Recommendations from builders on how to build a brick bathhouse and lay masonry around the stove

Both constructing a brick bathhouse and installing masonry around the stove call for meticulous design and expert craftsmanship. In addition to offering a place to unwind, these traditional buildings also require particular building methods to guarantee their longevity and safety. Whether you’re a seasoned builder or starting a project for the first time, you can succeed if you heed the advice of experts.

Building a brick bathhouse requires careful consideration of the foundation. It needs to be sturdy and able to bear the weight of the entire construction. In order to prevent moisture problems that could eventually jeopardize the integrity of the bathhouse, builders frequently advise excavating deep enough to reach stable soil and making sure that proper drainage is in place.

The selection of mortar and bricks is equally crucial. Building the bathhouse’s walls and stove area requires high-quality bricks that can resist extreme heat and moisture. For the stove area, builders usually choose fire bricks because they are made to withstand high temperatures without breaking.

Professional builders stress how important it is to insulate a brick bathhouse properly. In addition to increasing energy efficiency, good insulation maintains a comfortable interior temperature. To reduce heat loss, materials such as ceramic fiber blankets or mineral wool are frequently placed between the inner and outer layers of walls.

Precision is essential when laying masonry around a stove in a brick bathhouse. The heater, which provides heat for sauna sessions, is the focal point of the bathhouse. When laying bricks around a stove, builders recommend using refractory mortar, which is specially made to withstand high temperatures. This mortar increases the longevity and efficiency of the stove by ensuring a solid bond between the bricks.

Finally, adequate ventilation is necessary to keep the bathhouse’s atmosphere healthy. Installing windows or vents that can be opened to allow for air circulation is advised by builders in order to avoid the growth of mold and humidity. These ventilation options also extend the structure’s lifespan and general comfort.

Wall requirements

It is documented that the traditional bathhouse is a technical structure. SNiP II-L.13-62 lays out all the specifications needed to construct this kind of structure. Regarding brick walls, they need to fulfill the subsequent specifications:

1. Build a brick bathhouse on a dry part of the site. The material is hygroscopic, perfectly absorbs moisture, which will ultimately destroy it. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to make high-quality waterproofing of the walls and build a bathhouse no closer than 30 meters to a pond or pool.
2. If the bathhouse is planned to be heated with wood, the distance of the walls to the neighboring building should not be closer than 15 meters. If the room is heated by gas or electricity, you can reduce the distance to 5-6 m.

Three varieties of masonry load-bearing walls that are in contact with the street are as follows:

• continuous masonry – two surfaces are mounted without gaps, close to each other;
• with a gap for ventilation (4-6 cm);
• with a gap for insulation – lightweight masonry.

The third option is frequently selected for central Russia because insulation is an essential structural component and brick does not retain heat well.

A heater fills the space between the walls, which is left between 0.5 and 1 brick. There is use of a multi-row ligation system.

Internal

The bath’s walls, which are composed of black masonry, are part of the bearing.

Points to consider:

1. The material is sensitive in pair, the presence of vapor barrier on the internal walls of the steam room is mandatory.
2. Allowed deviation of the rows horizontally – no more than 10 mm.
3. Vertically permissible deviation +/– 15 mm.
4. Deviation for laying angles is not allowed.
5. The seams in the neighboring rows of the masonry should not match, the displacement is created according to the selected scheme of the order. Otherwise, the structure will not have sufficient strength, the solution is not able to hold the mass of walls, ceilings and roofs.
6. After the masonry is completed, it is forbidden to create openings and holes in it, otherwise the project will be broken and the weight of the bath will be distributed not correctly.
7. Openings for windows and doors are formed during the construction process.
8. Before starting masonry work, a concrete base for the walls is formed. Rough masonry refers to the load-bearing part of the structure; it is placed around the perimeter of the future bathhouse. If the area exceeds 6 m2, then approximately another load-bearing wall should pass through the middle of the building, which will take on part of the load from the floors. Underneath it is part of the foundation (if it is strip), a concrete base is formed.
9. A layer of waterproofing is laid between the base of the wall and the first row of masonry. Roll materials are used (for example, roofing felt).
10. Finishing and insulation must be present, since brick transmits heat well.
11. Every 3-4 rows the walls are tied with reinforcing mesh, preserving the strength of the structure.
12. Internal surfaces are most often laid in 1 brick. Width is 25 cm.
13. If the bathhouse is planned to have 2 floors, the thickness increases to 1.5 bricks.
14. The difference in height between the walls of the first and second floors should not be more than 1.2 m.
15. The thickness of the masonry joints is 10-12 mm.
16. If it is known in advance where the partition will be located, flexible ties are installed in this place of the masonry or bricks are taken out of the rows for subsequent connection of the walls. Distance between 4-5 rows.

The wall’s standard height is 2 meters; it cannot be raised to its full height at once to prevent the seams from moving apart under the weight. Skilled builders advise constructing a wall one meter high each day.

External

Accuracy is necessary when working with seams on facing walls in order to achieve a beautiful finished product. There are some variations between the specifications for internal comparable structures and those for masonry.

• the standard width of the masonry of external walls for a bathhouse is 1\2 brick (12 cm);
• vents are left in the surface so that the air circulates evenly and the moisture evaporates in time, otherwise the insulation may begin to rot or become moldy, vents are not vertical seams covered with mortar, they are assigned a place closer to the top of the wall, distributed at a distance every 1.5 -2 meters;
• The masonry is formed with the embroidery of the seams, t.e. with leveling the solution with a narrow spatula using special technology;
• The waterproofing of bricks is carried out, most often the injection method or impregnation is used, the seams are also covered with waterproof solution or paint.

The remaining specifications, which include seam thickness, deviations, openings, and order compliance, are the same as those for interior walls. The surfaces are connected to one another in the process of making lightweight masonry.

Near the furnace

What you should be aware of:

1. Partition masonry is created in ¼ or in ½ brick.
2. The wall is protected from overheating using materials such as porcelain tiles, tiles, special protective screens, etc. The decoration is mounted on top of brickwork, plaster is inappropriate here.
3. You need the foundation, since the brick is heavy. If this moment was not thought out in advance, you need to make out the floor and create the base from scratch. With a solid concrete monolithic foundation, no special manipulations are required. The stove foundation and the wall foundation are not connected.
4. Be sure to maintain a distance of 20 cm from the wall to the stove.
5. The minimum height of the partition is 20 cm above the stove, most often it is made up to the ceiling (a distance of 2 cm is left between the last row and the ceiling for shrinkage).

Jointing is used in the construction of the partition if the surface will not be finished. Reinforcement occurs every two to three rows. The variances and joints have the same thickness as the remaining walls.

A brick bathhouse’s walls are only allowed to be 15 meters from the forest and 1 meter from the bushes per fire safety regulations. The placement of a building within a garden plot involves many more subtleties.

They’re controlled:

• SNiP 31-05-2003 (p. 6.3.9),
• SNiP 2.09.04-87 (p. 2.34, 2.35, 2.36),
• SP 118.13330.2012,
• SP 53.13330.2011,
• SP 54.13330.2016,
• SP 55.13330.2016.

What kind of brick is used?

Standard red brick is the only kind used for the bathhouse because silicate brick cannot tolerate temperature changes. The types of walls that the material is used on determine the variations.

Fits for internal walls with rough masonry:

1. Solid brick, being the densest, is recommended to be laid in the lower part of the wall, where the maximum weight load.
2. Hollow for masonry higher, at the level of human height and under the ceiling, as it retains heat better.
3. Strength grade from M150.
4. Frost resistance index from F50, since the bathhouse is heated from time to time and in winter it is not heated.
5. Single size is most often used.

To ensure a uniform and practical row connection, it is advised to use the same size materials for facing and roughing out the masonry.

Use this for cladding exterior walls:

1. Moisture-resistant brick, for example clinker. It does not allow moisture to pass through and has good thermal insulation properties. In addition, it looks great, neat, smooth and almost unbreakable.
2. As a more budget option – regular red ceramic facing bricks.
3. For a beautiful facade that attracts attention – hyperpressed brick. Repeats the texture of natural stone, comes in different colors, you can create a pattern with it. It is stronger than analogues and tolerates frost well.
4. Strength grade preferably from M 200.
5. Frost resistance from F50 and above.
6. Hollow brick structure retains heat inside better. But since the bathhouse is unlikely to warm up to the outer walls, you can use a solid one, it is stronger.

In the bathroom area closest to the stove, select:

1. Solid or hollow ceramic brick. The first option transmits heat worse.
2. Facing brick. Can be used as a beautiful, moisture-resistant, but expensive option.
3. Brand from M100.
4. Frost resistance from F50.

Necessary tools and materials for construction

Masonry equipment:

• trowel;
• trowel wide, narrow and ordinary;
• double-sided hammer;
• putty knife;
• shovel;
• beacons, mooring line;
• solution container or concrete mixer.

Resources:

• sand;
• cement;
• water;
• insulation;
• waterproofing;
• anchors;
• vapor barrier;
• flexible connections.

Step-by-step instructions for constructing a structure with your own hands

Create a 20-centimeter-tall base for concrete walls before beginning any masonry work. Roll waterproofing is installed with sealed joints and an overlap in two layers between the first row of concrete and masonry. Let’s talk about raising each kind of wall in isolation.

Solution

Options for the composition of mortar for internal and external walls:

1. Cement + sand, diluted with water. Ratio 1:3, add liquid until a viscous, dense texture is obtained. The mass should not spread, but should be evenly distributed over the surface of the material using a spatula. This composition is called fatty or normal.
2. The finished mixture is diluted with water in the proportion indicated on the label.

For the furnace partition, a slightly different approach is advised; a diluted mixture of purified clay and sand is suggested because it withstands temperature changes well and the masonry will remain safe. For extra strength, some builders supplement the mixture with cement.

Order of production:

• Soak the clay in the water for 24 hours so that it gains elasticity;
• Strain, stir with a shovel until a homogeneous state, add water as necessary;
• Mix with sand, gradually, until a dense mass is obtained, the ratio is 1 liter of sand to a bucket of clay (10 liter).

Before any kind of wall work begins, the cement-based connecting mixture is portioned out and ready to use. The substance quickly freezes. The bearing walls are first laid out in a light manner in the first section of the structure.

External walls

Method:

1. Put the beacons around the perimeter of the building, highlight the places where the openings will be formed. Pull the berth thread, check the accuracy of the angles.
2. Start work with corners, masonry is carried out in ½ brick in compliance with the order and constant quality control of geometry. A multi-row masonry system is used.
3. The corners are connected according to the same pattern: the first row is dry, the subsequent rows are in compliance with the order of multi-row masonry.
4. Every 4 rows the masonry is reinforced with reinforcement. Several rods with anchors are laid across the row; their length should be enough to attach the inner wall.
5. The seams on the front side of the masonry are formed with jointing so that the work looks attractive from the outside.

Laying partitions from the inside

Let’s take a 1.5 brick masonry as an example:

1. Place the beacons at the corners of the base, accurately measure the length, tension the mooring thread. Repeat the markings along the perimeter of the future building, highlight the junction of load-bearing walls with partitions and indicate the location of doorways.
2. Check the accuracy of the corners using diagonal threads and a wooden corner.
3. Start laying from the corners, the first row is formed without mortar, on a dry. Fasten with connecting mixture only vertically.
4. The second row is placed on the mixture, the order is observed and the accuracy of the angles of each row is checked.
5. Repeat the laying in rows 3 and 4, following the order. Reinforce the seam after the 4th row with reinforcement mesh.
6. The main part of the masonry is also assembled in accordance with the order, the first row is dry, reinforcement every 4 rows.
7. Multi-row masonry is carried out, insulation is laid at the same time.
8. Reinforcing pins with anchors are laid from the outer wall to the inner wall to connect them. General cross-sectional view in the photo.
9. In places where an opening is created, the wall at the ends should be made of solid brick. The top of window and door openings is reinforced with metal or concrete blocks, which are held in place by side masonry. On top of the block, masonry continues as before it appeared.

A ventilation gap is created by spacing the external walls according to the thickness of the insulation and the anchors. The distance is about 12 cm.

Around the stove

Method:

1. Beacons are set, the mooring line is tightened. The first row is laid on dry.
2. The second and subsequent rows form the wall; during the work, compliance with the geometry and angle of the masonry is checked. It is necessary to follow the order.
3. The connection (if any) is carried out along the bricks that were placed to create a connection on the rough masonry of the main walls of the bathhouse.
4. If connections have not been made in advance, the structures are connected with mortar or attached to a steel profile. There is no need to form rigid connections, since the partition is lightweight.
5. It is recommended to install floor-to-ceiling beams on both sides of the wall to guide and hold the masonry.

Here is a succinct thesis statement for your piece about erecting masonry around the stove and constructing a brick bathhouse: Builders provide vital advice for building a sturdy brick bathhouse and skillfully installing masonry around the stove in this extensive guide. All aspects of the process are covered by these recommendations, which range from selecting the appropriate bricks and mortar to guaranteeing adequate insulation and ventilation. This post offers helpful guidance to help you create a well-built bathhouse that endures the test of time and adds coziness and functionality to your house, regardless of your level of experience building.

Strengthening

Use flexible metal plates, reinforcement pins, or reinforcing mesh to reinforce walls. Although the first option is better, it is not always possible due to the thickness of the masonry.

Every four to five rows, the reinforcing mesh is buried in the solution and placed inside the seam to strengthen the internal and external structures. The wall next to the stove is reinforced by a row because it is thinner there.

The thin walls used for construction must be reinforced to prevent the masonry from being destroyed by the weight of the structure.

Insulation

A bathhouse’s insulation is installed in phases:

1. Exterior walls. The insulation is laid inside lightweight masonry. For it, you can use sheets of expanded polystyrene, which are cut to the desired shape and filled with them the space inside the lightweight masonry during the construction of the internal walls. Mineral wool is also good for these purposes. External structures must be insulated so that when warming up the bathhouse there is no need to spend money on heating the entire building. The purpose of a sauna stove is to warm up the air inside the room.
2. Internal walls. Here it is necessary to make a high-quality finish so that the heat does not escape into the walls. To do this, the rough masonry is waterproofed with coating materials (for example, bitumen mastic). Next, a layer of plaster is applied, a lathing is attached to it, and fiberglass is placed inside the resulting cells. A layer of thermal insulation is laid (expanded polystyrene, ecowool, basalt wool). Next, the wall is covered with a vapor barrier (for example, foil), on top of which the finishing is placed. Experts recommend using lining, which quickly warms up and will become an obstacle to the transfer of heat to the brick.
3. Near the stove the wall is insulated with a denser layer of heat-insulating material, according to the same principle as the internal surfaces of the bathhouse. Foil must be used as a vapor barrier, since the steam room is the wettest part of the bath and is subject to the most dramatic temperature changes.

Excellent ventilation is essential for the steam room to prevent it from becoming a closed-in thermos when heated.

The use of combustible and toxic material emitters (polystyrene foam, mineral wool, and similar materials) for interior insulation is strictly prohibited.

Difficulties and possible errors during the work process

What you should be aware of beforehand:

1. The possibility and safety of using a bathhouse depends on the choice of insulation. Depending on the type of walls, the material must be of high quality and suitable for the conditions in which it will be located.
2. Some builders, instead of lightweight masonry walls, use solid masonry, without an opening, between the outer part of the structure and the inner. This is done mainly for the purpose of saving, but this makes the structure much colder, the air takes longer to warm up, since part of the heat goes to the walls.
3. It is necessary to strengthen the thin walls of the bathhouse so that the masonry does not crack or deform under the weight of the ceilings.
4. You need to start and finish construction in the warm season, at above-zero temperatures. Frost causes the mortar to cease to perform its functions and contributes to a short service life of the walls.
5. There should be a ventilation gap under the finishing and between the main walls so that the air helps the penetrated moisture evaporate and the bathhouse dries out faster.
6. The lack of vapor barrier and high-quality waterproofing of brick is a direct path to the rapid appearance of fungus and mold on the brick, which cannot be removed. The consequence is rotting of finishing materials.
7. The ventilation system must be thoroughly thought out, otherwise the walls will be constantly wet, damp and destroyed.
8. Checking the geometry of the masonry and maintaining the order are mandatory. Otherwise, the walls will deform over time and along with them the entire bathhouse.

A brick bathhouse can only be constructed on level ground. Due to its weight, there is a significant chance that the structure will sink once construction is finished. The height of the walls must be determined while accounting for this point.

Advantages and disadvantages of this structure

The bathhouse’s brick walls give the structure:

• durability;
• environmental friendliness;
• fire safety;
• no rotting;
• beautiful appearance;
• fast shrinkage period.

However, there are drawbacks as well, so it’s best to consider them beforehand:

• such walls take a long time to warm up;
• the material is expensive;
• high thermal conductivity (high-quality vapor barrier is needed);
• hygroscopicity of brick (solved by waterproofing);
• fragility of the material.

Most of the shortcomings of the material won’t matter if the technical specifications are met for building brick walls in a bathhouse.

Prices for masonry in the Russian Federation

The complexity of the structure and the kind of material used determine how much it will cost to build brick walls. The final price that builders offer will depend on the extent of the work. The cost is calculated on a turnkey basis, per square meter of the brick bathhouse, rather than separately for each element.

Average costs by Russian Federation city for installing bathroom walls:

Name of works	Moscow and Moscow Region, rub/m2	St. Petersburg and Leningrad Region, rub/m2	Krasnodar region, rub/m2	Kazan, rub/m2
Construction of a brick bathhouse	16000	13500	13000	14000

It takes careful planning and attention to detail to lay masonry around the stove and build a brick bathhouse. The importance of laying a strong foundation is something that builders emphasize. This guarantees that the building can sustain the heat produced within and the weight of the bricks. In order to avoid structural problems in the future, the site must be properly prepared, which includes leveling the ground and making sure there is enough drainage.

Using premium materials is essential when laying bricks. Bricks that are resistant to moisture and high temperatures are the ones that builders advise choosing. To ensure a strong bond between bricks, each one should be precisely laid using mortar. A steady and aesthetically acceptable outcome is guaranteed by paying close attention to each course’s alignment and levelness.

To ensure efficiency and safety, specialized skills are needed for the masonry surrounding the stove. Building experts advise constructing a sturdy foundation for the stove out of fireproof materials like refractory mortar and fire bricks. For best results, the stove should be positioned to optimize ventilation and heat distribution.

Regular checks and modifications are crucial during the building process. Future problems can be avoided by looking for any cracks or weaknesses in the masonry and fixing them right away. To keep the bathhouse’s interior cozy and secure, appropriate ventilation and insulation systems should be included.

In the end, constructing a brick bathhouse and installing masonry around the stove are satisfying projects that call for skill and close attention to detail. By heeding these advice from seasoned builders, you can be sure of a sturdy and useful structure that will prolong and improve your bathhouse experience.

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