On the street

You can greatly increase both the appeal and enjoyment of your home by designing and implementing beautiful and useful outdoor spaces. There are many ways to maximize your outdoor spaces, whether you have a small patio or a large garden. There are countless options available, ranging from tips on outdoor furniture and décor to ideas for landscaping.

We will look at many facets of outdoor building and remodeling in this post. You’ll get ideas for creating attractive pathways, comfortable patios, and delightful garden accents. We’ll also go over the necessary upkeep to keep your outdoor areas looking great all year round.

We can help you with both large-scale outdoor renovation projects and small-scale yard sprucing up projects. Explore to get ideas, advice, and strategies for designing an outdoor area that suits your needs and expresses your personal style.

Is it possible to do it in the yard??

This design can be used in open-street areas as long as the primary components meet the technical requirements. This is because most floor screeds are made using Portland cement, which is a hydraulic leader with varying indicators of strength, frost resistance, and water permeability.

In addition to ensuring strength and dependability or providing a solid foundation for the finishing coat of pathways or other hard-working areas, outdoor floor screed must completely satisfy the highest standards to avoid collapsing under the relentlessly hostile influence of the surrounding environment.

Making major changes to your outdoor area can improve your home’s appearance and usability. There are various ways to improve your outside space, such as creating a practical driveway, a vibrant garden, or a cozy patio. Any outdoor space can be transformed into the ideal place for entertainment, leisure, or daily living with the correct supplies, preparation, and a little imagination. With the help of this guide, you will create a beautiful, long-lasting outdoor area that fits your needs and aesthetic.

Operational and design requirements for the screed

Street concrete floors must meet the following operational and design requirements, which ensure the long-term, faultless operation of the entire hard surface structure without the need for significant maintenance or replacement:

  • The strength and load-bearing capacity of the screed are characterized by the preservation of its structure and shape under the influence of maximum design operating loads. As a rule, in outdoor conditions, the strength of the concrete screed should not be lower than 40 – 50 MPa, which ensures the unhindered movement of people, as well as light wheeled vehicles at medium speeds.
  • This concrete structure is constantly exposed to various aggressive influences, ranging from increased operational loads to the constant influence of precipitation and temperature changes. Thus, experts recommend laying a minimum screed thickness of 100 – 120 mm or more. The minimum thickness should not be less than 70 mm, and the maximum permissible thickness of one layer on the street is 200 mm, which can be considered a full-fledged reinforced concrete slab.
  • The abrasion of the top layer of concrete screed should not be less than 0.9 – 1.1 g/cm 2, and, subject to the organization of passages for cars, from 1.2 g/cm 2 or more, which ensures its reliability and durability.
  • Operating a concrete floor screed outdoors in central Russia always implies that it will be subject to temperature changes during the cold season, which requires increased frost resistance – from F100 and above.
  • Frost resistance described above is also ensured due to the minimum amount of moisture that can easily penetrate into the structure of the concrete structure through the pores between the aggregates after it hardens. Thus, for long-term operation, the water resistance of concrete must exceed W6.
  • To screed the floor on open areas made of concrete, the use of cement with a strength grade from M400 to M500 is required, which will make it possible to achieve a load-bearing capacity class of the finished structure B20 – B25 and higher.
  • All outdoor floor structures, or rough foundations for hard surfaces, must be reinforced with one or two layers of mesh. The best solution would be to use a road mesh with a steel bar thickness of 5 to 6 mm and a cell between the crosshairs of 100×100 mm. In addition, some modern concrete mixtures also contain aramid fiber, which provides volumetric reinforcement of the entire structure, greatly increasing the period of its trouble-free operation.
  • Any cement-sand screed must contain fine aggregate, which is quartz sand with a fraction of 3 to 5 mm, in an amount of up to 60% – 65% of the total volume of the structure.
  • In some high-strength screeds that are installed on the street made of heavy concrete, coarse aggregate must be present. It is granite crushed stone, the fraction of which can reach up to 15 – 20 mm, and greatly increases the load-bearing capacity of the entire structure.

It is always advised to review the quality passport’s technical specifications for each future screed ingredient in order to meet these requirements. Additionally, a technical specification should be created based on the site’s coating operation, outlining the essential parameters as well as mechanical and physical indicators that guarantee the stability and strength of the entire structure.

What documents is it regulated by??

The normative documents or SPs that are in effect in our nation provide a detailed description of all the requirements mentioned above. Additionally, designers and builders can rely on numerical indicators that serve as a basis for their work, as well as various inspections and examinations of the project conducted by controlling state bodies.

  • SP 71.13330.2017. Insulating and finishing coatings.
  • GOST 13087-2018. Concrete. Methods for determining abrasion.
  • SP 63.13330.2018. Concrete and reinforced concrete structures.
  • GOST 31489-2012. Garage equipment. Safety requirements and control methods.
  • SP 29.13330.201.1. Floors.
  • SP 34.13330.2012. Car roads.

Every manufacturer who is formally registered in our nation produces the necessary recipe and specifications (technical conditions) based on these regulatory documents.

Prototypes are chosen from each batch as the product is being made, and after they pass regular laboratory testing, the plant management is given a certificate attesting to their compliance with these state regulations.

This allows the manufacturer to guarantee the consumer the maximum load-bearing capacity of the floor screed in outdoor spaces and grants the manufacturer the authority to issue a quality certificate for the building material.

Construction and pie

The street’s concrete floor is a responsible load-bearing structure made up of multiple layers that are layered one on top of the other in a sequential manner. These layers of concrete screed in open areas vary in thickness within the following ranges, which are dictated by operating conditions, project requirements, regulatory documentation, and strength calculations:

  • Replaced base soil, usually a sand-gravel mixture with a thickness of 200 – 600 mm, layer-by-layer compacted to a degree of 0.95 or more.
  • Geotextile, non-woven material, to prevent plant germination and disruption of the structure of the screed, replacing the foundation soil with roots, stems or other parts.
  • In the case of organizing screeds under roads, on heaving clay soils, it is recommended to lay a damping layer to organize a floating structure – high-density extruded polystyrene foam – from 35 – 45 kg/m 3, layer thickness – 50 mm.
  • Distance spacers – plastic chairs for reinforcement of the screed slab.
  • Reinforcement of a reinforced concrete structure – road mesh, or a flat knitted frame made of rod reinforcement.
  • Pouring concrete with the required consistency and proportions of binding ingredients, fine and coarse aggregates, plasticizers, antifreeze additives.
  • A device for penetrating waterproofing or liquid glass to close all pores to prevent atmospheric moisture from entering the pores of the concrete structure.
  • Ironing the screed with cement laitance or dough, or installing a finishing surface – asphalt concrete, paving stones, artificial turf, paving slabs or other materials intended for outdoor use.

To prevent erosion of the soil base and enhance the overall strength and durability of the structure, experts and designers advise installing ring drainage when installing a concrete floor on a street in a potentially flooded area where seasonal groundwater rise may surpass critical levels.

What kind of concrete is suitable??

For outdoor floor screeding The only appropriate concrete is special concrete, which possesses the following features in terms of its composition, functionality, and technical aspects:

  • The strength class of concrete must be at least B20 – B22.5.
  • Recommended strength class when installing concrete screeds under roads – B25 – B30.
  • Concrete frost resistance index – from F100 or more.
  • Concrete waterproof class – from W6 and above.
  • The mobility of the concrete mixture after preparation is P3 or P4, if we are talking about a wet screed.
  • The composition of the concrete should contain 15% – 20% of high-quality cement grade M400 – M500, fine aggregate – from 50% or more, as well as crushed stone, provided that the thickness of the structure exceeds 100 mm – from 25% – 35%.
  • When concreting a screed in the cold season, anti-frost additives will be required to reduce the risk of water crystallization before the end of the chemical reaction.
  • If an extended section of hard street pavement is to be concreted, it is recommended to add plasticizers to the concrete mixture in advance, which delay the setting period of the material to 3 – 6 hours, versus 40 minutes – 1.5 hours.
  • The concrete may also contain aramid fibers for structural reinforcement, especially if we are talking about applying the material by machine, in a semi-dry state, followed by leveling and compaction with paddle smoothers.

The grade of concrete is established following the creation of a design diagram, which shows a flat plate with a chosen rigidity resting on an elastic soil base and subject to internal forces resulting from temperature variations in addition to vertical and horizontal operational loads.

The stressed-strained sections of the structure, as well as the necessary reinforcement of the slab, the thickness of the concrete layer, class, and other physical and mechanical characteristics, are determined based on the static calculation and the conditions of limit equilibrium.

Making your own solution

Hire a contractor with the right machinery and other equipment if you need to organize work over a large area, like concrete open areas next to shopping centers or industrial buildings.

These companies establish a contract with the client, usually execute it promptly, and the final design eliminates all defects because of meticulous adherence to the technological map. Concrete is typically ordered from the factory with precise observance of all proportions.

You are permitted to do this type of work yourself if the summer cottage in question is less than one hectare in size. The process of making a concrete mixture for the street screed is explained in detail below, along with a list of all the materials and tools needed and comprehensive step-by-step instructions for kneading the final product.

Using an electric mixer, the solution is made, and then all of the ingredients for the concrete are added one after the other (following the previously established recipe). The most common addition rates for cement, sand, and crushed stone are 25% x 45% x 30%. Water is added to the dry mixture, dosed in two to three liters, once all the dry ingredients have been combined into a homogenous mass.

The solution takes on a plastic consistency and the necessary level of mobility when water is added. Plasticizers and antifreeze additives can be added to the final liquid or plate solution in a sequential manner, if needed.

An informative video regarding the formulation and setup of the solution:

This publication contains instructions on how to prepare the solution and what proportions of each component are needed.

What tools are needed for the job??

The following collection of tools and electrical equipment is required for the autonomous preparation of a concrete mix used in concreting screed for open areas on the land plot:

  • Mixer with an electric motor and a receiving container volume of 150 – 200 liters.
  • In the absence of a mixer and a small volume of screed, it is allowed to use a whisk attachment on a powerful drill, as well as a tank of at least 25 – 30 liters, but the work time will be significantly extended.
  • Vibrating rammer for compacting the foundation soil before screeding.
  • Shovel for dosing inert materials and cement into the mixer receiving hopper.
  • It is also advisable to use scales with a division value of no more than 100 g in order to accurately calculate the ingredients when adding antifreeze additives or plasticizers.
  • Household scissors or a construction knife for opening bags with a cement leader.
  • A stretcher or wheelbarrow for transporting concrete mixture from the mixing site to placement in the structure.
  • A trowel or rule for smoothing the mortar after it has been distributed over the entire plane of the screed.
  • Deep vibrator for compacting concrete mixture after laying.
  • Heat gun for heating concrete, if concreting is carried out in the cold season.

Defects are almost entirely eliminated when all tools and equipment are in good working order, dust- and dirt-free, and fully prepared for use.

Step-by-step instructions for the device

The reliability and durability of the future structure are determined by the correct installation of concrete screeds in open areas, parking lots, landscaping areas of neighboring areas, and park areas. This is a responsible task. It is advised to adhere to every recommendation on the following technological map in order to complete all tasks accurately and produce the desired outcome:

  1. The location of the future open area with hard surface is marked on the site.
  2. The pegs are beaten down along the perimeter of the future screed, a nylon lace is pulled. For such purposes, it is recommended to resort to the services of surveyors so as not to make a mistake with the dimensions or configuration.
  3. The vegetation layer is removed, after which the soil base is removed to the required level, according to the project.
  4. The sand and gravel mixture is poured into the resulting trough and compacted. Compaction is carried out using vibratory rammers with a force of at least 5 tons, with 5 – 7 penetrations along one track.
  5. A flange of boards is installed along the entire perimeter of the screed.
  6. At the bottom of the trough, if the project provides for this engineering equipment, a ring drainage is installed, the reshaped pipes of which are covered with geotextile and filled with granite crushed stone to avoid the structure becoming overgrown with silt during operation.
  7. A layer of waterproofing insulation, geotextile, and other membrane layers are placed on top of the compacted base, according to the requirements of the project.
  8. Chairs are exhibited to support the grid based on the required amount – 1 unit by 3 – 4 crosses.
  9. Reinforcing mesh is laid into the future structure with the cards overlapping by at least 1–2 cells.
  10. The entire structure is concreted until the desired level is reached, which is pre-cut with a laser level and outlined along the perimeter of the formwork.
  11. Wait time for the solution to polymerize and begin to harden – at least 6 – 24 hours.
  12. You can walk on the screed no earlier than after 2 days, and 100% strength of concrete class B25 – B30 with a thickness of 120 – 150 mm is achieved in at least 25 – 28 days.

It is advised to take care of the concrete mixture after the screed has been concreted. In cold climates, heating the hardening structure’s surface beneath heat-insulating mats with gas or diesel guns is necessary.

Since cement is a hydraulic binder and only hardens in a humid environment, it is advised to spill the screed with water if it is done in the dry summer months.

Under the car

In the event that installing a concrete screed in a parking lot or beneath driveways is required, several crucial considerations must be made:

  • It is necessary to install a floating screed to prevent skewing and tilting of the structure during operation, or from heaving of the soil base in the spring.
  • If a public parking lot is being concreted, cuts should be made from a board or aluminum batten every 6 – 7 m to prevent the formation of temperature cracks in the spring season.
  • When concreting a screed, not only lower working reinforcement may be required, but also an upper structural control grid, which will completely prevent the formation of shrinkage cracks.
  • When creating a slope, you should arrange a ladder with a knee and a diverting sewer pipe designed for increased mechanical loads, which should be directed to the nearest ditch.
  • Concreting is performed from concrete with a class of at least B25.
  • It is necessary to treat the upper plane of the screed with special compounds to avoid its rapid physical wear, or arrange a layer of finishing coating from concrete, paving stones or paving slabs.
  • It is recommended to start using the finished structure for car parking no earlier than 2 – 3 weeks later, to avoid destruction of the recently cast concrete slab.

It is important to remember that the concrete structure beneath the driveways needs to have a slope as well as a place to collect rainwater from the car’s wheels. For this reason, it is advised to beat off reference points with the required elevation marks before beginning any work.

On the old coating

When a concrete screed is laid on top of an existing structure that has been subjected to years of heavy use and physical deterioration, technology is frequently employed in practice. A few crucial details must be considered when concreting such a structure:

  • The old screed must be completely cleaned of dust, dirt and foreign matter.
  • During separation, all large and small particles must be removed from it.
  • To obtain a continuous structure, it is recommended to bend the protruding reinforcement into the body of the future structure and inextricably tie it to the mesh of the new screed.
  • If the old screed has large differences in height due to subsidence of the soil base, it is recommended to build a new concrete structure in 2 layers: the first is leveling, the second is the main, structural one.
  • It is recommended to take the old screed as an elastic, but not absolutely rigid base when calculating the strength of the structure of the driveway or other covering of the site in use.
  • Before concreting a new screed, the existing concrete should also be tested for strength using non-destructive methods to determine the load-bearing capacity of the given foundation.
  • In the case when the old screed has a large capacity, and, in accordance with the design, the height of concreting of the new structure is significantly limited, the old layer should be milled using special power equipment, which can be rented.
  • If the old screed only partially covers the structure area for hard surfaces on the street, it will always be in contact with the compacted soil base, which will cause a sharp stress concentration. In such cases, it is recommended to thicken the floor slab in places where the base material has changed.

It is advised to disassemble the old screed in the event that it is totally destroyed and to use small portions of it as a compacted base layer beneath the concrete structure. Using an entirely destroyed old screed as a solid incompressible foundation is not advised.

Screeding tool for aged concrete

Features of creating a heated floor

In contrast to interior heated rooms, if the outdoor screed—which is installed to prevent the formation of ice in pedestrian walkway areas—is intended to be heated, there are a number of noteworthy differences in such designs.

  • As a rule, heated floors outdoors are made only electric, since the risk of the coolant freezing in the winter is completely eliminated.
  • The maximum surface temperature of such a screed, as a rule, does not exceed +3 – 5 °C, because this engineering system does not imply heating the room, but only promotes the melting of snow and ice, which significantly reduces the risk of a person falling and getting injured
  • To organize heating, it is necessary to install polystyrene foam insulation under the screed to eliminate heat losses during its operation.
  • If there is a heated floor and screed reinforcement, the thickness of the structure should be 120 – 150 mm, for structural reasons.
  • When installing asphalt, paving slabs or other finished street floor covering, it should be taken into account that any material reduces heating efficiency, since it has a certain indicator of thermal resistance to heat transfer.
  • To organize a warm electric floor with a heating cable, in order to avoid a short circuit, a dedicated line with its own circuit breaker in the panel is required to eliminate the risk of a short circuit.

Warm outdoor floor:

It should be noted that the heating cable has a certain electricity consumption. As a result, it is necessary to calculate the thermal power and the number of dedicated lines and machines when organizing screed heating on the street. It is also advised to zone this system into multiple sections when the site is large.

How long does it take to dry and what are the rules of care after pouring??

It is advised to give the screed appropriate attention as soon as it is poured outside and to wait to operate it or apply heavier loads until the strength gain is fully achieved. In particular:

  • The screed begins to set and gain strength after 2-4 hours after pouring, which requires the complete completion of all work on its installation.
  • Walking on the screed is allowed when it has gained at least 25% – 30% of its full mechanical strength, namely, 2-3 days after pouring.
  • Full hardening of the structure depends on the class of concrete, plasticizers, as well as on the power of the slab, is from 2 to 4 weeks after installation.
  • To gain the design strength, given that cement is a hydraulic binder, the next day after setting, it is recommended to pour water on the screed.
  • If work is carried out in the cold season, it should be taken into account that the screed gains strength at positive temperatures. This means that for normal hardening of the structure it is required to cover it with special heat-insulating mats, as well as install a heat gun to maintain normal temperature and humidity conditions.
  • If concreting the screed is carried out at sub-zero temperatures, in order to avoid crystallization of water, a heating cable of the PNSV type should be laid in advance at the level of the reinforcement mesh of the structure, and then connected to the TMT of the installed power. The concrete is heated for at least 3 – 5 days until the screed strength reaches at least 40% of the design value.

Neglecting these guidelines for maintaining a street-side concrete screed results in a notable reduction in its strength, an elevated risk of delamination, and the loss of the majority of its operational properties.

How and with what to level a concrete surface?

In the middle region of our nation, a concrete floor becomes uneven and uncomfortable to drive or walk on after a comparatively short time of use. This is because the cracks and settling of the flat surface cause problems with vision. The following techniques can be used to quickly solve this problem, as needed:

  1. Small defects can be removed by simple grinding using abrasives, a grinder or a drill.
  2. Large potholes, traces of delamination of the upper structure, require milling.
  3. After milling, in order to achieve a high-quality and even surface, it is recommended to install a layer of polymer self-leveling floor, or a duplicate cement-sand screed, provided that the design elevation of the base allows this to be done without exceeding the height of the entire coating.
  4. Installation of paving slabs, covering the structure with asphalt concrete or paving stones using a dry mixture, followed by watering.
  5. Installation of a waterproofing layer, or organization of coating with a polymer film with an elastic structure intended for outdoor use.
  6. Treatment of small defects and shrinkage cracks with repair compounds, followed by painting the structure with a special polymer substance for concrete.

The degree of physical wear and any planning height restrictions will determine how likely it is to be possible to restore the surface by leveling the top coating. It is advised that the project include some sort of finishing coating made of materials resistant to frost for external use beforehand in order to achieve an exact level surface during the pouring stage.

Protection and processing

Street concrete screed is continuously subjected to high mechanical static and dynamic loads, as well as harsh environmental factors. The screed is exposed to strong summer sun and rains; in the winter, ice forms on it, melts, and the water freezes once more. Its physical wear and rapid delamination are caused by this.

The following categories of protective compounds should be applied for longevity and prevention:

  • Penetrating polymer compounds.
  • Painting in several layers of polymer elastic, moisture-proof and wear-resistant paint and varnish compositions.
  • Treatment of concrete with liquid glass with minimal porosity.
  • Installation of coating or adhesive waterproofing.
  • Ironing the top layer of the screed with dry cement, dough, or milk.
  • Polymer film device.
  • Installation of a backup layer of screed made of high-strength cement-sand mixture.
  • Installation of self-leveling floor for external use.

If superior materials are utilized, the coating’s service life can reach ten or fifteen years. The lifespan is typically limited to three to five years if the treatment with polymer substances of increased strength and density is skipped; at that point, the screed needs to be replaced, repaired, or restored.

Further details regarding concrete coating:

There is another article about strengthening and safeguarding concrete screed on the street on our website.

What can be used to cover the top??

When a street-side concrete floor screed experiences continuous, heavy use, the top coating quickly experiences physical wear and tear. As a result, the surface of the screed loses its aesthetic appeal, starts to collect dust, and greasy stains start to appear on it because of its porous structure. The following kinds of building materials are frequently used to cover the structure on top in order to prevent this:

  • Asphalt concrete or bitumen-based sandstone.
  • Paving stones with different patterns and shapes, as well as with different thicknesses and overall dimensions.
  • Paving slabs of different sizes.
  • Polymer concrete coatings, widely used on private plots.
  • Perforated concrete blocks, with further arrangement of eco-parking when planting a lawn.
  • Polymer bulk compositions with small granite inclusions that prevent slipping.
  • Paint and varnish compositions with a rough surface.
  • Polymer anti-slip film.

The best option for building pedestrian areas would be to use concrete tiles or paving stones. When arranging driveways, asphalt concrete pavement ought to be utilized. The remaining high-tech polymer facing materials are typically utilized in non-intensive areas of the house.

The best way to cover a screed outside and the benefits of painting or self-leveling flooring are covered in separate, helpful articles.

Advantages and disadvantages

Because concrete screed on the street has so many benefits, it is frequently used in factories, logistics complexes, summer cottages, and large residential or public building improvement areas.

Advantages

  • Increased strength, wear resistance, reliability and durability of the structure.
  • Subject to correct filling and the use of high-quality materials, the outdoor screed can be used for at least 10 – 15 years, without the need for major repairs or replacement.
  • Excellent weather resistance against precipitation and temperature changes.
  • The design can have almost any thickness and configuration.
  • Poured in one step, without joints, forming an unbroken plane.
  • A reliable foundation for any type of external covering under driveways and pedestrian areas.
  • Increased water resistance of the structure.
  • Possibility of using reinforcement, which reduces the risk of deflections and deformations even when the soil base settles.
  • High level of maintainability.
  • Possibility of mixing concrete and screeding with your own hands, without the involvement of professionals.
  • Basic and auxiliary materials are widely sold at identical prices, regardless of the region of sale.

However, because of a few drawbacks, this design is frequently swapped out for prefabricated slabs or other contemporary building materials.

Minuses:

  • The presence of a large number of wet processes.
  • Seasonality of work.
  • Difficulty in maintaining the finished structure.
  • Long period of strength development – from 2 to 4 weeks until complete hardening and achievement of the design load-bearing capacity.
  • Brittle material often cracks when the soil base tilts or subsides.
  • High cost of ready-mixed concrete compared to many other types of building materials.
  • The full screed on the street must have a thickness of at least 70 – 80 mm, and the recommended thickness is from 100 to 120 mm, which requires cutting out a deep trough and is also accompanied by increased labor costs for the site owner.
  • Requires a compacted base of sand and gravel mixture.
  • Large labor costs in the production of the entire complex of works.
  • The complexity of constructing a concrete or reinforced concrete screed with a perfectly flat surface; almost always the upper plane of the structure requires modification.

Therefore, it is advised to create a technical specification beforehand, ascertain the operational requirements for the proposed structure, and then create a detailed design that includes every layer of the hard surface pie before deciding to install a concrete screed in an open space.

Cost of work and materials

Given that concrete screed on the street is a popular landscaping technique for property owners, a lot of contractors frequently provide full construction services at the average retail prices listed below:

  • Concrete screed without reinforcement, on a pre-prepared base with a thickness of 70 mm – from 300 – 400 rubles. for 1 m 2 .
  • Concrete screed reinforced with road mesh or rod with knitted reinforcement, thickness from 100 to 150 mm, on a pre-prepared base – from 500 to 600 rubles. for 1 m 2 .
  • Concrete screed, with reinforcement, a thickness of more than 100 mm and the installation of a complete pie – heat-hydro-vapor barrier, as well as layer-by-layer compacted soil cushion – from 700 – 1000 rubles. for 1 m 2 .

The owner should buy the following kinds of widely accessible building materials when independently manufacturing such a concrete structure on the property:

  1. Ready-made factory-made building materials purchased on the markets:
  2. Sand concrete M300 – 130 – 140 rub./40 kg.
  3. Sand concrete M400 – 170 – 180 rub./40 kg.
  4. High-strength sand concrete grade M500 – from 220 rubles./40 kg.
  5. Portland cement with strength grade M400–M500 – 500–800 rubles. for 50 kg.
  6. Fine and coarse aggregate for concrete (sand and crushed stone):
  7. Quartz quarry sand of medium size, or coarse / washed fine river aggregate – from 2250 – 2600 / 2800 – 3300 rubles. per 1 m 3 .
  8. Crushed stone on granite, with angular edges, washed, fine fraction – from 5250 – 6400 rubles. per 1 m 3 .
  9. Polymer or organic fillers for concrete that enhance its physical and mechanical properties:
  10. Antifreeze additives up to -10 – 15 oC – 450 – 550 rub. for 10 l.
  11. Plasticizers for long-term retention of concrete in a liquid state before setting – 370 – 420 rubles. for 10 l.
  12. Modifying additives for concrete mix – 300 – 500 rubles. for 10 l.
  13. Epoxy resins with hardeners that significantly reduce porosity – 200 – 350 rubles. for 5 l.
  14. Methyl acrylates and other penetrating polymer additives – 70 – 150 rubles. for 1 l.
  15. Hydrophobizing ingredients, enveloping the concrete plane with an invisible, water-impermeable film – from 3400 – 5600 rubles. for 20 l.
  16. Reinforcing road mesh:
  17. Road high-strength mesh d5 – d7 A500s, with a cell of 100×100 mm – 450 – 700 rubles. for 1 m 2, supplied in cards with different dimensions, according to GOST.
  18. Rod reinforcement with periodic profile d5 – d10 A500s – 35 – 65 rub./kg, 35 – 52 thousand. rub. for 1 t.
  19. Waterproofing membranes, vapor barrier films, insulation boards:
  20. Vapor barrier films – 1.6 – 2.1 thousand. rub. for 45 – 100 m2, supplied in rolls.
  21. Rolled bitumen or high-strength polymer waterproofing – 1.85 – 5.15 thousand. rub. for 5.5 – 22.5 m2, depending on the composition, thickness of the membrane, structure and physical and mechanical characteristics of the material.
  22. Plates made of extruded polystyrene foam with interlocking joints along the perimeter of the end faces – 4.8 – 7.8 thousand. rub. per 1 m 3 .

When hiring teams or individual craftsmen, the cost of building materials is typically 50% to 70% of the total cost of the work involved in creating these screeds.

The quantity of goods in a batch, the sales region, the season, the logistics’ complexity, the facility’s distance from the city, and the supplier’s or contractor’s internal marketing policy are some of the factors that could cause the above prices to change slightly.

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Any outdoor construction or renovation project must take into account the special opportunities and challenges provided by the surrounding environment. For example, the weather can have a big influence on the materials you select and the project’s timeline. To ensure the longevity of your work, make sure you choose materials that are resilient to changing weather conditions.

Integrating your project with the surrounding landscape is another essential component. Carefully considered design can improve the area’s usefulness while also enhancing its beauty. A harmonious and welcoming ambiance can be produced by incorporating natural elements with your construction, whether it’s a patio, garden, or outdoor living area.

In any outdoor construction project, safety should always come first. To ensure the safety of the employees and any future users of the space, make sure you abide by all applicable building codes and regulations. Accidents can be avoided and a successful project completion can be guaranteed with careful planning and strict adherence to safety regulations.

Lastly, never undervalue the significance of expert counsel and support. Speaking with professionals can help you avoid common pitfalls and gain insightful information. Making educated decisions will produce better results and a more enjoyable outdoor space, regardless of whether you’re hiring professionals or taking on a do-it-yourself project.

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Konstantin Zhukov

Gardener, landscape designer. I will help you create a beautiful and functional landscape design for your site.

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