How to make a warm floor in a wooden house?

In a wooden house, a warm floor is a great way to improve energy efficiency and comfort. Keeping a comfortable temperature can be difficult in wooden homes, especially in the winter. Keeping your room cozy and welcoming can be achieved by installing a warm floor.

A few crucial decisions and actions must be made in order to give your floors some warmth. A variety of heating options are available to you, including water-based and electric mats. Every choice has advantages and can be customized to meet your financial and needs requirements.

We’ll walk you through every step of installing a warm floor in a wooden house in this guide. We’ll go over everything, from choosing the best materials to handling the installation, to give you a clear and doable plan for improving the warmth and comfort of your house.

What kind of heated floor is better to make in a private house

Numerous floor heating systems exist, including:

1. water;
2. electric;
3. film infrared.

Comparative research reveals that water-heated floors fall short of their rivals in two areas: any leak becomes a major issue, and significant monetary outlays are required during the building and maintenance phases.

But there are subtle differences.

• On a heated area of ​​more than 100 m2, in 30-35 years there will be a full return on investment (at current prices, and they can change greatly, all this will happen faster). The reason is low heat costs. Naturally, the larger the area of ​​the house, the faster the family budget feels the impact.
• Modern floor heating systems with liquid coolants rarely fail before 50 years. This is first. Secondly, wooden houses have a different heating installation technology. Repair here is difficult only if ceramic tiles are laid – you will have to break it, not dismantle it.

The articles provide a more thorough presentation of the comparative analysis:

• “Which underfloor heating is better – water or electric??";
• “Do-it-yourself warm floor on a balcony or loggia”.

From these same articles, we can infer the following general conclusions: an electric heated floor in a wooden house can be used for continuous heating of a small building or a portion of it, or as an additional form of heating, which the editors believe is ineffective. For instance, the second-floor balcony. Thus, water floor heating is still an option.

A wooden house and water-heated floors are incompatible, despite the opinions of many experts. It is simply impossible for joists and rough wooden flooring to support the weight of the cement-sand mortar used to fill the coolant circuit. The heat accumulator in the floor pie is removed by refusing to use the screed, which causes the house to cool down quickly when the heating is turned off.

In essence, they are correct. Only in the following circumstances can the screed be filled:

• rough wooden floor laid on the ground;
• for logs, a powerful beam measuring 20 x 22 cm or more was taken;
• Instead of wood, a concrete floor slab was used.

If not, you should find alternative solutions for installing water-heated floors in private homes. And they do exist: "dry" method floor heating systems. Their foundation is a metal plate composed of aluminum or galvanized steel. Their wings dissipate and accumulate heat, functioning as screeds. The pipes are arranged in unique grooves that resemble the Greek letter omega Ω (inverted) (end view).

Important: When buying them, keep in mind that there are plates available for every stage of pipe laying.

This technology can be used to lay the heating circuit:

• on the joists in the gaps between the floorboards;
• in a polystyrene plate with bosses;
• in special sets of slats – sold in construction stores.

Additionally, the foundation of the entire structure can be made independently: with a special apparatus, grooves for pipes are burned into the foam. When the contour can be laid in a "snail," this is the only way to set up a water-heated floor.

Every approach has advantages and disadvantages of its own. In general:

• light weight;
• absence of “wet” processes;
• high efficiency;
• versatility – can be installed in any room (bedroom, living room, kitchen, bathroom), under any floor covering (porcelain tiles, laminate tiles, linoleum, etc.).d).

This is how the floor pie appears in this instance:

• rough floor;
• thermal insulation material;
• scattering plates;
• circuit with circulating fluid;
• finishing floor covering.

Let’s take a closer look at the guidelines for installing a water-heated floor using the dry method. We recommend reading the work "Warm water floor under laminate" if you choose to use a screed. The technologies are exactly the same, and you can find all the answers you need there.

Materials and tools

In order to install a heated water floor in a private home using the dry method, the following supplies must be purchased:

• solid or liquid fuel boiler, gas (an electric boiler is inferior in economics to cable heated floors and infrared film);
• circulation electric pumps – due to the internal resistance of the pipes, the movement of the coolant due to the pressure difference in the system is impossible;
• expansion tank;
• Mayevsky tap for removing air when airing the heating system;
• distribution unit (collector);
• safety valve;
• pipes with special fasteners;
• fittings for polypropylene pipes or coupling-press for metal-plastic;
• antifreeze if no one lives in the house on a permanent basis during the winter;
• roll waterproofing in case of pipe leaks;
• foil vapor-permeable heat-insulating material. When purchasing simple insulation, you need food foil;
• metal diffuser made of galvanized steel or aluminum;

• polystyrene plate with bosses for laying pipes;
• set of wooden slats.

You can use a slightly different list of materials if you’d like to cut costs. However, as we go over the content, we will discuss this.

You cannot perform installation work with just your hands. You will require tools and equipment, which you can either purchase, rent, or borrow from friends and acquaintances. As per the technology, the collection consists of:

• level – allows you to carry out work in one plane;
• roulette – nothing without it. You will have to measure a lot;
• wood hacksaw – useful when laying pipes on beams or on a slatted system;
• grinder – will help in cutting pipes. Here she is unrivaled;
• set of wrenches;
• adjustable wrench. Sometimes they indicate that one adjustable wrench is enough. But that"s not true. Anyone who installed such a system with their own hands knows about this;
• soldering machine – required for cross-linked polyethylene pipes;
• Screwdriver Set.

Some experts carry a portable gas burner, which can sometimes greatly expedite the work’s progress.

Calculation of the number of pipes

The diameter of the pipes largely determines how many there are. Furthermore, not because less coolant liquid is required because more coolant liquid is pumped through a larger pipe. The pipe walls’ internal resistance sets a limit on the circuit’s size, which is the focal point. Put simply, this means that water cannot be pumped through an infinitely long pipe by a pump of any power.

The "locked loop" effect is always present. Therefore, an electric pump can only pump liquid 80–100 meters (depending on the pipe material) through a 16 mm pipe. The laying step is therefore influenced by the pipe size: a thinner pipe can be bent 360 degrees with a smaller radius. In this case, the laying step will be less. Naturally, this step is larger for thicker pipes.

Heating engineers suggested the following formula to determine the number of pipes, accounting for these subtleties:

N equals (M x 2) + S/L x 1.05, where:

• N is the number of pipes, m;
• S is the heated area, m2;
• L is the pipe laying step, m (the optimal distance between pipes is 20 cm);
• M is the distance from the circuit to the collector, m.;
• 1.05 — safety factor for radii and connections.

A simplified formula for the calculation can be used as follows: multiply the heated area by 5; SNiP calls for installing 5 meters of pipes for every 1 meter squared of space in the room.

When purchasing pipes, the second thing to think about is the material that makes them.

How to choose pipes for a water "warm floor" in a wooden house

The type of pipes affects heating efficiency. The following criteria must be met:

• must have an appropriate purpose;
• only two connections in each circuit – at the input and output;
• service life more than 50 years;
• optimal diameter;
• high-quality connecting fasteners;
• famous manufacturer.

Material

Without screed, pipes can be installed on a "warm floor":

• made of propylene. Affordable, they are joined by welding, which is more reliable than connections using fittings. The downside is the lack of flexibility, which results in a large laying step;

• cross-linked polyethylene (PE-X or XLPE). Among the advantages: resistance to water hammer, high mechanical strength – can withstand freezing of water, durability. Disadvantages include high price, lack of flexibility.

• metal-plastic. Characterized by high strength and flexibility, long service life. However, installation is complex and expensive;

• copper. A huge number of advantages with one disadvantage – prohibitive cost.

Diameter

Pipes with the following diameters are produced for "warm floors": 16*2, 18*2, 20*2, and 25*2. Each of them has advantages and disadvantages. Experience operating under various circumstances has demonstrated that, on the whole, the advantages and disadvantages are balanced.

As a result, you must pay attention to the turning radius because a pipe that is 20 mm in diameter will never fit in increments of 10 to 15 cm, which is required in small spaces. Therefore, experts advise purchasing 16mm water pipes for wooden houses. We specifically stress that pipes of the same diameter must be used in every circuit throughout the house.

Preparatory work

Installing a boiler, deciding on a plan to release excess pressure, adding water, and wall-mounting a pump and manifold are the first steps towards having a warm floor in a wooden house.

Additional planning is contingent upon the building’s condition. Residential: this section covers all preparatory work. Basic installation operations apply to new buildings. It is feasible to install a gas boiler in one of the rooms within a residential building. It is necessary to have a separate technical room (extension or basement) for solid fuel boilers and diesel boilers.

A home craftsman finds it more challenging to select a pressure relief plan. There are two types: open and closed loop. We observe that experts who have worked in construction for a long time are unable to list the benefits of an open system. However, these are the drawbacks:

• moving the expansion tank to the top of the building, which is the attic, requires its insulation;
• it is necessary to constantly monitor the coolant level and add it regularly;
• boiler pressure is limited;
• metal corrosion due to contact with oxygen.

Benefits of having a closed system:

• contact with air is completely limited – there are no oxidation processes (nothing rusts);
• expansion tanks compensate not only for boiler pressure, but also for expansion of the coolant under the influence of high temperatures;
• you can use antifreeze, which is important when people do not live in the house permanently;
• expanders can be placed anywhere, including next to the boiler;
• the boiling point of the coolant, due to increased pressure, shifts from +100 o C to +120 o C;
• high pressure makes pumps easier to operate.

In conclusion, you must install a closed system to compensate for water expansion if you don’t want issues to arise while the system is in use.

The pump and manifold are affixed to the wall at the subsequent phase. They are connected to the boiler. Larger diameter pipes are used to connect.

Preparatory work in a residential building

Prior to installing the heating system in a residential building, you must do the following:

1. remove furniture from the premises;
2. remove the baseboards;
3. remove old flooring;
4. inspect the wood in the subfloor;
5. replace rotten elements, additionally attach boards to the skull block, etc.d.;
6. seal the gaps between the boards and holes from fallen knots;
7. treat the wood with an antiseptic;
8. prime the surface;
9. carry out waterproofing work. Detailed instructions are in the work “Waterproofing a floor in a wooden house”.

Here are more specifics on getting the subfloor ready for more work.

Technology for installing water heated floors in a wooden house

Numerous pipe-laying technologies exist. Let’s examine each in more detail.

Uponor technology

Uponor installation is a very popular method because it’s inexpensive and easy to use. The idea is to place coniferous boards on logs with a 2 cm clearance, 20 mm thick and 15-20 cm wide (depending on the laying step). This opening is filled by the contour. The diagram below makes the technique easy to see.

There are some technological variations between the second floor and the ground floor. Pipe installation on the subfloor above the basement is one option to consider:

• skull blocks with a cross-section of 25 x 25 mm are nailed to the joists, flush with the lower edge;
• a subfloor made of boards 20-22 mm thick is attached to the nailed bars with self-tapping screws;

• waterproofing work is carried out using rolled waterproofing material. The membrane is laid over the lag, overlapping the walls;
• the seams are taped;
• basalt fiber insulation is laid between the joists. Its thickness should be 5 cm less than the height of the timber used for the logs – a ventilation gap is needed;
• the insulation is covered with polyethylene film – the access of steam to the insulating layer is blocked;
• boards are laid across the joists. Material thickness – 20 mm. The distance between the boards is 2 cm. In places where there will be a pipe loop, the board should be shorter and not reach the wall 15-20 cm. To avoid confusion, the boards are shortened one at a time. At the same time, a short board near one wall should be adjacent to the other almost closely – a 30 mm indentation for a technological gap in case the lumber swells from moisture;
• special metal diffuser plates with a recess for pipes are inserted into the slots;
• the contour is laid;
• the circuit pipes are connected to the manifold;
• the tightness of the system is checked;
• OSB, plywood or chipboard is laid on top of the pipes;
• finishing floor covering is being laid.

The sequence in which tasks are completed on the first and second floors is maintained. Here’s where it differs:

• the subfloor is nailed to the floor beams from below, without the use of cranial bars. These can be boards, OSB, plywood;
• steam and waterproofing films are swapped. Bottom: plastic film, type B, top: membrane.

Insulation is not always installed by craftsmen. It is not for the site editors to decide if this was the best course of action. Although I can’t speak from personal experience, I no longer trust online publications because they contain far too much false information.

Polystyrene system

This kind of water-heated floor installation replaces the boards with a unique polystyrene foam board that has bosses in the upper portion. This is how the step-by-step work course looks:

• The cranial bars are nailed to the lags on the ground floor;
• laid down the black floor;
• The floor is insulated between the lags with simultaneous steam and water protection of the insulation;
• A damper tape is attached along the perimeter of the walls – it is necessary to arrange a technological gap;

• A flat coating is laid on top of the lags. It can be GVL, chipboard, plywood, OSP. Screw the flooring with galvanized wood screws;
• Foam polystyrene slabs are laid on the prepared surface;
• Metal scatters are laid between the bosses. Many experts refuse to install them and put pipes directly on the slabs. Of course, there is a difference, but not as significant as adherents of metal plates speak and write about it;
• The contour from the pipe is laid in the plates.

The remaining steps are the same as in the earlier technique.

Alternative options

Local artisans, in an attempt to economize, provided a number of intriguing alternatives for installing water heating pipes.

• In a house without a basement, an insulating soil cushion is made – a layer of expanded clay 40-50 cm thick is poured, and a layer of sand is poured on top. All this is rammed, and then leveled. Foam blocks are simply laid on a sand cushion. They are glued together. A diagram of the contour layout is drawn on the resulting surface. With a grinder or chainsaw, 20 x 20 mm channels are cut for pipes. The contour is laid. Plywood, gypsum board, gypsum fiberboard, fiberboard or OSB are laid on top. The final floor covering is installed.
• Expanded polystyrene boards are taken. Channels for pipes are cut in them with a special device. Metal diffusers are replaced with food foil.

3.Cheap wooden kits for laying the contour are purchased. Here, foil is also used as a diffuser.

What kind of covering to choose for a warm floor

You can use any kind of floor covering when the heating system is installed correctly. As a result, we can suggest porcelain or tile for the bathroom and toilet because the home owner can easily install them. In the kitchen, quartz vinyl laminate or linoleum will look great.

Any material can be used for the finishing coating in residential buildings. Carpet is preferred in children’s rooms, but only if no allergy sufferers reside in the home. Little residents of the house enjoy spending time on such a floor.

Of course! The following is a brief summary of the article "How to make a warm floor in a wooden house?"

In addition to increasing comfort, installing a warm floor in a wooden house increases energy efficiency. You can minimize energy costs and efficiently distribute heat throughout your home by selecting the appropriate heating systems and insulation materials. To make sure your wooden floor can withstand the additional weight and heat, it is imperative to start with careful planning and preparation. To ensure even distribution and stop heat loss, this calls for adequate insulation under the floorboards.

Depending on your heating preferences and budget, you may want to choose hydronic systems or electric heating mats for your warm floor. While hydronic systems require careful installation planning and ultimately offer energy efficiency benefits, electric mats are more easily installed and better suited for smaller spaces. Whichever system you select, make sure it blends in with the distinctive features and structural integrity of your wooden home.

Moreover, routine maintenance and inspection are necessary to keep a warm floor. To guarantee maximum heating efficiency, keep an eye on the system’s performance, particularly during seasonal variations. Deal with any problems as soon as possible to save your wooden flooring from potential harm and to keep your home cozy all year round.

In summary, installing a warm floor in a wooden home improves comfort and energy efficiency and is a worthwhile investment. You can have a comfortable living area with the least amount of negative effects on the environment and ongoing expenses by combining careful planning, appropriate materials, and an appropriate heating system. Your warm floor will last for many years with proper installation and regular upkeep, turning your wooden home into a cozy haven throughout the year.

Creating a warm floor in a wooden house requires careful planning and the right materials to guarantee comfort and good insulation. This post walks you through the installation of a warm floor system by going over appropriate flooring materials, how to insulate, and heating choices designed specifically for wooden buildings. Whether you’re building from scratch or remodeling, knowing these procedures will help you create a comfortable and energy-efficient home.

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