procedure is quite similar to that.

The box can also be mounted on metal hangers, which are utilized for special installation systems—the installation concept of which is shown in the picture—and lathing beneath plasterboard.

The steps involved in hanging the frame from hangers are:

  • Three hangers are screwed to the outside of the frame to the risers using self-tapping screws (two per hanger);

  • The frame is installed in the opening and secured with wedges;
  • Using a laser level (plumb line and level) and wooden spacers, the vertical and horizontal of the frame are displayed;
  • The ends of the plumb lines are attached to the wall;
  • The gap between the wall and the frame is approximately half-filled with foam. After the mounting foam has dried, the joint between the door block and the wall is completely filled with foam.

Because of the numerous drawbacks of this kind of fastening, craftsmen who respect their reputation avoid using it in their work.

Step Description
1 Measure the door opening to ensure the frame will fit.
2 Cut the door frame pieces to size based on your measurements.
3 Assemble the frame on a flat surface using screws or nails.
4 Place the assembled frame into the door opening.
5 Use a level to make sure the frame is straight and plumb.
6 Secure the frame in place with screws or nails.
7 Check that the frame is secure and make any necessary adjustments.
8 Install the door into the frame and test its movement.
9 Add finishing touches, like trim or paint, as needed.

A rewarding and reasonably priced do-it-yourself project is installing a door frame for an interior door. You can get a professional-looking outcome by carefully following the instructions and paying attention to the details. To ensure there are no interruptions during the installation process, begin by gathering all required tools and supplies.

A successful installation requires preparation. To guarantee a good fit, measure the door opening and the frame precisely. Making accurate cuts and assembly of the frame components will avert problems in the future. At every stage, don’t forget to check for plumb and level, as even minor deviations can have an impact on the door’s appearance and functionality.

Properly fastening the door frame is essential. As you attach the frame to the wall, use shims to correct and stabilize it. This will support the stability and alignment of the frame. After the frame is securely in position, install the door and make any required modifications to guarantee a smooth swing and proper closure.

Lastly, to give the installation a polished appearance, add trim and caulk or foam to any gaps. It will look better if you paint or stain the frame to match your interior design. You can successfully install a door frame and experience the satisfaction of finishing a home improvement project on your own with a little perseverance and attention to detail.

Although installing a door frame for an interior door may seem difficult, almost anyone can do it themselves with the right tools and a step-by-step guide. This post will guide you through each step of the procedure, from leveling and measuring the frame to securing it in place. You can save labor costs and experience the satisfaction of finishing a home improvement project on your own by following these instructions.

Video on the topic

How to assemble a door frame with your own hands

Installing a door frame in an opening when installing interior doors.

How to assemble a door frame | Installing doors yourself

INSTALLING A DOOR WITH YOUR HANDS CORRECTLY STEP BY STEP IN DETAIL full proper installation interior doors

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Timur Kiselev

Professional builder with 15 years of experience. I know everything about the construction of houses, cottages, bathhouses and other buildings. I will be happy to share my knowledge and experience with you.

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