One excellent method to raise your home’s energy efficiency is to install thermal blocks. Because of the superior insulation that these blocks offer, your house will stay cool in the summer and warm in the winter. You can lower your energy costs and make your home more comfortable by installing thermal blocks.
Installing thermal blocks is comparatively simple, even for individuals with no prior construction experience. A few crucial steps in the procedure guarantee that the blocks are positioned and fastened correctly. With the correct equipment and a little perseverance, you can finish this project successfully and benefit from improved insulation.
Make sure you have all the supplies you’ll need and thoroughly plan your installation before you begin. This entails taking measurements, getting the surface ready, and making sure you have the appropriate kind of blocks for the job. Planning ahead will help you avoid common pitfalls and facilitate a more seamless installation process.
Installing thermal blocks in your house is as easy as following these steps. Whether you’re working on a new construction project or replacing your old insulation, following these tips will help you get the best results. Together, we can make your house more comfortable and energy-efficient.
- Laying thermal blocks on cement mortar
- ARMOFRAME
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Laying thermal blocks on cement mortar
Now let’s get the cement mortar ready. In a concrete mixer or with a mixer, cement, sand, and water are combined in a ratio of 1:4 for each. Instead of using quarry sand, we advise using river sand and cement grade M 400.
In order to waterproof the foundation, roofing felt needs to be applied before the first layer of thermal blocks can be installed. The chain dressing method is used to lay the thermal blocks on the mortar that has been prepared.
Heat block placement over cement mortar
The following is how heat blocks are laid:
- The load-bearing and facing parts of the heating block are coated with cement mortar, without insulation;
- the solution should not come into contact with the foam; the layers of insulation are adjacent to each other;
- the seams at the joints of the foam plastic are foamed with polyurethane foam vertically (this is mandatory) and horizontally (sometimes during construction an air gap is left in the places of horizontal seams; it also serves as thermal insulation).To prevent the formation of cold bridges, the joints of the blocks are filled with polyurethane foam.
When laying heat blocks, a notched trowel works best. With a rubber-headed mallet, the blocks are adjusted so they stand up straight. Concurrently, the vertical and horizontal portions of the walls are measured using a building level to determine how equal they are.
Using a building level, the horizontality of the laid row and the verticality of the wall are checked.
The 8 mm thick seams created when laying heat blocks on cement mortar are smoothed out with an iron-bristled brush. Lastly, a sealant covering the seams is applied. This sealant is chosen to complement the color of the wall paint that will be used to paint the house.
Gluing heat block placement
The process of laying heat blocks with glue and cement mortar is similar. In terms of the binder itself, cellular concrete adhesive is employed in this instance.
Glue-laying is not the most practical method, though, primarily because it is not always possible to remove the unevenness of the heat blocks; expanded clay concrete blocks, which bear the weight of the heat blocks, may have geometric errors. The amount of glue used is approximately 25 kg, or one bag for every cubic meter of masonry. The amount on the package specifies how much glue should be mixed with water. After that, you can begin lying. Glue covers the load-bearing and decorative/protective portions of the block. Joints with foam are foamed. When placing heat blocks on glue, seams measure 5 mm in width.
Wall reinforcement with heat-block
A reinforcing mesh is placed over the initial rows of heat blocks. It helps to evenly distribute the load around the entire perimeter and raises the walls’ capacity to support weight.
For this reason, every two to three rows of heat blocks have reinforcing mesh laid over them. The cell size should be 5 x 2 cm, and the reinforcement’s diameter should not be greater than 5 mm.
The load-bearing capacity of the walls will be increased by installing reinforcing mesh every two to three rows.
STRENGTHENING BELT
Buildings with two floors or more require the use of monolithic reinforced concrete belts. It aids in uniformly distributing the weight from the floor slabs across all of the house’s walls.
You will need to install temporary formwork in order to install it. Only the interior walls of the house are constructed with wooden formwork when building a house out of thermal blocks. Belt blocks, or simply a facing layer, cover the exterior walls. They symbolize the front portion of the insulation and heating block. The area between the formwork and the belt block is filled with a reinforced frame.
Installing a reinforced frame made of reinforcement rods is a good idea before pouring concrete for the reinforced belt.
ARMOFRAME
The reinforced frame is made up of 10 mm diameter reinforcement rods connected by an iron cord. It is important to keep in mind that the reinforcing frame must be installed below the formwork’s edge and must not come into contact with the row of heat blocks beneath it or the formwork’s walls during installation.
DISPLAYING CONCRETE
A 1:3 ratio (one part cement to three parts sand) is used to prepare concrete for a monolithic belt. To prevent the solution from becoming overly liquid, water is added. Crushed stone is added to the mixture to give it more strength.
Formwork is filled with concrete. Before the monolithic belt for the house made of heat blocks sets, you have to wait a few days. Waiting period minimum: four days. However, we suggest that you put off building walls for a week.
Floor slabs made of reinforced concrete are installed.
You can lay floor slabs after the monolithic reinforcing belt is installed. The sizes of these vary depending on your particular home project. In order to avoid any issues with the facade design between floors, we recommend that when constructing a home out of thermal blocks, the combined height of the slabs and armored belt match the height of two belt blocks.
Special belt blocks cover the floor slabs from the façade.
- If the height of the heat block is 190 cm, and we need 2 of them., then the optimal height of the armored belt together with the floor slabs should correspond to 390 mm.
- This can be easily achieved if slabs with a height of 220 mm are used in construction, with an armored belt of 170 mm.
- The remaining 10 cm goes to the seam.Installation of reinforced concrete floor slabsInstallation of wooden floors
Here, you have two choices for installation. The two options for placing wooden beams are on an armored belt or a heating block. This is accomplished by creating a cell in the load-bearing portion of the block, which can be sawed with a diamond-tipped saw. The size of the cell and the timber must match.
At both ends, roofing felt is wrapped around the beam, and an antiseptic is applied to the wood. This keeps insects, mold, and decaying wood away from the wood. A beam’s width ranges from 150 to 250 mm, and the pitch between them is roughly 600 mm.
The installation of wooden beams on thermal block masonry
Overhead lintel
Metal lintel corners work best when installing heat block walls. Certainly a plus is that they are lightweight and simple to use.
To arrange a window lintel, three metal corners are required.
You will require three lintels for each opening when installing heat blocks around windows and doors. One jumper supports the facing portion of the heat blocks, while two corners support the load-bearing layer of a three-layer block.
Adding thermal blocks to your home is a simple way to improve its energy efficiency. From laying the foundation to securing the blocks in place, this article will walk you through every step of the process. By taking these precautions, you can make sure that your building is sturdy and well-insulated, which will lower energy expenses and help you maintain comfortable interior temperatures. Regardless of your level of experience as a builder, our simple instructions will help you complete the installation quickly and efficiently.
| Step | Description |
| 1 | Prepare the foundation |
| 2 | Lay the first row of thermal blocks |
| 3 | Apply adhesive mortar |
| 4 | Install subsequent rows |
| 5 | Reinforce the structure |
| 6 | Check alignment |
| 7 | Install insulation if needed |
| 8 | Finish with exterior coating |
Thermal block installation is a simple procedure that can greatly increase the energy efficiency of your house. You can guarantee a successful installation that will bring about long-lasting advantages by following the instructions provided in this guide. To guarantee a seamless and effective procedure, don’t forget to thoroughly measure and plan your layout before beginning.
To achieve the best results, follow the manufacturer’s instructions and suggestions. The thermal blocks must be firmly fastened and aligned in order for them to work. Take your time and make sure every block is properly positioned and firmly fastened. Don’t rush the process.
To stop air leaks, make sure that all joints and seams are adequately sealed. By doing this, you can optimize the insulating qualities of the thermal blocks and create a more comfortable living space. Having the appropriate equipment and supplies will facilitate the process and help you accomplish a polished finish.
If you keep these pointers in mind, installing thermal blocks in your home will be a breeze. Your living space will be more comfortable and your heating and cooling expenses will be lower over time if you make this energy-efficient investment. Savor the advantages of a well-insulated house and the fulfillment that comes from a job well done.
