Any construction, including a corrugated-sheet fence, must have a strong foundation. Due to its ability to evenly distribute the fence’s weight across the ground, a strip foundation offers stability. The reason this kind of foundation works so well for fences is that it keeps the posts from sagging or moving over time.
It’s important to plan the layout of your fence and mark the locations of the posts before you begin construction. To guarantee a solid foundation base, clear the area of any trash, rocks, or vegetation. Make sure the trench lines where the foundation will be dug are straight and level by measuring and marking them.
The local soil and climate conditions determine the trench’s depth and width. Generally speaking, the trench for a fence foundation needs to be dug to a minimum depth of 12 inches (30 cm) and a maximum width of about 12 inches (30 cm). This gives ample space for concrete to be poured, forming a sturdy base that can bear the weight and pressure of the fence.
After the trench has been prepared, the bottom layer should be covered with crushed stone or gravel. This facilitates drainage and keeps water from building up around the foundation, which could eventually erode it. To make sure the gravel layer is level and firm, firmly compact it.
Step 1: Prepare the Ground | Clear the area where the fence will stand, removing any vegetation and debris. |
Step 2: Mark Out the Foundation | Use stakes and string to outline where the foundation will go, ensuring it"s straight and level. |
Step 3: Dig the Trench | Excavate a trench along the marked lines, ensuring it"s deep enough for the corrugated sheets and foundation materials. |
Step 4: Lay Gravel Base | Fill the bottom of the trench with gravel to improve drainage and provide a stable base. |
Step 5: Install Formwork | Construct formwork along the trench to contain the concrete while it sets. |
Step 6: Pour Concrete | Pour concrete into the formwork, ensuring it"s evenly spread and level with the top of the form. |
Step 7: Embed Corrugated Sheets | Place corrugated sheets into the wet concrete, ensuring they"re aligned and properly supported. |
Step 8: Finish and Cure | Smooth the surface of the concrete and allow it to cure according to manufacturer"s instructions before erecting the fence. |
- Is it worth making a strip foundation for a fence made of corrugated sheets??
- Advantages and disadvantages
- Types of foundations with brick pillars
- The depth of the foundation and its width depending on the weight of the fence
- Selection of concrete grade and reinforcement diameter
- General diagram of the device
- Surface marking and trench preparation
- Pillow under the base
- Installation of formwork
- Base reinforcement
- Knitting reinforcement
- Pouring concrete
- Caring for concrete after pouring and how long it takes for a strip foundation to dry
- Stripping
- Waterproofing
- Video on the topic
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Is it worth making a strip foundation for a fence made of corrugated sheets??
Corrugated sheet fencing is a continuous sealed fence. It experiences maximum wind loads and needs stronger support systems than structures built of Euro picket fences or other piece materials.
The presence of a continuous concrete strip that supports the canvas at intermediate points as well as the points where it attaches to the poles enhances the structure’s strength and stability and increases its capacity to bear mechanical or wind loads.
An alternate method would be to install each pillar independently, then install the corrugated sheet and horizontal veins after that. In this instance, the lower portion of the fence is hanging above the ground, making it susceptible to weed germination and the entry of dogs, chickens, and other animals.
The performance of the fence is greatly diminished when a tunnel can be made. A continuous strip at the base of the fence improves its functionality and offers more defense against intruders entering a restricted area.
The most stable and long-lasting design option—best suited for regions with frequent and intense winds—is to install supports for poles in your own wells and then incorporate them into the tape when selecting the best kind of foundation.
To build a sturdy strip foundation for a corrugated sheet fence, it"s crucial to follow a few key steps. First, prepare the ground by digging a trench that"s wide enough to accommodate the foundation"s width and deep enough to reach stable soil or concrete. Next, ensure the trench bottom is level and compacted. Lay a base layer of gravel for drainage, then place reinforcement bars or mesh for added strength. Pour concrete evenly into the trench, making sure it reaches the top level of the formwork. Finally, allow ample time for the concrete to cure properly before attaching your corrugated sheets. This foundation ensures stability and durability for your fence, keeping it secure and long-lasting.
Advantages and disadvantages
A fence’s strip base has the following benefits:
- Durability, resistance to all possible loads.
- High load-bearing capacity with relatively low consumption of building materials.
- Possibility of construction on folds of terrain or slopes (at relatively small angles of inclination).
- Solid, attractive appearance of the fence.
A fence’s strip foundation has the following drawbacks:
- The need to dig a trench along the entire length of the fence.
- The greater the length, the higher the likelihood of deformation or destruction of the foundation due to heaving loads or seasonal soil movements.
- After pouring, you have to wait quite a long time for the concrete to harden.
Together, the design’s benefits and drawbacks enable us to declare the strip base the best option for building a continuous corrugated board fence.
Types of foundations with brick pillars
For a fence constructed of corrugated sheets, there are various foundation options:
- Monolithic tape.
- Collection tape.
- Strip-column foundation.
The option that is the most resilient to load is monolithic tape. The design’s drawback is that the poured tape must be exposed for a considerable amount of time in order to solidify, greatly lengthening the building time.
Although the prefabricated design makes building the fence much quicker, the fence’s durability and resistance to wind loads are both greatly diminished.
Additionally, construction equipment is required to install foundation blocks, and the use of piece elements (slag blocks and t.P.) weakens the tape even more.
The most dependable type of foundation that can withstand the strongest wind or mechanical loads is a combined tape-tower version of the base.
This type also requires exposure for the required amount of time to solidify concrete, in addition to the requirement for a monolithic tape.
The depth of the foundation and its width depending on the weight of the fence
One can categorize ribbon bases into:
- Small -sized. The trench has a relatively shallow depth (usually 50-70 cm), which reduces the volume of excavation work, but reduces stability.
- Recessedoptions. The depth of the trench slightly exceeds the level of winter soil freezing, which eliminates the influence of frost heaving loads.
The force of wind is the only significant and hazardous load that can damage a corrugated fence. A fully-fledged buried strip foundation is not utilized for fence construction because a 50 cm-submerged, shallowly buried strip is more than capable of supporting these loads.
Generally speaking, the width of the tape needed for corrugated sheets shouldn’t be more than 25 to 30 cm (sometimes even less).
The brick supports’ stability is adequate to counteract wind loads when a combined column-tape option is employed, so the tape’s width can be restricted to 20 cm.
Selection of concrete grade and reinforcement diameter
Medium-density concrete grades, such as M200 or M250, are typically utilized for the strip base.
You can use less dense concrete M150 in the right circumstances (such as a lowland, close to tall buildings, or surrounded by dense trees that shield the structure from the wind), taking into account the relatively light load from the weight of the canvas.
In the absence of outside forces, its load-bearing capacity is more than adequate to sustain a sheet of corrugated sheets.
One material that has wide quality tolerances is concrete. The strength of the tape is greatly diminished by purchasing M150 concrete, which is essentially equivalent to the M100 grade. To prevent density disparities, it is advised to use the minimum grade M200.
The best diameter fittings for this size of tape are 6 mm for auxiliary (smooth) rods and 10 mm for working (finned) rods. 12 mm working rods can be used if the tape width is more than 30 cm, but these rods are uncommon and should only be used with certain kinds of fences.
General diagram of the device
The steps involved in making a feed:
- Surface preparation – marking, removing the top layer of soil, if necessary, dividing into sections for a stepped strip foundation.
- Digging a trench. A ditch is dug about 70 cm deep and 20-30 cm wider than the width of the tape.The excavated soil is stored nearby; it will also be useful for backfilling the sinuses.
- A layer of sand cushion is placed at the bottom of the trench.
- The sand surface is covered with a layer of geotextile and a double layer of roofing felt for waterproofing.
- Assembling and installing lathing for pouring concrete.
- A reinforcement frame is created.
- Concrete is poured and the necessary procedures are carried out when curing the material.
- Stripping of the tape is carried out 10 days after pouring.
- After the end of exposure, further actions are carried out – waterproofing, backfilling of sinuses, etc.d.
In keeping with the fence’s construction and style It might be necessary to carry out additional steps, such as making indentations for pillar pouring and putting in intermediate supports for the canvas.
Surface marking and trench preparation
Stakes are used to establish the center line for marking. A layer of fertile soil the width of the future trench is removed on both sides of it.
Next, the wicket and gates are marked, as are the locations for installing pillars and other features that require independent structural support.
Recesses can be dug to install gates, wickets, and pillars for the canvas, if desired. Next, excavate the remaining trench area beneath the tape.
Pillow under the base
The layer that covers the sand cushion typically doesn’t go over 20 centimeters. This is because of the trench’s shallow depth and the structure’s low weight.
The sand is meticulously smoothed and packed to a maximum density on a horizontal plane. You can use a construction vibrating plate or hand tools for this.
Sand is moistened concurrently to increase packing density. It is advised to place geotextiles on top of the sand layer after completion to help keep moisture in the concrete during pouring.
Installation of formwork
The formwork is put together using 25 mm thick edged boards. After being assembled close to the trench, the shields are lowered inside and placed where needed.
Stops and inclined struts are used to secure the panels; to prevent concrete leaks, all connections must be made as tightly as possible.
It is forbidden to have gaps wider than 3 mm; ideally, there should be none at all. Any gaps that are discovered are filled in with thin slats or oakum.
Base reinforcement
Two different kinds of reinforcement are used to make an armored belt:
- Finned metal or composite with a diameter of 10 mm.
- Smooth reinforcement 6 mm thick.
The frame is a spatial lattice made up of four working rods—two above and two below—as well as a number of vertical clamps spaced one to 1.5 meters apart.
The working rods simply stay inside the belt after concrete is poured; they don’t do anything else. Vertical reinforcement is only necessary to keep the rods in the desired position.
Knitting reinforcement
The knitting method is used to join the components of the armored belt. One millimeter thick soft annealed steel wire is utilized for this purpose.
The knitting procedure is fairly straightforward: the wire is cut into 25–30 cm lengths. The piece is folded in half, with the ends rising up, and positioned beneath the connecting rods from below.
To tightly tighten the connecting rods, the loop is picked up with a special hook and rotated four to six times around the other end.
It’s such an easy process that even a novice can pick up the required skill almost instantly.
Pouring concrete
Concrete is poured from several locations that are uniformly separated from one another. The material will harden more uniformly and the tape will become stronger the faster it is poured.
Preparing the process of manufacturing or delivering ready-made concrete to the site in advance will help to minimize downtime or interruptions during pouring. To eliminate air bubbles from the array during pouring, the material must be bayoneted or processed using a construction vibration machine.
Since cold seams weaken the tape, especially if the tape is long, it must be finished in one sitting.
Caring for concrete after pouring and how long it takes for a strip foundation to dry
To shield the filled tape from the sun’s rays and to create a unique microclimate that slows drying, it should be covered with plastic film. Every four hours for the first three days, water is applied to the tape.
After that, watering is done three times a day for a week. The formwork is removed after 10 days of curing, and the concrete is deemed ready for additional work after a total of 28 days.
Stripping
Formwork is taken apart using a process called stripping.
Because the material’s strength is still low and the tape’s edges or corners could get damaged, the process is done as carefully as possible. The tape is given the chance to dry on the sides after the formwork is removed, which advances technological strength.
Using planed boards is advised to ensure that disassembly is done carefully and without causing any damage (at least from inside the form).
Waterproofing
By waterproofing, moisture can be kept from seeping into the concrete mass.
The process is required because nearly the whole tape surface will come into contact with soil moisture or rain, which deteriorates the material and reduces the base’s service life.
A layer of waterproofing can be applied using a variety of materials and techniques, the most popular being the application of hot tar, bitumen mastic, or specialty impregnations.
Though builders still know little about special impregnations and prefer more tried-and-true techniques like mastic or hot tar, they are the most effective because they totally stop moisture from penetrating the concrete mass.
Establishing a sturdy base is essential for ensuring the longevity of any construction, including corrugated-sheet fences. The fence won’t sag or move over time thanks to the even distribution of weight provided by a strip foundation. Concrete mix, gravel, formwork boards, and reinforcement bars should be assembled before beginning.
Start by laying out the fence’s perimeter and digging the trench appropriately. Trench width and depth should be adequate to support the design of the foundation; to avoid frost heave, the trench should normally extend below the frost line. Make sure the trench bottom is level and clear of any debris.
Next, build the formwork to hold the concrete while it hardens using strong boards. To ensure that the foundation has the correct measurements and levelness, make sure the formwork is firmly braced and aligned. Ensuring the strength and uniformity of the foundation requires this step.
To improve drainage and stability, cover the trench’s bottom with gravel after the formwork is in place. To provide a strong foundation for the concrete, thoroughly compact the gravel. This layer aids in preventing water buildup around the foundation, which over time may erode its structural integrity.
It’s time to get the concrete mix ready now. Make sure the mixture you choose has the proper amounts of cement, sand, and aggregate for foundation use. Working from one end to the other, pour the concrete into the formwork in manageable portions. To evenly distribute and level the concrete, use a shovel and a trowel.
To fortify the foundation against lateral forces, add reinforcement bars, or rebar, to the mixture after the concrete has been poured. Place the rebar in the concrete in the manner specified by your design, usually in the form of a grid. With this reinforcement, the foundation will be able to sustain the pressures that the fence will eventually exert on it.
Lastly, give the concrete time to properly cure. To keep the foundation moist and prevent it from drying out too quickly, which could lead to cracking, cover it with plastic sheeting or damp burlap. Prior to proceeding with the fence installation, make sure the concrete mix reaches its maximum strength by adhering to the curing guidelines specific to that mix type.
You can make sure your corrugated-sheet strip foundation for a fence is well-built and long-lasting by following these instructions. In addition to providing structural support for the fence, a well-built foundation extends its lifespan and ensures stability and dependability for many years to come.