There are several phases involved in building or remodeling a house, and each is essential to guaranteeing both structural soundness and visual appeal. Building interfloor ceilings is one essential component, particularly when using wooden beams. This post will walk you through the crucial procedures and factors to take into account when building an interfloor ceiling with wooden beams. It provides useful advice for both do-it-yourselfers and experts in the building industry.
For interfloor ceilings, wooden beams are a common option because of their durability, adaptability, and visual appeal. It’s critical to properly plan and measure the dimensions of the area where the ceiling will be installed before beginning construction. In order to minimize waste and guarantee a precise fit, this planning phase makes sure that you precisely determine the necessary materials and dimensions for the wooden beams.
Think about the kind of wood that best fits the requirements of your project when choosing the wooden beams. Popular choices include fir, pine, and spruce; each has distinct qualities that affect cost, strength, and appearance. Make sure the beams are adequately treated, particularly in areas that are prone to moisture or humidity, to prevent rot and pest infestation.
Make sure the space where the beams will be installed is ready before installing them. This entails removing any obstacles and making sure the supporting columns and walls—the underlying structure—are sturdy and able to support the additional weight of the ceiling. Sufficient reinforcement is necessary to avoid long-term sagging or structural problems.
It takes dexterity and focus to install the wooden beams. Mark the locations of each beam in accordance with your layout plan first. Make sure the beams are precisely horizontal with a level; any deviation from this alignment can compromise the ceiling’s overall stability and aesthetic appeal. Using the proper fasteners, such as screws or nails, firmly fasten the beams to the supporting structure, making sure the fasteners penetrate deeply enough to provide a secure hold.
After the beams are firmly in place, you can finish the ceiling in the style of your choice. To accomplish the intended look and feel, this can entail filling in the spaces between the beams with drywall, wood paneling, or other materials. Before sealing the ceiling, make sure all plumbing and electrical fixtures are positioned correctly.
Make sure everything is securely in place and up to your standards by doing a thorough inspection once the interfloor ceiling construction is complete. If there are any possible problems, take quick action to fix them so that your wooden beams and ceiling structure last a long time.
To sum up, building an interfloor ceiling with wooden beams requires meticulous planning, exact installation, and close attention to detail. You may build a strong and aesthetically pleasing ceiling that improves the overall appearance and feel of your living area by following these instructions and taking the materials and structural requirements into account.
Materials Needed | Process Steps |
Wooden beams, joists, nails, screws | 1. Measure and mark the positions for beams. 2. Install joists perpendicular to beams for support. 3. Secure beams to walls with nails or screws. 4. Lay insulation between joists for soundproofing. 5. Attach ceiling panels or plasterboard to joists. 6. Finish with paint or ceiling treatment as desired. |
- What does the concept mean??
- What are the varieties??
- First floor of a private house
- Second
- Attics
- Layer diagram and cake
- Tools and Supplies
- Features of device technology
- First floor
- Second
- Attic
- Terms of installation and when it can be used?
- Possible difficulties and errors
- Cost of construction work
- Video on the topic
- Video on the topic
- Interfloor covering on wooden beams | DIY frame house | Part 55
- Installation of a quiet subfloor on wooden beams [No. 36]
- BUDGET FLOOR OF THE SECOND FLOOR ON WOODEN BEAMS / OVERLOOK BETWEEN THE FIRST AND SECOND FLOOR /
What does the concept mean??
This house’s structure is designed to allow for the acceptance and transmission of dynamic and statistical loads to the building’s foundation and wall structures below, as well as vertical zoning of the interior space. They thus ensure that the building has the necessary structural rigidity.
Fundamental specifications for this part of building construction:
- Strength, the structure must withstand a maximum load of 400 kg/m2, for basement and attic floors without constant presence of people, these parameters are reduced to 200 kg/m2 . Beams that can withstand this weight have dimensions: with a span length of 2.2 m – section 150*75 mm; from 2.2 to 3.2 m – 175*100 mm; from 3.2 to 5 m – 225*150 mm. The cross-sectional size of the beam from its length is also determined by the ratio 1:24. With a length of 400 cm, permissible beam height: 400/24 - 170 mm.
- Thermal protection, heat transfer resistance coefficient is set to R = 4.95 m 2 K/W.
- According to SNiP requirements, the airborne noise insulation index should be no higher than 52.0 dB, and the shock index is 60.0 dB.
- The vapor permeability of the insulation depends on its type, for example, for internal insulation with mineral wool it is equal to 0.48 g/(m h hPa), and for external insulation with Penoplex, from the basement side on the basement floor – 0.32 g/(m h hPa).
- Density for the outer layer of boards or slabs – 500 kg/m3, for mineral wool insulation – 200 kg/m3 .
What are the varieties??
Wooden floors come in three different varieties. If the attic and basement are not heated, there could be a temperature differential in these spaces. In this instance, a minimum 150 mm thick reinforced thermal protection layer will be necessary. If the developer installed the heating system correctly, of course, the interfloor ceiling is nearly the same temperature on both sides.
The heat-protective layer for this design can be installed 100 mm, but impact, airborne, and system sound absorption tests will be necessary. If this coating’s thickness is insufficient, more acoustic insulation is added or a second sound-absorbing membrane is put in place. At the design stage, the most viable options are compared economically before selecting a protection strategy.
First floor of a private house
Another name for the first floor’s ceiling is the basement.
It is regarded as one of the most crucial aspects of house design because it operates under extremely demanding circumstances, is vulnerable to aggressive subsurface moisture exposure on the building’s structure, and needs to provide a sturdy barrier to keep moisture and cold from penetrating the interior rooms.
Because it functions as a floor, the basement floor likewise supports heavy loads. As a result, specific guidelines for installation and design are followed.
Reference: The heat-resistant structure of the basement ceiling will be the same as that of the interfloor ceiling if it is installed above a heated area.
Second
Interfloor is the term for the partition that is placed between the first and second floors; it has two working surfaces: the ceiling for the lower floor and the floor for the upper floor. Because of the relatively high voltages that are present there, reinforced load-bearing beams with a maximum span of 6 meters and a maximum deflection of 1/300 of the length are installed.
The center-to-center beam distance is measured between 0.6 and 1.0 m, depending on the computation’s outcomes. Generally speaking, the larger the permitted step, the smaller the beam’s span. The beams are fastened perpendicular to the building’s longest wall.
Beams, insulation and sound absorption as an inter-beam filler, two layers of vapor barrier on top and bottom of the insulation, ventilation gaps, rough and finishing floors, and ceiling finishing are the elements that form the interfloor ceiling.
Attics
Attic ceiling is another name for the attic ceiling. When a room is used year-round, its overlap is determined by the interfloor model; however, if it is only used during the warm season or for roof maintenance (i.e., unheated attic spaces), its overlap will be different from the interfloor. Although the structure itself may have a lower layer of insulation and sound protection, they do not require a finished floor.
Layer diagram and cake
Typically, they are composed of the subsequent layers:
- Plank rolling is made from boards or from panels hemmed to load-bearing beams. You can also lay their cranial bars nailed to the bottom of the beams. When installing I-beams, the board is placed in a niche; in this case, the cranial bars are not installed.
- Next comes a vapor barrier layer.
- Sound insulation layer.
- Place logs transversely.
- Laying a subfloor made of lumber.
- The finished floor is installed: parquet, tiles, laminate or linoleum.
Crucial! Good natural ventilation is required in the free space beneath the flooring; hence, a ventilation gap needs to be left between it and the noise-sound insulation layer.
Any finishing building material can be used to finish the interfloor floor from below. If necessary for the interior style, the beams can be left exposed. In this scenario, all subsequent layers are laid only after a subfloor is put in place on top of them.
There are particulars involved in installing a ceiling over an unheated subfloor:
- Particular attention is paid to the antiseptic treatment of all components that may be exposed to moisture coming from the ground.
- The insulation layer must be significant, more than 100 mm, the size is specified during the design depending on the climatic characteristics of the development area and the selected type of insulation.
- A waterproofing film is installed under the thermal protection layer to cut off moisture from the basement.
- The layer of heat insulation on top is protected with a vapor barrier to prevent the formation of condensation due to the temperature difference between the cold basement and the heated rooms of the 1st floor.
Tools and Supplies
Load-bearing beams are the most crucial component in the construction of interfloor wooden floors, so selecting the proper kind of wood is crucial.
Coniferous wood is preferred for such structures because, although larch is thought to be more durable, it does not bend well, so they try not to use it for floors. It is imperative that it receive an antiseptic treatment and a thorough cleaning of bark.
Supplies needed to make wood floor slabs:
- lining the ceiling surface with plywood or OSB boards;
- logs;
- board;
- wooden boards for rolling;
- bars 50*50 mm, for fixing the roll;
- heat insulator mainly from the mineral wool group;
- waterproof film;
- vapor barrier film;
- fastener.
The developer will require the following equipment and tools to finish the job:
- Bulgarian;
- electric drill with attachments;
- hand and circular saw;
- electric screwdriver;
- regular hammer;
- plane;
- stapler with staples;
- measuring instruments: ruler, angle, plumb line, tape measure and level.
Features of device technology
Regardless of the type of wall material the house is made of, all three types of wooden floors share a number of common requirements that must be fulfilled during the installation process.
- The supporting beam is distributed with uniform spacing, set strictly horizontally along the plane and parallel to each other.
- The permitted deflection of the flooring cannot be higher than the standard in relation to the beam length – 1/350.
- When the span is large and the beam cross-section is insufficient to ensure the calculated strength, the structure is reinforced by installing vertical columns, using specially designed perforated fasteners.
- When strapping wooden elements with load-bearing walls, it is necessary to lay waterproofing materials, for example, damper tape or roofing felt.
First floor
Using a subfloor as a foundation for thermal and waterproofing, this type of floor is constructed from load-bearing beams. Over the final layer is laid a finishing floor.
Bitumen or multiple layers of roofing felt are used for cut-off waterproofing prior to installing the beam edges on the load-bearing basement walls. To allow the ends of the beams to freely rest on the wall, specific openings measuring at least 150 mm are made in advance when arranging the base for the installation of timber.
Cranial bars are fastened to the beams from below once they are mounted. A layer of heat- and moisture-resistant material is then applied to the boards before they are hemmed. Rough floorboards are laid on top of the ventilation gap once it has formed, followed by the finished floor.
Second
Securing the beams is the first step in assembling such floors. They are typically placed into the wall’s grooves; this procedure is only permitted when wall structures are being built.
Interfloor slab installation phases:
- Load-bearing beams are treated with antiseptic impregnation against rotting and fire retardants for fire safety.
- The ends are filed at an angle of 60, painted with bitumen mastic and covered with 2 layers of roofing material for waterproofing protection. At the same time, the end of the beams remains open so that water vapor can freely escape without damaging the beams.
- Initially, 2 end beams are installed, with a minimum gap from the load-bearing walls of 50 mm.
- The timber is inserted into the “sockets” by 150 mm, maintaining a ventilation gap between it and the wall of up to 30 mm.
- Control the horizontal laying of beams at the building level. They are leveled using dried, waterproofed with bitumen, dies of various thicknesses, made of wood.
- In order to prevent the formation of creaking on the beams when walking, as well as preventing the entry of cool air currents, the resulting gaps are sealed with tow or mineral insulation.
- Fix the remaining beams using a similar technology.
- Every 5th beam is additionally fixed to the wall using anchors.
- When forming a “pie” of the structure, 50×50 mm cranial bars are installed on top, along the beam edges on both sides, with the bottom part under the plane of the beams.
- Fixing the boards with knurled cranial blocks to form a rough ceiling with nails.
- To install a significant layer of insulation between the beams, it is better to hem the board from below.
- A vapor barrier membrane is installed in front of the insulation to prevent condensation from penetrating into it, which is likely when rooms on different floors have different internal temperatures, that is, they are heated and unheated. In the same way, steam can leak into the thermal insulator of the structure from wet rooms on the 1st floor, in particular from kitchens, baths and showers. Therefore, the membrane is laid on top of the load-bearing beams with an overlap of 100 mm, the joints are sealed with mounting tape.
- Next, material for heat and noise protection is placed tightly between the beams on top of the film, while preventing it from jamming.
- To reduce impact noise in the ceiling, specialized soundproofing strips are installed along the upper plane of the beams.
- A waterproofing membrane is placed on top of the insulating material with an overlap of 100 mm, in order to protect against the penetration of moisture from the upper room into the insulation; the joints are treated with tape.
- Install a subfloor from boards or sheet material such as OSB or thick plywood using nails or self-tapping screws.
- Any finishing building materials can be installed on top of the rough base at the bottom and top of the ceiling. On the 1st floor the ceiling is being finished; the following can be well used here: lining, OSB panels and plasterboards.
Attic
As attic space is increasingly being developed as a warm attic, its overlap needs to fulfill two crucial roles simultaneously: load-bearing and insulating.
This explains why these floors are made in layers, just like the floors that came before them.
Phases involved in installing the attic floor:
- The process begins at the final stage of roofing work.
- Load-bearing beams are installed, as a rule, timber 150*150 mm for one-story houses and 200*200 mm for two-story houses, which are laid on brick or reinforced belt.
- Perpendicular to the supporting beams, joists are installed on the edge, for this you will need a 150×50 mm board, the installation step is 500 mm.
- A vapor barrier layer is installed.
- A heat insulator is placed on it between the joists to avoid heat loss and increase the level of sound protection of the floor.
- A waterproofing with a ventilation gap between the slabs and the membrane is installed so that the insulation does not collect moisture, and it can evaporate freely.
- After this, the floor is laid, first a rough one, then a finishing one.
- For the lower floor, the ceiling is designed.
Crucial! All of the wooden parts of the building need to be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant before the attic floor is installed.
Terms of installation and when it can be used?
The State Unified Standards, installation costs by type of work, and labor costs establish the standard time for installing wooden floors during home construction. It will require a team of two or three persons to install ceilings:
- Installation of beams with skull bar.
- Installation of anchors.
- Antiseptic of the ends of beams with wrapping roofing felts.
- Installation of crossbars with clamp fixation.
- Installation of rolling.
- Installation of the bearing binder.
- Hydropathy parchment.
- Thermal protection by the Ministry of Peninsulas.
The labor costs for 100 m 2 ceilings are estimated to be 148.52 persons. In addition, ceiling 83 fingering will be necessary.11 persons and 5.51 persons placing the boots, for a total of -237.14 persons.
Thus, a team of two people is able to perform one overlap of a house having a size of 10×10 m in plan, with an 8-hour working day for 237.51: 2: 8 = 14 days, and out of 3 people-for 237, 51: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3 8 = 10 days.
Only after the house is commissioned, or, in the case of builders completing installation, as soon as the load-bearing beams are fastened and the running boards are laid, will the design be usable by the residents.
Possible difficulties and errors
There won’t be any issues when constructing floors for developers who take the process of building a house seriously, implement its design precisely, adhere to technology maps, and follow safety regulations.
Naturally, this kind of work needs to be done by experts with a team of at least two to three individuals. To complete the task, you will need to buy premium materials, tools, and equipment, and follow design specifications.
Such work will be challenging for less experienced performers, but the following mistakes could be made in the process:
- The lumber was not treated with antiseptic impregnation against rotting and fire retardants for fire safety.
- When installing the beams, the 60° corners were not cut and the logs were not waterproofed.
- Violation of horizontality when installing beams and floors.
- Low-quality lumber was installed, with unacceptable characteristics in terms of size and humidity.
- Beams have excess deflection and humidity above 12%.
- There was a violation of the order of laying the protective layers of the “pie” of the floor.
- Incorrect insulation size and characteristics selected.
- There are no heat, steam or water protective layers.
- Poor installation of protective material, large gaps between tiles.
- No ventilation gap.
It takes careful planning and execution to build an interfloor ceiling with wooden beams that is sturdy and dependable. This post walks you through the crucial actions to guarantee a strong structure that improves the construction or renovation project’s visual appeal and safety. We cover everything you need to know, from choosing the appropriate kind and size of wooden beams to comprehending load-bearing capacities and using the right installation techniques. Whether you’re a do-it-yourselfer or hiring pros, adhering to these guidelines will help you create a high-quality interfloor ceiling that satisfies building codes and will endure for many years.
Cost of construction work
The process of installing wooden floors is costly because the technology involved requires multiple intricate steps. The ultimate cost is determined by the location ceiling level; the higher the level, the more expensive the installation will be, based on the quantity of layers and the kind of materials chosen.
Without material costs, the average cost of labor to install wooden floors between floors is:
No | List of works | Units measurements | Price, rub./m 2 |
1 | Installation of beams | m 2 | 320 |
2 | Rough cladding of beams with boards | m 2 | 150 |
3 | Installation of logs | m 2 | 420 |
4 | Rewind device | m 2 | 120 |
5 | Laying finished floors | m 2 | 380 |
6 | Sub flooring | m 2 | 180 |
7 | Insulation of floors in 1 layer, mineral wool | m 2 | 250 |
8 | Insulation with Penoplex | m 2 | 350 |
9 | Vapor barrier of floors | m 2 | 50 |
10 | Waterproofing | m 2 | 90 |
eleven | Sealing seams | m.P. | 100 |
12 | Total cost of 1 m 2 of floors (without sealing seams) when installing mineral wool insulation / with Penoplex | m 2 | 1960/2060 |
Video on the topic
See the video for instructions on creating a wooden interfloor ceiling:
Building a sturdy interfloor ceiling with wooden beams needs to be carefully planned and carried out. To begin, determine the load-bearing capacities and structural specifications of the beams required for your particular project. If required, seek advice from a structural engineer to make sure the design complies with all safety requirements.
Once the specs have been established, choose premium wooden beams that are suitable for the span and weight they will bear. Think about things like the kind of wood, its strength, and how resistant it is to pests and moisture. The longevity and durability of your ceiling structure are guaranteed when the timber is properly treated and seasoned.
To preserve structural integrity, make sure the beams are precisely measured and aligned during the installation process. Using the proper fasteners and brackets, firmly fasten the beams to the supporting walls and columns. To avoid future structural problems, it is essential to abide by local building codes and manufacturer instructions.
Once the beams are firmly in position, think about soundproofing and insulation options for the interfloor ceiling, if necessary. This measure not only improves comfort levels but also lowers noise levels and improves energy efficiency in the building. Select insulation materials that offer sufficient thermal resistance and are appropriate for use with wooden structures.
After construction is finished, make sure there are no gaps, loose connections, or indications of structural compromise by carefully inspecting the entire ceiling system. Deal with any problems as soon as possible to keep them from becoming bigger ones later on. A well-constructed interfloor ceiling guarantees years of safety and functionality in addition to improving a space’s visual appeal.