Any construction project must start with a solid foundation, and a strip foundation built of rubble is a dependable option for many. This kind of foundation is affordable and appropriate for light- to medium-weight building support. It is doable even for do-it-yourself enthusiasts because it uses easily obtained materials and simple methods.
A combination of stone and concrete is used to create a sturdy base for a building that evenly distributes its weight. Because of its dependability and ease of use, this technique has been around for centuries and is still widely used. It reduces expenses and the impact on the environment and works particularly well in places where stone is readily available and can be obtained locally.
Careful planning and preparation are necessary when building a rubble strip foundation. All the steps involved in creating a sturdy and long-lasting foundation are crucial, from choosing the appropriate kind of rubble to making sure the drainage is adequate. Building a rubble foundation can be a satisfying and useful way to meet your building needs if you have the right advice.
- Disadvantages and advantages of a rubble foundation
- Features of rubble foundations
- Stone is the basis of the foundation
- Types of missile foundations
- Tape foundation erection technology
- Excavation
- Pillow device
- Preparation for installation
- Laying the first row
- Laying subsequent rows
- Final work
- Video on the topic
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Disadvantages and advantages of a rubble foundation
In addition to wooden structures, the stone foundation provides sturdy support for large brick and concrete homes. Its depth determines how much weight it can support. It is often sufficient to install it on dense soil layers directly beneath the loose fertile layer for bathhouses, sheds, and light-frame buildings. Additionally, it is typically buried below the freezing level when building residential structures.
Let’s examine the characteristics of a rubble foundation as well as the benefits and drawbacks of building one under various circumstances.
Because natural stone has certain physical characteristics, this type of base has advantages:
- durability;
- strength;
- frost resistance;
- moisture resistance;
- environmental friendliness.
They permit foundations to be built without internal reinforcement or waterproofing. Furthermore, decorative finishing is not necessary for the base portion of the foundation because of the stone’s inherent beauty.
The primary drawbacks of a rubble foundation are the amount of labor required, how long it takes to build, and the challenges involved in moving and delivering the base material. Although many view high cost as a drawback, it can vary significantly based on factors like:
- distance from the construction site to the stone quarry;
- the cost of foundation work, which differs in different areas.
A foundation built with your own hands will be less expensive than one made of monolithic reinforced concrete if the house is being built in a rocky area where the primary building material is literally beneath your feet. Since it is too costly to transport heavy stone from a distance, not everyone in flat areas—which encompass a sizable portion of the country’s European region—even knows what a rubble foundation is.
Building a sturdy base for a variety of structures can be accomplished quickly and affordably by constructing a strip foundation out of debris. This kind of foundation is perfect for small buildings or sheds because it combines concrete and rubble stones to create a sturdy and stable support structure. Homeowners can tackle this construction project with confidence if they know the exact steps involved, such as site preparation, trench excavation, and material layering. By using locally available materials and minimizing expenses, a rubble strip foundation can offer durable support with the appropriate tools and methods.
Features of rubble foundations
In actuality, stone masonry with cement mortar makes up a contemporary rubble foundation. It takes more than just understanding the technology used in its creation to make it trustworthy. The type of foundation to be used, the quantity of material required, the nature of the soil at the construction site, and the selection of high-quality rubble are all important considerations.
Stone is the basis of the foundation
Flagstone, or flat stones, are the best for building foundations. These are different rocks that are arranged in layers. They are divided into plates of varying thicknesses and shapes during the quarrying process. Flat edges that are nearly parallel enable masonry to be completed with the least amount of mortar. Additionally, each element’s distinct irregular shape produces a unique surface texture.
The following common and affordable rubble rocks are used to build foundations:
- limestone;
- slate;
- tuff;
- dolomite;
- sandstone; shell rock.
River cobblestones may also be used, although their rounded shape makes masonry more difficult and necessitates the use of formwork.
Types of missile foundations
Stone can be used to create foundations for columns and tape. The latter are only appropriate for light-frame homes, bathrooms, and residential buildings. The building’s corners and the points where the internal and external walls converge are marked with stone pillars that have been folded into shape. These pillars are connected by a strainer that serves as the foundation for the walls’ construction.
The best course of action for a capital residential building is to create a strip base. It is appropriate for structures with two or even three stories and a basement. Given that the bottle foundation doesn’t need to be reinforced and the quarry is close to the career, it’s less expensive and just as strong as a reinforced concrete monolith.
Tape foundation erection technology
Small crushed stone, sand, M500 or M400 brand cement, and various sized boots are needed for the stone tape device. The longest side should have stones ranging in length from 30 to 50 cm. You must divide the future tape’s volume by its weight of one m3 in order to determine the necessary volume of rubble. Depending on the size, shape, and density of the stones, it ranges from 1.65 to 1.8 tons.
For instance, 33–36 cubic meters of rubble will be needed for a foundation that is 100 meters long overall, 0.4 meters wide, and 1.5 meters high.
60 m³ = 100 x 0.4 x 1.5
60:1.8 (1.65) equals 33 (36)
The stones need to be sorted before work begins in order to avoid wasting time looking for an appropriate element later on.
Excavation
The rubble strip foundation’s cross-sectional profile must first be determined. Will it be a trapezoid or a rectangle?
On heaving and weak soils, the foundation is shaped like a trapezoid expanding downward. To accomplish this, dig a trench whose width is equal to the length of the trapezoid’s lower portion. Then, install ledge-supported masonry, narrowing each row as it goes until the width is the appropriate size. A foundation like that will be more dependable and sturdy.
If the soil is sufficiently dense, a regular rectangular strip can be laid out without the need for formwork. Here, the trench’s width and the foundation’s width are the same. To prevent soil particles from falling into the solution, if the soil is loose, make it larger and place formwork in the trench.
If rubble concrete is to be used for the walls of the ground floor or basement, then the entire area must first be marked with a pit, and formwork may need to be installed on the outside in addition to marking the perimeter and load-bearing walls.
Pillow device
The bottom of the trench is leveled, compacted, and covered with a layer of small crushed stone, sand, or ASG that is at least 15-20 cm high. The material is layered, spilled with water, and compacted to ensure a good compact of this layer.
Preparation for installation
We learned that the rubble foundation is made of concrete bound masonry. As a result, the same proportions of concrete are mixed for its construction as they are for pouring a monolithic strip foundation.
And any remaining dirt and debris are removed from the sorted stones. Washing them with water works best because it makes the concrete stick to a wet surface better.
Laying the first row
The first row is made up of the strongest and largest stones. They are placed on the cushion, pressing into the litter until they are in a stable position, with the long side of the cushion along the trench. Leave gaps of no more than 5 cm between related elements to ensure that their shapes match. If needed, break off pieces with a chisel and hammer or fill in gaps with smaller specimens.
Once the trench has been completely lined with one layer of debris, a solution is poured into it to fill in all of the spaces between the stones.
Laying subsequent rows
The following rows are placed over freshly mixed concrete, caulking the joints. The masonry will have protrusions, depressions, and voids because of the uneven shape and varying thicknesses of the stones. If at all possible, these should be removed by filling the spaces with crushed stone while using a sledgehammer and tamper. After pouring concrete over each laid row, the job is not finished.
The most uneven and ugly stones are used for the foundation’s subterranean portion, saving the more even and beautiful stones for the base’s construction. After reaching the ground, the work is done very carefully. Starting from the corners, arrange the row by choosing stones that are roughly the same height and shape. The row is laid with cords pulled between them to draw attention to them. While inferior rubble is used to fill the interior, special attention is paid to the exterior of the base.
Before the mortar dries, the joints between the façade stones are completed right away.
Final work
The final layer of reinforced concrete is created by pouring the mixture onto steel mesh or reinforcement bars that have been placed on the base in order to level and strengthen the upper plane of the foundation. After covering it with felt or film, the structure is left to stand for a month.
Step | Description |
1. Planning | Measure and mark the foundation area. |
2. Excavation | Dig a trench along the marked lines. |
3. Base Preparation | Level and compact the trench bottom. |
4. Formwork | Build wooden forms to hold the concrete. |
5. Reinforcement | Place steel bars for added strength. |
6. Rubble Layer | Lay rubble stones in the trench. |
7. Concrete Pouring | Pour concrete over the rubble layer. |
8. Curing | Allow the concrete to cure properly. |
9. Form Removal | Remove the forms after curing. |
10. Inspection | Check the foundation for stability. |
For many building projects, creating a strip foundation out of rubble is a useful and affordable solution. It offers a strong and long-lasting foundation that is suitable for a variety of building kinds. Utilizing locally sourced materials can help you cut expenses and lessen the project’s negative environmental effects.
From site preparation to concrete mixing and pouring, the process requires meticulous planning and execution. Its strength and longevity will be increased by making sure the drainage is adequate and by using steel rods to reinforce the foundation. Accurate measurement and leveling now will help avoid structural integrity problems later on.
Despite the seemingly difficult process, even do-it-yourself enthusiasts can complete this project with the correct resources and advice. Setting safety first and adhering to building codes are crucial if you want to make sure your foundation satisfies all requirements.
All things considered, a rubble strip foundation is a dependable option that blends conventional methods with contemporary techniques. You can construct a foundation that will withstand the test of time and support your building for many years to come with careful attention to detail and craftsmanship.