Leveling your wooden floors can bring back their aesthetic appeal and functionality if you live in an older apartment or have noticed that they aren’t quite level. Problems such as squeaks, gaps, and challenges when installing new flooring can result from uneven floors. Thankfully, leveling a wooden floor is a doable do-it-yourself project that can enhance the appearance and atmosphere of your room.
It’s critical to determine the extent of the unevenness before beginning the leveling process. Over time, settling or variations in humidity can cause wooden floors to sag or develop high spots. First, locate any spots where the floor may dip or where there may be raised boards.
Use of a floor leveling compound is among the easiest ways to level a wooden floor. The purpose of these self-leveling compounds is to even out small irregularities and fill in low areas. They can fix minor unevenness fairly quickly and are simple to apply.
Shimming may be required for dips or slopes that are more substantial. To raise low spots and create a more even surface, thin, tapered wedges, also known as shims, are placed under the subfloor. Shimming can be fine-tuned to attain exact leveling and is useful for localized issues.
Make sure the flooring is clear of debris and clean before beginning any leveling work. Better adherence for leveling compounds is ensured by this preparation, which also aids in providing an accurate evaluation of the floor’s state. Before leveling, make sure there are no structural problems or water damage that needs to be fixed.
We look at doable ways to level a wooden floor in your apartment without hiring a pro in this guide. Using readily available tools and materials, we’ll go over step-by-step instructions for fixing any minor unevenness or larger dips in your floor. To make sure your wooden floors are smooth and even and prepared for any new flooring or finishing touches you have planned, we offer straightforward, do-it-yourself advice on everything from evaluating the condition of the floor to selecting the best leveling technique—such as shimming or using self-leveling compound.
- Why does the flooring in an apartment become uneven??
- What can you use for repairs??
- Alignment methods
- Tsiklyovka
- Sheet material
- Plywood on joists
- Screed
- Required tools and materials
- How to do the job yourself: step-by-step instructions
- Video on the topic
- how to level a wooden floor in an old house
- How to Quickly and Reliably Level an Old Floor
- How to level a wooden floor.
- Reliably Level Old Floor Planks
- How to Level Wood Floors in an Old House? Reliably level the floor from planks. Step-by-step instruction
- How to quickly and easily level a wooden floor under linoleum ?
Why does the flooring in an apartment become uneven??
The primary cause of the boards’ quick deterioration under heavy use is errors made during the laying process. They are listed in the following order:
- Incorrectly set logs. The flooring process involves two stages. The first is the installation of the outer joists, between which the rope is stretched. The second is laying the rest of the material along this rope. If the logs are located in different planes, then the finished surface has strong differences.
- The dimensions of the lags do not correspond to real loads. The result is that areas bend, become deformed, and even break.
- The covering is created from wet or too dry boards. Wet material swells, rots, and cracks over time. Dry – it warps, and large gaps appear between the boards.
- Natural ventilation or waterproofing is arranged with gross violations of technology. Lumber rots, loses its performance properties, and sag. The problem can be eliminated only by completely replacing the floor covering.
These facts call for the base to be leveled immediately. You must ascertain the nature of the irregularities and the precise reason behind their appearance in order to complete the work accurately.
One of the following techniques can be used to ascertain the extent and type of the unevenness in the base: horizontally (using a laser, bubble, or water level); deflections; or by observing the curvature of the boards.
What can you use for repairs??
Reassembling a plank surface after disassembly is a labor-intensive, lengthy, and complicated procedure. Thus, not all apartment owners will choose to undertake this maintenance. However, fixing a malfunctioning floor becomes more challenging and costly the longer it is in use.
Some methods for manually leveling an apartment floor include:
- looping;
- local alignment;
- dry screed;
- use of self-leveling compounds;
- leveling with joists or pads.
It is required to use a laser level that is 2000 mm long to measure differences. Alignment is necessary if their indicator is greater than 2 mm per square meter. If it’s less, it’s something you can live with. Still, there’s no reason to put off repairs.
Alignment methods
We’ll then talk about common techniques for manually leveling wooden floors. It is necessary to patiently go over each step, pay close attention to detail, and remember accuracy.
Tsiklyovka
Utilized when there are only slight alterations.
A scraping machine is used during processing. It is possible to rent equipment. If this isn’t feasible, utilize an electric aircraft instead.
There are four steps in surface scraping:
- Preparation. Remove furniture and interior items from the room. Remove skirting boards. Thoroughly sweep out the trash, wash the floor, wait for it to dry completely. Hammer the protruding nails. If they are damaged, it is better to remove them and hammer in new ones. Reinforce loose areas with self-tapping screws.
- Looping. Start processing from the corner, slowly moving along the wall. Having reached the next corner, turn the car around and continue driving. The main thing is to treat the surface in narrow strips, carefully.
- Sealing cracks. After the end of the second stage, you can clearly notice cracks and crevices in the floor. To close them, just buy acrylic putty. The shade must match the surface. Use strictly according to the manufacturer"s instructions. Level with a metal or rubber spatula. Wait until completely dry.
- Final works. Go over the surface again with a scraping machine, then vacuum and prime. If the primer is quickly absorbed, then apply another layer: it will close all the pores in the lumber. Then paint or varnish the boards.
Remember to wear personal protection equipment. Goggles, masks, respirators, and specialized clothes can all help avoid respiratory tract blockage and poisoning.
We cordially encourage you to view this video on sanding a wooden floor:
Sheet material
When using only horizontal board leveling, a wavy floor can be corrected. The substance that is employed is:
- plywood;
- chipboard;
- cement particle board (CPS);
- GVL.
Fiberboard must be avoided since the slabs eventually adopt the shape of the base.
It’s crucial to select lumber carefully. The qualities listed below are crucial when making a purchase:
- Moisture-resistant plywood. Durable, retains heat and noise, suitable for arranging any finishing coatings. Thickness – from 4 to 24 mm.
- DSP. Durability, environmental friendliness, fire safety. Thickness – from 10 to 32 mm.
- Chipboard. Top quality, excellent sound insulation and heat insulation properties, easy processing. Thickness – from 6 to 28 mm.
- GVL. Smoothness and evenness, thermal insulation properties, suitability for arranging any covering. Thickness – from 10 to 12.5 mm.
- OSB. Strength, durability, suitability for any floor coverings. Thickness – 9 mm.
The final product’s quality is influenced by the thickness of the lumber. It is best to go with a denser base if one wants a sturdy and long-lasting wooden covering.
Let’s examine an example of utilizing chipboard to level a floor without tearing the boards off. There are five steps in the process:
- Preparation. Take out the furniture, remove the baseboards, clean the base of old paint. Hammer nails, fill cracks and grooves with putty. Remove all debris and dust. Prime the surface.
- Uncover. The size of the chipboard sheet is 250×185 cm. For convenience, cut it into squares with dimensions of 60×60 cm. This will increase the number of damper seams to eliminate the subsequent influence of sudden temperature changes. Cut the chipboard with a hacksaw, after gluing masking tape to the edges of the board. Act clearly and carefully.
- Fit. Place the finished squares on the floor. Adjust to the size of the base: cut out areas for existing protrusions, trim the edges to offset the seams, leave technological gaps around the perimeter of the room and damper seams between each square. In order not to get confused in the prepared sheets, it is better to number them.
- Laying. Pre-coat the chipboard with drying oil or two layers of primer. Start laying from the corner. In this case, a distance of 1-1.5 cm should remain between the edge and the wall. Secure the sheet with self-tapping screws. Leave a gap of 10 mm between subsequent sheets. Lay the rows so that the offset of the seams is equal to half the sheet.
- Finishing. Cover the joints with acrylic putty or sealant. Using a level, check that the base is horizontal and that there are no differences. Treat rough areas with sandpaper, remove dust, prime. The base is ready for laying decorative flooring.
If sheets are varnished, chipboard can take on the appearance of finishing. It is essential to follow the manufacturer’s instructions and handle each step very carefully.
Please enjoy this video, which shows you how to use plywood to level a wooden floor:
Plywood on joists
By using this technique, you can remove variations ranging from 4 to 10 cm and create a stable foundation for any final coating. The building materials will be plywood up to 4 cm wide, sturdy boards, and beams.
Bringing technology up to date:
- Preparation. Remove everything unnecessary from the room. Remove skirting boards, clean old coating, repair defects.
- Marking. From the highest point of the base, mark a point on the wall with a level. Step back up a distance equal to the thickness of the lumber, put another mark. Using a water level, place marks throughout the entire area of the room. Then connect in one line.
- Installation of logs. Place a waterproofing film on the boards to prevent the entire floor from rotting. Fasten the logs along or across the boards. It is better to mount them in parallel, at a distance of up to 50 cm from each other. Level each element with pads of different thicknesses. Then strengthen the materials with nails.
- Laying plywood boards. Cut sheets into squares. Lay out each element on logs. Secure with self-tapping screws.
- Ventilation arrangement. Ventilation holes extend the life of the wood floor. In opposite corners of the room (under heating appliances), make holes in the plywood so that the grate can easily fit into them. Install a lattice element on top and fill the gaps with glue or sealant.
- Completion. Check the floor level, inspect joints and fastening points. If everything is in order, then fill the seams and recesses from the screws with putty. Sand the surface and remove dust. Apply primer and wait until completely dry.
The thickness of the plywood can be used to calculate the distance between the logs. The space between the logs gets smaller as the lumber gets thinner. It is preferable to use transverse beams with a smaller cross-section to reinforce areas that are subject to higher loads.
Screed
This method works best when the base is concrete, the boards are sturdy and thick, and the unevenness is greater than 1 centimeter. As a screed, a unique dry mixture is employed.
- Preparation. Clean the boards from old paint, grease, debris, dust. Remove skirting boards. Fill cracks and gaps with putty, prime the surface. Lay polyethylene on the base, secure with tape. Place fiberglass mesh on top for reinforcement.
- Fill. Pour the dry mixture into a container with clean water, observing the proportions (they are indicated on the packaging). Mix for 1 minute. Apply the resulting composition to the mesh and level it. Complete all activities within 15 minutes, otherwise the mass will begin to harden.
- Completion. Drying time of the mixture is 4–5 hours. Then sand the joints. The surface is ready for use.
It is necessary that you select a dry mix for the screed according to your budget. The most important thing is to pay attention to its features, attributes, and usage recommendations from the manufacturer.
Required tools and materials
- lumber;
- linings, reinforced and fiberglass mesh;
- screwdriver, self-tapping screws;
- hammer, nails;
- jigsaw or grinder;
- level, pencil;
- metal or plastic spatula, rollers;
- container for mixing dry mixture, construction mixer.
Depending on the alignment technique, the list of instruments and supplies may need to be expanded. To save money, it is preferable to rent equipment.
How to do the job yourself: step-by-step instructions
Utilizing a self-leveling mixture is an intriguing way to cut down on time and expenses.
Among the technologies that level up are:
- Preparation. Clean the surface from dirt and dust. Seal gaps and cracks.
- Carefully prime the base, let it dry.
- Dilute the mixture according to the manufacturer"s instructions.
- Pour the mixture over the entire area, roll it out with a special roller.
Mixtures for self-leveling surfaces solidify rapidly. Should you neglect to even out the surface, it will become more rigid and degraded. It is preferable to fill big spaces in phases.
To level a wooden floor in an apartment: | 1. Remove old flooring and clean the subfloor thoroughly. |
2. Check for uneven spots and fill them with a leveling compound. | |
3. Sand down any high spots and fill low spots as needed. | |
4. Install a moisture barrier if necessary. | |
5. Lay new underlayment to create a smooth surface. | |
6. Install your chosen flooring material over the leveled surface. |
Raising the level of a wooden floor in your apartment can greatly enhance the look and feel of your living area. By smoothing out uneven surfaces, you improve your home’s overall stability and lay a smoother foundation for your flooring.
It’s important to evaluate your current floor’s condition before starting this project. To determine which areas require leveling, look for any dips, bumps, or sagging areas. To determine the amount of work needed, use a straightedge or level to identify any unevenness.
The next step is to get the floor ready for leveling after you’ve located the trouble spots. This include removing all furniture and obstacles from the area, making sure the surface is clean and dry, and taking care of any structural problems like loose boards or protruding nails that might interfere with the leveling procedure.
Depending on how severe the unevenness is, you can choose from a few different methods for leveling. For small irregularities, self-leveling compound is frequently the first choice because it offers a level, smooth finish that works well with a variety of flooring types. If there is more noticeable unevenness, think about sanding down high points or building up low spots with plywood or shims to create a more uniform surface.
Finally, give any materials used enough time to cure and set properly after finishing the leveling process before moving forward with installing new flooring. This guarantees your leveled floor’s resilience and longevity, giving you a solid base for many years to come.
Not only can a properly leveled wooden floor improve the appearance of your room, but it also guarantees longevity and ease of use. A smoother, more even surface that raises the comfort and value of your house will be the outcome, regardless of the technique you choose—self-leveling compounds, shims, or something else entirely.