Do-it-yourself bath drain

Making a bath drain that works and is dependable is a crucial ability for any do-it-yourselfer. Knowing how to set up a bath drain correctly can save you time and money when remodeling your bathroom or installing a new tub. It also gives you the satisfaction of knowing that you completed a big task by yourself.

It’s critical to gather all required tools and materials before you start. An organized workstation can facilitate a more efficient and seamless process. You’ll need some basic tools, like a wrench, plumber’s putty, and a drain assembly kit. Make sure you have everything ready before you begin in order to prevent distractions once you’re underway.

The process begins with the removal of any existing drain components. When renovating, take care to remove the old setup so as not to cause harm to the surrounding area. The type of drain and pipe that are being used should be carefully considered, as this will direct the installation of the new parts. Wearing gloves and protective eyewear is important to ensure your safety and prevent mishaps.

You’ll then need to install the replacement drain assembly. It can be a little challenging to fit this part perfectly, but with practice and accuracy, you can. To create a watertight seal, surround the drain flange with plumber’s putty. With a wrench, firmly tighten the drain after placing it in the tub. Maintaining a tight seal is essential to avoiding leaks, which over time can do a great deal of harm.

Attach the plumbing underneath the drain once it has been installed. In order to stop sewer gases from entering your home, you must attach the P-trap and make sure all connections are tight and leak-free. Testing the drain by pouring water through it and looking for leaks is a smart idea. Make the necessary changes to ensure that everything is operating as it should.

Finishing a DIY bathroom drain project can be very satisfying. It not only makes your bathroom more functional, but it also gives you more confidence and skills to take on home renovation projects. You can effectively install a bathtub drain that will last you for many years if you take the necessary preparations and pay close attention to detail.

Requirements for drainage in the bathhouse

The bathhouse is a unique building with harsh operating circumstances. Therefore, the drainage system is subject to stringent regulations:

  • must cope with any flows, including.h. and when using a hanging tub of cold water;
  • a valve is required to prevent unpleasant odors. It should be taken into account that the water seal may freeze after taking bath procedures in the winter;
  • all sections of the sewer system, except for the drain well, should not contain water after washing is completed. Otherwise there is a chance that it will freeze. There is probably no need to explain what will happen in this case;
  • pipes in the ground must be laid below the freezing point of the soil – plastic cracks in the cold, and laying cast iron pipes will cost a lot of money;
  • installation of the entire structure must be made of durable materials and parts – replacement will take a lot of effort and time, and even with large financial expenses;
  • there should be easy access to the drain neck or drain.

Factors influencing the choice of drainage system

Before starting work on draining water from the bathhouse, you need to draw up a project. Not necessarily on paper according to all GOST rules. Possibly in my head. The main thing is to clearly understand what needs to be done. But any designer will not take on the job if he is not presented with a “Technical Specification” (TOR), which stipulates the main points of the future structure. In our case, we also need technical specifications, which indicate how to collect water from the floor, where and how to drain it, and how to dispose of it. To do this, you will have to make a list of questions and answers to them.

  1. Bath dimensions. With a total area of ​​the steam room and washing room (shower) up to 12 m2, it is possible, regardless of whether the floors are solid or pouring, the bathhouse is wooden, stone or frame, to discharge water into the ground underground. But don’t rush to stop there right away. Other nuances need to be taken into account.
  2. Soil type. The presence of a clay lens under the fertile soil layer makes you forget about draining inside the bathhouse. You will have to drain the water into a public sewer (septic tank) or cesspool.
  3. Clay layer thickness. If the layer of clay soil does not exceed 1 m in thickness, you can also drain water into a pit under the floor. But for this you will have to go through the clay and go 30-50 cm deep into the sand.
  4. Ground water level. The high level of groundwater dictates only one option for drainage – drainage of water into a reservoir with subsequent pumping by a sewage disposal machine.
  5. Soil freezing depth. When draining water using pipes, a trench under the sewer must be dug to a depth below the freezing point (there must be at least 5 cm between the outer wall of the pipe in its upper part and the freezing point). As an option, you can insulate pipes with basalt slabs. In Siberia and the Far North they do things a little differently: using a special heating electric cable, they insulate the sewer pipe along its entire length. Turns on automatically when the temperature on the pipe body drops to a critical level.
  6. Availability of a septic tank or sewerage system on site. A sewer or septic tank located next to the bathhouse allows you to connect to the general human waste disposal system. But this option is not always optimal. Most often, it is easier, cheaper and more reliable to make a separate water recycling unit.
  7. Availability of a toilet in the bathhouse. If there is a bathroom in the recreation area, you will have to build a full sewer system or connect to existing networks.

Drain system design

When planning a bathhouse’s sewage system, four structural elements must be considered:

  • method of draining water from the floor;
  • the way it is collected underground;
  • delivery system to the filtration site;
  • type of filtration wells.

In this instance, all calculations and drawings—if any—should be finished before beginning work on installing a strip foundation (this requirement does not apply to pile and columnar foundations). This way, you will avoid having to use a hammer drill to pound concrete or reinforced concrete blocks after a few weeks.

Draining water from the floor

Use a slope (for a continuous covering) or spaces between the boards (for a flowing floor) to let water out of wooden floors. Porcelain tiles and self-leveling flooring are two more types of flooring that use the slope method to drain water into a tray beneath the flooring or drain.

Slope Requirements

For water to escape the monolithic floor, there needs to be a slope. One o’clock is the ideal angle. This is sufficient to cut off any water flow, reducing the chance that someone will trip or even fall out of the blue. Even more inclination is permitted by building regulations: 2 o. However, this is already excessive.

It is not necessary to perform any computations. When an angle of 1 o is created, the height difference is 10 mm per 1 m.

Types of sloped floors

There are multiple floor planes available in the bathhouse: one, two, four, and six.

  • With one plane. This option has started to gain popularity recently. The point is to tilt the entire floor towards the wall at the end of the floorboards, where a gutter (most often made of galvanized or corrugated sheet) is attached to collect water. You can take it through an artificially created channel to any place.
  • With two planes. Here the water is no longer discharged near the wall, but in the middle of the floor into a gutter. The essence of the method is clearly visible in the photo below, where the slope goes from the walls to the middle of the bathhouse, t.e. the flooring itself is divided into two parts, each of which is mounted at its own angle.

  • Four planes. The two previous methods of dumping water from the floor are used when constructing a funnel in the underground, from which the moisture goes through the pipes into the cesspool. This method of getting rid of water has a centuries-old history, t.To. Can also be used for poured floors. With the advent of solid (solid) floor coverings, someone came up with the idea of ​​​​using a drain to collect and drain water. This made it possible to abandon the need for a concrete screed when installing wooden floors (the need for a drainage funnel disappeared).

The method’s centrally located single drain hole is one of its distinguishing features. The floor is conditionally divided into four sections, each with a slight slope to the ladder so that the water can escape to it. Cuts are the locations of joints. Water collects on them and runs off to the drain hole. Such a design resembles an envelope when completed (see photo).

  • Six planes. More than four planes in practice are quite rare. In fact, this is a complicated envelope. Used only on porcelain floors with a round -shaped lamp. The essence is shown in the photo below.

Water removal system from floor to external sewage

There are two ways to drain it from the floor to the outer sewer network: one is to use a ladder, and the other is to use an underfloor concrete funnel.

Ladder

It was recently proposed to use a dial for water drainage. Therefore, simple mistakes are occasionally made when installing it. How to converse and avoid them.

One component of the sewer system that makes sure water drains from the floor to outside sewage networks is the bathhouse drain. installed in a concrete funnel beneath a solid wooden or pouring floor, or at floor level in a steam and laundry room. consists of a grille, outlet pipe, valve, siphon, and body.

  • drainage of water from the floor into the sewer pipe system;
  • primary wastewater filtration;
  • blocking the flow of unpleasant odors from the cesspool.

There are various types of ladders:

  • vertical — the sewer pipe is supplied to the siphon from below, which increases the rate of drainage, but requires deepening of the entire system;
  • horizontal — the drainage system is attached to the side of the ladder. But here you definitely need a slope of all pipes.

For information, installing a drain in a bathhouse vertically on screw piles is advised because there are less issues with siphon and outlet pipe insulation.

The type of shutter on the ladders varies as well. He is capable of:

  • water (hydraulic seal). The simplest and most reliable. However, it is not applicable in a bathhouse for two reasons: it can dry out if the steam room has not been used for a long time or freeze in winter;
  • membrane – opens under the pressure of the water flow. They are impractical for a bathhouse – constant moistening of the locking element is required. Otherwise, its elasticity is lost and odors from the sewer enter the room;
  • float – the ball floats up when water enters;
  • pendulum – the curtains (petals) go down under water pressure and are closed due to counterweights located outside the pipe.

Criterias of choice

The following features should be taken into consideration when selecting a ladder, of which there is an incredible selection in the retail network:

  • the diameter of the sewer pipe so that it can be connected without intermediate elements (adapters);
  • method of connection to the sewerage system: vertical or horizontal;
  • throughput, so that it does not turn out that the external networks have a diameter of 100 mm, and the drain is 50 mm, or, vice versa, as a result of which the water leaves with a delay (a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm passes 2.3 l / s);
  • appearance – here you can choose to match any floor: wooden, porcelain stoneware;
  • material of manufacture. Metal is more reliable, but more expensive. For a bathhouse, the optimal solution is high-strength plastic or a combination of several materials. For example, a siphon is made of polyethylene, and the grille is metal;
  • shutter type.

Ladder installation

When using a strip foundation, the drain is installed after the outlet pipe is installed and before the screed is poured. In this instance, a number of crucial guidelines need to be followed:

  • the ladder grating should not protrude above the floor surface. Usually it is located on the same level. But it’s better if it’s a little deeper;
  • the floor in a bathhouse with a drain through a drain should have a slope towards the grate so that the water quickly drains away by gravity;
  • the gaps between the floor and the ladder must be well sealed so that moisture does not seep into the underground;
  • when using a vertical drain, it is important to calculate the depth of the sewer drainage network. To do this, you should look at the siphon assembly manual, which indicates the minimum parameters for each unit (only in a dry seal, the working area can be from 3 to 7 cm), and also take into account the need to install a tee to receive water from the washing compartment or steam room (depending on the location connections to the sewer network).

Crucial: in the event that the restroom has a restroom, the waste pipe must be connected to the external sewer system at the intersection of external networks.

The following order is used to assemble the ladder (using a wooden floor as an example):

  • Before laying the boards, the entire drainage system is assembled. Large quantities of water are poured into it. If no leaks are observed, the drain is disassembled;

  • the floor is laid from a floorboard (there must be a tongue and groove). You can see how to do this correctly here;
  • using measuring instruments, the location of the inlet sewer pipe is found, after which a mark is drawn on the floor surface for drilling a hole for the drain. It should have a slight gap;

  • a hole is cut with a jigsaw;

  • a chisel is used to cut out a square for the lattice;
  • a ladder is installed;
  • the gap between the grate and the floor is sealed.

Concrete funnel

Let’s now examine how to use a concrete funnel to drain a bathhouse beneath the floor. It should be noted right away that pouring a screed with a slope using the wet method requires a lot of labor and is challenging; the procedure is explained in detail here. The semi-dry method of laying concrete is simpler to use and gives you the freedom to precisely adjust the surface’s inclination to any desired angle underground. The article "How to make a semi-dry floor screed" provides a detailed explanation of how to accomplish this.

You can increase the value of your house with a simple, affordable project that installs a bath drain yourself. You can ensure that your bath drains effectively, avoiding water damage and maintaining a clean, functional bathroom by following a few easy steps and using simple tools. From selecting the appropriate supplies to adding the finishing touches, this guide will lead you through the process, giving you the confidence to take on this do-it-yourself project.

Drainage system

Water can be transferred from the subterranean bathhouse to the disposal site thanks to the drainage system. consists of trench-based sewer pipes.

Materials and tools

To complete the task, you will require:

  • external sewer pipes with a socket;
  • a plastic corner (adapter) with a right angle for connecting a drain or funnel to a pipe (in this case, an angle with 60 o is most often needed);
  • river sand;
  • shovel and bayonet shovel;
  • level;
  • roulette.

Pipe selection

Strong polymer and cast iron pipes are used for external sewer networks. Cast iron is more dependable and robust. However, bathing is not done in it. There are various causes:

  • high cost of materials and work;
  • difficult to transport due to weight;
  • Self-installation is excluded: you need special tools and experience working with them.

Ordinary plastic pipes come in orange and gray hues depending on the material:

  • polypropylene;
  • PVC;
  • chlorinated PVC;
  • low pressure polyethylene.

Orange-colored materials are ideal for a bath because they are very sturdy. (Intended for external sewage disposal) The following variables influence the selection of colored pipes:

  • thicker with the same internal diameter as gray ones (3.2-3.4 mm versus 2 mm), which allows you to withstand heavy loads, for example, a car driving onto the system;
  • multi -layer, which increases stiffness;
  • It is clearly visible during excavation next to the laid sewage, which minimizes the risk of damage;
  • higher heat resistance due to the larger wall thickness;
  • increased operational resource.

Though somewhat of a drawback, the increased cost—more than 20% more—can be ascribed to the product’s durability.

Important: Because asbestos-cement pipes have an uneven inner surface on which waste clings, the site team does not advise using them. a unique risk whose system length exceeds ten meters.

The external sewer system’s diameter ranges from 50 to 150 mm. Everything is dependent on how much sewage and moisture are diverted. Therefore, 50 mm is sufficient in a tiny bathhouse without a bathroom. In all other cases, a diameter between 100 and 110 mm should be preferred.

Digging a trench

The trench can be dug manually or—for a hefty price—with a mini excavator. The calculation for depth is as follows: add the pipe’s thickness to the freezing point, plus an additional 3–4 cm below and above. Because the freezing point is an average value, the soil freezes several centimeters lower during severe frosts in a snowless winter. Below is for a sand cushion, and on top for reinsurance.

There must be a slope in the trench. Furthermore, a pipe’s diameter increases with its thickness. For each meter of pipe diameter, the reduction should be 30 mm for pipes up to 110 mm, 20 mm for pipes up to 150 mm, 10 mm for pipes over 150 mm, and 8 mm for pipes larger than 150 mm.

There is sand in the trench that was dug. On top of it are sewer pipes. Mineral wool or polystyrene foam insulation is installed if there is no space between the freezing point and the pipe’s top. Soil is added to the trench after a thin layer of sand has been added. It is then leveled and compacted.

Note: In practice, the provided technology for backfilling and laying pipes is frequently broken, with the cushion not being backfilled and the top not being sanded down. There isn’t much of a difference overall. The owners will decide what action to take in this case.

Important: the trench’s soil will settle after a year, necessitating more backfilling.

Doing the installation or replacement of a bath drain yourself can be a time- and money-saving, satisfying do-it-yourself project. With the correct equipment and supplies, you can confidently take on this project and enhance the look and feel of your bathroom.

Start by taking out the old drain with caution, making sure you have the right tools, like pliers or a drain wrench. To get ready for the installation of the new drain, thoroughly clean the area. Select a replacement drain that complements both your plumbing configuration and the model of your bathtub.

Next, install the new drain securely by following the manufacturer’s instructions. To create a watertight seal, apply silicone sealant or plumber’s putty according to the instructions. To prevent breaking the plumbing connections or the bathtub, carefully tighten the drain fittings.

Check for leaks by running water through the drain after installation. Make any necessary adjustments to make sure everything is firmly in place. After you’re happy, remove any leftover putty or sealant and use your newly installed bath drain.

You’ll save money on installation by doing this DIY project, and you’ll also learn a lot about the plumbing system in your house. Always take your time, pay close attention to the directions, and get professional assistance if you run into any problems that are beyond your area of expertise.

Video on the topic

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