Rules for pouring semi-dry screed in the garage, pros and cons of the device

Are you considering putting in a semi-dry screed in your garage? It’s a useful method of leveling your floor with a number of benefits to take into account. Sand, cement, and water are combined to create semi-dry screed, also called flowing screed, which is designed to be less difficult to work with than traditional wet screeds.

The effectiveness of semi-dry screed in application is one of its main advantages. It is perfect for garage floors where time and ease of installation are critical since it can be swiftly poured and leveled. Additionally, this kind of screed dries more quickly than conventional techniques, cutting down on construction time and enabling you to utilize your garage sooner.

The ability to achieve a smoother finish is an additional benefit. The degree of self-leveling in semi-dry screed reduces the need for labor-intensive manual leveling. If you intend to use your garage for parking or as a workspace, this not only produces a more even surface but also saves effort during installation.

There are, nevertheless, things to bear in mind. The cost of semi-dry screed is one disadvantage over more conventional techniques. Although the cost of the materials may be higher, labor costs are frequently reduced as a result of faster installation times. Furthermore, correct application and mixing are essential to prevent problems like uneven drying or cracking, which can reduce the screed’s durability.

It’s crucial to consider these factors in relation to your budget and unique needs before making a decision. When building a new garage or remodeling an old one, knowing the benefits and drawbacks of semi-dry screed will help you make an informed decision for a long-lasting and useful floor.

Is it possible to do?

The semi-dry screed technique is appropriate for both commercial and residential spaces. Garage floors are leveled with the help of this technology. Traditional wooden floorboards, which were not very sturdy or long-lasting, were replaced in this room with semi-dry floor screed.

They might sag or dry out, which would not be good for drivers’ daily activities. The cement-sand mixture offers all the requirements needed for a garage to operate for an extended period of time:

  1. High mechanical strength. During the car repair process, heavy parts or tools fall. The poured surface perfectly resists possible damage. Holds the weight of the car well.
  2. Resistance to temperature fluctuations. Semi-dry screed tolerates heat and cold with the same result.
  3. Moisture resistance. A fairly high indicator allows the coating to be used in a humid environment.
  4. Sufficient inertness to chemicals, oils, gasoline.
  5. Easy to fill and maintain. If the garage has a small area, then laying semi-dry screed can be done independently in a short period of time.
  6. Durability.

The possibility of installing a semi-dry floor screed in the garage is confirmed by all of these features.

Requirements

Fundamental specifications for garage flooring:

  1. High strength. This is due to the fact that the car is heavy and is not always in a static state. The coating must withstand the process of car movement, parking and repair. Also, during maintenance, additional mechanical loads may be created.
  2. Moisture resistance and inertness to aggressive chemicals. The coating is used very intensively. It is exposed to moisture, chemical solutions, fuels and lubricants, resins and solvents. Each of the substances can spill at any time and this will lead to condensation.
  3. Wear resistance. This property is necessary for a screed that is used intensively.

The number, order, and layers of screed layers must be observed in order for the parameters to match the declared values.

It is imperative to give special consideration to the coating’s thickness.

Needs for Thickness:

  • the minimum thickness is 40 mm – it will ensure the absence of shrinkage cracks during hardening of the material;
  • the minimum thickness in the presence of reinforcing mesh is 50-60 mm;
  • optimal thickness, which will provide high strength characteristics – 70-100 mm;
  • maximum permissible thickness – 150 mm.

If increasing the coating’s thickness is required, you will have to split the structure into two or more layers and wait for each one to partially strengthen and undergo polymerization. When utility lines need to be laid in a garage, a semi-dry screed this thickness is installed.

Regulations

The following documents set requirements for the installed surface:

  1. SP 29.13330.201.1. The document contains all the necessary information about the types, characteristics and methods of installing floors.
  2. SNiP 2.03.13-88. The text contains rules for choosing a floor structure depending on the operating conditions of the room and the expected loads.
  3. GOST 13087-2018. Methods for determining the abrasion of concrete mixtures are described.
  4. SP 71.13330.2017. The document is devoted to the description of insulating and finishing coatings.
  5. GOST 31489-2012. The text contains all the data about the garage equipment. There is a description of safety requirements and control methods.

The specifications found in regulatory documents must be followed when putting in a semi-dry screed in garages.

Construction and pie

The flooring appears to be a multi-layered base. Its necessary levels are:

  1. Rough base. In a garage, this is most often soil without a plant layer.
  2. Moisture-proof layer. A geotextile fabric is used, which protects the floor pie from ground moisture. Also protects the screed from the penetration of rodents and pathogenic microflora.
  3. Intermediate sub-base layer. Crushed stone (5 cm), sand (10 cm) or fine graphite (15 cm) is used as this layer.
  4. Thermal insulating layer. If the garage block is heated, then the ideal option is polystyrene foam.
  5. Vapor barrier film.
  6. Layer of semi-dry screed.

This is the primary list of layers that must be placed in the garage in order to lay semi-dry screed.

Step by step steps to create

In order to create a semi-dry structure in the garage, get your tools ready:

  • levels – laser and construction;
  • grater;
  • rule;
  • putty knife;
  • Master OK;
  • construction knife;
  • mixer or drill with attachment.

Resources:

  • cement (M400-M500);
  • coarse sand (fraction 2.5-3.0 mm);
  • the water is clean;
  • metal reinforcing mesh (mesh 10 cm x 10 cm);
  • fiber fiber (length 20-40 mm);
  • waterproofing sheet;
  • profile for the construction of lighthouses.

The ratios of the ingredients must be properly followed when combining the mixture; this is especially true for the water.

Sand and cement must first be combined, and then water and fiberglass must be added. You are able to assess the prepared solution’s quality on your own. Squeeze the mixture into your fist and look to accomplish this. If the lump proves to be robust and some moisture escapes, the cooking process was executed properly.

It’s important to understand that pouring a semi-dry screed follows a very similar procedure to pouring a conventional concrete structure. The technology does have some subtleties, though. Phases:

  1. Preparing the base. If a semi-dry screed is to be laid on an old one, then the base needs to be leveled, cracks and chips repaired, and strengthened. If there is major damage, dismantle it. When constructing a new floor, preparation of the base includes excavating soil and creating a hole, leveling the surface, filling with sand and compacting. Pit depth 60-90 cm. The recess cannot be neglected, otherwise the screed will react to temperature changes. Cover the bottom of the excavation with a layer of crushed stone 50 cm thick, compact it well. Crushed stone performs two functions – removing moisture from the concrete pad and increasing the load-bearing capacity of the base. The second stage is filling the sand with a layer of 10-15 cm. At this stage it is necessary to set the desired surface slope. Permissible deviation along the horizon line – 20 mm. To make the sand easier to compact, it can be slightly moistened. Sand layer 5-10 cm.
  2. Laying damper tape. This is a mandatory event. The damper provides sound insulation, prevents moisture from penetrating the mortar into the wall and allows the mortar to expand slightly. As a result, cracks will not form on the screed. The tape is laid at the junction of the floor and walls.
  3. Installation of waterproofing. Primer must be applied to the old screed. On the sand layer – plastic film. It is recommended to lay the whole film. If this is not possible, then make an overlap between the strips of at least 15-20 cm. The joints should be glued with tape, an overlap of 10-15 cm should be made on the walls. Film overlaps on the walls should be higher than the level of the screed.
  4. Laying reinforcing mesh. It is necessary to lay a mesh with cells 10 cm x 10 cm, because the floor in the garage experiences significant loads. A ready-made metal mesh or one welded by hand from reinforcement with a thickness of 8-10 mm is suitable. In this case, the metal should not lie on the ground. The mesh must be raised above the floor level by 5-10 mm using special stands.
  5. Marking and installation of beacons. First you need to mark the zero mark using a laser level, then set beacons along it. The distance between the beacons depends on the size of the rule. Profile can be fixed with alabastr or gypsum. You need to start with two extreme lighthouses, then pull the fishing line between them and put the rest. The floor in the garage is not made perfectly even. He must have a slope to the drain grid or towards the gate.
  6. Pour concrete mixture. The prepared solution must be evenly distributed between the beacons. Align the surface using the rule. Work needs to be done in one day, then the coating will be strong and monolithic. The maximum period of time between portions is 30-40 minutes. The rule when leveling should be moved by vibrating movements. With a large garage area, it is better to use a vibro -plate.
  7. Grout of the seams. 20 minutes after leveling the solution, you need to grout the seams. The grouting machine will cope with this process best. Dry cement or a special strengthening compound should be applied to the floor. These actions will increase the moisture resistance and strength of the coating, and reduce dust formation.

Equipment for a pit

The first step is to dig a pit in the middle of the garage by excavating soil. parameters of the inspection trench:

  • depth depends on the height of the owner + 30 cm;
  • width – 75-80 cm;
  • length is equal to the length of the car + 1.5 m.

To account for brickwork and waterproofing, add 50 cm to the measured dimensions. The inspection pit’s walls are brick, and its floor is concrete.

Once the pit has been dug, fill it with a thin layer of clay and use a log with nailed handles to compact it. Next, apply a 7–10 cm thick layer of concrete on top of the roofing felt.

When the concrete is ready, start laying the walls with bricks. Aerated concrete blocks or any brick will work.

The top edge of the masonry should be between five and seven centimeters below the garage threshold.To lay a flooring of boards to cover the hole, you must first lay a 5 x 5 corner on the brick.

Apply a deep penetration primer to the surface once the brickwork has dried. Using a brush or roller, cover the dried primer with a layer of bitumen mastic. Allow the mastic to air dry.

Tightly pack the dirt into the spaces left behind the pit’s walls.

In our tutorial on pouring semi-dry screed in your garage, we go over the fundamental guidelines and weigh the benefits and drawbacks of this technique. This kind of screed dries faster than conventional techniques, which makes it perfect for cramped areas like garages. Nonetheless, meticulous preparation is necessary to attain the ideal consistency and thickness of the mixture. We’ll walk you through the process and go over things like longevity, affordability, and compatibility with various garage floor types to help you determine if semi-dry screed is the best option for your project.

Difficulties and errors

Semi-dry screeding in a garage is a labor-intensive and responsible construction process that you can do yourself. Errors may occur during the coating installation process, which could cause issues later on. The most common errors are:

  1. Failure to follow the sequence of laying protective layers. Subsequently, the strength characteristics of the screed decrease.
  2. Violation of the thickness of the layers of the cake. This error leads to delamination and destruction of the screed during operation.
  3. The percentage ratio of the solution components is not maintained. In this case, the service life of the coating and its performance properties are significantly reduced.

Errors are also classified as any infraction or non-compliance with pouring technology:

  • lack of moisture-proof film, poorly executed joining of strips;
  • there is no heat and noise protection layer;
  • lack of damper tape;
  • filling was done without beacons.

Any violations cause the screed to lose its properties.

Additional details regarding device infractions in the video:

Protection and processing

The right drying conditions must be established for the coating to be robust, long-lasting, and dependable. The screed is safeguarded by:

  1. No drafts, temperature or humidity changes in the garage. It is recommended to cover the floor with film.
  2. Timely dismantling of beacons with subsequent sealing of the resulting voids and grouting of joints.
  3. Application of protective coatings after final hardening of the screed. In this case, the concrete will not dust and crumble.

Techniques for treating surfaces with protection:

  • impregnation of the floor with special strengthening agents for concrete;
  • painting with paints (epoxy, alkyd) with antistatic and anti-slip properties;
  • ironing;
  • processing with topping compounds.

You can process any kind of data on your own once you’ve become familiar with the technology involved in applying substances.

Coating options

Applying a finishing coat on top of a concrete floor is advised to increase its lifespan. The following are the most often used finishes for garage blocks:

  1. Coating with a primer. Applying a special construction primer will strengthen and dust-proof the concrete surface. Such compounds are an independent coating for screed. There are several types of primers – polyurethane, deep penetration impregnation, epoxy, acrylic, fluate impregnation. The products are ready-to-use and those that need to be prepared. When choosing any impregnation, first the floor surface is thoroughly cleaned and dust-free. The composition is prepared strictly according to the manufacturer"s instructions. Applied with a roller or brush, starting from the corner. Number of layers from 1 to 4, depending on the type of concrete.
  2. Coloring. Conventional types of paints are suitable for painting – oil, nitro, or special polymer-based ones. The latter are two-component; the components must be mixed before use. Painting is also carried out on a prepared (cleaned and dried) surface using a brush, roller or spray.
  3. Self-leveling floor. There are two groups of self-leveling floors for garages – cement and polymer. From polymer floors, you can use epoxy, polyurethane and self-leveling floors with flocks in the garage block. The choice of type depends on what aggressive substances will reach the floor surface. The coating is expensive, but very easy to install. For a self-leveling floor, it is important that the screed is perfectly level. The coating should be cleaned of any debris, stains and dust, sanded. Then the floor needs to be primed. Mix the mixture and start pouring from the farthest point from the entrance. Pour the mixture in strips parallel to the wall. Level with a notched trowel and needle roller. Work continuously until the floor is completely filled. Time – 30-45 minutes. This includes the operation of passing with a needle roller.

Advantages and disadvantages

Grouping the benefits and drawbacks of the coating is essential to accurately highlighting its quality parameters. pros for semi-dry block screed in garages:

  1. Drying speed. After 12 hours you can walk on the floor, and after a week you can begin full use.
  2. No dirt during operation. The minimum amount of water in the solution allows pouring while maintaining the cleanliness of the room and without increasing humidity.
  3. High strength and relatively low weight. These characteristics are due to the presence of fiber fiber.
  4. No shrinkage. It should be noted here that the absence of cracks is possible only if technological rules are strictly followed.

The following are some of the coating’s drawbacks:

  1. Thickness requirements. Semi-dry screed cannot be laid with a thickness of less than 3-5 cm. However, in a garage this may not be considered a minus. After all, the floor in the room experiences heavy loads, so an increase in thickness is welcome.
  2. The need to use equipment. A mixture with a small amount of water can only be mixed using a powerful mixer or concrete mixer. This process is very difficult to perform manually.

Addition of water will cause the screed to lose its fundamental qualities.

User reviews

Users of semi-dry screed in garage blocks observe the following benefits of coverage after some time:

  • budget;
  • speed of work;
  • strength;
  • aesthetics;
  • no shrinkage;
  • perfect floor levelness.

Minuses:

  • reduction in performance characteristics if there was any violation of technology;
  • low heat and noise insulation;
  • Demanding requirements for the presence of a finishing coating due to intense loads.

You can read reviews at the link, here, and here.

Average expenses

The size of the room, the screed’s thickness, and the kind of materials used all affect how much covering installation will cost. Without material, the average cost per square meter is around 200 rubles, while it is around 390 rubles.

It is important to consider the benefits and drawbacks of applying semi-dry screed in your garage before making any decisions. This material has a number of advantages, chief among them being that it dries faster than traditional screed, allowing your renovation project to proceed more quickly. A more level surface is guaranteed by its semi-fluid consistency, which is perfect for creating a level floor that can accommodate a variety of garage activities.

Its shortened drying period is one of its most notable benefits, as it can greatly shorten the time it takes to complete your construction. This efficiency is especially useful in a garage, where time is frequently of the essence. Furthermore, semi-dry screed uses less water than conventional techniques, reducing the possibility of moisture-related problems and guaranteeing a sturdy base for your flooring.

But it’s important to recognize the possible disadvantages. For semi-dry screed to be installed with the appropriate thickness and levelness, it must be handled carefully. Achieving these standards can be difficult without the right knowledge, which could result in uneven surfaces or structural weaknesses that might need repair work.

Moreover, because of its unique composition and application technique, semi-dry screed may initially cost more than more conventional options. For long-term garage flooring solutions, this initial investment may seem high, but it frequently pays off in shorter construction times and increased durability.

In conclusion, weighing the advantages and disadvantages of semi-dry screed in your garage is necessary. For projects that require quick turnaround times, in particular, its excellent surface finish and quick drying time present considerable benefits. To make sure it fits within your budget and specific renovation goals, you should carefully consider the benefits of careful installation against the higher upfront costs.

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Fedor Pavlov

Interior designer, author of books on residential design. I will help you make your home not only functional, but also beautiful.

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