Pouring a garage floor with concrete

Pouring the concrete floor is one of the most important steps in building or remodeling a garage. In addition to giving your cars a solid and long-lasting base, this foundational work greatly strengthens the garage’s overall structural integrity. Because they are strong and resilient and can withstand a variety of weather conditions and heavy loads, concrete floors are highly preferred.

Complete preparation is the first step in the concrete pouring process for a garage floor. This include preparing the area where the garage will be by leveling and clearing it. Compaction of the soil correctly is necessary to avoid problems with settlement later on. After that, a sturdy structure made of metal or wood forms is built to hold the concrete while it is poured and shaped. By using these forms, the proper depth and dimensions of the concrete pour are guaranteed.

The mixing and pouring of the concrete phase starts after the preparation is finished. Because of its reliability and ease of use, ready-mix concrete is frequently utilized. After mixing the concrete per the manufacturer’s instructions, it is poured into the forms that have been ready. It’s critical to evenly distribute the concrete while pouring to prevent sudden thickness variations that can weaken the floor’s finish and strength.

Using instruments like a bull float and a darby, the concrete must be leveled and smoothed after it has been poured. This procedure helps to eliminate excess water and air pockets from the concrete mixture and guarantees a level surface. The surface can be left with a smooth trowel finish or textured with a broom for improved traction, depending on the desired finish.

Concrete requires time to properly cure after it has been leveled and textured. The crucial curing process is when the concrete progressively becomes more durable and strong. Depending on the particular mix and weather, it usually entails keeping the concrete damp and shielded from high temperatures for a few days or even weeks.

Following the curing period, the forms can be taken out and any final touches can be applied, like sealing the concrete to improve its appearance and durability. Concrete floors that are carefully poured and dried provide a strong base for your garage and guarantee years of dependable use with little upkeep.

Materials for backfill

Take gravel or crushed stone for backfilling? In principle, both are suitable, but for concrete it is still preferable to use crushed stone of fine and medium fractions. Because gravel is similar in roundness to pebbles, and therefore even with fine gravel you will not be able to achieve the required backfill density. No matter how you put these pebbles, no matter how hard you compact them, they won’t flatten perfectly. Accordingly, the strength of the foundation will be questionable. A moving, loose bottom can lead to deformation of the concrete slab and it will burst. Crushed stone in this sense is simply ideal – its corners are sharp, they fit into puzzles like a mosaic, and are well compacted. So buy crushed stone: take it in the ratio of two-thirds medium size, one-third fine size.

However, you can use any kind of sand—coarse or fine. Just ensure that it is free of clay.

By the way, some garage owners generally use only sand as a cushion under a concrete floor. This happens where the soil is loose. Then there is nothing to compact them, and the only way out is to make high-quality reinforcement of the concrete floor, and cast the slab itself with increased thickness. This will save it from deformation not due to the density of the soil layer, but by redistributing the load from the car to the entire slab. Well, to put it simply, it’s like skis that don’t sink into the snow due to their large surface. Likewise, a thick concrete slab with good reinforcement will neutralize the load from the wheels on the floor, redistributing it over the entire area of ​​the concrete.

Making a pillow for a concrete floor

By now, you have removed the level and leveled the pit’s bottom. You have also removed any extra soil. We take great care to fill in any remaining potholes or depressions; otherwise, the slab may move on uneven surfaces, necessitating a start over. We managed with a shovel up until this point, but now we need to manually tamp the ground; it would be even better if someone rented out a vibrating platform. We bring the soil down to a compacted level while periodically checking the plane.

Wait before pouring it all over the garage. Compaction of a layer of 10 cm is impossible, so begin raking gradually, 3–4 cm at a time. All is well, let’s begin the compacting process. Thus, we place it down gradually.

Tightly compacting the first layer—which should ideally be pressed into the ground and adjacent—is crucial. This soil compaction raises the base’s bearing capacity and stops concrete from shrinking.

You’re aware of the urgent place you need to be. That’s for sure; not here. Once the initial layer has been compacted, step on it. If the tracks are not visible, the task is finished. Continue compacting the remaining parts.

Place the sand in sections with continuous compaction and on top of the crushed stone. A couple of centimeters’ worth of layering came first, followed by more and more. You just need to wet it after the final compaction. The layer landmarks indicate that the already-wet sand has been compacted once more.

When water is poured all the way through, the best compaction is obtained. Wetting the cushion for a few hours will make it very sturdy.

Construction of an inspection pit

We excavate an inspection pit that is the same width as the wheels, leaving at least one meter between it and the walls on either side. Discover the length and depth for yourself when you are at ease with it. The pit will undoubtedly float if the groundwater table in your area is low enough (less than 2.5 meters). It is preferable to drop the idea in this instance.

The hole is made in this way:

1. We estimate the markings taking into account the thickness of the brick or how you will lay it out. To make it clear: to the required width of the hole we add on both sides a brick.
2. Digging a pit, leveling the floor and walls. Here we lay a groove for the ventilation pipe. Decide in advance where to take it out. They usually lead through the foundation or wall.
3. We fill the bottom with crushed stone and sand in layers of 10 cm each with compaction.
4. We cover it with roofing felt or film, we get a bathtub with waterproofing.
5. We install a ventilation duct in the form of a plastic pipe from the floor of the pit.

For the pit’s walls, you can use blocks in place of bricks. Plastering can then be used to refine them. Pouring formwork on the walls is too time-consuming and labor-intensive, so I wouldn’t advise it. Concrete is poured into the bottom in a layer that is 5-7 cm thick.

Damper gap

Basic knowledge of physics is enough to understand why it is needed. In summer, any materials expand; in winter, under the influence of low temperatures, they contract. It is believed that a concrete screed is capable of “playing” with differences of about a centimeter in linear dimensions. Therefore, temperature compensation is needed to preserve the coating. Plus insulation from walls and sealing of joints. That"s why the floor is made autonomous, "floating". To do this, a special gap is made along the walls of the garage and the concrete slab. The technology is primitive – just lay foam plastic cut into strips or buy damper tape at a hardware store. Foam thickness 10cm, width 15. Whatever comes out on top, then cut it off with a knife.

Floor waterproofing

Car bodies are at the mercy of humidity. Additionally, if your spouse took everything old and put it in the garage, the moisture will cause it all to break down. Adding waterproofing helps keep moisture out. Ordinary dense polyethylene (250 microns density) layered on top of a layer of sand will suffice if your groundwater table is low. However, I would still suggest using waterproofing to keep moisture in the concrete so that it has time to strengthen before the water seeps into the sand, even if you live in a dry climate. However, if groundwater is nearby, it is preferable to use hydroisolon or a comparable product.

The image illustrates how the insulation is installed, with at least 15 centimeters of overlap. In order to cover the damper gasket, the sheets are also positioned on the walls. Just in case, use electrical tape to seal the sheet joints.

Reinforcement

Using chain-link mesh as reinforcement is a common error. Some masters occasionally work such miracles. The desire to cut costs eventually leads to significant issues.

To begin with, why is reinforcement applied in theory? to impart flexural strength to a concrete slab. Because of the substantial weight of the machine atop the slab, a concrete structure can bend easily even when there is no load on it. To withstand this load, we therefore require a robust—let’semphasize—specialreinforcing mesh. Additionally, the chain-link, which extends in various directions, will resemble concrete grain. It will exacerbate the distortion as well. Thus, keep in mind that you should only use a special metal mesh card with a 15 cm cell or 6–8 mm reinforcement!

Concrete that is at least three centimeters thick does not corrode. Because it’s less expensive than purchasing stands, the frame must be sunk in the center of the screed and laid out in half bricks.

To prevent them from sagging and lying flat, they must be arranged as frequently as the mesh dictates.

We go over the process of creating a sturdy and useful base for your car storage in detail in our guide on pouring a concrete garage floor. We cover every aspect of creating a smooth, long-lasting garage floor that improves your home’s usability and safety, from site preparation and concrete mix selection to pouring and finishing techniques.

Installation of beacons

The beacons must be adjusted to the appropriate layer height in order to focus the rule. While pre-made ones are available for purchase, you can make do with appropriate beams or plumbing segments. The beacons are placed on a thick solution and pressed as much as needed to adjust their height. You can pass through fewer beacons the longer the rule is.

It is customary to begin at the far wall and move in the direction of the entrance, stepping to ensure that the rule covers a distance of approximately 20 to 30 centimeters. The first one is 30 cm from the wall, and after that, one step at a time. Owners frequently raise the beacons just a little bit from the distant wall; you can see why this maneuver is necessary. in order for the water to flow to the street through gravity along the floor.

The beacons can be taken out after a day, and the voids can be leveled and refilled with solution.

What brand of concrete is needed?

There’s no need to be too clever here. The most suitable grade of concrete for frost resistance and strength for a garage floor is M250. It is obtained from cement grade M400. How much should I take?? A lot, the thickness of the fill is impressive, so if you mix the solution yourself, you will have to fill it in parts. A standard garage measuring four by six will require at least 2.5, or even 3 cubes of concrete (calculator). You can"t handle it with just your hands. For example, my father and I hired people and rented two concrete mixers. You can, of course, mix it little by little and not pour it all at once. But in this case, from different batches the concrete will be in the joints. Cracks may subsequently form there. To avoid this, do not forget to disperse cement milk from the surface – such a muddy water on concrete. Make it more convenient with a metal brush.

I tried, and while it wastes a lot of time and effort, the savings are not that great. When I order ready-made concrete again, the cost won’t be significantly higher. However, you can fill it straight out of the mixer when they bring it. The image demonstrates how to easily use gravity to move concrete straight into the garage. Cover the tray with a film to expedite the solution; the concrete will set in perfect time. Additionally, to make the concrete rule easier to pull and stretch, start in the middle of the garage.

They use a submersible vibrator to go through the solution and strengthen the concrete floor. The process works: vibration removes bubbles, the concrete becomes more viscous and plastic, and gravity fills the cavities with concrete.

Curing

Concrete is durable because of moisture. The base will become more crumbly as it evaporates more quickly. For this reason, cover windows and doors from light and cover the concrete with wet burlap on hot, dry days. It will also be useful for watering the concrete in the future. Do this every week, and the wet cloth will provide the necessary moisture for the concrete. If there’s a film, take it off from time to time, wet the floor, and then cover it up again. Don’t be a fanatic when you pour water; moisten the concrete until it gets dark without creating puddles.

Don’t forget to give it about a month to dry if you want a high-quality floor.

Insulated concrete floor in garage

My father added a layer of expanded clay for insulation. This was significant to him because he built a home workshop in his spacious garage. Generally speaking, garage floors are insulated primarily in areas with severe winter weather. Permit me to add that the expanded clay is applied following the waterproofing layer; all other steps are completed as per normal.

On the other hand, if the concrete floor is ready but still needs to be insulated, there are alternative options.

The insulation is applied initially in two layers that overlap; in this instance, extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 35 kg per meter is preferable. Next, a layer of geotextiles is applied; this membrane, which is employed in road construction, is incredibly resilient. The load is distributed by the membrane. You can save money on it, of course, but using a membrane will stop the wheels from pushing through your insulation, even if insulation ends up costing more. Well, use a cement screed to "polish" everything on top.

Building a sturdy and useful space requires pouring a concrete garage floor. Concrete is a great material for garage flooring because it is durable and strong. Careful planning is necessary before pouring starts. This entails preparing the site appropriately to guarantee a level base and sufficient reinforcement.

Paying close attention to details is essential when pouring. In order to ensure easy spreading and leveling, the concrete mixture needs to be properly prepared. To prevent uneven surfaces, the concrete must be spread evenly as it is poured. For the garage floor to be both functional and aesthetically pleasing, a smooth finish must be achieved with the aid of tools like screeds and floats.

Concrete requires time to properly cure after it is poured. The concrete is able to reach its maximum strength and durability during this curing process. A long-lasting finish and a reduction in cracks are also benefits of adequate curing. Curing times can vary depending on the type of concrete used and the weather, so patience is needed to get the best results.

To maintain the integrity of the garage floor, maintenance is necessary after pouring. This entails routine cleaning to get rid of dirt and other impurities that might eventually erode the concrete. In addition to increasing the concrete’s resilience to moisture and stains, sealing it can also help it last longer and keep its aesthetic.

To sum up, pouring a concrete garage floor requires meticulous preparation, accurate execution, and ongoing upkeep. Homeowners can guarantee a solid and dependable foundation for their garage area by following these steps. The functionality and value of the property are enhanced by a well-poured concrete floor, which can be used for parking cars or establishing a workshop area.

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