Do-it-yourself warm floor on a balcony or loggia

Even on a cold day, picture yourself walking onto your loggia or balcony and feeling the warmth beneath your feet. These areas can be made into comfortable, year-round areas by installing warm floors. This is an upgrade that you can do on your own with a little preparation and work.

A do-it-yourself heated floor project is a great way to create a cozy area for morning coffee or a tiny, heated area for plants. It’s a reasonably priced way to improve your living space without having to do extensive building work.

This tutorial will walk you through the fundamentals of selecting the best heating system, getting the surface ready, and gradually installing the heated floor. You can have a warm, welcoming space and a professional-looking finish with a few basic tools and supplies.

Prepare to discover how to enhance your home’s comfort level. No matter the weather outside, your loggia or balcony can become a favorite place to be.

Step	Description
Planning	Measure the area and decide on the type of heating system.
Materials	Gather tools and materials like insulation, heating cables, and a thermostat.
Preparation	Clean and level the balcony floor.
Insulation	Install insulation to prevent heat loss.
Heating System	Lay the heating cables or mats according to the plan.
Connection	Connect the heating system to the thermostat.
Flooring	Install the final flooring over the heating system.
Testing	Test the system to ensure it works correctly.

It’s not as hard as you might think to turn your loggia or balcony into a comfortable and welcoming area. You can install a warm floor system yourself, which will improve comfort and increase the value of your house. With a few basic tools and materials, this project is ideal for homeowners who want to make the most of their outdoor space all year long. Regardless of your level of experience, this guide will take you step-by-step through the process to guarantee that you get professional-quality results without having to hire pricey contractors.

What is a heated floor

Keeping up with the advancement of technology is challenging. Thus, a portion of the Russian populace comprehends a carpet covering the entire space beneath a heated floor. They are correct in part. In addition to providing a warm, soft tactile layer, the carpet’s thermal insulation layer shields the space from heat loss through the house’s or apartment’s lower levels.

By "warm floor," builders refer to a heating system that is either directly beneath the floor covering or inside the screed. In this instance, heat enters the space through the floor rather than through wall-mounted heating radiators.

There are numerous benefits that the novel heating system offers over the conventional one. The only thing preventing "warm floors" from being used widely is cost. Simultaneously, the notion of price encompasses the expenses related to equipment and heating, which is significantly greater than that of central heating.

Options for heated floors on the balcony

Many systems for heating loggias and balconies are available from manufacturers of "warm floors." Among them are:

• water “warm floor”;
• electric;
• infrared.

Electric "warm floor" in turn could be:

• cable. The heating element in it is a conductive cable (heated due to internal resistance) with one or two cores, or self-regulating;
• in the form of heating mats – the same cable system, where the heating elements are enclosed in a mesh substrate;
• made of amorphous metal strip.

Although it is powered by an electrical network, infrared "warm floors" operate on a different principle. Long-range infrared radiation is emitted by carbon paste that is sealed in a polyester film. It’s an infrared film floor. An alternative infrared floor is a rod one, in which infrared radiation is also emitted by carbon rods.

The pros and cons of each of the aforementioned types determine whether or not they work well with various kinds of balcony flooring. Let’s take a closer look at the problem.

Water heated floor

When it comes to heating a private home or cottage, water "warm floors" are thought to be the best choice. He has numerous benefits.

• efficiency;
• durability;
• versatility;
• environmental friendliness;
• aesthetics.

All the advantages notwithstanding, the water "warm floor" on the balcony is insufficient for heating purposes. There are multiple causes.

First of all, it is challenging to prove legally. At the legislative level, using central heating coolant for a water floor is forbidden. It is still possible in certain circumstances to get official approval for an apartment. There is little chance for a balcony.

Second, because of the critical load on the balcony slab, it is better to decline permission to use a coolant liquid to heat the floor. GOST states that the typical load on a balcony for a brick wall is 200 kg/m2, and for a panel wall, it is 250 kg/m2. 30 percent safety margin. In this instance, the computed load is 325 kg/m2 for a panel house and 260 kg/m2 for a brick home. Remember that these indicators vary while the business is in operation, and that the safety margin reduces by 0.5% to 1.0% per year to a lesser extent.

The screed has a specific gravity of 1800 kg/m 3. When installing a "warm floor" with liquid coolants, the fill must be at least 5 cm thick (you can see how it is determined here). The result of multiplying the screed’s thickness by density is -90 kg/m2. The weight of the flooring, windows, and walls should be added here. Another 60–80 kg/m2 is this. We thus understand that it is exceedingly dangerous for three people to be on such a balcony because it may collapse.

Thirdly, because even metal-plastic pipes can burst due to the expansion of concrete during compression, pipes intended for water "heated floors" are made to operate at a fluid temperature of no more than 50 o C. Because the central heating coolant is between 70 and 90 o C, there is a significant increase in the likelihood of destruction.

The site’s editors came to the conclusion that heating a balcony with a water "warm floor" is a risky idea and chose not to investigate this heating option any further.

Electric heated floor

Among the benefits of electric floor heating systems are the following:

• Possibility of installation under any floor covering: tiles, laminate, linoleum, floorboards;
• versatility – can be used in one-story buildings and high-rise buildings, apartments and offices, living room, bathroom, bedroom, kitchen, children"s room, on balconies and loggias;
• relatively low price of a set of equipment compared to water heating;
• simple installation – you can lay and connect cables yourself;

Diagram for an electric heated floor. Balcony slab (1), insulation (2), mounting tape (3), heating cable (4), temperature sensor (5), and thermostat (6); 7-scrade; 8. Flooring (carpet, linoleum, porcelain stoneware, and tiles).

• the ability to regulate the temperature of the heating elements within 0.1 o C;
• does not require maintenance;
• long service life if operating rules are observed;
• uniform heating of the floor over the entire surface.

Additionally, there are drawbacks:

• the need for a cement-sand screed for cables, the minimum thickness of which is at least 4 cm (load on the slab 72 kg/m 2);
• electromagnetic radiation;
• rapid failure if the switching on and off mode is violated;
• high operating costs (consumes a lot of electricity);
• the need to replace the electrical supply wiring – the standard type of cable will not withstand the load;
• complex repairs in case of cable damage.

In conclusion, it makes sense to give installing cable "warm floors" serious thought in apartments that have electric stoves because there is no need to modify the wiring and there are lower electricity costs.

These are general benefits and drawbacks that might not apply to all electric heated floor types.

Amorphous metal strip

An entirely new kind of electric "warm floor" is created using an amorphous metal strip, which lacks the crystal lattice that is present in all metals.

The instantaneous cooling of the heated metal results in the destruction of the lattice, conferring unique properties that modify the strengths and weaknesses of the "warm floor."

Advantages:

• high efficiency of converting electricity into heat, due to which electricity consumption is 2-3 times less compared to cable heating (experts associate energy savings with a reduction in losses due to electromagnetic radiation);
• easy installation – can be laid directly into a layer of tile adhesive;
• durability – the metal does not corrode, failure of one or more elements does not in any way affect the performance of the system as a whole;
• electromagnetic radiation is practically absent – several times less compared to smartphones;
• uniform heating due to a large heat transfer area.

• at an operating temperature of the tape above 28 o C, unique properties are lost. For skeptics, we note that a temperature of +28 o C on the sensor is enough to keep the balcony at +20 o C;
• the absence of a screed leads to rapid cooling of the balcony – there is no heat accumulator.

In conclusion, the least expensive way to heat a balcony or loggia is to use an inventive warm floor beneath laminate and tiles.

Infrared "warm floor"

The "warm floor" utilizing infrared (IR) has its proponents and opponents. This is because there are a lot of benefits and drawbacks to the heating system.

Strengths are incredibly striking:

• heating can be installed in the areas where the owners stay, which leads to energy savings of 20-30%;
• low cost of repair work;

• IR film is not afraid of frost – can withstand up to -70 o C;
• installation of “warm floors” is possible in any type of building and premises;
• simple assembly and dismantling;
• environmental safety – the radiation spectrum is identical to sunlight;
• no repairs are required if one or more elements fail;
• long service life;
• the balcony is heated evenly;
• there are no invection and convection air flows.

Faults are just as amazing:

• high power consumption;
• there is a risk of electric shock, short circuit if moisture gets on the film, fire. Grounding the film is not a complete guarantee against trouble;
• dependence on electricity supply;
• changing the arrangement of furniture is impossible – their bottom will heat up, which leads to overheating of the floor covering, and through it the film.

In conclusion, electric underfloor heating using amorphous metal tape is superior to infrared heating.

Technology for installing heated floors on the balcony

Every kind of "warm floor" has a unique method of installation.

Electric heated floor

The balcony’s electric heated floors are installed in phases:

• the required power is calculated;
• materials and tools are purchased;
• preparatory work is being carried out;
• a heating system is being installed;
• the screed is poured.

Power calculation

To ascertain the system’s power and cable length, you must perform intricate calculations prior to visiting a hypermarket or construction market for cable heating. It is recommended that those who want to use the calculator click on this link.

We provide the tabulated results of the computations for those who appreciate time.

Table 1 shows the power calculation for a heated floor.

power, kWt	Cable length, m	Resistance, Ohm	Balcony area, m2
			Comfort floor			Maximum heating
			150 W/m2	180 W/m2			200 W/m2
0.16	eleven	305	1.1	0.9			0.8
0.25	17	190	1.7	1.4			1.3
0.44	29	106	2.9	2.4			2.2
0.67	45	65	4.5	3.7			3.4
0.82	55	55	5.5	4.6			4.1
1.05	71	42	7	5.8			5.3
1.25	83	35	8.3	6.9			6.3
1.4	95	31	9.3	7.8			7
1.75	117	23	eleven.7	9.7			8.8
2.08	140	19	13.9	eleven.6			10.4

Choosing the cable laying step completes the power calculation. Here’s the formula that’s used:

K = S*100/L, where:

• k—laying step, cm;
• S—balcony area, m2;
• L—cable length, m.

Materials and tools

If you have the following, you can install laminate and tiles over an electric heated floor on a loggia:

• heating cable;
• temperature sensor with wires;
• thermostat;
• corrugated tube for temperature sensor with a diameter of 20 mm;
• foil insulation 50 mm thick (Penofol, cork, expanded polystyrene);
• metallized tape;
• plastic reinforcing mesh;
• mounting tape;
• dowel for fastening the tape;
• damper tape;
• special clamps for fastening the cable;
• electrical tester;
• wall chaser or grinder;
• hammer drill or electric drill with a crown;
• chisels;
• hammer;
• set of screwdrivers;
• knife with replaceable blades;
• colored electrical tape or felt-tip pen for marking cables.

Preparatory work

Prior to installing the heating cable, a number of tasks must be completed in preparation:

• punch a 20×20 mm groove in the wall and 15 cm high from the floor surface;

• Use a crown to cut a hole in the wall for the thermostat. If it is rectangular, knock out the corners with a hammer and chisel;

• sweep and then vacuum the base of the floor;
• lay foil insulation with the reflective side up;
• seal the joints with metallized tape;

• lay the reinforcing mesh;
• Place mounting tape to secure the cable at a distance of at least 10 cm from the load-bearing wall. Fixation is carried out with dowels. A similar operation is carried out along the opposite wall. Note that the mounting tape will simultaneously fix the reinforcing mesh;

• stick damper tape on the wall.

Installation instructions for electric heated floors

We’ll walk you through the process of installing cable "warm floors" step by step.

Installing the thermal sensor is step one. Take a corrugated tube that is 35–40 cm long and has a diameter of 20 mm to accomplish this. To prevent the solution from seeping into the screed when it is poured, one end is securely packed with insulation. In the corrugation is a temperature sensor.

You can test how simple it will be to remove the sensor after pouring the screed by making small back and forth movements. Make a tiny incision with a knife in the tube’s insulation. About 30 centimeters is its length. It is easier to replace the temperature sensor if it fails when it is positioned in the corrugation’s recess such that the second end of the tube protrudes slightly above the screed.

Step 2 involves marking the cable laying. Here, you must abide by the following guidelines:

• the long side of the cable is laid at a distance of 10 cm from the walls;

• from the loop to the wall there must be at least 5 cm;

• the distance between the wires is at least 8 cm;

• coil length 50-60 cm.

It’s important to remember to run the supply wires along the walls when installing a single-core cable. At the onset of the turns, they are connected to the hot cable.

Step 3: The cable is installed in accordance with the insulation’s printed diagram. Tape or specialized clamps are used to secure the supply wire. Tendrils of mounting tape are used to secure the hot cable turns. In this instance, it is imperative to guarantee that the wires within the turns are arranged in a parallel manner.

Step 4: The tester examines the cable’s primary indicators. It is acceptable to deviate from the values specified in the instructions by up to 10%.

Step 5: In accordance with the instructions, connect the thermostat’s power cables and temperature sensor. The diagram below illustrates the most widely used approach.

Step 6: Pouring the screed. Here’s where you can see how to fill it out accurately and quickly.

Next, we’ll examine how to use infrared mats to create a heated floor on a balcony with your hands.

Infrared heated floor

In order to install IR "warm floor," you must sketch out the film’s location. The following conditions need to be fulfilled:

• wires should not cross;
• the film is laid along the balcony in one row;
• in places where furniture is planned to be installed, laying IR film is excluded;
• along the perimeter, the distance to the walls is 25-30 cm;
• the temperature sensor is placed in the middle of the balcony, but with the condition that its standard wiring is sufficient to reach the thermostat.

Materials and tools

In order to use infrared film to heat a balcony, you must buy:

• infrared heating system kit. It includes:

1. film;
2. electrical wires;
3. contacts in the form of clips;
4. clips for fixing IR film;
5. tape with bitumen applied.

• temperature sensor and wires for it;
• thermostat;
• foil insulation (you can use a substrate 40-50 mm thick);
• rolled waterproofing material – needed when laying laminate, block parquet, parquet boards;
• insulating tape;
• masking tape or household tape.

The equipment you ought to carry with you is:

• knife or scissors;
• roulette;
• pliers;
• construction pencil or felt-tip pen.

Preparing the base

IR film is extremely sensitive to any irregularities in the base that it is installed on. The balcony slab is level as a result. This can be seen in action here.

Prior to playing the movie:

• the surface of the subfloor is thoroughly vacuumed;
• a thermal insulation layer of foil backing 40-50 mm thick is laid – the reflective side should face up;
• connecting seams are glued with special metallized tape;
• the foil is grounded through the nearest outlet in the kitchen (there may be no “ground” in other rooms);
• a recess is cut in the insulating layer for the temperature sensor and the wiring from it.

Important: The installation diagram appears like this in nearly all of the instructions found on specialized websites:

• screed;
• foil;
• "Penofol", laid with the reflective side up, then IR film.

The site’s editors claim that the foil on the screed is a publicity gimmick because, in a crowded area, the foil’s reflective qualities vanish. For the mirror effect to occur, a minimum gap that is marginally greater than the wavelength is required.

Installation instructions

The following is the step-by-step algorithm for setting up a heated floor using infrared elements:

• grooves are knocked out in the wall for the power cable. Width – 20 mm, depth – 20 mm, length 150 mm above floor level. Use a crown or grinder to cut a hole for the thermostat.

Note: SNiP permits wall-mounted wiring, but in this scenario, the wiring needs to be shielded from harm using a specialized plastic channel.

• a thermostat is installed;

• IR film is cut into strips according to a special mark;

• free silver contacts (no connection will be made to them) are sealed with bitumen tape (included in most kits);

• the film is placed on the balcony with the copper strip down in accordance with the drawn up diagram. The strips are attached to each other and to the foil using household tape or masking tape;
• a terminal is attached to the conductive strip using a clip. To do this, the upper part of the clip is inserted into the film through a technological incision, the lower part remains outside. After this, the clip is crimped with pliers;

• bare wires are inserted into the terminal and clamped;

• open areas of the terminal and wiring are insulated with strips of bitumen tape: one is glued on top, the other on the bottom, after which they are tightly connected. If there are any air bubbles left between the strips of tape, they must be removed;

• for the temperature sensor, wires and terminals, recesses are cut out in the insulation;
• Temperature sensor installed. To do this, an IR film is wrapped over the recess in the insulation under the temperature meter. A measuring device is attached to its reverse side with bitumen tape. The wires from the sensor are recessed into a cut in the insulation. The film is returned and again glued to the insulation with tape;

• all wires laid in insulation are sealed with tape;
• current-carrying wiring is connected to the thermostat through the terminals;
• the entire system is grounded;
• test run is in progress.

The work "Installation of infrared heated floors under laminate" goes into further detail about the process of installing infrared heated floors.

Your balcony or loggia can be made much cozier and more functional by adding a warm floor. You don’t need a lot of experience or specialized equipment to get professional results if you follow the instructions and advice in this guide. The secret is to work methodically, make thoughtful plans, and select the appropriate supplies.

Recall that preparation is essential. Before installing any heating or insulation, make sure your subfloor is clean and level. In addition to increasing your heating system’s efficiency, proper insulation shields it from potential harm brought on by moisture and uneven surfaces.

When putting in the heating elements, take your time. Make sure the mats are firmly fixed and distributed uniformly, regardless of whether you go with water-based or electric options. This will guarantee uniform warmth throughout the space and avoid any cold spots.

Don’t rush the last few steps, to sum up. Before activating the heating system, give the screed or adhesive enough time to set properly. Long-term results will reward your patience, guaranteeing a warm floor that is effective and long-lasting and that you can use for many years to come.

You will save money and have the satisfaction of making your balcony or loggia a warm and welcoming area if you take on this project yourself. Your DIY warm floor has the potential to be the centerpiece of your home renovation project with a little perseverance and meticulous attention to detail.

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