A stable and long-lasting surface is essential for outdoor flooring in order to withstand different weather conditions and frequent use. For outdoor areas, semi-dry screed provides a useful option that strikes a balance between robust performance and ease of installation. Semi-dry screeds, which form a stiff consistency perfect for outdoor environments, involve a controlled mixture of cement, sand, and very little water, in contrast to traditional wet screeding methods that depend on a higher water content.
Compared to wet screeding, semi-dry screeding has the advantage of setting up quickly, which speeds up project completion on outdoor surfaces. This efficiency is especially useful in places where minimizing downtime is crucial, such as patio spaces, driveways, and pathways. Using devices like vibrating plates, the semi-dry mix can be compacted effectively, guaranteeing a level finish that supports drainage and stability—both of which are critical for locations that frequently experience rain or snow.
The adaptability of semi-dry screed to different finishes and coverings is another noteworthy characteristic. The even and stable base that a semi-dry screed provides allows you to choose from a wide range of functional and aesthetically pleasing options, whether you want to lay tiles, paving stones, or other outdoor coverings. Because of its versatility, it’s a well-liked option for contractors and homeowners looking for dependable outdoor flooring solutions.
- Is it possible to do it or not??
- Requirements
- SNIPs and other standards
- Design and pie
- How to do it right: step-by-step instructions
- Difficulties and errors
- Protection and processing
- Impregnations and paints
- Roll and sheet materials
- Coverage options
- Varnish
- Concrete tiles
- Rubber crumb
- Self-leveling floors
- Advantages and disadvantages
- Average expenses
- Video on the topic
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Is it possible to do it or not??
Screeding the floor outside is possible, but not always. It is contingent upon the concrete brand and coating operating conditions. When there is a significant mechanical load—a machine weight pressure of more than 120 kg per square centimeter—it is not practical to use B12.5 concrete. This coating will disintegrate very rapidly. In this instance, setting up a concrete floor with wet technology is far more profitable.
Locations where semi-dry concrete coating can be set up:
- Blind area near the house and technical premises.
- Paths and sidewalks with pedestrian traffic.
- Children"s playground with swings and other structures.
- The floor of the gazebo or terrace, either glazed or not.
The weight of the vehicle and the existence of wheel studs are the only restrictions on the use of dry technology in the area in front of the garage.
Requirements
Fiberglass is used in the concrete mixture known as semi-dry screed. The composition is strengthened and made more flexible by these additions.
The primary distinction between this floor and the conventional one is the smaller amount of water used in the cement mixture mixing process.
SNIPs and other standards
The primary documents that govern quality indicators up to a street-level semi-dry screed are:
- SNiP 2.03. 13-88 “Floors”;
- GOST 27006 “Concrete. Rules for selecting the composition";
- MDS 31-6.2000 “Recommendations for flooring”;
- GOST 7473-2010 “Concrete mixtures. Technical specifications".
Selecting the appropriate building materials to add to mixtures determines the strength and longevity of concrete pavement.
These requirements are outlined in the following standards:
- GOST 7473-94 “Concrete mixtures”;
- GOST 8736-93 “Sand for floor screed”;
- GOST 25328-82 “Cement for mortars”;
- GOST 28013-89 “Building mortars”.
By following the advice given in them, you can lay concrete pavement without making common mistakes.
You should select the appropriate brand of concrete for the screed arrangement.
- M300 and above – for a platform for a car;
- M250-400 – for blind areas and paths;
- M200-300 for terraces and gazebos, areas in front of the house.
For glazed structures in the yard, the coating’s minimum allowable strength must be at least 133 kg/sq. cm. These signals line up with Concrete Class 12.5.
Use the strongest concrete that can endure the most defrosting cycles if the blind area is constructed on heaving soils.
The semi-dry screed should shrink by no more than 0.2 mm/m upon drying.
The type of coating determines the layer’s thickness:
- For paths in the country – 80-120 mm.
- Car platform – 100-150 mm.
- Blind areas – 70-150 mm.
Concrete dries over a period of one day, during which it can be walked on, and takes a week to reach its full operational load.
Rainwater should drain from the floor at a slope of 15-20 degrees, which translates to an increase or decrease of 20–30 mm for every meter of length.
Features of concrete screed
- Compressive strength – 15-22 MPa.
- Frost resistance – from F150 and more.
Depending on the type of concrete used—W2 for M200 concrete and W4 for M300—the moisture resistance of such a coating varies.
P4 or P5 is the workability grade for mechanically poured semi-dry screed.
The outdoor floor, which typically comes from a brand with the designation F150–F200 in Russia, needs to be able to endure the most cycles of defrosting and refreezing. This amount will last for a very long time. Water absorption is the second factor, and it ought to be negligible. The coating will last longer if it is smaller.
Design and pie
The purpose of each coating determines its features.
Pie in the floor for a path beneath the tiles:
- Compacted base.
- Geotextile 2-3 mm.
- Crushed stone in a layer of 100-200 mm.
- Geotextile again so that the sand does not mix with the crushed stone and does not go into the ground.
- Sand cushion 80 mm.
- Concrete screed with fiber 50-150 mm.
- Backfill material (expanded clay, sand) in a layer of 30 mm.
- Final coating – tiles or paving stones.
Such a design can be laid successfully in all situations involving heaving soils, as well as in situations where the site is primarily composed of clay, peat, or dusty sand.
Under a car platform, the floor pie:
- Base, compacted.
- Sand (150 mm).
- Geotextile.
- Crushed stone (100-120 mm).
- Waterproofing layer (isol, brizol).
- Reinforcing mesh 10×10 or 20×20 cm.
- Concrete screed.
- Tile.
Reinforcement is reapplied if the concrete floor layer is greater than 250 mm. The car area is not always coated with the final layer. Sometimes there is no treatment applied to the bare screed.
In outdoor screeds, wire is used in place of welding to create the reinforcing layer. The latter scenario could result in the floor collapsing due to concrete deformation.
In this article, we explore the practical benefits and considerations of using semi-dry screed for outdoor spaces. Semi-dry screed offers a versatile solution for creating durable and level surfaces in areas like terraces, driveways, and garden paths. By striking a balance between fluidity for easy spreading and solidity for strength, this method ensures efficient installation and minimal maintenance. We"ll delve into its advantages, such as quick drying times that allow for faster project completion, and discuss key factors like weather conditions and material choices that influence its effectiveness. Whether you"re planning a DIY project or hiring professionals, understanding the nuances of semi-dry screed can help you achieve a resilient and aesthetically pleasing outdoor flooring solution.
How to do it right: step-by-step instructions
Use the following order of preparatory work to arrange a screed beneath the platform:
- Dig a base 25 cm deep.
- Clean it from plant roots.
- Installing formwork under the platform.
- Making a layer of clay.
- A waterproofing film is laid on the resulting base.
- Next comes sand, which is compacted and moistened over the entire surface.
- Geotextiles laid on sand. This step allows you to evenly distribute the load on the base.
- After this, a layer of crushed stone is poured, moistened and compacted.
Waterproofing must be installed both above and below the current sand cushion. You can use this layer:
- isol or hydroisol;
- geotextiles with a thickness of at least 2 microns.
Use thermal insulation if you want to further shield the screed from soil freezing. It can be constructed from foam with an 80–120 mm layer.
Within the current formwork, a reinforcing mesh is inserted, retreating two to three centimeters from the site’s edges. Installing the coating 15 mm above the film rather than directly on it will ensure its durability. The beacons are then put in place. You can even out the coating at this point.
You can mix the mixture yourself or use ready-made concrete for pouring.
A concrete pump is required in order to deliver the cement mixture to the job site. And a concrete mixer to dilute.
Make sure that the mixture can be applied to the surface after mixing it to a density that prevents the composition from crumbling when touched.
After that, the consistency is leveled and put into formwork.
In a day or two, the screed dries. The surface is covered with film once it has been cleared of surplus moisture.
The coating is compacted using a shovel by hand, a vibrating machine, or tapping the screed to speed up this process. The coating is leveled using the rule at the conclusion of this procedure.
By covering the floor with film, you can stop the concrete from swelling and guarantee even drying.
The entire area is moistened evenly with the screed while it dries. The completed coating becomes stronger in a month.
Water-repellent additives should be used for the screed in place of water if the concrete mixture is not flexible enough to be evenly distributed over the surface. They facilitate application, which is crucial when applying semi-dry screed.
The work sequence for laying the path includes a cushion of crushed stone sanded to match the floor plan. Geotextiles, which serve as a waterproofing material, are required between the soil and the layer of crushed stone. So, in this case, a movie is not necessary.
The technology used in work is the same as that used in building an automobile platform. Make sure to use a shovel to tap the screed in order to eliminate any extra bubbles from the mixture.
Concerning the incline:
- For car parking, you can make a ramp with an angle of 25 degrees to the outside of the parking lot.
- It is advisable to make the entire site with a slight slope so that rainwater does not accumulate in front of the garage.
In the event that the entire path is composed of concrete, the center of the screed should have a thickness that is 1-2 mm greater than the edges. This is done to allow water to seep into the ground and protect the path’s material.
Workflow for making a screed for a blind area:
- Mark the required width of the blind area. According to building codes from 0.5 m to 1 m.
- Remove soil using a spade bayonet. Fill with an intermediate waterproof layer of clay.
- Install the formwork from the outside.
- Lay a sand-crushed stone cushion. First, sand (50 mm thick, minimum), then pouring with water, then crushed stone (80-100 mm) and re-wetting.
- After this, waterproofing is done along the foundation of the building. Here the simplest method is roofing felt in two layers with an overlap of 10 cm.
- Next – pouring a semi-dry mixture with plasticizers and fiber fibers using the same technology as above for the track.
Once the screed is finished, you can install porcelain tiles, any kind of paving slab, or curb slabs.
Difficulties and errors
Common errors made when working with semi-dry screed include:
- Laying coating at temperatures less than 5 degrees Celsius. Solutions cannot set and harden evenly and do not gain strength.
- Independent preparation of a mixture with non-compliance with proportions. When mixing, it is better to add plasticizers instead of water if the composition turns out almost dry and crumbles. A large amount of water will reduce the strength of the cement mixture and the durability of the coating.
- The use of low-quality building materials (M100 concrete instead of M400 for blind areas), cement with low frost resistance and increased moisture permeability.
When selecting materials, it is preferable to go with more costly concrete grades that offer a larger safety margin.
Sand with a lower concentration of clay additives (three percent or less) is used for preparation if the mixture is mixed separately.
Protection and processing
The concrete coating in the yard needs to be shielded from the effects of environmental elements, especially water, in order to be long-lasting and beneficial to the owner.
They employ the following for this purpose:
- deep penetration mastics or primers;
- membrane materials or coatings;
- roll waterproofing materials.
Iron is a common protective material. This is impregnation with water and premium cement. Among its shortcomings, the primary one is its rapid breakdown. The floor is coated with cement and water, which is then rubbed into the crevices.
Impregnations and paints
Potential application as a liquid impregnation
- Primer or primer for concrete. It clogs the pores of the floor and increases the strength of the coating.
- Bitumen mastic. Applied by heating to the surface. Serves as a barrier to moisture penetration into concrete.
- Liquid rubber primer. After application it hardens and also forms a barrier to water. Its composition is similar to bitumen mastic, but also contains polymers that enhance its protective properties.
- Conventional paints or varnishes. Before painting, the surface is treated with concrete contact or primer, then paint is applied in several layers.
One of the newest inventions is polymer film. applied liquid-form to the self-leveling floor’s surface that is placed over the screed. gives a decorative effect on a smooth surface. Suitable for covering the terrace’s floor.
Roll and sheet materials
If the terrace screed is covered, use roofing felt or another high-strength roll material. Applying it involves fusing it to the surface.
Unwind the material and heat the edges at the same time so that the rolls overlap one another.
Such film insulation needs to be covered with a finishing coat. This can be finished concrete screed, self-leveling mixture, paving slabs, or artificial lawn.
Coverage options
Final materials can be applied to the screed. It is employed for this reason:
- Paving slabs.
- Varnish for concrete.
- Rubber crumb.
- Self-leveling floors.
- Paving stones.
There are installation features for every coating. Paving stones are set into a backfill-free concrete base. All you have to do is apply a primer layer on the exterior. The stones are then positioned on the screed and adjusted to one another using glue.
Varnish
The easiest coating requires no expertise to apply; you can handle the construction work yourself.
The surface must first be prepared by using acetone to degrease it, priming it, applying a penetrating sealant (which serves as waterproofing), and finally painting it. Following this work, two to three coats of varnish are applied to the completed floor.
Concrete tiles
Accessible in various hues. Tile grout, a spatula, a level to measure the floor’s level, and other supplies are needed for installation.
A dry mixture that has been filled is used to lay the material. It might be a mixture of cement. Pre-installed beacons are arranged based on level. The gaps are filled in with the filler in an even distribution.
Next, lay the tiles, beginning at the corner. Make the necessary corrections with a rubber mallet.
Water is sprayed over the completed structure. This is required in order for the tiles to set and harden in between the cement mixture.
Rubber crumb
Once served as a playground covering. Easy to apply and has a nice decorative appearance.
When working, you require:
- the granules themselves are made of rubber;
- epoxy glue and hard-pile rollers;
- material spraying machine.
Prior to application, the sides for the balls are installed and markers are used to demarcate the boundaries of the multicolored granule patterns.
The mixture is carefully leveled with rollers pointing in various directions after being poured into the center of the designated area. After that, grout until the surface is smooth after allowing the rubber crumb to harden for five to ten minutes.
The resulting topcoat is ready for use after it dries in two days.
Regarding the characteristics of the material used in the video to set up a blind area:
Self-leveling floors
The finished surface complements contemporary home design and is easy to install. Formwork, a mixer, and rollers for spreading the composition across the surface are needed for installation.
First, get the mixture ready:
- take the polymer composition in bags,
- mix it with water repellents and various additives (frost-resistant, for plasticity).
Install the formwork, pour the liquid composition on top of it, and use needle rollers to smooth out any bubbles. If needed, repeat until the desired thickness is reached.
After that, the floor will dry in a day.
Advantages and disadvantages
Note the following as some of the benefits:
- Fast drying, which is especially important if the weather quickly deteriorates.
- Coating strength. Less water and a high content of fiber additives make this screed resistant to adverse factors.
Problems that lead to a semi-dry screed:
- Labor intensity of work. Installation of this type requires not only professionalism, but also the use of technology.
- Coverage protection must be ensured. Without it, it will begin to dust and collapse.
- It is difficult to ensure a presentable appearance: cleaning stains is impossible, since concrete absorbs substances.
Without a finishing coat, a concrete screed can last four to seven years before needing to be replaced or constantly repaired.
Average expenses
The quantity of underlying layers, component costs, and the actual construction work all affect the cost of making a screed.
A basic concrete screed with a flooded area of 60 square meters will cost 900 rubles per square meter, accounting for the cost of materials with a thickness of 800 mm or more.
The cost of laying a basic screed with a thickness of 70 mm, including crushed stone and sand, is 40–70 sq. m. + 650 rubles for installation; if the area is smaller, the price in the Russian Federation is typically not less than 40,000 rubles.
When thinking about outdoor flooring options, semi-dry screed is a useful and long-lasting choice. Its mixture of water, sand, and cement fortifies the base, making it resistant to weather conditions. This kind of screed is especially useful in moist areas because it helps keep water out and keeps its stability over time.
The ease of installation of semi-dry screed makes it a valuable material for outdoor applications. It can be used quickly and effectively, cutting down on project timelines and labor costs. Because of this, it is a practical option for outdoor projects, both commercial and residential, where timeliness is essential.
Semi-dry screed also permits design and application flexibility. It can be made to fit a range of landscaping requirements and guarantee a level surface by adjusting to different thicknesses and slopes. Because of its adaptability, it can be used to pave outdoor spaces like patios, driveways, and pathways.
In conclusion, because of its adaptability, durability, and ease of installation, semi-dry screed stands out as a dependable option for outdoor flooring. This kind of screed provides a useful and durable solution for your building and remodeling projects, regardless of your goals—improving functionality or the visual appeal of your outdoor area.