A room can be transformed by painting the ceiling, giving it a modern, welcoming appearance. However, proper surface preparation is necessary before you can enjoy the outcome, particularly if you’re using water-based paint. This procedure guarantees a smooth and faultless finish by extending the paint’s adhesion and durability.
First, make sure the space is clear and cover any furniture and floors with plastic sheeting or drop cloths. This shields your possessions from paint spatters and dust. To prevent dust and debris from getting into your eyes and lungs, always wear protective gear, such as goggles and a mask.
Examining the ceiling for any holes, cracks, or stains is the next step. After filler has dried, use sandpaper to smooth out any imperfections. This evens out the surface so that paint will stick to it. Use a stain-blocking primer if there are any smoke or water damage stains to stop them from bleed through the fresh paint.
It’s imperative that the ceiling be cleaned. Dust, cobwebs, and grease can all be removed with a damp sponge or cloth. Maintaining a clean surface is essential for optimal paint adhesion and a smooth appearance. Before proceeding to the following steps, let the ceiling completely dry.
After the ceiling has dried and cleaned, prime it. This step is especially crucial if the ceiling has never been painted before or if you’re painting over a dark color. The primer improves paint adhesion by creating a consistent base.
Your ceiling is prepared for the water-based paint once the primer has dried. When the proper preparation techniques are used, painting goes more smoothly and produces a more polished finish. A gorgeous painted ceiling can be achieved with a little perseverance and attention to detail, which will improve the overall appearance of your room.
- Preparing a concrete ceiling
- Why preparatory work is necessary
- Stages of preparatory work
- Required materials and tools
- Preparing the premises
- Surface cleaning
- Ceiling repair
- Primer
- Surface reinforcement
- Putty
- Grinding
- Preparation of the ceiling from gypsum board
- Video on the topic
- painting over old paint / painting a ceiling over old paint / painting over old paint
- Preparing the ceiling for painting with water-based paint. Advantages over suspended ceilings
- Ceiling repair. Cleaning, priming, plastering, puttying and painting the ceiling
- Preparing the ceiling for painting. #primer #plaster #putty #painting #ceiling #matteceiling
Preparing a concrete ceiling
It appears that painting the ceiling is easy and quick, requiring little effort at all. This is exactly what many people do: they begin painting over previously applied paint without considering the preparatory step. The ceiling is painted white as a result.
The excellence of this work, however, outweighs the expense of rewalling and replacing the floor; it resembles a woman in a stunning dress with flawless makeup but no hairstyle.
Why preparatory work is necessary
There are various reasons why the ceiling painting sequence is broken:
- lack of knowledge of work technology;
- saving time;
- reluctance to stir up dirt;
- basic laziness.
Painting a ceiling over a previously applied paint layer wets the paint, which causes it to become less solid and flake off the ceiling in different areas. Both large patches and penny-sized ones can be found there. Everything needs to be taken out, whether it’s puttyed or repainted.
Regardless of the owners’ best efforts to conceal this flaw, it will remain apparent for years until the paint turns yellow, either in front of a window or under an electric light source. We must also remember that volatile fats from the kitchen can end up on the ceiling. When you paint over them, the ceiling gets darker very quickly, and the paint starts to chip in some areas.
It takes multiple coats of paint to cover rusty or dark areas, and these layers are clearly visible in daylight. Therefore, the owners can paint without doing any prep work if they are not confused by the various paint layers that stand out at the top of the room.
You should adhere to the directions if you want the repair job to be finished with a gorgeous ceiling. How should a ceiling be painted before using water-based paint?
Stages of preparatory work
Preparation accounts for the majority of the labor costs associated with painting the ceiling. The location of the painting determines both its quantity and effort:
- in a new building with a virgin concrete floor and a finger-sized seam between the panels;
- in a lived-in apartment, where it is necessary to remove the old layer of paint or wallpaper, as well as remove all kinds of stains;
- in a wooden house with a whitewashed ceiling;
- in an apartment or house with a plasterboard ceiling.
There is a precise order of steps to follow when priming the ceiling for water-based paint application, regardless of the working environment:
- the old layer of paint (wallpaper) is removed, traces of rust and discoloration are removed;
- the floors are inspected and defects are identified;
- chips and peeling are removed, small cracks are repaired;
- problem areas are repaired;
- the ceiling is primed;
- the surface is completely putty (when using universal putty, once is enough, specialized putty – starting and finishing – twice);
- the dried putty is sanded;
- in places where the putty has shrinked, the process is repeated.
Be advised that large deviations from the horizontal will require either plastering the ceiling or using suspended ceiling systems composed of plasterboard (GCR).
Required materials and tools
Buying the required supplies and outfitting the technological process with tools and accessories is the first step in preparing the ceiling for hand painting.
Materials. In order to do preliminary work, you must purchase:
- Any primer of deep penetration for concrete under gypsum ("concrete contact", Ceresit ST 17, etc.);
- a repair solution for concrete (if necessary to close the overlap defects if necessary), you can use cement remaining after plastering;
- Ready -made starting gypsum putty of any company (Knauf, Vetonit, Ceresit);
- finished finish putty of the same manufacturers;
Take note: a universal gypsum mixture can be used in place of starting and finishing putty.
- Maular canvas "Web" based on fiberglass;
- a sickle for setting a junction between panels in a new building;
- Glue for fiberglass (holds the wallpaper glue for glass, for example, Quelyd, Bostik-70, Goldbastik, etc.);
- sandpaper or special sponge with sandpaper for grinding putty;
- plastic film or special construction tarpaulin to protect the floor, walls and windows from dust, dirt and paint during painting.
Water must also be available since it will be required to remove old paint or wallpaper.
Equipment and accoutrements. To complete the task, you don’t need to purchase an entire set of tools. The family budget will be spared because there is stuff in the pantry or at the dacha, stuff that can be found from friends, and some that can just be rented. The collection ought to include:
- a stepladder, but if possible, it’s better to use a sawhorse or a strong table – it’s much more convenient to work with them;
- a set of spatulas (necessarily wide, 15-20 cm, and narrow, 5-7 cm);
- construction ditch (bath) for primer;
- paint roller (brush, spray) for soaking the old layer of paint or wallpaper and applying a primer;
- electric drill with a set of attachments (perforator);
- metal brush;
- hammer;
- chisel;
- construction knife;
- flashlight – ideally highlights all the unevenness of the ceiling.
You also need glasses and work attire, such as jeans and an old T-shirt. You need to wear a respirator when using a grinder.
Preparing the premises
Building codes require that repairs be made from top to bottom, starting with the ceiling and working down to the walls and floor. In accordance with Russian custom, apartment renovations should be done from the floor up to the ceiling. Thus, you should take down the lamps, turn off the room’s electricity, and remove the furniture before painting the ceiling.
In the event that moving the wardrobe or sofa to a different room is not feasible, they are securely wrapped in plastic wrap and taped shut. New homes are finishing up their window and door installations.
Because cleaning a ceiling is a messy and dusty task, you should shield the surrounding rooms, walls, floor, and windows from the residue left by sanding away old paint (wallpaper) and putty particles.
To do this, plastic film is used to cover the walls, windows, and doors, and cardboard from packaging boxes or construction tarpaulin is used to cover the floor. Construction tape is used to secure the film to the wall at both the top and bottom (plain tape can damage the wallpaper).
The doorway is covered with a curtain to create a passageway without allowing dust to enter the hallway.
Surface cleaning
In newly constructed apartments or houses, there isn’t a first phase of preparation work; instead, the second stage of work, which involves finding and fixing defects, starts right away. The most unpleasant task when renovating a ceiling is removing previous finishes such as polystyrene tiles, wallpaper, water-based or acrylic paint, and lime whitening.
Paint with a water base. Twice, every thirty minutes, the old paint layer is thoroughly moistened with warm, soapy water. Some experts recommend creating a draft for ten to fifteen minutes after rewetting, which will cause the paint to peel off in many areas on its own. A spatula is used to eliminate residues.
Five to ten minutes after rewetting, if there is no ventilation, the water-emulsion layer starts to come off. Sponges are also used to moisten areas where paint is difficult to remove or does not lend itself to painting. The work is carried out elsewhere, and after they have swelled, challenging areas are revisited.
Alternatively, you can use specialized drill, grinder, or hammer drill attachments to mechanically remove the paint layer. Personal protective equipment is necessary in this situation, though, and you should be ready to deal with dust in areas where it shouldn’t have been by definition. Using a wire brush, you must manually go over the ceiling once more after using a power tool to treat the surface.
After the paint is removed, the ceiling is thoroughly cleaned, and the water needs to be changed on a regular basis.
Paint in acrylic. Among the hardest kinds of coatings to remove:
- with the mechanical method, using electrical devices, there is a lot of dust;
- using special removers for acrylic paint (Aqua-Color, VX-90000) is harmful to health – they are very toxic.
When employing chemicals, the paint is scraped off with a spatula, and just like in the first instance, the ceiling is then painted with a metal brush and cleaned.
With a hammer and chisel, acrylic paint can be removed in a third method. That takes a lot of time and work, though. This is the safest and cleanest method, if you have the time.
For reference, the mechanical approach is preferred in recent regulatory and reference literature due to numerous cases of wash-related poisoning.
Lime wash. Water can be used to remove lime for a long time, or you can apply homemade paste over the entire surface of the ceiling for a tried-and-true method. The recipe is straightforward: a few tablespoons of flour or potato starch (which can be substituted) are whisked into cold water and then added to one liter of boiling water.
Take extra care to stir to prevent lumps, then allow to cool. Next, use a brush to apply it to the ceiling; the lime and hardened glue can be easily removed with a spatula. The ceiling surface is cleaned, just like in earlier instances.
Wall covering. Paper wallpaper is often applied with adhesive to the ceiling. Such finishing is easily removed: after wetting the ceiling, the wallpaper is scraped off by hand with a spatula. Use a wire brush or spatula to scrape off the remaining trellis pieces.
A wet sponge is used to remove the glue. Heating the water to between 40 and 50 degrees will speed up the process. Regular water changes are required.
Tiles made of plastic. With a spatula, this kind of ornamental ceiling covering can be taken off. It is a labor-intensive process that takes time to complete. When using a thin spatula on tiles that are difficult to work with, a hammer and chisel (chisel) work well together. Glue residue is mechanically eliminated using an electric drill fitted with a specialized attachment. Following this, the ceiling is manually cleaned using a metal brush and then washed, just like in earlier instances.
Rust and grimy stains removed. Eliminating any kind of contamination is not a very difficult process:
- oily stains are removed with a 2-3% solution of hydrochloric acid – applied with a brush several times to the stain, after which it is washed off generously;
- rusty stains can be removed: copper sulfate (10%); a slurry of lime, denatured alcohol (alcohol) and water; a mixture of lime and drying oil; sodium hypochlorite (the well-known cleaning agent “Belizna”);
- efflorescence is cleaned with a wire brush.
To guarantee a smooth, expert finish when painting a ceiling with water-based paint, there are a few essential steps to follow. First, use filler to fix any cracks or holes and scrape off any old paint, dirt, or debris. After giving the surface a thorough cleaning to get rid of any dust, sand it to give it an even texture. Apply a primer to the ceiling after it has dried and cleaned to improve paint adhesion and hide any stains or discolorations. Your ceiling will be ready for a brand-new, faultless coat of water-based paint after these preparations.
Ceiling repair
The seam between the floor panels needs to be sealed first in a newly constructed apartment. After adhering serpyanka to it, use a thin spatula to seal the gap with putty (gypsum mortar flows through the mesh with ease). Apply a second layer of putty with a small spatula after it has dried and shrunk significantly.
If there hasn’t been much shrinkage, apply a thin layer of gypsum to the serpyanka using a wide spatula. Given that the ceiling will be entirely covered in putty, the fiberglass’s (serpyanka) translucency is permitted after a wide spatula is passed over the surface.
Important: avoid using putty with a gypsum base in the restroom. Cement or polymer mortar is the better option in this case.
Next, the concrete floors are examined for the presence of microcracks, peeling, chips, and shells. This is the starting point for residential apartment floor repairs.
Using a hammer and chisel, any concrete damage caused by cement stone peeling is repaired. Large cracks are reinforced with self-tapping screws, and microcracks expand so that repair mortar can be rubbed into them. This is accomplished by using a grinder to cut grooves across them that are roughly 10 cm long and 15-20 mm deep, spaced 3-5 cm apart.
"Cement laitance" is created if cement is present. The 2:1 ratio of water to cement grade M400 makes up the solution. This mixture is applied to all damaged areas in order to create an adhesive film by saturating the concrete with moisture. Until the ceiling is entirely covered in moisture, the treatment must be applied multiple times.
Use a brush to gently massage the milk into the surface if the wetting process doesn’t go well. This holds particular significance for microcracks. Next, apply a repair solution consisting of cement, sand, and PVA glue in a 1:3:1 ratio with three parts water, or "wet on wet" (onto the cement milk that hasn’t dried yet).
Although repairs are made "wet on dry," that is, over a fully dry primer layer, deep penetration primers are also rubbed into microcracks. Either use a mortar made of cement and sand, or purchase a tubed ready-made solution.
Primer
Priming the surface is the next step in the preparation process. The procedure is required. You can consider whether this work is feasible on the walls or the floor; on the ceiling, putty will adhere very poorly and may even start to fall off right away due to the moisture from the water-based emulsion.
After the repair solution has dried completely, work can start. The primer is applied evenly across the ceiling using a roller with an extended handle. A brush is used to clean the areas where the heating pipes pass and the intersections between the ceiling and the walls.
After roughly 30 minutes, the second layer can be applied without having to wait for the first layer to dry. They also apply putty to a perfectly dry surface.
The following primers are typically used by professionals:
- Ceresit ST 17 – deep penetration primer. Located in the highest price segment. However, the price matches the quality. It provides the best adhesion between dissimilar materials: concrete and gypsum;
- GF-012. General purpose primer. Binds dust, increases adhesion between the base of the ceiling and the putty, reduces the suction of moisture from the putty solution by concrete;
- Concentrate Hydroscope. Used in the bathroom, kitchen and toilet – has waterproofing properties.
Surface reinforcement
Should a substantial quantity of microcracks be present on the ceiling’s surface, the ceiling is strengthened. Keep in mind that such work is typically not done in normal circumstances. However, this is the situation where "butter doesn’t spoil porridge." It’s rapid and reasonably priced.
If a ceiling has to be strengthened, how should it be painted? The following process for completing the work is outlined in the instructions:
- Using a roller with an elongated handle, so as not to climb a stepladder, glue for glass wallpaper is applied in an even layer to the size of the fiberglass (in extreme cases, special glue can be replaced with PVA);
- The “web” is applied to the glue and pressed tightly against the surface of the ceiling in several places;
- Using a wide spatula, moving along and across the canvas, it is pressed into the glue over the entire surface of the ceiling (no swelling or bubbles should remain);
- The next area is smeared;
- Fiberglass is glued with an overlap of 2-3 cm with the previous canvas;
- The second web of the “web” is also pressed tightly against the ceiling;
- Take a rule or a long metal ruler and apply it in the middle of the overlap. Using a construction knife, both canvases are carefully cut along the entire length, resulting in a perfect seam between the two “webs” (the trimmings are removed, and the joint is again pressed against the ceiling with a spatula);
- Another layer of glue is applied to the pasted surface.
Putty
You can purchase a dry mixture or use a ready-made solution in buckets for putty. In this scenario, you will need to use a bucket mixer (a drill or hammer drill with a special attachment) to make the putty yourself. It is imperative that the directions on the packaging be followed.
It’s important to start with small batches because the solution sets quickly. The amount of prepared solution rises with skill development.
Because of the slight price difference between the dry mixture and the ready-made solution, ready-to-use putty is bought for small spaces, like apartments, and a dry mixture is purchased for large processing areas.
The platform that the work will be done from has a major impact on both the speed and quality of the work. If it’s a stepladder, you’ll have to get down and rearrange it frequently, which will cause you inconvenience. Furthermore, it is very annoying to have to monitor the putty layer’s quality. Use a table or a temporary, portable platform to exit.
Whenever working independently, it is preferable to utilize a general solution. This particular ceiling only needs to be puttyed once; starting putty and finishing putty don’t need to be applied in that order. Of course, you’ll only have to sand once.
Work that is properly organized is completed in the following order:
- the voids and cavities that remain after the repair are sealed (if this is done in one pass, the solution will shrink) and only after drying the main work is carried out;
- use a narrow spatula to apply the solution onto a wide one and bring it to the ceiling at an angle;
- by moving towards you, the mixture is applied to its surface, while the layer of putty being laid must be perpendicular to the primer;
- after the first pass, the solution is fed with a narrow spatula to the edge of a wide tool and the operation is repeated, while the forces on the spatula must be controlled and not allowed to fluctuate significantly;
Just so you know, every master applies putty to the ceiling in a different way. Some use a wide spatula, some a narrow one, and some use different tools entirely for this.
- after laying a portion of the solution, the quality of the work is checked, for this you need to look at the putty area against the light, but it is even more effective if the newly putty area is illuminated with a flashlight – in this case, the smallest errors are clearly visible;
- If clumps of the mixture or differences in height are detected, everything is leveled with a spatula.
The applied layer’s thickness shouldn’t be more than two millimeters. After the primary surface has been completed, corners are sealed independently.
Grinding
Grinding the putty is the last step of the process that gives you a flawlessly smooth surface ready for painting. Either a grinder or manual labor is used.
Experts manually grind "under the light" (a basic flashlight will do the same thing). It illuminates so you can see even the smallest defects that are removed during grinding. Small flaws can be eliminated with no sandpaper, while larger ones can be eliminated with a mesh grater.
The diagram makes it evident that the work is done in circular motions from wall to wall. It is critical to keep an eye on the caliber of the work at all times. The process is greatly simplified by the machine method. Everything else is carried out in the same manner as when grinding by hand.
The ceiling is primed once more prior to painting.
Preparation of the ceiling from gypsum board
Painting a suspended ceiling made of gypsum board requires different preparation than painting a concrete floor. How should a gypsum ceiling be painted properly? It all depends on whether the suspended structure that will be repaired or if a freshly installed ceiling will be dyed.
On the newly installed suspended ceiling, the following tasks are completed:
- Use a construction knife to open the joints of plasterboard sheets (3-4 mm of plasterboard is cut from each edge at an angle of 45 degrees);
- the seams and screw heads are puttied (the work is performed in the same sequence as sealing the joint between concrete floors, which can be seen above);
- the surface of the drywall is primed;
- after the primer dries, it is puttied;
- Finally sanded and primed again.
Sanding, priming, and cleaning the plasterboard ceiling to remove any leftover water-based paint are steps in the painting preparation process. Since putty was applied underneath the previous finishing coat, the step of applying putty is eliminated in this instance, and sanding only removes the old adhesive mass.
Old paint can be removed mechanically or with a wash, just like from a concrete base. The most important thing is to avoid damaging the drywall by not applying excessive pressure to the ceiling. But you can’t wet the wallpaper because you’ll wet the cardboard that contains the plaster. Here, things are done differently: they purchase inexpensive wallpaper adhesive, thin it to a creamy consistency, and then apply it to the ceiling.
The wallpaper will eventually swell and come off the drywall with ease. Prime the ceiling before painting it.
Step | Description |
1. Clean the ceiling | Remove dust, cobwebs, and any grease stains to ensure the paint adheres properly. |
2. Repair any damage | Fill cracks and holes with a suitable filler, then sand smooth. |
3. Sand the surface | Lightly sand the entire ceiling to create a smooth, even surface for painting. |
4. Prime the ceiling | Apply a primer to seal the surface and improve paint adhesion. |
5. Protect the area | Cover floors, furniture, and walls with drop cloths or plastic sheeting to prevent paint splatters. |
6. Stir the paint | Mix the water-based paint thoroughly to ensure an even color and consistency. |
7. Apply the paint | Use a roller for large areas and a brush for edges and corners. Apply in thin, even coats. |
Although it involves close attention to detail, setting up a ceiling for water-based paint application can be successfully completed with the correct procedures. Make sure the surface is dust- and debris-free before proceeding. Often, all that’s needed to remove stubborn stains or grime is a quick wipe down with a damp cloth. However, a mild detergent solution may be necessary. Before proceeding to the next step, make sure the ceiling has had enough time to dry completely.
Next, look for any imperfections, holes, or cracks in the ceiling. Patch up these areas with a suitable filler, then use a putty knife to smooth it out for a seamless finish. To create a smooth, even surface, sand the filled areas as well as any rough spots on the ceiling after the filler has dried. Recall that the paint will adhere better and the finished product will look more professional on a smoother surface.
Using a primer is a crucial step that you shouldn’t omit. A superior primer will improve paint adhesion and yield a more consistent finish. In order to ensure that your water-based paint applies evenly and has the best possible appearance, it can also aid in covering any stains or discolorations on the ceiling. Before you begin painting, let the primer completely dry in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
Finally, spend some time covering the floors and furniture in your room with plastic sheeting or drop cloths to prevent paint splatters. To ensure clean lines, mask off any edges where the ceiling meets the walls with painter’s tape. Now that you’ve finished these preparations, you can confidently begin painting your ceiling with water-based paint, knowing that the foundation will be set for a stunning, long-lasting result.