Installing a ceiling plinth, sometimes referred to as a cornice or molding, can improve any room’s elegance. Handling a stretch ceiling calls for extra caution in order to guarantee a safe and beautiful outcome. Since stretch ceilings are delicate and easily damaged, it’s important to know the proper methods and supplies.
Choosing the right kind of ceiling plinth is the first step in this process. Stretch ceilings are a great use for lightweight, easily applied materials like polystyrene or polyurethane. Additionally, you will require the appropriate adhesive—one that works with the plinth material and the stretch ceiling surface.
When your supplies are ready, it’s time to get the plinth and ceiling ready. Ensure that the area of the ceiling where the plinth is going to be installed is dust-free and clean. To ensure a snug fit at the corners and edges, measure and cut the plinth pieces to precisely fit the dimensions of your ceiling.
The adhesive must be applied precisely. On the rear of the plinth, apply a thin, even layer of adhesive. Take care not to use too much as this could leak out and cause a mess. Placing the plinth against the ceiling requires a light but firm press, which will keep it there until the adhesive hardens. To guarantee a solid bond, it’s critical to adhere to the adhesive manufacturer’s drying time recommendations.
It may be necessary to use a flexible sealant to seal any spaces left between the plinth and the ceiling after it has been installed. This stage keeps the plinth firmly in place and guarantees a seamless appearance. Lastly, for a polished look, think about painting the plinth to match your walls or ceiling.
Attaching a ceiling plinth to a stretch ceiling can be a simple do-it-yourself project if you plan ahead and take the appropriate approach. The outcome is a lovely, polished appearance that gives any space a hint of refinement. If you follow these instructions, installing something professional-looking won’t be difficult.
Step | Description |
1 | Measure the length and width of the ceiling to determine the amount of plinth needed. |
2 | Cut the ceiling plinth to the correct size using a fine-toothed saw or a utility knife. |
3 | Apply adhesive to the back of the plinth. Use a suitable glue that won"t damage the stretch ceiling. |
4 | Carefully press the plinth into place along the edge of the ceiling. Hold it for a few seconds to ensure it sticks. |
5 | Wipe off any excess glue with a damp cloth before it dries. |
6 | Repeat the process for all sides of the ceiling. Make sure the corners align perfectly. |
7 | Allow the adhesive to dry completely before touching or painting the plinth. |
- Why do you need a plinth for a stretch ceiling
- Types of plinths for stretch ceilings
- Criterias of choice
- Weight
- Base width
- Top size
- Strength
- Flexibility
- Length
- Compliance with the interior
- Price
- Calculation of the number of plinths
- Installation instructions for skirting boards
- Preparatory work
- Materials and tools
- Installation technology
- Wallpaper
- Dye
- Alternative option
- Stub
- Decorative cord
- Pros and cons of the alternative option
- Can a stretch ceiling do without a baseboard
- Video on the topic
- How to make a suspended ceiling with plinth? | How to attach a plinth to a suspended ceiling?
- HOW TO GLUE BAGUETTES ON A STRETCH CEILING
- Ceiling skirting board for suspended ceiling
- How to Glue Skirting Boards under a Stretch Ceiling
Why do you need a plinth for a stretch ceiling
One of the room’s decorative elements is a fillet (baguette, plinth). Placing a plinth enables you to:
- give the interior a finished look: make the room stylish, elegant, cozy;
- hide mistakes made in work;
- mount decorative lighting based on LED strip without installing a special niche for these purposes.
Types of plinths for stretch ceilings
Ceiling fillets for suspended ceilings are available for purchase made of a variety of materials:
- gypsum;
- wood;
- PVC;
- extruded polystyrene;
- polystyrene foam;
- polyurethane.
But because suspended ceilings have certain specifications, home artisans are limited to using plastic, polystyrene, foam, and polyurethane baguettes.
Styrofoam. The foam fillet comes in a range of textures, is inexpensive, lightweight, and adheres firmly to any wallpaper. You can use acrylic water-based emulsion paint if needed (refresh).
Its low elasticity causes it to break or leave large gaps on very uneven walls. Its ability to melt in solvents prevents it from being used with adhesives that contain acetone, gasoline, various alcohols, benzene, etc.
Polythene. Polyurethane products look beautiful because they can be cast with the most intricately shaped surfaces. Because of the material’s flexibility and durability, you can design walls with any curve, even columns.
The primary drawbacks of polyurethane fillets are their high cost and substantial weight, which means that self-tapping screws can be used to attach them to the wall instead of glue because they cannot bear the weight of the wallpaper.
Polymer. Polyvinyl chloride, the material used to make plastic fillets, offers a number of benefits.
- affordable price;
- can be pasted on wallpaper;
- moisture resistance, thanks to which you can decorate the kitchen and bathroom with their high humidity;
- resistance to burnout;
- the ability to make connections in corners using special corners, which greatly simplifies the installation technology.
- begins to turn yellow over time;
- if handled carelessly, marks in the form of dents remain on the surface;
- PVC is an electrostatic material, which in practice leads to dust accumulation.
Polystyrene extruded. Fillets made of polystyrene have:
- budget price;
- large assortment selection;
- elasticity.
Given the low cost, the following drawbacks are tolerable and not life-threatening:
- easily damaged by sharp objects;
- dissolves in some types of glue.
Criterias of choice
A plinth for suspended ceilings should take into consideration several aspects of the product that customers find important. Among the primary standards for selection are:
- fillet weight;
- base width;
- top size;
- strength;
- flexibility;
- length;
- compliance with the interior;
- price.
Weight
In order to prevent damage and wrinkle formation to the canvas, ceiling moldings are installed on the wall with a technological gap of 3–5 mm between the upper part of the fillet and the stretched ceiling. The entire weight required to fix the fillets in this instance falls against the wall. Additionally, it might have putty (plaster) or wallpaper on it, both of which have varying strength coefficients for tearing away from the base.
Consequently, it is not a good idea to attach heavy polyurethane, wood, or gypsum plinths to the trellises because there is a good chance that they will sink in with the wallpaper, if not right away then over time. Here, foam material or extruded polystyrene are required.
Polyurethane holds plaster quite well, but self-tapping screws work best when fastening wood and stucco.
Base width
The following determines the fillet base’s width:
- strength of connection with the wall, which is natural. After all, the larger the plane is smeared with glue, the higher the adhesion. There is one requirement here: the width of the adjacent part must be at least 25 mm;
- visual perception of the plinth. So, in small rooms, narrow fillets look better, unlike wide ones: they reduce the volume. In such cases, designers advise adhering to the following ratios: with a ceiling height of up to 2.5 m, you need to buy a narrow plinth – up to 4 cm wide; for rooms with a height of 2.5-3.0 m – 5-10 cm; over 3.0 m – from 10.0 cm.
Top size
Given that the plinth’s upper portion conceals the technological gap, its size ought to be adequate to conceal the space between the sheet and the profile. In this instance, there’s an additional consideration to make: will the baseboard have LED lighting installed? If so, you’ll need to purchase a baguette with a wide top in order to conceal the LED strip.
Strength
When we discuss the mechanical strength of decorative elements, we are referring to their strength. The ceiling molding should ideally be able to bend without breaking. This requirement is fully satisfied by elastic polyurethane. Consequently, you should use caution when using products made of other materials, especially polystyrene foam, as these parts are less flexible and durable.
Flexibility
Only those flexibility indicators with uneven walls or convex (concave) curves in place require your attention. There isn’t much of a choice in this instance—only polyurethane. Whereas extruded polypropylene will leave big gaps, polystyrene foam will crumble. It won’t help to try to navigate a challenging area with little fragments either, as the location will draw attention right away.
Length
Although there is a good deal of variation in the length of the moldings, 2-meter ones are typically the most readily available. As a result, it is feasible to maximize baseboard size while simultaneously resolving the issue of fewer wall joints and less material waste.
Compliance with the interior
It is pointless to offer detailed guidance on the molding design because everyone has a different definition of beauty. As a result, we only offer advice in this case.
- If there are a large number of corners, it is better to buy a relief baseboard – the connection of the wall with the ceiling looks more harmonious in this case.
- When finishing a two-level ceiling, a plain baguette with a smooth surface looks better.
- For classic interior design styles, decor with stucco elements is better suited; modern trends are best suited for smooth, not very wide fillets.
- Smooth, medium-width (6-8 cm) skirting board looks good in all interior design styles and any design, from elaborate to simple.
- White plinth together with a light ceiling visually expands the space.
- It is better to avoid skirting boards with a complex surface shape – difficulties arise when connecting in the corners of the room.
Price
Purchasing foam material is preferable if the baseboard has no unique requirements. It has nearly the same consumer qualities but is far less expensive.
Calculation of the number of plinths
It is always important to plan ahead when buying finishing materials to account for unforeseen overruns. As a result, a correction factor is always included in the calculation formulas. With fillets, it’s very easy to do what you want: measure the circumference of the ceiling and add another strip to the result (you can do more at a lower cost, and there won’t be as many joints where you have to glue little scraps later). This is sufficient to correct errors when cutting ends at a 45° angle and to adjust joints in corners.
Your room’s appearance can be improved by adding a seamless transition between the wall and ceiling by adhering a ceiling plinth to a stretch ceiling. The right adhesive and meticulous preparation are needed for this task to guarantee a tight fit without compromising the fragile stretch ceiling material. You can achieve a polished finish that gives your space a professional touch with a few easy steps and patience.
Installation instructions for skirting boards
There are various sections to the instructions on attaching a ceiling plinth to a suspended ceiling:
- preparation of the base;
- materials and tools;
- installation technology.
Preparatory work
Dust must be removed from the wallpaper and priming must be applied to the painted surface in order to guarantee proper glue adhesion to the wall surface. It is preferable to glue the wallpaper after the fillets are installed, if at all possible. However, it is best to paint it beforehand and give it enough time to dry completely.
Materials and tools
You need to prepare the following supplies and equipment ahead of time in order to attach the plinth beneath the suspended ceiling:
- fillets;
- adhesive (how to choose it correctly can be found in the material “How to choose adhesive for baseboards”);
- stepladder;
- sandpaper;
- cutting tool (construction knife, metal saw or wood saw with fine teeth);
- miter box;
- tape measure;
- construction pencil or marker;
- spatula;
- ruler;
- a rag or sponge to wipe off excess glue protruding from under the baseboard.
Installation technology
The same technology can be used to affix moldings to walls with varying finishes. The distinction lies in minute details, which we will address one by one. The work is completed in the following order, step by step.
- The ends of the moldings are inspected – they should have a cutting angle of 90 o and a smooth surface. If the condition is not met, it is necessary to cut off the damaged ends with a miter box, and then sand them with sandpaper.
- You need to start gluing from the inner corners, all of them – this way there is less complex adjustment. To do this, the ends of the baseboard are cut at an angle of 45 o in the miter box . For those who do not know how to work with this device, we advise you to look at the work "How to use a miter box for a baseboard". In this case, it is necessary to cut the left and right strips. You can see how to perform the operation correctly in the work “How to make a corner on a ceiling plinth”.
- After cutting the ends, the fillets are connected directly on the wall. This way you can check how well the joints fit together.
- The cut points are ground.
- Glue (liquid nails) is applied to the back side of the plank in accordance with the instructions printed on the packaging. At the same time, on foam plastic fillets, the adhesive is applied pointwise (they are the lightest), but often, on PVC – in a snake, and on polyurethane fillets, the back surface is completely processed. It is also advisable to apply glue to the ends at the junction.
- To prevent glue from accidentally getting on the ceiling, attach cling film to it with masking tape (other types of tape will leave traces of glue).
- The planks are pressed tightly against the wall and held there until the glue sets. The forced fixation time is indicated on the packaging. The foam baseboard can be secured with tape when attached to paint and with tailor"s pins to the wallpaper.
- Using the same principle, the plinth is attached in all corners.
- The roulette is measured not closed by fillets the surface of the walls.
- The skirting board using the rod and the cutting tool is adjusted to the size of the free space on each wall.
- The cuts of the cut are polished, glue is applied to the back, the filler is pressed against the wall.
For information: with problems with finances or lack of desire, a wall with a window, where a curtain cornice is attached close to the ceiling, is not finished with a baguette – curtains or curtains will hide the technological seam. For those who still intend to do all the work, we advise you to fix the baseboard not on the wall, but in front of the cornice – it looks very impressive. To do this, the guide profile is attached to the adjacent walls. To it, parallel to the cornice, a ceiling profile is mounted, on which a narrow strip of drywall is attached with self -tapping screws. She will be the basis for fixing the fillets.
There are subtleties to be considered when attaching fillets to various surfaces.
Wallpaper
Seek guidance from experts if you want to adhere baguette to wallpaper with great results.
- It is better to apply liquid wallpaper after fixing the fillets. If they have already been applied, then it is advisable to remove them from the places where the fillets are attached, especially since the removal process is simple and easy.
- The adhesive should be transparent, which will protect the wall from dark spots if it gets on the wallpaper.
- Excess glue can be removed immediately with a rag or sponge.
- The lightweight plinth is additionally fixed to the wall with tailor"s pins.
Dye
If the wall is painted, how can a plinth be glued to a suspended ceiling? Nothing new needs to be invented in this situation. It is sufficient to adhere precisely to the above-described step-by-step technology. The glue is the only thing you have to be concerned about. It works with foam plastic and polystyrene and should react favorably with the primer applied, not dissolving the baseboard’s base.
Alternative option
Plugs and ornamental cords can be effectively replaced with ceiling plinths for suspended ceilings.
Stub
The plug, which is 1-2 cm wide and has a distinct profile made of rubber, PVC, or polymeric materials, is inserted into grooves specifically designed in the stretch ceiling baguette around the whole perimeter of the room to conceal the technological gap. It goes by a number of names, including decorative rubber insert, masking tape, and elastic band. obtainable in a multitude of hues and tones, allowing for consistent color matching with the stretch ceiling cloth.
How should a plinth be inserted into a suspended ceiling? You don’t need glue, any tools, or experience to fix the elastic. Inserting the protruding portion of the profile into a specific slot connector requires manual labor. It is sufficient to apply light pressure to the inserted sections in order to fully fixate the "spike" into the connector. All the way around the perimeter, the ends are joined at a 90-degree angle.
It is mounted and removed quickly and easily because of the teeth on its profile and the back wall of the baguette that hold it in place.
The plug and suspended ceiling can be ordered together. matched to the canvas’s color, making the technological disparity nearly undetectable. Fits neatly into nooks. Makes cuts using a craft knife.
Because it’s faster, easier, and less expensive than installing skirting boards, this method is more popular with customers than installing skirting boards. Nevertheless, the plug frequently gives the impression that the ceiling and walls are incomplete.
Decorative cord
The essence of this kind of decoration is not well captured by the term decorative cord. Although there are cords for extremely tiny gaps available for purchase, this rope is rather thick and composed of sturdy lavsan threads. accessible in contrasting or simple colors. Frequently, imitation gold and silver metal threads are woven into the cord.
Glued back together. It can be mounted on both rounded and straight wall sections because of its flexibility. Looks great when the fabric is matte and satin.
Customers list the cord’s tendency to gather dust as one of its drawbacks, which must be carefully cleaned on a regular basis.
Pros and cons of the alternative option
In order to evaluate the efficacy of these options for caulking spaces between ceiling sheets and walls, let’s examine the advantages and disadvantages of the substitute.
- no special tools are needed to close gaps;
- do not visually make the room smaller, so they are suitable for small rooms;
- The plug can be easily removed. There are also no obstacles to removing the decorative cord, although the process is more labor-intensive;
- both the plug and the decorative tape can be easily matched in color to the interior of the room;
- high elasticity allows you to design curved sections of walls;
- resistance to high humidity (can be installed in the bathroom);
- easy to maintain.
- decorative cord collects dust, which requires frequent maintenance;
- wide gaps are difficult to hide;
- cord emphasizes significant unevenness of the wall;
- dumbbell moldings look more interesting in the interior.
In conclusion, plugs and decorative cord make nearly perfect replacements for baguettes that can’t be fixed to the wall.
Can a stretch ceiling do without a baseboard
Realities in Russia and the CIS: stretch ceilings without baseboards. The technological divide is mostly sealed with a plug in these places. There are various causes:
- low ceilings – baguettes look ridiculous in this case;
- price factor – plugs are several times cheaper;
- easy and quick to install with your own hands;
- the ability to remove and mount back.
Although this finishing technique appears less complex, it works quite well with contemporary interior design themes. Apart from decorative cord and elastic, a new product called a gapless profile is utilized.
The gap cannot be left entirely unattended. First of all, the ceiling has an amateurish appearance. Secondly, dust will eventually accumulate inside the ceiling space on the stretch ceiling and show through the stretched fabric. Despite this, the dust cannot be removed.
Although installing a ceiling plinth to a stretch ceiling can appear difficult, it’s a doable do-it-yourself project if you take the proper approach. In order to achieve a smooth and polished finish, it is important to be precise and patient. First, assemble all required supplies and equipment, such as measuring tape, adhesive, and a utility knife. Make sure to create clean, straight edges when measuring and cutting the plinth to fit the size of your ceiling.
Make sure you use an adhesive that is specifically made for stretch ceilings and the material of your plinth when applying it. Press the plinth firmly against the ceiling after applying a thin, even layer of adhesive to its back. To give the adhesive time to set, hold it steady for a short while. Working in little segments is crucial, letting each piece fully adhere before moving on to the next. This guarantees a tight fit and keeps the plinth from moving.
After the plinth is positioned, examine your work and make any required corrections. Using a suitable filler, smooth out any gaps or uneven areas and finish the surface with a polished look. This meticulous attention to detail will improve the ceiling’s overall appearance and give your room a unified aesthetic.
When working with a stretch ceiling, keep in mind that your best tools are patience and accuracy. You can improve the aesthetics of your space and produce a stunning, polished result with careful planning and execution. Savor the satisfaction of a job well done and your home’s improved appearance.