Is it possible to paint decorative plaster, what and how??

Your walls may seem more interesting with decorative plaster, but you may be wondering if it can be painted over. Painting or adding ornamental plaster is undoubtedly an option if you’re looking to update an outdated wall or simply want a new look. To obtain the best outcomes, there are a few things you should be aware of.

To begin with, there are differences between different kinds of decorative plaster, and the texture and composition of the plaster can affect the final finish. Understanding what you’re working with before you begin is crucial because different plasters may absorb paint in different ways. You can add a new coat of color and still make your plaster look beautiful with the correct preparation.

This post will guide you through every step of painting ornamental plaster, from selecting the best paint type to using it skillfully. We’ll also go over any unique factors you should be aware of to guarantee a seamless and long-lasting finish. Let’s explore how a small amount of paint and some cautious application techniques can transform your plastered walls into something new.

Question Answer
Can you paint decorative plaster? Yes, you can paint decorative plaster.
What type of paint should be used? Use high-quality acrylic or latex paint.
How should you prepare the surface before painting? Ensure the surface is clean, dry, and free of dust. You might need to apply a primer first.
What tools are needed for painting? Brushes, rollers, or sprayers can be used, depending on the texture and your preference.
Are there any special techniques for painting decorative plaster? For best results, use light, even strokes and consider applying multiple thin coats.

What paint and what kind of plaster can be painted

Many factors determine the quality of the repair. The type of finishing material is the most important of them. So, we’ll enumerate all the materials that can be used to paint plaster. Paints and enamel are available from manufacturers for painting cement and gypsum plaster.

Paint is a mixture consisting of coloring pigments, solvents, and binder that has a consistency akin to sour cream. An aqueous or non-aqueous solvent can exist. Water-dispersion paint, also referred to as "water-based" paint, is a clearer and more straightforward paint.

It has an elastic, long-lasting film that lets air molecules and vapor through. In other words, a wall painted with such paint "breathes" One major benefit of finishing is this. Drying oil is a solvent used with non-aqueous coloring materials. Oil paint is the name of the paint itself. Following application, a long-lasting, vapor-proof film is produced. And that’s a drawback.

Pigments, fly-resin fillers, different varnishes, and specialty solvents (such as acetone and white spirit) are combined to create enamel. The painted surface takes on a glossy, nearly reflective sheen. Enamel-coated plaster is strong and completely impervious to moisture and UV rays (you could paint the bathroom).

Paint binder can be made of a variety of materials:

  • cement (slaked lime) – mineral paint;
  • acrylic – acrylic;
  • liquid glass – silicate;
  • silicone – silicone;
  • latex – latex.

Mineral dye

The least expensive kind of dye is mineral paint. Works well on brick, drywall, stone, and wood in addition to plaster. Cons: short service life; fades quickly; high hygroscopicity makes it sensitive to moisture. It is therefore not suitable for painting an open balcony, as rain will quickly erode the paint layer.

Acrylic

Dye based on acrylic has the highest sales volume. This is not shocking, either. Regarding final materials:

  • long service life;
  • the ability to hide minor defects in the plaster layer, thanks to acrylic resins in the composition;
  • high strength;
  • ability to withstand any changes in temperature and humidity.

Low vapor permeability is a minus.

Silicate

Paint with unusual qualities due to the use of liquid glass as a binder:

  • retains the original color under ultraviolet rays;
  • operational life of more than a quarter of a century;
  • resistant to temperature changes;
  • not afraid of high temperatures – protects against the spread of fire in case of fire;
  • does not provide a basis for the development of mold and mildew;
  • easy to clean from any dirt.

The reasonable price is an additional benefit.

Significant flaws, however, slow down the growth of sales. Among them are:

  • complex coloring;
  • lack of plasticity – most of all dyes emphasize the slightest imperfections in plaster;
  • poor adhesion to porous and loose materials;
  • fear of moisture and frost – garage, basement, bathtub, balcony are not included in the list of objects for possible use.

Silicone

The most recent development in the paint and varnish industry is silicone-based dye. Other than being expensive, the paint has no negative aspects. However, you must pay a price for quality. Benefits

  • excellent vapor permeability with water resistance – vapor molecules penetrate the paint layer, but water does not;
  • good elasticity and plasticity, due to which microcracks are delayed;
  • high resistance to various types of mechanical exposure;
  • durability;
  • high aesthetic characteristics and t.D.

Latex

For decorative plasters, latex-based dye works great because it highlights the surface relief. Dry up fast. Not frightened of the wet. doesn’t include any dangerous ingredients. Because of the dense consistency—which is extremely thick but cannot be diluted—consumers mistake the expensive price for a complex application.

Paint may vary from one another and special effects in addition to the aforementioned requirements. You can purchase the following compositions:

  • under the sand;
  • velvet;
  • silk;
  • cotton fabric;
  • stone;
  • Venetian plaster;
  • metal (metallic);
  • paint-"chameleon" and t.D.

Materials and tools

If the following supplies are available, plaster painting can be done on apartment walls:

  • paints. Tinted ones are purchased from the same batch – shades may not match. There are no such requirements for white paint;

  • a ​​set of pigment dyes for tinting white water-based paint (oil paint is sold completely ready for use);
  • primers for cement and gypsum plaster under paint ("Betonokontakt" under oil, "Knauf", "Ceresit" and others – under water-based paint).

A little trick (life hack): the paint will have better hiding power if you add a small amount of colorant to the primer to match the primary color.

Also, you’ll need the following tools and devices:

  • stepladder or sturdy table;
  • electric drill or screwdriver with a mixer for mixing paint;

  • small brush, 50 mm wide, for preliminary painting of hard-to-reach places (corners, joints of the wall with the floor and ceiling, near doorways, if the casings were not removed);

  • a tray for primer and paint;

  • food foil or cling film;

A useful tip is to avoid washing the tub by covering its interior with food foil or film. Replaced the soiled shield with a fresh one.

  • polyethylene film – protects the floor and furniture from splashes;
  • construction tape for fixing the protective film;
  • paint roller;

A helpful tip is to trim the fibers on the edges of a roller composed of real or fake fur at a 45-degree angle so that the paint will spread more evenly at the joints between the strips.

One more small tip: SNiP needs a different roller for every coat of paint. The used roller is cleaned by hand craftsmen, dried, and then put to new use.

  • a wide brush (8-10 cm) or paint brush for applying primer or paint;

  • screwdriver;
  • sandpaper P400 (M40 – according to the old classification);

  • spray gun – when painting by mechanized method.

Calculation of the amount of paint

Paint should be applied in a way that guarantees painting of the entire intended surface. Better yet, leave about a liter so you can gradually repair the damaged areas.

Errors on the smaller side can cause problems because the tinted paint might come from a different batch and have a mismatched shade. Even worse, no matter how much you’d like to, you won’t be able to guess the color scheme if you did the tinting yourself. As a result, careful consideration should be given to the problem of determining the amount of coloring matter.

There are three steps in the entire process.

Step 1: Calculate the area that needs to be painted. This is accomplished by multiplying the height of the ceiling by the length of the wall’s perimeter. The area of the walls turns out. This is where the window and door openings are. The entire result is reduced by their total value. The area to be painted is measured in square meters (m2) as a result of the subtraction.

Step 2: Calculate the dye’s initial volume in kilograms. In order to accomplish this, we multiply the room’s area twice: once by the paint consumption for the first layer (as stated on the packaging), and again by the paint consumption for the second pass (as shown in the table below). The numbers that are obtained are totaled.

Table 2: Average paint consumption by type per square meter.

Types of paint 1 layer, g/m2 2 layer, g/m2
Mineral 340-370 200
Acrylic 250 150
Silicate 400 350
Silicone 300 150
Oily 130-140 110-130

Step 3: The outcome is modified based on multiple parameters:

  • if you ignore the primer for painting, the consumption increases by about 10%;
  • painting with a paint brush will additionally increase consumption by an average of 5%;
  • changing the order of painting: hard-to-reach places first, then the rest of the area in reverse, also leads to losses of 1-2%. The adjusted paint volume is divided by the weight of the can or bucket and rounded up. Nothing complicated, but nuances need to be taken into account.

Preparatory work

The preparatory phase involves getting ready for painting:

  • premises;
  • surface to be painted;
  • paints.

Preparing the premises

Painting is categorized as "dirty" work. Splashes of paint need to be kept away from floors, furniture, doorways, and window openings. Thus, getting the space ready for wall painting is just as important as the other stages. The following order is followed for all work:

  • lamps, paintings, hangers and various fasteners are removed from the walls;
  • furniture, household appliances, things are moved to another room;
  • larger furnishings are moved to the center and covered with plastic wrap;
  • door frames, floor and ceiling plinths are dismantled;
  • the room is de-energized, after which the sockets and switches are removed;
  • the window is covered with film if painting is carried out during the day in rooms on the sunny side – under the influence of sunlight the color of the paint changes (hanging is done immediately before starting work);
  • Painting tape or construction tape is applied along the ceiling, close to the wall. The same operation is carried out with the skirting boards and platbands remaining in place;
  • the floor is covered with plastic film.

Surface preparation

The quality of surface preparation determines the outcome of the paint job. Ultimately, even the smallest chips, cracks, and irregularities are visible to all because of the paint. The interaction of light and shadows causes this to occur. Consequently, the surface needs to be smooth and level. The algorithm listed below can be used to accomplish this:

  • Electrical wiring, sockets, switches, and fasteners are removed from the walls;
  • the old finish is removed – you can see how this can be done quickly here;
  • the plaster layer is tapped to find “swelling” places;
  • plaster layers that have fallen behind the base are removed;

Be aware that it is preferable to tear down the remaining plaster and repaint the walls if you had to remove more than 50% of the previous layer.

  • all chips, cracks, places with chipped plaster are sealed with plaster mortar. The technological process of sealing cracks is described in detail in the work “How to prepare walls for plaster.”?».
  • the walls are primed. It is advisable to apply the primer in two layers;
  • the surface is puttied with gypsum mortar (cement plaster can also be leveled using grout);
  • the dried putty is lightly wiped with “zero” and sanded;
  • the quality of preparation is checked using side lighting (portable lamp). If necessary, adjustments are made;
  • putty is primed for painting.

What and how to prime

Painting surface priming is an objective necessity, not a whim of the painter. The following tasks are completed with its assistance:

  • the paint consumption for the first layer is reduced by about 10%, which, by the way, pays for the cost of purchasing and applying a primer;
  • the surface to be painted is strengthened. This is especially important if the paint is applied to gypsum putty or plaster;
  • the adhesion of the paintwork to gypsum (cement) improves;
  • dust binds;
  • walls are protected from mold and mildew.

You can use any manufacturer’s primer. However, the well-known brands "Knauf" and "Ceresit" (CT 15 or CT 16) deliver the best performance. Although the domestic "Prospectors," "Tex," and others are marginally subpar, their quality attributes are adequate for many years of use. A primer costs between 40 and 120 rubles per liter.

One layer of primer is applied using a wide brush (mask brush) or a roller (two passes are required).

An equally effective homemade primer is made by mixing one part ready-to-use paint with two parts water. Apply twice.

The link will provide you with the details of priming walls.

Preparing the Paint

Heavy filler particles sink to the bottom, so stirring is nearly always necessary when using purchased paint. Furthermore, most of the time a consistency adjustment is necessary because it is thicker than what is needed for work. As a result, water is gradually added to the paint container while stirring until the paint takes on the appearance of sour cream. Acrylic is similar to other thick, medium-fat paints.

Additionally, oil paint is combined. It essentially separates during storage, with oil at the top and colored fillers at the bottom. An electric drill or screwdriver with a mixing attachment will make stirring easier. However, if they are absent, a straightforward stick will suffice. It will merely require multiple times as long.

When stirring, if grains start to show on the surface, the water emulsion is filtered through three layers of folded gauze.

If you have to tint a water-based emulsion at home, it’s more work. In this instance, the tasks are completed in the order listed below:

  • white paint is poured into a bucket (10-12 l), so that it is enough for one room. After all, it’s impossible to get the same color again. If a mistake was made and less paint was prepared than required, you will have to paint the wall with windows in a lighter color;
  • adding water in small portions, the composition is brought to the desired consistency;
  • coloring pigments are added to the paint. There may be one or more. It all depends on what the owners want to get. After each addition of dye, the paint is thoroughly mixed. Especially near the walls of the container and the bottom. This is where the poorly mixed composition most often ends up;

  • a small area of ​​the wall is painted with a roller or brush. Approximately 1 m2. This operation will allow you to see the real color and tone of the paint in about 2 hours. After all, it is in a bucket and on the wall – different in color.

You can independently prepare several imaginative wall colors with an unusual design:

  • for gold – white paint is brought to an orange state, in a wet state, after which one, maximum two drops of red or brown are added to it;
  • golden brown – yellow (orange) pigment and 1-2 drops of red and blue dye are added;
  • imitation bronze – the following are added alternately to the white paint: yellow or orange dye until a rich yellow color is obtained, then a drop of red and green;
  • nacre. May have several shades. That"s why the additives are different. For example, mother of pearl is white – a little black is added to the bucket, plus blue.

Paint can be made to have the chameleon effect by mixing in the corresponding pigment.

Decorative plaster can be painted to update its appearance or change its color, but there are some important steps to follow in order to do it correctly. First, check to see if the plaster is dry, clean, and in good shape. Next, apply a premium primer that works well with the plaster. For optimal results, use a paint that is intended for use on textured surfaces after priming. By doing these things, you can make sure that the freshly applied paint looks fantastic and endures.

Plaster painting technology

Make sure the walls are completely dry before beginning any work; paint cannot be applied to wet plaster. Paint can be applied using a brush, roller, or spray gun. Every paint application method is meticulously honed to the last detail.

Brush

Using a brush to paint surfaces is the oldest technique. Easy to understand but lengthy and of poor quality. Furthermore, the five percent increase in paint consumption goes against technology (paint losses are caused by streaks and splashes that fly in all directions and become a thicker layer of paint after grouting).

This is how the step-by-step algorithm appears:

  • Before starting work, the flywheel (large) and small brushes are soaked. Wet wood of the handle holds the bristles more tightly – less of them remain on the wall along with the paint;
  • paint is poured into a small container – this makes it easier to work with. If factory containers are used, the water-based emulsion must be stirred every 30 minutes to maintain the color tone;
  • the brush is lowered into the paint by about 1/3 of the bristles, after which, with light blows on the edge of the jar (bath), the excess paint taken up by the bristles is removed;
  • apply a thin vertical stroke from the upper left corner. The swing hand (maklovitsa) is held almost at a right angle to the wall. The pressure is weak;
  • using zigzag movements, the vertical stroke is shaded – this technique allows you to reduce the number of streaks to a minimum;
  • the brush is dipped into the paint again;
  • a second vertical stroke is carried out so that when shading, the paint slightly overlaps the painted surface of the wall with the first stroke.

There is an easier method: without shading, the first layer of paint is applied horizontally, and the second layer is applied vertically. Here, there are no omissions, but there are more drips, which means there is more paint used.

Roller

Two paint application techniques are employed by professional painters when using a roller:

  • W-shaped, when the roller goes vertically from bottom to top and descends at an angle. And so on one by one. The movements resemble the Latin letter "W". You can start from any angle. Paint stripe approx. 50 cm. The strips are applied with an overlap of 50-100 mm;

  • strictly vertical movements from top to bottom. You can also start from anywhere. Each subsequent strip overlaps the previous one by about 5-10 cm;

The procedure itself appears as follows:

  • the roller is pre-wetted, and then squeezed out as hard as possible with your hands – this makes it easier to saturate the entire surface of the tool with paint;
  • paint is poured into the tray;
  • the roller is lowered into the ditch and then rolled along the edges of the bottom until the entire fur is covered with paint. If this operation is not performed, there will be unpainted areas on the surface to be painted, the so-called “unpainted areas”, which are almost invisible on a wet wall;
  • the roller is again dipped in the paint, after which it is wrung out on the ribbed tray of the bath so that a small amount of the dye is around the entire circumference;
  • drips are removed with a used roller.

A useful tip is to wrap the roller in cling film multiple times if you need to continue working the following day and are unable to wash it.

It is unlikely that inexperienced painters will realize that the type of roller used affects the paint’s quality. However, they are available for purchase in fur, velor, and foam rubber. As a result, we will quickly explain which roller and how to choose it.

The painting tool is made up of a revolving cylinder, a handle, and an interchangeable fur coat (see photo below).

The painting tool’s structure enables you to purchase only fur coats. They determine both the pace and caliber of painting projects.

An inexpensive choice for a fur coat is foam rubber. Paint can be absorbed into it in large quantities due to its high porosity. This has the benefit that you can paint more quickly without getting sidetracked by having to keep dipping the tool in ditches, but it also has the drawback that small air bubbles stay on the wall and compromise the paint film’s integrity. It becomes distinctly visible after drying.

Velours. Experts dislike Velor because it works at the slowest possible pace. The roller’s limited coloring material is the cause; you must constantly dip it in the bathtub. And a blessing for do-it-yourself artisans: the paint is applied smoothly and evenly without splattering. The main issue is that it’s difficult to locate for sale.

Fur. Paint roller coats are made from both real and synthetic fur. At work, they act in the same way. In this case, pile length is another crucial indicator.

  • Short fibers generate a lot of splashes, which also fly far.
  • Long ones like to crawl out of the roller and remain in the paint layer. They splash too.
  • Medium pile is the best option.

Life tip: Using a lint roller to paint a rough surface produces better color results.

Spray gun

Let’s now examine how to use a spray gun to paint decorative plaster. From a technical standpoint, everything is straightforward:

  • water or a solvent is added to the paint – it should be more liquid, after which it is stirred and filtered through three layers of gauze (otherwise the nozzle may clog);
  • a test painting of a foreign object is carried out, during which the supply of dye is adjusted;
  • after stabilizing the jet, the nozzle is brought to the surface to be painted: vertically, at a distance of 30-60 cm. Painting speed – 1 m per 5 sec;

Painting must begin from the top down to avoid drips on the final coat of paint. It will need to be cleaned up, which will compromise the coloring book’s integrity. Apply paint in square meters or so.

The nozzle’s motion should be fluid in speed. Acceleration causes spots that are poorly painted, delay causes drips. Ultimately, underpainting is preferable. The flaws in the previous coat of paint will be concealed by the subsequent one. Three passes is the ideal amount of time.

Painting decorative plaster

You also need to think about painting decorative plaster yourself. Here, entirely different methods are applied. Most well-liked:

  • in one tone;
  • using two color shades;
  • using a dry brush;
  • "wash".

A timeless method for painting any surface is one tone. Any painting tool, such as a brush, roller, or spray gun, is used to apply the paint in a "one pass" in an even layer without any gaps.

Be aware that when painting decorative plaster, the phrase "one pass" used in the industry does not refer to a single layer. They might come in multiples.

In order to apply stripes from top to bottom, it is advised that the roller move up and down in the same lane while the brush first passes through vertically and then horizontally in the second passage. Staining textured paint more than once is crucial because it has a thicker consistency and doesn’t go into all the nooks and crannies the first time.

The same hue in two shades. Using a long-haired roller, the entire plaster is first thoroughly stained with the basic tint. The prototed layer receives a second coat of paint or foam roller application after the first coat has fully dried, intensifying the color in those areas.

Use a dry brush method. Another method is to use a "dry brush" to apply paint after decorative plaster. In order to achieve the desired effect, a second layer of paint is applied to the previously painted surface on the parts that protrude (the very tips) using a wide brush. Meanwhile, an alternative hue. For instance, gold, bronze, and silver. Technically, it appears as follows:

  • the tip of the brush is lowered into the dye;
  • on the auxiliary surface, the paint captured by the bristles is released – the brush should be almost dry;
  • With quick, light movements, the brush is moved along the tops of the protruding plaster, releasing the remaining paint;
  • if necessary, the same place is painted several times until the desired effect is achieved.

Clean. Carrying out a "wash" is not hard. This is accomplished by painting the plaster in "one pass" using a water-based paint. After that, it is slightly removed from the parts that protrude, brightening them, using a damp sponge. A drill bit or grinder is used to lighten oil paints and enamel.

It is possible to paint decorative plaster, and doing so is a wonderful way to update or modify the appearance of your walls. Prior to beginning any painting, it is crucial to ensure that the plaster has completely dried and been properly prepared. This include making sure the surface is dry and cleaning it to get rid of any dust.

Selecting the appropriate paint type is also very important. Select a plaster-compatible paint that is of superior quality and breathability. This will guarantee better adhesion and longer paint life. Asking your local paint store for recommendations is always a good idea if you’re not sure.

Lastly, a little caution is needed when painting decorative plaster. Apply a primer if necessary, and make sure the brush or roller you use is suitable for the plaster’s texture. You can achieve a stunning, long-lasting finish that highlights the distinctive appearance of your decorative plaster with the appropriate planning and application methods.

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