Rescue from the cold: how to insulate plastic windows yourself for the winter, how much the services of a professional cost?

Making sure your house is adequately insulated becomes essential as winter draws near, particularly in regards to windows. Windows can be major sources of heat loss, especially if they are old or have poor seals. Self-insulating plastic windows is a workable way to reduce energy costs and retain warmth. This is how you can complete the task without going over budget.

Start by evaluating the state of your plastic windows. Examine any openings, fractures, or potential entry points for drafts. The window frames, seals, and the point where the window meets the wall are common places to inspect. These are the places where heat can escape and cold air can seep in, reducing the efficiency of your heating system and possibly raising your energy bills.

When using a do-it-yourself method, begin by caulking any visible fissures or gaps around the window frames. To properly seal these areas, use caulking or weather-stripping. To reduce drafts and heat loss, weather-stripping can be installed to the window’s movable parts to create a tight seal when closed.

Installing window insulation kits might be a good idea if your windows are older or have serious problems that call for more than just sealing. Usually, these kits come with clear plastic film that you use double-sided tape to stick straight to the window glass. After application, the film is shrunk with a hairdryer to form a tight, insulating layer that can drastically cut down on heat loss.

Even though do-it-yourself techniques can work, there are instances when hiring a pro is necessary, particularly for older windows or more complicated problems. Professional window insulation services could include advanced insulation techniques that are beyond the scope of do-it-yourself projects, seal replacement, or an upgrade to more energy-efficient window designs.

Consider the advantages and disadvantages of both DIY and professional services before making your decision. While DIY solutions are typically less expensive, they might need more time and work. Even though they are more costly, professional services frequently offer more thorough and long-lasting solutions that could ultimately result in cost savings through increased energy efficiency.

Basic methods

Windows can be insulated either before or after finishing. The combination of both kinds of work can greatly improve thermal efficiency. Since work is not always done during installation on its isolation, there are situations in which only one insulation method can be used.

When installing

Many forms of insulation work, such as warm installation, are done when windows are installed.

This process entails installing vapor-tight insulation throughout the structure surrounding the opening’s perimeter. Penoplex, also known as extruded polystyrene foam, is one kind of insulation.

Polymer slabs are also used for insulating slopes, window sills, and the exterior wall next to the window opening. This is required to eliminate any potential cold bridge formation at the intersection of the opening and the frame.

Observation: A heating pipe must be located beneath the window sill for a double-glazed window to have a higher thermal efficiency, avoid condensation, and avoid growing mold. It produces enough heat to keep drafts from forming on the floor.

You must cut the window sill’s length to the ideal length in order to allow heated air to freely ascend. Additionally, you could drill holes in it and add heating elements or a convector. Sometimes the window is moved closer to the interior of the room in order to create the desired effect on wide walls. The quarter is thickened to achieve this.

Additional after finishing

Sometimes, after PVC windows are installed, polystyrene foam insulation is applied to the surrounding walls of the window. This kind of work is done to eliminate cold bridges and lessen heat loss through the opening.

After installation, replacing double-glazed windows with single-glazed ones or adhering reflective film to the glass are crucial components of PVC window insulation. Glass loses between 15% and 20% of its heat due to its high thermal conductivity.

This is prevented by using a higher-quality double-glazed window with more air chambers and laminated glass. A less expensive option is to apply protective film to the glass, which marginally blocks natural light but permits thermal energy to be reflected.

Blow-out spots can develop as a result of rubber insulation or fittings that have been used extensively wearing down.

The hinges or clamping mechanism gradually wear out or become loose due to improper care, or lack thereof.

In the first instance, the blowing can be stopped with a straightforward adjustment, and in the second, the fittings must be replaced. Rubber seals can endure 5-8 years without needing to be replaced if they are properly maintained (cleaned and lubricated with a special compound).

However, the insulation wears out (loses elasticity, wears out, is pressed through, cracks) as a result of debris getting in, temperature fluctuations, and frequent window openings. This results in a loose fit for the sashes or double-glazed windows. As a result, bridges and cold air flows form.

Materials and tools

A PVC structure may require the following insulation:

• construction knife;
• soap solution;
• spray;
• rubber spatula;
• clean napkin or sponge;
• polymer panels (polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, penoplex);
• panel adhesive;
• self-tapping screws;
• mushroom dowels;
• putty knife;
• double sided tape;
• reinforcing mesh;
• heat reflective film;
• perforator;
• sandwich panels;
• construction (or regular) hair dryer;
• vapor barrier film;
• plaster;
• sandpaper;
• screwdriver;
• PVC corners;
• set of screwdrivers and hexagons;
• water-repellent film;
• rubber compressor;
• silicone sealant.

Step-by-step instructions for do-it-yourself insulation

What you need to make a warm installation is:

1. Use polystyrene foam to insulate a pre-prepared window opening.
2. Drill holes (25 mm in diameter) inside the slabs to install polypropylene pipes filled with polyurethane foam. This is necessary so that when the insulation shrinks, the window does not warp.
3. After this the frame is installed.
4. Upon completion of installation, the slopes are insulated using PPS or polyurethane foam, vapor barriers, sandwich panels, and PVC corners.
5. In some cases, polymer boards are replaced with mineral wool.
6. From the inside, window sills are insulated according to a principle similar to slopes: a layer of foam, then insulation and the window sill itself.
7. Outside, a low tide and water-repellent film are additionally installed.

Outside

To use polystyrene foam boards for exterior insulation, you’ll need:

1. Clean the walls from dirt, dust or pieces of concrete.
2. Apply a special adhesive composition for insulating boards to their surface. The composition can be applied not to the wall, but to the slab itself, so its consumption will be less, but walls without large cracks or irregularities are required.
3. Glue polystyrene foam plates.
4. After the glue has dried, use a puncher to make holes for mushroom dowels.
5. Insert the dowels and tighten the screws using a screwdriver.
6. Apply the heat-insulating adhesive that was used initially to the surface of the slabs.
7. Using a spatula, drown the reinforcing mesh, for example, made of fiberglass, in the still liquid composition.
8. Level the surface so that the mesh completely “sinks”.
9. After drying, you can sand the surface with sandpaper to remove excess parts.
10. Apply plaster.

You can take the following action if the slopes were not insulated during the installation of double-glazed windows:

1. Remove the plaster from the slopes (if there was any) or dismantle the slope box.
2. Clean the wall from debris and excess foam.
3. Seal deep cracks with sealant.
4. It is recommended to additionally treat the wall with antifungal impregnation.
5. Cut pieces of the required size from polystyrene foam boards.
6. Glue these parts with special glue. Additionally, you can use mushroom dowels.
7. Cover the insulation with a slope box or sandwich panels made of foamed PVC. Additionally, it can be secured using self-tapping screws.
8. Plaster the corner parts and cover with a PVC corner.
9. Fill all cracks and joints between the window and panels with sealant.

Similar insulation is used for slopes, but in addition, polystyrene foam is covered with a film that repels water.

A video explaining how to use polystyrene foam to insulate window slopes:

Inside

The aforementioned technique can be used to insulate indoor window sills and slopes; however, for the latter, polyurethane foam is used as insulation rather than glue. Additionally, you can swap out double-glazed windows for warmer ones that have sandwich glass or lots of air chambers.

Pasting thermal protective film

Furthermore, a specific heat-reflecting film can be adhered to PVC windows to provide insulation from the inside as well as the outside. To accomplish this, you’ll need:

1. clean the glass with a soapy solution or special window cleaners, then wipe until completely dry;
2. degrease the glass with acetone or special means;
3. cut a piece of film of the required size, adding 2-3 cm along the edges;
4. double-sided tape is glued around the perimeter of the glass, onto which the film is attached;
5. it must be glued so that there are no gaps, and it fits tightly;
6. Using a hairdryer (preferably a special construction one), blow on the surface of the film until it completely “sits” on the glass.

Double-sided tape may not always be necessary because the thermal protective film occasionally comes with its own adhesive backing. After carefully smoothing it with a rubber spatula or a specialized tool to remove the air, it is adhered to degreased glass.

Suggestions. With a thin spatula, push the edges under the seal. You can use a stationery knife to trim off any excess film around the edges.

How-to videos for applying heat-reducing window film:

Adjusting fittings

Changing the rotary hinges or clamping mechanism is an additional method of insulating windows from the inside. The fittings used by PVC structure manufacturers vary, so there may be variations in the ways that they are adjusted.

There are trunnions (a unique eccentric that lets you close the window) on the side of the sash or impost. You can change the sashes’ pressing density with their assistance. Use a hex key to rotate them in two directions to accomplish this: clockwise to tighten and counterclockwise to loosen. The trunnion may have a unique feature in certain circumstances. The pressure will increase if you turn it toward the room and decrease if you turn it toward the street.

Two factors control the degree of fit: rotating hinges and trunnions. They sag with repeated use, making it difficult for the sash to fit snugly against the frame.

Citation. This is typically the lower hinge on a window with a turning mechanism; on tilt-and-turn windows, the upper hinge might also have extra adjustment.

You must consider which way the sash opens when adjusting the pressure using the lower hinge. If it opens to the left, the screw needs to be turned counterclockwise to increase density; if it opens to the right, it needs to be turned clockwise. Allen keys of the proper size—typically 2.5 or 3.5—are used for this.

The tilt-and-turn mechanism’s upper hinge is adjusted to the predetermined ventilation mode, which typically involves turning the handle up. The bolt is turned clockwise to increase pressure.

You can learn how to manually adjust PVC windows by watching this video:

Replacing the seal

Replacing the seal in plastic windows is challenging because different manufacturers use insulation during assembly, which means that the shape of the insulation must repeat all of the sash or impost bends.

Because the necessary model is no longer available on the market, it may occasionally be impossible to replace the seal (a common problem for old window models). In other situations, changing the rubber bands on your own is possible. Self-adhesive seals should only be installed on plastic windows as a last resort to further protect the seam between the profile and the window opening.

To replace the seal on double-glazed windows, you will require:

1. Remove old rubber bands. They can be pulled out by hand or pryed with improvised means.
2. Wash the grooves with soapy water.
3. Degrease the surface of the grooves.
4. For tighter fastening, the corners of the profile can be coated with silicone or PVC glue.
5. The rubber seal is measured in order to cut it into the required pieces. A small reserve is left for each. Some seals (for example, EPMD) bend easily, so they do not need to be cut and can be installed in one piece.
6. It is recommended that two people install the seal in the gap, as it is more convenient and quick. To do this, the rubber bands are installed in the grooves and compacted tightly. This should be done carefully so as not to damage the seal.

Rubber bands typically have unique protrusions on one side that conform to the contour of the groove, such as rectangular or arrow-shaped protrusions.

Crucial! The seal needs to be treated with a special compound (typically silicone grease) in order for it to survive longer than five years.

Learn how to replace a PVC window seal by watching the video below:

Is it possible to replace the insulation in PVC structures?

When the old insulation on plastic windows wears out, it might be necessary to replace it. It might not be possible or difficult to replace in certain situations:

• external insulation on slopes, walls and under the drain can be replaced independently in buildings that have no more than 2 floors, since specialized equipment or specialists in high-altitude work will be required for the work;
• replacing insulation at temperatures below 0 is most often not possible, since the bonding mixtures will freeze instead of drying.

Alternatively, you could replace the outdated insulation by yourself:

1. to replace the insulation on slopes (internal and external), you must first remove the upper protective layer;
2. after that, clean the surface of the walls and use the instructions indicated above;
3. to change the insulation on the windowsill you need to carefully remove it;
4. Next, clean the area from old foam, glue and insulation, and then carry out the insulation process again;
5. replacing film on glass can cause difficulties, since with heat shrinkage or a large amount of adhesive, it sticks strongly to the window;
6. to remove it, you need to carefully pry up one edge, and then try to peel off the film;
7. if it goes tight, then the edges that are adjacent to the glass can be slightly soaked with soapy water.

How to properly perform work in a wooden house?

Wooden houses settle with time, which can cause deformities in the window opening.

As a result, the windows in these types of homes are set up on a unique "floating" cushion (casing), which prevents the windows from warping as it shrinks.

However, gaps must be filled with natural insulation (jute, linen) as they grow between the casing and the opening. Wooden overlays are used to conceal the intersection of the window and the opening, shielding the insulation from outside influences. It is advised to install external shutters in certain situations.

Kindly take note! In wooden houses, polymer plate insulation is not used.

You can reduce your winter heating bills by insulating plastic windows yourself, but you should consider the advantages and disadvantages. This article examines doable techniques for properly insulating windows, such as applying window films, thermal curtains, and weather stripping. It also lists the typical costs associated with DIY versus hiring a professional. Making the best decision for the warmth and efficiency of your house depends on your understanding of these options, whether you’re trying to lower energy costs or improve comfort.

Difficulties and errors

The following issues could come up when insulating plastic structures:

• The greatest difficulty can arise when insulating PVC windows with polymer plates (polystyrene foam or similar), if the room is located above the second floor. In this case, processing external walls or slopes is not possible without the use of special equipment (a truck crane or climbing equipment) and specialists in high-altitude work.
• Finding the right seal, as well as its incorrect installation.
• When gluing the film, wool, dust or debris may get underneath it, which can cause unevenness and bubbles to appear during shrinkage.
• Some types of protective films have low strength, which is why it can tear when smoothed.
• If the fittings are adjusted incorrectly, the window may not close, and the rubber bands, hinges or locking mechanism may be damaged.

Average price for services

The cost of different insulation types varies according to the material and the difficulty of the job (high-rise, for example).

Average costs for certain categories of work:

• replacement of seal – 150 RUR/linear meter (p.m);
• sealing seams with silicone – 250 r/p.m;
• adjustment of fittings – 150 RUR/window;
• external insulation with polystyrene foam – 400 rubles/meter.

Insulating your plastic windows can be an affordable and useful way to keep the winter cold at bay. Taking charge of the situation yourself will save you money and give you the satisfaction of making your home more comfortable.

First things first, evaluate your windows. Look for any openings or crevices where cold air could enter. To properly seal these areas, use silicone caulking or weather-stripping. During the winter, this small action can have a big impact on keeping your house warmer.

Next, think about including an additional insulation layer. Cellular shades and thermal curtains are practical choices that are simple to install and take down as needed. By erecting a barrier between your room and the window, they improve insulation and lessen heat loss.

Installing window insulating film is an additional practical option for those who are ready to spend a little more money. Applied directly to the glass, this thin, transparent material can effectively reduce heat transfer while maintaining the ability for natural light to pass through.

Although do-it-yourself approaches are less expensive, if you want a hassle-free experience or have more complicated issues, it may be worthwhile to hire a professional to upgrade your window insulation. Experts can guarantee long-term efficacy and offer customized solutions, though prices may differ according to the size of your windows and the amount of work needed.

It is a wise investment in comfort and energy efficiency to insulate your plastic windows, whether you decide to do it yourself or hire a professional. You may potentially reduce your heating costs while simultaneously improving your living space by being proactive in keeping heat in and cold out.

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