A smooth and durable wall finish is ensured by preparing your walls for wallpapering. In addition to improving the finished look, careful preparation helps the wallpaper stick firmly and avoids problems down the road like peeling or bubbling.
To start, give the walls a thorough cleaning to get rid of any grease, dust, or dirt. To clean the surface, use a damp sponge or cloth soaked in a light detergent solution. Pay close attention to places where dirt tends to collect, such as baseboards, corners, and areas close to light switches.
Examine the walls for flaws like holes, cracks, or uneven surfaces after cleaning. Using a putty knife to smooth it out, use an appropriate filler or spackling compound to fill in larger holes and cracks. After the filler dries, sand down any rough areas to produce a smooth, even surface.
The walls may then benefit from a coat of primer, particularly if they have recently been painted or plastered. A primer ensures a stronger bond and lowers the likelihood of the wallpaper peeling over time by improving adhesion and encouraging even absorption of the wallpaper paste.
Lastly, make sure the walls are completely dry and free of any dust or sanding debris before applying the wallpaper. By following these preparatory steps, you’ll not only simplify the wallpapering process but also achieve a polished finish that will improve the room’s overall appearance.
Step | Description |
1. Clean the Walls | Remove old wallpaper, paint, or any other coverings. Clean the surface to get rid of dust and debris. |
2. Repair Imperfections | Fill in any holes, cracks, or dents with spackle or filler. Sand the areas smoothly after they dry. |
3. Prime the Walls | Apply a primer to ensure better adhesion of the wallpaper. This also helps to cover any stains or discolorations. |
4. Smooth the Surface | Use sandpaper to lightly sand the entire wall, creating a smooth and even surface for the wallpaper to adhere to. |
5. Remove Dust | Wipe the walls with a damp cloth to remove any sanding dust. Let the walls dry completely before applying wallpaper. |
- Reasons for changing wall gluing technology
- Stages of preparing walls for taping
- Materials and tools
- Preparatory work
- Wall cleaning
- Wallpaper
- Paint
- How to repair cracks
- Alignment with plastering
- How to primer walls
- Purrender of the wall
- Leveling with plasterboard
- Primer before wallpaper
- The nuances of preparing a wall for different types of wallpaper
- Liquid wallpaper
- Non-woven wallpaper
- Photo wallpaper
- Conclusion
- Video on the topic
- MASTER CLASS: How to properly prepare walls for wallpapering
- How to prepare walls for wallpapering
- Removing old paper wallpaper and preparing walls for wallpaper
Reasons for changing wall gluing technology
Three reasons necessitate preparatory work when covering walls with trellises:
- The use of new types of wall materials (foam concrete, gas silicate, etc.) for construction.d.), which do not hold trellises on their surface without preliminary preparation of the canvas;
- Pasting in some cases a smooth surface on which the glue does not hold the wallpaper well;
- Production of heavy or very thin types of wallpaper. In the first case, problems arise when creating conditions for strong adhesion between the wall surface and the wallpaper; in the second, all defects of the surface being pasted immediately catch the eye, since modern trellises do not hide them, but stick out.
In this sense, the following issues need to be resolved when preparing walls:
- Creating good adhesion between wallpaper glue and wall material. There are two problems here: the porosity of many building materials and the smooth surface of concrete, glass, tiles, etc.d. In the first case, approximately 50% of the wallpaper area is in contact with the wall, which leads to constant peeling of the wallpaper and unraveling of the seams. During the preparatory work, the pores are stopped, a continuous film of primer is created on the surface of the wall material, ensuring ideal adhesion between the wall and the adhesive applied to the trellises. In the second case, it is necessary to create a good clutch of wallpaper with the wall – the problem is solved by applying special primers.
- Alignment of walls for wallpaper. Modern wallpaper, and thin and dense, do not hide even minor irregularities of the walls. This is especially noticeable in daylight. Therefore, the elimination of wall defects is one of the most important tasks in the framework of preparatory work.
- The fight against mold and fungus. This, at first glance, the secondary task in reality helps to solve the eternal problem of plaster – the appearance of microorganisms in cracks and cracks in wet rooms and on the walls – the cold and moisture coming from the street and moisture create ideal conditions for the growth and propagation of mold and various types of fungi.
The range of tasks involved in getting walls ready for wallpapering divides the detailed instructions for the entire technological process into discrete steps: leveling, repairing, and preparing walls.
Stages of preparing walls for taping
How should walls be ready for wallpapering? In order to prepare walls for gluing, multiple technological processes must be completed in order.
- The preparatory stage that completes construction and installation work in a new building. There must be: the work of laying the floor screed has been completed; electrical wiring completed; door (window) frame installed; built-in furniture installed.
- Old wallpaper and paint are removed from the walls, nails and screws are removed.
- The quality of old plaster is checked by tapping with a hammer. When dull sounds appear, the wall is cleared of the plaster layer.
- Chips, peelings are repaired, microcracks are repaired.
- The walls are washed if necessary (oil stains, soot, dirt are washed off).
- A primer is applied to create good adhesion between the wall and the plaster layer.
- Beacons are exhibited.
- The walls are plastered with cement-sand mortar.
- The applied plaster layer is primed and puttyed.
- The final stage of preparation is priming the surface for gluing with trellises.
Materials and tools
Whether a finisher is a novice or a seasoned builder, he needs a range of instruments and equipment to complete the preliminary work. The kind of covering to be removed determines their set: Paint, plaster, or trellises; type of wall:
- brick;
- concrete;
- wooden;
- plasterboard, etc.d.
A comprehensive inventory of all the items required for the repair does not need to be provided because the owner of a home or apartment who performs repairs on their own needs tools and materials for a particular scenario.
The list of required materials and tools will be provided prior to the description of each type of work so that it can be easily navigated. All you need to have on hand at all times is a stepladder or movable platform (horses). As such, there will be no more discussion about this gadget.
Preparatory work
The following tasks should be completed in order when prepping walls for wallpaper:
- free the walls from old finishing and, if necessary, from plaster;
- repair cracks, chips, fill masonry joints for plaster;
- level the wall surface with plaster or drywall;
- apply primer under the pasting.
Wall cleaning
Cleaning the walls of any outdated wallpaper, paint, or plaster is the first step in hand-painting or wallpapering a wall. Every sort of technological operation, however, has appropriate procedures and approaches of its own. Let’s take a closer look at them.
Wallpaper
How can outdated wallpaper be removed? To accomplish this, you’ll need:
1. Remove all furniture from the walls; either move it to the center of the space or take it with you and cover it with polyethylene film.
2. Remove switches and outlets from the room that needs to be repaired and turn off the electricity.
3. Assemble the gear and instruments required:
- paint roller (can be used), sponge or rags;
- set of spatulas;
- knife (kitchen or construction);
- bucket for hot water;
- "wallpaper tiger";
- metal brush;
- iron;
- a piece of fabric (old T-shirt, towel);
- garbage bags;
- individual protection means.
4. If you don’t already have it at home, buy extra:
- laundry soap – a quarter of a piece ground into shavings (in a bucket of warm water) will speed up the process of removing wallpaper;
- fabric softener – one capful of product will give an effect similar to ¼ bar of soap;
- table vinegar (9%) – 5 tbsp. spoons in a bucket of hot water will help you quickly and easily clean the walls of old trellises;
- MK wallpaper glue – diluted to the consistency of kefir (5 times more water than indicated on the package) quickly softens wallpaper, indispensable when removing wallpaper from drywall;
- special compositions – can be bought in liquid or dry form, allow you to remove all types and types of wallpaper from the walls, regardless of the type of glue with which they were glued (see. photo).
The types of glue and wallpaper—paper, non-woven, or vinyl—have a major impact on the techniques for removing trellises. For instance, warm or hot water is always used for modified starch (MS) glue; however, different techniques are used for paper wallpaper, non-woven materials, and vinyl. The work will not take long if you know a few little secrets.
How can I swiftly remove old wallpaper that has been glued to a wall using MK glue? The process is very easy for trellises that have been hanging on the wall for more than eight years. Using a knife, separate wallpaper sections that are loose from the wall are cut. You insert a thin spatula into the cracks that result.
The wallpaper sheet pulls slowly in the direction of itself; if it moves faster, the aging process will cause the paper to tear. Using a knife or spatula blade, scrape off the remaining trellises on the wall. If heated water is applied to these wall sections and the paper and glue are allowed to soften for approximately 20 minutes, the process can be expedited.
How can paper wallpaper be removed from walls after minimal use? Warm water is used to moisten trellises that have been hanging for less than four years. For these uses, a sponge or roller works well.
Usually, multiple canvases are worked on rather than the full wall. Four to five wallpaper sheets are soaked, then "forgotten" for twenty minutes. This is sufficient to cause the paper to get saturated with water and the glue, which quickly turns liquid due to the starch. After that, a spatula and knife are used to remove the wallpaper.
Nevertheless, vinyl trellises are totally inappropriate for this process because the wallpaper’s top layer prevents moisture from penetrating. So how can vinyl wallpaper be swiftly removed from a wall? Here, there are two approaches.
- Use a knife to pick up the vinyl layer and tear it off the paper base. Then proceed in the same way as with paper wallpaper – warm water, spatula and knife.
- Use a knife to make cuts on the trellises (you can use a “wallpaper tiger”) and moisten them. Penetrating under the vinyl film, water soaks the glue and paper, after which the wallpaper easily peels off.
Important: Professionals advise washing the walls several times with clean, hot water after removing the wallpaper. In actuality, this is hardly ever completed. The wallpaper’s service life showed no appreciable variations.
While removing paper wallpaper from drywall, there are a few peculiarities to consider. This eliminates the need for soaking altogether because water ruins the plaster in addition to softening the glue and trellises. Liquid wallpaper adhesive will come in handy here.
It is applied to the trellises after being greatly diluted with water (four to five times more than suggested by the instructions). This kind of composition wets the gypsum board cardboard with water, but not to the point where it completely saturates the paper web and the glue used to attach the trellises. After 20 to 30 minutes, you can remove the sheets using a spatula and knife. These techniques don’t work well with PVA, MC, or CMC glue.
How can wallpaper be swiftly removed from walls that have been glued with PVA and contemporary, high-quality glues? The most problematic glue is PVA. The wallpaper needs to be taken off first, followed by the glue itself.
Warm, soapy water treatment applied to water-permeable trellises. This is accomplished by crushing a piece of laundry soap, diluting it with four liters of water, heating it to a boil, and then applying it to the wall right away with a roller. The trellises can be easily removed after 15 to 20 minutes.
Only a portion of the wall is treated, not the whole wall. The wall is cleaned and any leftover adhesive is scraped off using a metal brush or spatula after the wet wallpaper has been removed. After that, the solution is heated, and the same procedure is followed.
For wallpaper that repels water, mix fabric softener into a solution. Add 0.3 liters of conditioner to a bucket of water for single-layer trellises; double the amount of detergent for double-layer trellises.
- approximately 2 m2 of wallpaper is wetted;
- after 10 minutes the next 2 m 2 walls are wetted;
- after 20 minutes, the wallpaper is removed in the place where the initial soaking was carried out;
- the remaining glue is scraped off with a wire brush;
- the next section (2 m2) is wetted, etc.d.
MC and CMC glue can be removed with specific removers or by steaming the material.
Although not every home has one, professional builders use steam generators or steam cleaners. Towels made of any natural material without artificial additives and an iron will come in handy.
- the fabric is lowered into the water, then twisted not very much;
- the iron warms up to maximum temperature – an extension cord is needed here to connect to electricity from another room;
- the towel is applied to the wallpaper, and, pressing firmly, it is ironed – 5-6 times;
- the trellises are scraped off from the steamed area with a spatula.
Until the wallpaper is entirely removed from the walls, this process is repeated. The work is laborious and takes a long time. However, in reality, the best choice is.
Special washes that are available in jelly or powder form can expedite the process. The products’ makers assert that there is no risk to the residents’ health when using them in their apartments. Still, using gloves when working is preferable.
The solution is made in compliance with the packaging’s instructions. applied using a roller to the wall. Using a knife or a "wallpaper tiger," perforation must be applied to waterproof wallpaper. The wallpaper sheets will automatically peel off the wall once washers have had the adhesive mass dissolved for two to three hours.
Glass wallpaper can only be removed with washes; liquid and photo wallpaper can be removed using any of the methods mentioned above. There’s a little trick to removing glass wallpaper: you have to pull the wallpaper from top to bottom, one sheet at a time.
Paint
It is not possible to apply basic putty or perform plastering on a painted wall because paint does not adhere to gypsum or cement. It needs to be taken out as a result.
Note: applying wallpaper is not impeded by painting the wall. As stated in the article "Is it possible to glue wallpaper onto paint?", it is frequently possible to glue the trellises straight onto the paint layer.
In order to remove the paint layer from the wall, you need:
- personal protective equipment;
- blowtorch;
- grinder;
- axe;
- various attachments for a hammer drill or grinder;
- putty knife;
- chisel;
- knife;
- paint remover;
- brush.
Paint can be removed by using the instruments mentioned above:
- using chemistry – special solutions (washes);
- heating the surface of the walls – thermal method;
- mechanically – the paint layer is removed with power tools.
Chemical method based on the ability of certain chemical mixtures to dissolve all paint types, such as "Prestige" gel and "Antikras" remover. In which case:
- the drugs are quite expensive;
- remove only one layer – with multiple painting, you will have to dissolve each layer separately;
- a pungent odor lingers in the room for a long time;
- Remnants of flushes should absolutely not be flushed down the toilet – special disposal is required;
- the worker must be dressed in a chemical protection suit;
- upon completion of work, mandatory water procedures.
In conclusion, the method works well but has a lot of unfavorable side effects, so it’s best to give it up.
The inference made pertains to washes that are purchased. You won’t experience these issues if you prepare them yourself. A few recipes
- 0.25 liters of ammonia (10%) is poured into 1 liter of cold water, 2 kg of construction chalk is added and mixed thoroughly. The resulting mixture is evenly applied to the paint and after 2 hours they begin to remove it (the composition does not destroy the paint layer, but disrupts its adhesion to the wall surface – it is removed in layers);
- Mix 1.2 kg of quicklime and 0.4 kg of soda ash until thick sour cream. Apply to the wall and let it soak through the paint. After half a day, the paint layer can be removed;
- Apply a thin layer of liquid glass to the wall. After drying, the silicate film is removed, and the paint is removed along with it.
The foundation of the thermal method is paint’s capacity to change from a solid to a semi-amorphous state at high temperatures, when it is neither liquid nor solid. Using a spatula, this paint layer is easily removed.
It can be heated using a blowtorch, a hair dryer, a regular iron passed through newspaper, or, for best results, food foil. The process is centuries old, has undergone testing, and has never failed. The only caution is to avoid applying heat near electrical wiring, switches, outlets, and other plastic objects as they may melt or catch fire.
This method has only one drawback: heated oil paint releases caustic materials into the air.
At the same time, the mechanical method of removing paint from the base was developed. Although the method requires a lot of labor, it is safe, does not create a fire hazard, and can be used with any hand-held percussion tool (trowel, axe, chisel, hammer) or power tool with an assortment of attachments. As a result, paint in the bathroom, kitchen, and nursery can be removed with it.
How can paint be manually removed from walls? Paint is scraped off in areas where there are swelling or fissures in the paint layer with a spatula. An ax, hammer, or chisel can be used to remove paint that is tightly adhered to surfaces.
Power tools with specialized attachments, such as drills and hammer drills, can be used to automate the process.
How to repair cracks
Following the removal of the old finish and plaster, the walls are closely examined to look for damage to the masonry joints, chips, and cracks. Defects that have been found must be fixed, especially cracks.
New tenants in panel houses detest cracks in the wall. Even in older "Khrushchev" apartments, you hardly ever find living-in apartments experiencing this problem. Here’s a quick explanation: building shrinkage is the primary cause of crack appearance. Either way, they must be sealed.
You are able to fix the crack by yourself. You’ll need the following for this:
- set of spatulas;
- brush;
- sponge;
- primer;
- sandpaper;
- putty;
- fiberglass mesh (in some cases).
Be careful: make sure the crack’s growth has halted before attempting to mend it. If not, your efforts will be in vain and you’ll need to start over after a certain amount of time.
We’ll walk you through every step of the process:
- plaster 2-3 cm wide along the crack;
- use a spatula to widen the gap; if necessary, you can use other tools (chisel, hatchet, chisel);
- the edges of the wall near the gap are cleaned with sandpaper;
- dirt and dust are removed from the recess and around it (this can be done with a vacuum cleaner or a brush);
- the crack itself and its edges are primed (it is most convenient to perform this operation with a sponge);
- the gap is sealed with any putty (you can also use acrylic paint sealant);
- after the repair mixture has dried in the wall gap, a serpyanka (a strip of fiberglass) is applied to the recess and covered with gypsum putty or the same repair compound that was used to seal the crack;
- Using a wide spatula, level the mixture into a thin layer;
- the dried solution is sanded manually or with a grinder (sandpaper with a grain of 100-150).
For information, use a narrow spatula to rub the polymer putty into the crack and a pneumatic gun to squeeze the acrylic sealant out of the tube.
Chipped areas and irregularities are first sealed with a special solution made for this purpose, after being moistened with "cement milk" or primer.
Potholes in the pantry are filled in by digging down two to three centimeters, then sealed with cement-sand mortar and primed. An extremely successful polymer-based repair composition can be used in place of the cement mixture. However, everything depends on the material’s cost; a mortar made of cement and sand is far less expensive.
They have to be leveled before wall decoration is completed. Drywall or stuck will save the day. Which particular option to select will indicate to the material "Is plaster or drywall better?" Think about both possibilities.
Alignment with plastering
Plastering a wall with a cement and sand mixture is the most popular method of wall alignment. For the solution to adhere properly, a plaster primer is required.
How to primer walls
When the primer is applied, the walls start to plaster. An operation of this kind permits:
- saturate the wall material with moisture, which will not allow it to take water from the plaster mortar;
- create a film with strong adhesion to the wall (the primer penetrates up to 1 cm deep into the material), which in turn provides good adhesion to the plaster;
- increase the strength of the surface of the wall material – the absorbed primer protects the wall from chipping, the formation of small cracks, etc.d.;
- bind dust particles that actively counteract any connecting processes.
The type of plaster and the type of wall must be taken into consideration when choosing a primer. For instance, cement-sand plaster mortar is not appropriate for use with primer intended for concrete or gypsum plaster.
Two coats of primer are applied to the repaired wall using a paintbrush or roller. Although it is advised to apply the second layer after the first after ten hours, in this instance, the subsequent layer must be applied after the first has dried. Since there are no studies on this topic, it is impossible to evaluate such advice with any degree of certainty.
Purrender of the wall
The installation of lighthouses is the next phase of preparation work. The article "How to install lighthouses on the wall for plaster?" goes into great detail about the process. Just briefly review the entire process of technology.
- In the upper corners of the wall at a distance of 10-15 cm from the adjacent wall and 20 cm from the ceiling with a puncher or drill, holes for dowels are drilled and self-tapping screws are wrapped in them-2-3 cm of the methyse is left above the surface.
- A plumb line is hung on the head of each screw, and at an altitude of 20 cm from the floor the hole under the second metiz is drilled. After this, the heads of the metizes are brought into one plane (it is necessary to screw or twist one of the screws with a screwdriver).
- The surface of the wall is checked. To do this, a fishing line or twine horizontally and diagonal is pulled between the screws.
- A construction square along a stretched line is used to measure the distance from the wall surface to the plane formed by the stretched lines.
- Add 3 cm to the most curved point of the wall towards the room and form a new plane – the plaster plane.
- Install guides for beacons from the PS profile.
The article "Plastering walls on beacons with your own hands" provides a step-by-step tutorial on how to plaster using cement-sand mortar. The phases include:
- splash;
- primer;
- covering.
Carried out strictly in order following the drying of the preceding layer.
The purpose of splashing is to improve the plaster mortar’s adherence to the wall. applied in layers as thick as five millimeters. The mixture needs to be made with more binder (lime, gypsum, or cement) and have a consistency akin to that of liquid sour cream.
In the event that it is decided not to prime the walls, they are wetted with water to prevent the wall material from removing moisture from the solution and interfering with the chemical process that forms cement (gypsum, lime) stone.
Experts recommend beginning at the lower left corner and working your way up between the beacon profiles. After completing the first row, proceed to the second, and so forth.
After the spray has fully dried, the second layer—referred to by builders as "primer"—is applied. This is the plaster layer of mortar that levels the wall. It should have the consistency of bread dough. Approximate thickness: 2 cm. The order of work is the same as that of spraying.
In the third layer, the wall’s surface is nearly perfectly level. Some experts can complete this portion of the process so well that putty is not needed for the final touch.
Keep the angles in mind when you move to a neighboring wall. They are never straight and even. As such, leveling the angle is both possible and required when sketching out the plaster plane. See "How to align the corners of walls in an apartment?" for instructions on how to do the task correctly.
Leveling with plasterboard
The article "How to level walls with plasterboard with your own hands" explains how to level walls for wallpaper using "dry plaster," which builders refer to as plasterboard sheets. and "How to use plasterboard to level walls without a frame?"
Using glue is the quickest, easiest, and least expensive way to level walls made of gypsum plasterboard. However, this option is limited to minor height variations on the wall surface, such as 3–4 cm. Installing a sheathing is essential if the curvature is larger.
First, glue is applied to the wall surface and the first sheet of drywall is pressed firmly against it if the wall is uneven up to 4 mm. The wall surface is covered with more sheets, but they are not pressed into the glue. Plasterboard is brought into the same plane as the previously glued sheets (which are tacked to the wall) using a level and rubber hammer.
Plasterboard strips come to the rescue if the unevenness is substantial; they are glued to the wall and wait for drywall to be attached before being attached to them. Remarkably, in many instances, apartment owners who perform the work themselves apply a lot of glue rather than strips. The outcome is always the same: as the glue dries, it contracts significantly, pulling the sheet away from the gypsum board and possibly bursting it.
Primer before wallpaper
There are many different materials used to make modern wallpaper. Choosing an adhesive that works with both the wall material and the trellis’s back side is very challenging. It will take more than a hundred different kinds of adhesive mass for this.
The producers of adhesive and wallpaper discovered a straightforward solution to this dilemma: they created unique primers that act as a bridge between wallpaper adhesive and the substrate.
As a result, you must select a wallpaper primer beneath the wall’s surface (it is already tailored to work with various kinds of glue). Use a roller to apply a thick layer of primer, and a brush to reach areas that are difficult to reach. Once the first layer has dried, the second, finishing layer is applied.
The first layer of primer for reinforced concrete is applied in a diluted form, and it must be completely saturated with moisture. Once the previously applied primer has completely dried, reprime.
The article "How and what is the best way to prime walls before wallpapering" goes into great detail about priming walls for wallpaper.
This is a succinct summary of the article’s major thesis for "How to prepare walls for wallpapering": It is essential to properly prepare the wall before wallpapering in order to achieve a smooth and durable finish. This post walks you through important tasks like priming walls, cleaning, and fixing surface flaws. You can make sure that your wallpaper adheres properly, stays free of bubbles, and improves the overall look of your room by carefully following these instructions.
The nuances of preparing a wall for different types of wallpaper
Wallpaper can be opaque or translucent, thick or thin. This modifies the steps involved in readying walls for trellis taping.
Liquid wallpaper
Although uneven walls are easily tolerated by liquid wallpaper, bright spots show through and appear gray on a dark surface. Consequently, if the walls are not light, make sure to paint them with white water-based paint instead of puttying the walls underneath them.
Non-woven wallpaper
It’s easier to prepare the wall entirely because lightweight non-woven wallpaper can be glued over paint as well as old paper trellises. The only things that need to be managed are the degree to which the previous finish sticks to the walls and the visibility of bright colors—whether from painted or old wallpaper—through the wallpaper. Should the requirement not be satisfied in any of the cases, a thorough cycle of wall preparation for wallpapering is forthcoming.
Photo wallpaper
In order for photo wallpaper to highlight even the smallest amount of wall convexity while also warping the pattern, the surface must first be puttied and then sanded by hand or with a sander.
Conclusion
When using modern wallpaper, it can be difficult to achieve a high-quality pasted wall without careful preparation. It is imperative that a cycle of work be completed:
- remove old finish;
- repair walls;
- level the surface with plaster or sheets of drywall;
- putty;
- treat with wallpaper primer.
Certain wallpaper varieties call for extra steps to be taken:
- photo wallpaper – sanding putty;
- liquid – painting walls with white water-based paint.
It’s essential to properly prep your walls before applying wallpaper in order to achieve a smooth, durable finish. You can make sure that your wallpaper adheres perfectly and looks great by following these steps.
First and foremost, a thorough cleaning of the walls is necessary to get rid of any dust, grime, or grease. A sponge or cloth and a mild detergent solution can be used for this. Areas close to the kitchen or bathroom where grease may collect should receive extra attention.
Next, look for any holes, cracks, or other flaws in the walls. Use a suitable filler or spackling compound to fill these. After filled, sand the repaired areas until they are smooth and uniformly colored with the surrounding wall.
It’s a good idea to prime after repairs. In addition to improving the wallpaper paste’s adherence and ensuring an even finish, primer also aids in sealing the wall surface. Whether you plan to use vinyl, fabric, or paper-based wallpaper, pick a primer that is appropriate for that kind of wallpaper.
Finally, to guarantee the best outcomes, give each step enough time to dry. Hastily completing the preparatory steps may result in problems like inadequate adherence or noticeable flaws beneath the wallpaper. For a wallpaper installation that looks professional, take your time and carefully follow these instructions.
This conclusion summarizes the key steps involved in preparing walls for wallpapering, emphasizing the importance of cleanliness, repair, priming, and patience for a successful outcome.