Your outdoor space can be transformed by laying paving stones on a concrete base to create a long-lasting and beautiful surface. To ensure the longevity and aesthetic appeal of your paving stones, whether you’re installing them for a driveway, patio, or walkway, proper installation is essential.
Although the process might first seem overwhelming, you can accomplish professional results if you have the right tools and a little perseverance. The most important steps are to prepare the base, use the appropriate materials, and lay the stones in a methodical manner. To avoid future problems like shifting, cracking, or uneven surfaces, every step is essential.
It’s crucial to prepare and gather all required materials before you begin. This includes any edging materials to keep everything in place, as well as sand and paving stones. You can avoid common pitfalls and save time and effort by properly planning.
We’ll walk you through every stage of the procedure in this guide, from setting up the concrete base to applying the finishing touches. You can build a stunning and long-lasting paved area that will improve your house for years to come with our advice and guidelines.
Step | Description |
1. Prepare the Base | Clean the concrete surface and ensure it"s level. |
2. Apply a Bonding Agent | Use a bonding agent to help the pavers adhere to the concrete. |
3. Spread Sand | Apply a thin layer of sand over the concrete to help with leveling. |
4. Lay the Pavers | Place the pavers in your desired pattern, ensuring they are level. |
5. Fill the Gaps | Brush sand into the joints between the pavers to lock them in place. |
6. Compact the Pavers | Use a plate compactor to ensure the pavers are firmly set. |
7. Seal the Pavers | Apply a sealant to protect the pavers and enhance their appearance. |
- Why should you lay tiles on a concrete base?
- Advantages and disadvantages of laying on concrete
- Arrangement of a concrete base
- Installation of curbs
- Reinforcement and pouring
- Features of choosing paving stones
- Installation methods
- On a dry pillow
- Using a solution
- Using glue
- Laying on an old concrete base
- Installation on a concrete blind area
- Video on the topic
- LAYING PAVEMENT TILES ON A CONCRETE BASE. STEP BY STEP
- Laying paving stones with glue yourself
- Laying paving stones on a concrete base
Why should you lay tiles on a concrete base?
Paving slabs are typically laid over a bed of gravel and sand. Crushed stone may also be used in place of the prefabricated mixture. However, occasionally, a dry lining of this kind is insufficient to guarantee the stability of the coating. Additionally, a concrete screed is made to establish the necessary conditions for the path or stone-laying site to function over the long term.
The following actions are required:
- When the soil on the site contains silty sand or peat.
- If you need to lay a tile path on a recently poured embankment.
- When clayey heaving soils are present.
- If you need to develop a site that will be subject to significant loads. For example, car parking.
- When there are already concrete foundations on the building site and their removal is labor-intensive and also unprofitable.
In the latter scenario, we discuss tile-laying options for a concrete blind area surrounding the home. or cement mortar garage flooring. However, you have to carefully inspect the strength of the concrete base before laying paving slabs on it.
Installing paving stones on old concrete that appears to be sufficiently sturdy and free of signs of deformation will not only make sense, but will also strengthen the coating even more. You will also be able to save money on building supplies. Additionally, the surface will seem more appealing.
There are a few simple steps you must take in order to ensure a stable and durable surface when laying paving stones on a concrete base. Make sure the concrete base is clean, level, and clear of debris before beginning. After that, spread a layer of mortar or sand to serve as the paving stones’ bedding layer. Place the stones carefully, making sure they fit together tightly and are level with one another. In order to secure the stones in place, fill the spaces between them with joint compound or sand and compact the whole surface. For any outdoor area, this technique guarantees a long-lasting and appealing paved surface.
Advantages and disadvantages of laying on concrete
Even though at first the technique was uncommon and caused many people to have doubts, today it’s becoming commonplace to arrange pathways, platforms, and even roadways with paving slabs. The coating’s longevity is on par with that of asphalt. Its service life also proved to be noteworthy, often surpassing that of other surfaces.
Furthermore, paving stone installation is very easy. Furthermore, costly equipment is not required to implement it. And the surface appears to be far more beneficial. particularly if patterns are established. And as of right now, persistent confusion is already being caused by asphalt islands on the main street.
The method is very cost-effective because the paving stones can be placed firmly on the sand bed. However, even with the addition of paving slabs to concrete, the process remains reasonably priced. Ultimately, the project’s practical benefits greatly surpass the extra expenses and time invested in it.
Benefits of paving stones applied to concrete:
- There is no shrinkage process at all. It would be more accurate to say that the subsidence of the concrete base occurs evenly and insignificantly. Therefore, it is not reflected at all on the surface.
- There are no failures, which are inevitable when the sand cushion is compacted poorly.
- The strength of the coating increases and it can withstand significant loads. This is due to the fact that the concrete screed is usually reinforced.
- The surface not only does not collect puddles, but water penetrating inside cannot erode the concrete base.
- The service life of the site increases significantly.
- The entire process can be completed independently, without the involvement of specialized specialists with expensive equipment.
Given that all things have an opposite side, it is imperative to discuss the drawbacks of the approach. Furthermore, some benefits occasionally become drawbacks. Water that seeps through the tile seams, for instance, won’t destroy the concrete base; it won’t seep farther into the ground.
When it freezes in the winter, the buildup between the screed and the paving stones will cause the surface to swell. There are two ways to make sure this doesn’t happen. It is possible to set up dependable drainage for the whole site. However, since experts advise insulating it, the cost of installation will go up dramatically.
Additionally, you can stop water from penetrating the surface. Use mortar to seal all the spaces between the paving stones in order to achieve this. Additionally, glue is filled in the joints if paving slabs are laid with it. Of course, this will also result in higher building costs. There are a few other small drawbacks, but they should also be noted.
The following are some drawbacks to installing tiles on concrete:
- As more materials are needed, the price rises.
- The complexity of installation technology is increasing.
- If the concrete screed is made poorly, its destruction will begin after the first winter.
Additionally, you’ll notice that repairs become more difficult when paving slab adhesive is used on a concrete foundation. On a sand bed, replacing a damaged component is typically not an issue. However, there is a greater chance of harming the nearby paving stones because the glued tiles will need to be literally torn off the concrete.
Arrangement of a concrete base
If a concrete screed is needed for tile installation, this process is known as "laying in a rigid trough." The concrete base is exactly at the bottom of the latter. And there are curbs all the way around.
There are minor variations in the concreting rules:
- Removal of the topsoil to a depth of at least 40 centimeters is required.
- Concrete screed for walkways is reinforced in the upper third.
- For car parks, bottom reinforcement is carried out, which increases the overall strength of the coating.
- Since curbs and storm drainage trays differ significantly in size from the thickness of the tiles, the depth of the trench is always calculated individually. In this case, the parameters of the concrete screed are taken into account.
The dimensions of the crushed stone backfill layer (15 cm) are added to the double parameters if the thicknesses of the concrete layer and the tiles are the same (6 cm). Consequently, a pit must be dug down to a depth of 27 cm. However, because a curb and a storm drain tray have different sizes, you will need to plan the trench’s bottom at different depths. This is required to ensure that every component that goes into making the surface is level.
We also need to remember to build slopes for water drainage. They ought to be in the range of 2 to 4 degrees. They can be arranged in a transverse or longitudinal fashion. They are made for paths used by pedestrians in both directions. Water flow is diverted onto the road in parking lots. However, occasionally water gathers in a subterranean container; in such case, the slope ought to be directed toward it.
Installation of curbs
Marking is the first step in any work required to lay paving stones on concrete. Materials are purchased in advance because the developer needs to have a clear plan of action for every step. to be aware of the prerequisites for site planning. Regarding the arrangement of tracks or platforms, the owner’s creativity is the only limit.
The area needed to lay the tiles is calculated by adding up the dimensions of the materials. It is important to remember that the calculations take curbs or storm drain components into account in addition to the paving stone dimensions. The area is then marked off after this.
The following are the primary steps:
- A wooden peg is driven in at the border of the site (a metal rod can be used).
- A cord is attached to it.
- The next peg is driven in at the end of the straight section.
- All boundaries of the future pit are marked in a similar way. And all the beacons are connected to each other by a cord.
This produces a contour that can be used to dig a trench to a specific depth. Paint or lime mortar can be used to make marks on curved surfaces. In addition, the stripes are painted on the ground directly.
Prior to beginning work, planning is necessary. Additionally, terracing is required if the area’s overall slope is greater than 7 degrees. Steps are used to decorate small spaces. Additionally, supports in the form of concrete walls or curb stones must be used if the area is large. The use of gabions is even warranted in certain situations.
When installing a storm drain tray in place of a standard curb, a trench much deeper than the element’s dimensions needs to be dug. Only in the areas where the tray is situated is it preferable to dig deeper. It is important to remember that a backfill layer at least 10 cm thick will be required for the part’s installation. Moreover, place it on concrete mortar. Additionally, you must increase the depth by a few centimeters.
After installing storm drain trays or curbs on the concrete mortar, every component is positioned in both the horizontal and vertical planes. Use a rubber mallet for this. Additionally, the future "trough"’ssidestake shape as the cement hardens. When making a concrete screed, they will swap out the formwork.
Reinforcement and pouring
It is always recommended by experts to lay geotextiles on the pit’s bottom when creating a cement screed. Additionally, there are situations where it is preferable to insulate the concrete base for paving stones in addition, such as when setting up a blind area. This is accomplished by applying 5 to 10 mm thick extruded polystyrene foam to the surface.
It is typically poured without reinforcement because the blind area is never seriously impacted. Furthermore, parking lots and pedestrian pathways have entirely different regulations. However, the method used to approach them differs. Therefore, you can fix the path closer to the surface by using wire mesh.
Parking is heavily trafficked. Consequently, the lattice is positioned at the bottom of the concrete layer and a steel bar is used to reinforce it. But wire mesh is frequently added to its upper portion to provide it more strength.
The grill can be made by you. This is accomplished by choosing reinforcement that is the necessary thickness—no more than 8 mm—and tying it all together with soft wire. There are two sizes available for cells: 10×10 cm and 20×20. However, since weaving mesh is labor-intensive and unprofitable, it is preferable to purchase it.
There will need to be special pads underneath the mesh or grille. or particular components like tables or spiders. Pads with a height of 1.5 to 3 cm are needed for lower reinforcement. Three centimeters should separate the wire mesh from the concrete screed’s surface.
It’s important to keep temperature breaks in mind when pouring a concrete base. That is, a wooden lath needs to be inserted every 4-6 meters of pouring. Additionally, the seam needs to be made all the way around the path or area and across the thickness of the concrete. As a result, every kind of reinforcement needs to be placed in between the planks.
Making sure the required slope for water drainage is taken care of at the end of the pouring process. Before installing tiles on the concrete base, this needs to be taken care of. The simplest method for creating a slope is to use a rule to straighten the surface. After all, water can roll off at just 1-2 degrees.
You must raise the horizontal mark on the building’s base in order to accomplish this when creating a blind area. Plaster beacons will need to be installed for parking. You can apply either of the first methods on a pedestrian path, in which case the slope will only be one way. Alternatively, the water will roll off in both directions if the beacon is placed precisely in the center.
It should be kept in mind that the cement needs to strengthen by at least 70% after the concrete base is completely poured. This may require two weeks or three days. Paving slabs can only be laid on the prepared surface after this.
Features of choosing paving stones
The quality and long-term functionality of a path or site are largely dependent on carefully chosen tiles. The technology used in their production is the first thing you should consider when buying stone paving stones.
There are various kinds:
- Hyper-pressed products are produced using the semi-dry pressing method. The material is very dense and is ideal for walkways because it is thinner than other methods.
- Vibrocast tiles are also used for paving paths. During production, the mold with the filled mixture is placed on a vibrating platform. In the further process, the raw material gains strength by compacting.
- Vibropressed paving stones have the highest strength and are used to create roadways and car parks. In this case, the wet raw material is first pressed and then vibrated.
Regarding polymer materials that are worthy competitors for goods made using conventional techniques, one more thing needs to be mentioned. The properties of the tiles are greatly enhanced by the addition of specific additives to the sand mixture, which enables the creation of materials that are exceptionally strong. They are all-purpose and used to pave highways and walkways for pedestrians.
However, you can also follow the product’s thickness as a guide:
- 30 mm – for pedestrian paths;
- 40 mm – for parking one passenger car;
- 60 mm – for paving the roadway within the city;
- 80 mm – for roads on which freight transport moves.
It is also important that you focus on the technical specifications. There must be enough frost resistance in the tile. The range is F100–F200. A compressive strength of less than 50 MPa is not permitted. No more than 0.7 grams of material per square centimeter should wear out, even under extreme use. Furthermore, water absorption shouldn’t go above 5%.
It is advisable to visually inspect the material when buying paving stones. There should be no obvious pores, chips, cracks, or other small flaws in the tiles. It is not acceptable to have irregularities like bumps and depressions. The product’s color will convey a lot as well. The palette’s irregularities or overly bright areas point to a subpar item.
Installation methods
There are three ways to apply the technology for laying paving stones on a concrete base:
- To the prance.
- Using a solution.
- On glue.
Every one of them has unique qualities. Furthermore, they ought to be covered in greater detail and on their own.
On a dry pillow
Gartsovka is a dry mixture made up of one part cement and five parts sand. Additionally, the fraction is chosen before the first component is thoroughly sifted. It ought to be compact. The pillow can be made up to 5 cm thick, but it needs to be carefully compacted.
This method of laying paving slabs on concrete requires setting up a specific base. Pipe cuttings are inserted vertically in the pit between the reinforcement when building a screed. They could be asbestos or polymers. however, avoid metal ones.
Pipes are cut flush with the surface once the base is fully solid. Additionally, little debris fills the makeshift holes. The moisture that will build up following precipitation will be lessened with the aid of this design.
Paving stones are placed in front of you, following the paved area that has already been established. The technique saves resources. If there is little load on the surface, you can still refuse cement in the prance. However, it is preferable to leave intact a crucial element that keeps the tiles in place on pathways that see a lot of foot traffic.
Using a solution
Large areas are covered when paving slabs are laid with mortar on a concrete base. This gives the structure more strength. Additionally, this condition is required when heavy loads are involved, like when paving a parking lot.
To solve the problem, combine one part cement and three parts sifted river sand. To make the composition usable, it is diluted with water to the necessary thickness. A 3 cm layer of the mixture is applied to the surface.
Let us examine the process of laying paving slabs on the mortar:
- Concrete primer is applied to a dry and free of debris base.
- After the primer has dried, cement mortar is spread over the surface.
- It is leveled using a notched trowel.
- Tiles are laid on the mortar according to the selected pattern.
- When placing tiles, it is necessary to maintain uniform gaps between them. For this purpose, special plastic crosses are used, which have different thicknesses.
- To level the elements in the horizontal plane, use a building level and a rubber mallet.
It is only permitted to walk on paved paving stones every other day. Following this period, you can use more paving stones or just sand to fill in the spaces between the stones. Then, liberally pour the surface.
Using glue
Paving slabs are adhered to a concrete base with adhesive, giving the surface a unique strength. A thin layer of the composition is spread out across the plane. It is between 5 and 10 mm thick. It also dries pretty quickly. As a result, making large amounts of ready-made glue is not advised.
It is preferable to dilute it gradually and add more as needed. An adequately leveled surface with pre-made slopes is necessary for this method. Because of the thin layer of adhesive, it is only slightly possible to level the paving stones during the laying process.
The spaces are filled in with a garter once they have hardened, which eventually happens after a day. The strength of the structure will greatly increase if you fill them with the same glue. However, since a large portion of the coating will need to be broken out, repairs to replace a damaged element will be very challenging.
Laying on an old concrete base
The state of the surface is closely inspected. Work should not be done if serious flaws are discovered. In this situation, a significant overhaul is required first. If not, the old base beneath the tiles will collapse, greatly reducing the paved surface’s long-term functionality.
Small flaws can be disregarded. They will relieve themselves while getting ready for work or while the lining is being done. And it boils down to this when it comes to tiling a concrete base on the street:
- The surface is thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt.
- Lumps are cut off, cracks and depressions are puttied.
- The surface is primed with a deep penetration compound and this action strengthens the entire old structure.
- The tiles are pre-prepared. Lay out on a plane and trim all the necessary elements.
- An adhesive is applied to the concrete.
- Paving stones are laid on top, maintaining small gaps.
Moving backwards along the concrete surface, the work is done evenly. The spaces are filled with glue after the surface has been fully adhered to. Later on, this will stop the paving stones from shifting.
Installation on a concrete blind area
The surface is examined and its condition is ascertained right away. Work in preparation is done if the strength is undeniable. With paving stones, the paving is completed.
To accomplish this, complete the following tasks:
- Along the border of the existing blind area, you need to dig a ditch into which curbs are installed on the solution for laying paving slabs on a concrete base.
- The height of the curb is calculated taking into account the thickness of the paving stones and the mortar layer on which the tiles will be placed.
- The elements are stacked according to the description given earlier.
- The gaps between the tiles are filled with grout and spilled with water.
There is no need to worry about creating the necessary slope because it is already present in the blind area. All that’s left to worry about is keeping the current drainage system operational. or construct a new building.
You can make sure that your paving stones are properly laid on a concrete base by adhering to these instructions. This guarantees the installation’s longevity and durability while also improving the outdoor space’s aesthetic appeal.
Don’t forget to begin with a level and spotless concrete surface. To achieve a smooth and even finish, this is essential. Paving stones can be made more flexible to accommodate slight movements and more securely fastened in place by adding a layer of sand or mortar between the concrete and the stones.
In the end, it will be worthwhile to take your time and carefully place each paving stone. To avoid any problems later, make sure to regularly check the alignment and level as you proceed. A stable and even surface is ensured by compacting the stones and adding fine sand to fill in the gaps.
In conclusion, upkeep is essential to maintaining the excellent appearance of your paving stones. Weed growth can be inhibited and installation integrity preserved with routine sweeping and sporadic joint resanding.
By keeping these pointers in mind, you’ll be well on your way to building a stunning and long-lasting paved space that you can use for many years to come.