Just about the complex: how to make a gable roof on a garage with your own hands?

Even though installing a gable roof on your garage might seem difficult, you can do it yourself with the correct help. In addition to improving the appearance of your garage, a gable roof offers more storage space and improved drainage than a flat roof. For your garage, you can have a strong and appealing roof by following a few simple steps.

We’ll walk you through every step of the procedure in this guide, from assembling the necessary supplies and equipment to the last installation. You will get knowledge on how to cut and measure the roof’s component parts, put the frame together, and fasten the roofing materials. Regardless of your level of experience, these simple instructions will help you finish the project.

If you’re not a skilled carpenter, don’t worry. You’ll be able to build a sturdy and dependable gable roof with perseverance and meticulous attention to detail. Let’s get started and discover how this useful and fashionable upgrade can completely change your garage.

Selection criteria, pros and cons

The choice of roof for a garage is determined by factors such as budget, design, convenience, and operating conditions. In this context, gable execution is valued for:

  • Possibility of more rational use of under-roof space.
  • Good sealing and drainage properties. Organizing a steep slope with this design is quite simple; gable roofs practically do not retain precipitation and snow on the surfaces.
  • Relatively simple construction technology and cost savings when doing the work yourself.
  • Reduce garage heating costs in winter due to good energy efficiency.
  • Making your garage look like it"s self-built.

The drawbacks are that the calculations are more complicated and more materials are used than with single-pitched garage buildings (though not as much as with roofs with many slopes).

Although there are no unique operational drawbacks to the design, there are stricter requirements for the foundation and roof structures once it is installed.

Device and design

An exterior roof like this has the shape of a basic isosceles triangle, with the lower slopes ending at the garage walls and the upper slopes converging in the center of the building at the ridge zone.

In these kinds of buildings, pediments are positioned on the wall opposite the gate and for practical and decorative reasons.

The garage roof is typically not glazed and is cold, but the under-roof space is still ventilated. Preference is given to non-flammable, metal roofing or materials within a comparable budget when selecting a coating.

The size of the garage determines the rafter frame design. It is advised to fasten the rafters in a hanging manner with two points of support—on the walls and in the ridge area—and one horizontal tie—in the event of a garage, which should be quite raised—when the span width is less than 14 meters (the standard construction option). Headstocks or struts can be used to reinforce the design, but they are not required for spans shorter than 6 meters.

The rafters are fastened in a layered fashion and strengthened with vertical supports if the garage and a sizable building area have internal load-bearing partitions. However, such a design is uncommon in private construction, partly because it requires complicated calculations and the redistribution of thrust loads.

Design features and calculations

Three primary parameters are to be determined by the calculation: the area of the slopes, their slope, and the height of the gable roof. The garage’s measurements, the local operating circumstances (such as snowfall and wind loads), and the specifics of the chosen coating comprise the initial data. The latter is chosen in turn according to the garage’s budget and wall and foundation load-bearing capacities.

The calculation starts by figuring out the roof slope. For a small- to medium-sized garage building, the ideal range is 20–30°. Raising the slope to 35° is advised when installing metal or composite tiles.

This amount is adequate for the autonomous removal of small amounts of snow and the prompt and safe removal of precipitation. However, the garage roof slope needs to be raised to 40–45° in areas with heavier snowfall.

Using the following formula, the height of the ridge is determined from the resultant value:

H=0.5√b∙tg a is the result of multiplying the slope angle’s tangent by half the garage span’s length.

As a result, the height of the garage roof seldom rises above 1.5 meters, which improves the estimate and makes installing the frame easier.

The length of the rafters is determined using the same value:

To ensure proper cornice arrangement and weather protection for the garage walls, an additional 30 to 50 centimeters is added to the estimated length of the rafters.

Here’s a basic formula to find the area of a single slope:

S=L∙D, where D is the length of the garage’s extended side after accounting for the roof’s extension over the gable cornice.

The latter ranges from 20 to 30 cm, with a minimum of 5 to 10 cm advised.

Finding the entire roof area yields:

The weight of the pie and the rafter frame are calculated using the obtained geometric parameters, preferably verified with a construction calculator first. The manufacturer typically indicates the load per 1 m2 from the roofing (and how that load changes with different slope slopes). The weight of the roof is increased by the amount of snow and wind loads, which are derived from climate tables.

Distance between rafters

The hardest part of creating a frame diagram is drawing one. The size of the garage and the weight loads are taken into consideration when choosing the rafters’ cross-section and pitch.

The steps in the algorithm that determine the precise amount are as follows:

  1. clarification of the length of the slope;
  2. dividing this value by the optimal or minimum allowable pitch of the rafters (determined from tables based on weight load and roof type);
  3. adding 1 to the result and rounding up;
  4. clarification of the actual pitch of the rafters and calculation of materials.

The table below displays the ideal rafter pitch as well as the suggested lumber cross-section, considering the kind of roof:

Roofing coating Recommended Step rafters, cm Sheathing frequency, cm Restrictions, additional.conditions
Slate 80 50-60 When the slope decreases, the frequency of the sheathing is reduced to 45 cm. It is not recommended to lay slate material on low-slope roofs
Metal tiles 60-90 with a leg cross section of at least 50x150mm Depends on the profile type and is specified by the manufacturer The distance between the first and second lathing strips differs from the main step and is calculated separately
Corrugated sheet 20-50 for brands of low hardness, 60-100 for high hardness When the weight of the sheet increases, it is recommended to increase the cross-section of the sheathing strips and vice versa.
Soft roof 60-150 Solid flooring Underlay waterproofing carpet is laid over the sheathing
Ondulin 60-100 with rafter section 50*200 40-50 with a slope of more than 15° On low-slope slopes, the sheathing is continuous
fold 60-90 20-40

It is simple to draw a comparison between the slope of the slopes and the type of sheathing. The recommended range of 20–30 ° is kept for garages for economical reasons: these buildings’ roof heights will remain modest, and thin sheathing is more affordable and better ventilated than solid sheathing.

Owing to the building’s secondary function, owners are generally free to select any convenient step between 60 and 140 cm. This parameter is chosen with the ideal range of 60-100 cm, taking into consideration the size of the insulation boards in pies with insulating layers.

Although installing a gable roof on your garage may seem difficult, you can save money and do it yourself if you follow the right instructions. This post will take you step-by-step through the entire process, from material procurement to finishing touches, making sure your new roof is durable and resilient to weather. You’ll have the self-assurance to take on this satisfying do-it-yourself project and improve the look and functionality of your garage by heeding these helpful pointers and strategies.

How to build: step by step instructions

When gradually constructing oneself:

  1. preparation of the base and materials is carried out;
  2. the garage walls holding the roof are reinforced with a Mauerlat;
  3. the frame is assembled, waterproofing is laid and sheathing is filled;
  4. the roof is covered with an outer covering.

The preparation of lumber receives special attention; boards and wood must be thoroughly dried and treated with fire retardants and antiseptics.

Mauerlat

The majority of the time, frame buildings or blocks are used to build garage walls. An unloading belt must be laid before the power plate is attached. However, this step can occasionally be omitted if you are sure of the foundation’s stability and the blocks’ strength, in which case the walls are just fastened with a support beam.

When laying the upper portions of the walls, fastenings beneath the Mauerlat are placed beforehand and kept apart from the wood by a waterproofing cut-off made of two layers of rolled or coated waterproofing. Wire or washers are used to fix the Mauerlat after landing and leveling the aircraft.

Rafter system

To make the work easier, it is advised to put the rafter pairs together at the bottom and attach them to the Mauerlat, beginning with the outer gable rafter pairs (provided take-out is given beforehand). In this instance, ties at the top (which is ideal when preparing to lay a long cornice and a small garage width) or at the bottom (which is advised for large spans) can strengthen the structures.

Not every system has a ridge beam installed; occasionally, two boards are used in its place or it is absent. Elements are fastened with self-tapping screws, metal plates, and nails.

Lathing

Roll waterproofing is applied over the rafters in an overlapped pattern after the strength and evenness of the frame have been verified, and the sheathing is stuffed, beginning at the bottom of the slope. Sheathing is made discharged when the slope of the slopes is greater than 15° and the roof can support itself well. Roll roofing or soft tiles are placed beneath a continuous flooring.

Roof

Installing the covering, organizing and caulking the cornices and ridge area, fastening any gutters, and lining the gables finish the job.

In the event that laying a pediment made of blocks is not feasible—an ideal, albeit pricey, solution—the side sections are covered with sheet materials.

Roof fixing is done while keeping in mind the manufacturer’s specifications, and all joints and attachment points are sealed.

Single-pitch or double-pitch – which is better??

Many developers would rather cover the garage with a single slope in order to save money and time, as the gable roof structure is not universally regarded as the best option. The table displays the findings of a comparison between the benefits and drawbacks of single- and gable roofs:

Design parameters Garage roof type
Single-pitch Gable
Construction time Comparable
Complexity of the project and calculations The simplest execution The calculation is more complex, but does not require special skills
Construction cost Minimum The estimate increases by 20-30%
Load resistance High to wind, requires reinforcement or manual snow removal at low slope slope High, snow melts off surfaces faster
Strength Medium, due to the increase in the size of the ramp span High
Use as an extension +
Possibility of using internal space +
Step Description
1. Planning Measure the garage dimensions and plan the roof design. Decide on the slope angle and materials.
2. Framing Build the roof frame using sturdy beams. Attach the ridge beam at the peak and rafters from the beam to the walls.
3. Sheathing Cover the frame with plywood or OSB boards to create a solid base for roofing materials.
4. Roofing Install roofing felt and shingles or metal sheets, starting from the bottom edge and working upwards.
5. Finishing Add ridge caps, flashing, and gutters to ensure the roof is weatherproof and complete.

Although installing a gable roof on your garage may seem difficult, it is completely doable with the correct methods and equipment. You can make sure your roof is both strong and attractive by meticulously organizing and carrying out each step.

Make sure your materials are of the highest caliber and your measurements are precise to start from a strong base. Long-term benefits from taking your time with the initial framing include a solid foundation for the remainder of your construction.

Next, it’s important to correctly assemble the rafters and ridge beam. To ensure everything is secure, double-check all connections and use the appropriate fasteners. This is where the structure starts to take shape, so accuracy is essential.

To protect your garage from the weather and finish the design, add the roofing material and finishing touches. Make sure it is installed correctly to avoid leaks and other problems, regardless of the material you choose—metal, shingles, or something else entirely.

You can successfully install a gable roof on your garage if you are patient and pay close attention to detail. You’ll get useful skills and a sense of achievement in addition to improving the look and functionality of your garage.

Video on the topic

We are building a garage! / Rafter system / Gable roof / Mauerlat / Floor beams (June 2024)

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Fedor Pavlov

Interior designer, author of books on residential design. I will help you make your home not only functional, but also beautiful.

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