Constructing a bathhouse in your backyard is a fulfilling project that improves your house and offers a private haven for rest and well-being. Establishing a solid and dependable foundation is one of the most important steps in this process. Because of its ease of use and efficiency, a strip foundation is a great option for many do-it-yourselfers.
You will be able to build a strip foundation for your bathhouse with the help of this guide. Everything from choosing the appropriate supplies to actually pouring and setting the concrete will be covered. You can make sure your bathhouse remains sturdy and safe for many years to come by following these instructions.
If you’re not a skilled builder, don’t worry. Each step has been divided into doable tasks so that anyone can easily follow along. Thus, get your equipment ready, put on some work gloves, and let’s begin laying the groundwork for your ideal bathhouse.
Step | Description |
1. Planning | Choose the site and design the foundation layout. |
2. Excavation | Dig a trench according to the layout dimensions. |
3. Formwork | Install formwork to shape the concrete foundation. |
4. Reinforcement | Place steel reinforcement bars in the trench for added strength. |
5. Pouring Concrete | Mix and pour concrete into the formwork, filling it completely. |
6. Leveling | Level the concrete surface and smooth it out. |
7. Curing | Allow the concrete to cure for several days, keeping it moist. |
8. Removing Formwork | Carefully remove the formwork once the concrete has set. |
9. Backfilling | Fill the trench around the foundation with soil and compact it. |
- Building size
- Types of tape
- Cast reinforced concrete
- Made
- Materials
- Brick
- Booth
- Rubble concrete
- Monolithic reinforced concrete
- Foundation blocks
- What brand of concrete is used?
- How to do it yourself?
- Preparation
- Site selection
- Determination of soil composition
- Calculation of width and depth
- Marking
- Excavation work and installation of a sand and gravel bed
- Installation of formwork
- Reinforcement
- How to pour concrete mixture?
- Dismantling of formwork
- Waterproofing
- Features of the construction of the furnace base
- Possible errors and tips
- Video on the topic of the article
Building size
A closed support structure encircling a building’s perimeter is called a strip foundation. Choose the type of foundation and the bathhouse’s dimensions in the plan before beginning construction on a private property.
The ideal collection of premises for hygienic water procedures should include:
- steam room,
- shower room,
- toilet,
- vestibule,
- restroom,
- small terrace.
All of this can be arranged on a 6 x 6 m bathroom layout. The locations of the rooms are depicted in the bottom picture:
The size of the structure determines how the closed perimeter support strip is configured. The bathhouse has common dimensions of 6 x 6 m, with axes of 5.4 x 5.4 m extending through the center of the foundation’s width.
One of the main factors affecting the overall estimated cost of building a bathhouse is the size of the foundation. This establishes the quantity of labor and material used in above-ground construction.
Types of tape
Remove the base There are two varieties: this kind is prefabricated and monolithic. Each kind of foundation has benefits and drawbacks of its own.
Cast reinforced concrete
For a bathhouse, cast reinforced concrete strips are the most popular kind of support. The monolith’s construction draws developers in since it eliminates the need for lifting mechanisms, which can be costly to rent.
The work is only done during the warm season, which has its drawbacks. It also takes a long time to assemble and disassemble the formwork, and it takes 30 days to reach the load-bearing capacity when using tape.
Made
One benefit of a reinforced concrete block foundation is that it only requires small volumes of wet processes to level the tape’s surfaces and seal interblock seams.
One benefit is that wintertime is a good time to start building the foundation.
Basement layouts make use of prefabricated components. When compared to a prefabricated foundation, the construction of a high-height monolithic strip will be incredibly unprofitable.
Materials
Materials like these are used by owners of private homes and vacation cottages to build the strip foundation for a bathhouse on their individual plots:
- brick;
- bottle;
- rubble concrete;
- monolithic reinforced concrete;
- precast concrete blocks.
Brick
Building foundations is a common use for bricks. The porous nature of red silicate bricks allows moisture to be actively absorbed.
The cost of waterproofing accounts for the majority of the cost of building this kind of foundation. On all sides, bituminous compounds are applied to the brickwork, and roofing felt is added for extra protection.
Any error committed during the waterproofing process could lead to the foundation’s collapse.
Booth
A broken or flagstone stone is called construction rubble. At both shallow soil freezing and deep groundwater levels, it is utilized as a masonry material. From it, a shallow tape is made.
A rubble base’s drawback is the high labor costs involved in fitting the broken pieces of rubble to form the base’s proper geometric shape.
One benefit of this kind of foundation is that materials are practically always readily available close to the open rubble stone occurrence.
Rubble concrete
It is constructed in a manner akin to that of a monolithic strip. The distinction is that flagstone or shattered stones are used as a concrete filler rather than crushed stone. The purpose of using rubble is to fill the cement mortar with less expensive, locally sourced materials.
Monolithic reinforced concrete
Every day, the use of monolithic reinforced concrete strips grows in popularity. This is made easier by the established infrastructure of facilities for the manufacture and distribution of liquid concrete as well as formwork rental services. The installation of a bathhouse foundation is made much easier by all of this.
Prefabricated formwork is simple to assemble and dismantle. It only takes a few hours to fill the formwork to the fullest level when concrete is delivered by concrete truck (mixer).
Foundation blocks
They make use of foundation blocks, which are a good choice for building subterranean strip foundations for bathrooms with basements.
Instead of trenches, a pit is dug for precast concrete, unlike monolithic tapes.
The quick building of foundation walls through the use of lifting mechanisms makes up for the substantial amount of excavation work. On hard soils, the tape is mounted from slabs and foundation blocks.
The weight of a bathhouse constructed with the heaviest materials can be supported by prefabricated reinforced concrete without reducing the number of floors.
There are a few simple steps involved in building a bathhouse strip foundation by hand, but the end result is a solid and dependable base. This guide will make the process easy even for novices by taking you step-by-step through every step, from preparation and excavation to laying the foundation and adding the finishing touches. You will be able to build a sturdy foundation that will support your bathhouse for many years to come with easy-to-follow directions and helpful advice.
What brand of concrete is used?
The concrete’s grade and the grade of cement used to make the concrete mortar are related. When pouring strip foundations, concrete M 300 is typically utilized. This kind of tape can support loads of up to 500 kg/cm2.
Grades M 400 and M 500 cement are used to prepare concrete M 300. A mortar mixer is used to prepare the concrete for pouring the bathhouse’s foundation. The following ratios of cement, sand, and crushed stone are added to the mortar mixer for each batch when using M 400 cement: 1: 1.9: 3.7.
Water should be added until the mixture has a creamy consistency. In order to prepare concrete using M 500 cement, the ratio should be 1: 4.4: 3 + water.
You will require less than M 400 to prepare M 300 and M 500 cement. In other words, more sand and crushed stone will be required, and more costly cement will be required in smaller amounts. The choice of cement brand to use for pouring the bathhouse’s strip foundation belongs to the developer.
The best option would be to pay for the delivery of concrete by automixer if you lack the time or physical capacity to prepare concrete yourself.
Concrete units with a track record of success are where you should order the solution. Instances of dishonest suppliers inflating the grade of liquid concrete are common.
How to do it yourself?
DIY construction involves a wide range of tasks and activities, including:
- Preparation.
- Marking.
- Excavation work and installation of sand and crushed stone cushion.
- Formwork assembly.
- Foundation reinforcement.
- Pouring with liquid concrete.
- Dismantling of formwork.
- Waterproofing.
Preparation
Among the preparatory tasks are:
- choosing a site for building a bathhouse;
- determination of soil characteristics;
- calculation of the width and depth of the foundation;
- preparation of materials and tools.
Site selection
The bathhouse’s location is selected to be equally spaced from nearby residential buildings and ancillary structures (sheds, warehouses, workshops, etc.).
Fire safety standards consider 15 to 20 meters to be the safe distance between objects. The bathhouse is not connected to any other buildings or structures.
Determination of soil composition
The bathhouse is situated on a private land. The local land management and architecture department can provide clarification if data on the characterization of the soil are lacking.
If this is not possible, the method of experimental drilling the earth at the site of future construction determines the composition of the soil, the freezing point, and the groundwater level.
It is preferable to get in touch with a nearby exploration service to avoid mistakes. Geologists will carry out an investigation and provide a precise assessment regarding the description of the soil foundation.
Calculation of width and depth
The computation of the bathhouse’s required support area establishes the foundation’s width. The entire load on the soil and the soil base’s calculation resistance are used to determine the area of the tape. The building’s weight must be less than the force that resists the soil.
The following inequality serves as the basis for calculating LF width. TXK/S ≤ R in this case:
- T is the specific gravity of the structure (kg/cm2),
- S – estimated foundation area (cm2),
- k – load safety factor (1.1).
The value of soil resistance R is obtained either experimentally by drilling and testing a 1 cm3 soil sample under load, or it is taken from a copy of a vertical survey with reference to the construction site. Calculate the bath’s maximum specific load, which will be less than the typical soil resistance.
For instance, the allowable specific load T = 1.8 kg/cm2 is used to determine the support area when R = 1.88 kg/cm2 (loam) and building weight P = 10,000 kg. The formula for it is S = P/T = 10000/1.8 = 5560 cm^^. The minimum width of the foundation will be b = 5560/2400 = 2.3 cm with a tape length of 24 m (2400 cm).
As a result, the ideal size is determined by adding the wall’s thickness to the base’s 30-mm side protrusion. That is, the width of the strip foundation will be 250 + 60 = 310 mm if the wall thickness is 250 mm (laying 1 brick).
The foundation’s depth and the tape’s height are directly correlated. The level of groundwater and the depth at which seasonal soil freezes determine this parameter in turn.
These data determine whether a shallow or deep foundation is used for the foundation. The height of the above-ground portion (base) and the depth at which it is positioned make up the vertical size of the tape. A bathhouse’s base is typically built 250–300 mm above ground.
Marking
The construction site receives a copy of the foundation plan. Benchmarks, which are wooden pegs or pieces of reinforcement, are used in marking with a cord:
- The area is cleared of vegetation and debris.
- Remove the fertile soil layer.
- Roulette markers are driven into the ground, starting from one of the corners of the plan in both directions.
- The result is rectangular cord fencing. The correctness of the right angles of the marking is checked by the equality of the diagonals.
Every 1.5 to 2 meters, pegs are driven in to keep the cord from sagging. Two parallel ropes are used to indicate the foundation strip’s width for ease of use.
Excavation work and installation of a sand and gravel bed
Step-by-step instructions:
- Trenches are dug using entrenching tools (shovels and picks). To prevent the walls of the pits from crumbling, PVC film or geotextiles are laid on the bottom. Their edges are turned up and secured with wood chips or nails to the cut of the soil.
- The depth of the ditches is checked with a laser level and a rod. The bottom of the trenches is corrected by adding crushed stone or excavating soil.
- The bottom should be 300 mm below the base of the base. Crushed stone and sand are poured into the trenches with a thickness of each layer of 150 mm.
- The pillow is compacted layer by layer and poured with water. Use a level to correct the mark of the anti-heaving base.
Installation of formwork
Formwork panels are made using boards, wood, thin metal, or sheets of dense polymer. Installed in trenches, the enclosing walls are reinforced with timber supports and spacers.
Geotextile or PVC film is used to cover the interior. Using nails or a stapler, the material is fastened to the boards.
Reinforcement
Smooth rods with an ø of 6 to 8 mm and periodic profile reinforcement with an ø of 8 to 10 mm are used in the production of reinforced frames.
The first one has two horizontal grids with 100 x 100 mm cells, and the second one has vertical connections formed by the cells. Binding wire is used to secure junction nodes.
The completed reinforced frame sections are lowered into trenches and fastened together. In order to fill the space and prevent the reinforcement from corroding, supports that are 50 to 70 mm tall are positioned beneath the lower grids.
Gaps between the formwork and reinforcement must be at least 30 mm wide for the same reason. Click this link to learn more about strip foundation reinforcement.
How to pour concrete mixture?
Concrete has to be poured into the formwork continuously for a maximum of six hours. This is required to prevent the formation of hardening layers within the solution mass. You will need roughly 6 m3 for a bathhouse foundation that is 6 x 6 m and has a monolithic strip cross-section that is 400 x 600 mm.
Ten batches are required to produce 1 m3. They will need to be completed sixty times for the entire foundation.
Filling it will take a few days. Additionally, using a vibrator to compact the concrete will take time. The best course of action would be to have an automixer deliver concrete to the construction site.
Dismantling of formwork
The formwork is taken down thirty days after the concrete is poured. Carefully and without undue force, the shields are removed to preserve the integrity of the monolith’s side surface.
Waterproofing
Cement mortar is applied to all of the monolith’s chips and cracks following the formwork’s removal. Bitumen mastic is applied to the strip foundation’s side surfaces. It is made liquid by heating it.
Use solvent-diluted waterproofing compounds as well. Roofing felt is also used to cover the foundation surfaces. After the work is finished, backfilling is done.
Features of the construction of the furnace base
The area most vulnerable to temperature variations brought on by the furnace’s heating and cooling is the furnace foundation.
The base for heating equipment is localized from the tape array to stop temperature fluctuations from spreading throughout the entire array.
The furnace base is divided using either asbestos sheets or 500 mm thick sand backfill. Crushed gravel, sand, and cement M 500 are combined in the following ratios to make concrete mortar: 1: 4: 2.5.
Possible errors and tips
You should avoid making the following errors during construction to ensure that you are not left with nothing when the bathhouse’s strip foundation is clearly destroyed:
- Incorrect assessment of bearing capacity will usually lead to foundation failure. When cracks and subsidence are detected, it is urgent to identify weak points and strengthen them.
- The use of low-quality materials and violations of waterproofing technology leads to moisture penetrating into the concrete mass and destroying it. In this case, the surfaces of the monolithic tape are freed from soil and re-coated with bitumen mastic along the entire perimeter.
- If the developer did not take care of the timely removal of the heaving layer of soil from the construction site, then soon the foundation strip will begin to collapse. Therefore, at the preparatory stage, soft soil must be removed to its entire depth.
- If the base of the foundation enters the soil freezing zone, it will necessarily cause fragmented deformation in the tape mass. In this case, it is necessary to dismantle the entire structure and resume construction of the bathhouse.
Video on the topic of the article
DIY bathhouse strip foundation, step-by-step instructions in a video:
This section contains all the most pertinent and useful information regarding building a bathhouse strip foundation.
Creating a strip foundation for your bathhouse is a worthwhile undertaking that guarantees the longevity of your building. You now know how to prepare the site, construct the formwork, mix and pour the concrete, and cure the foundation by following these detailed instructions. Every step is important, and success is guaranteed if you take your time at each one.
Your attention to detail is crucial, from laying the last layer of concrete to laying the foundation. Recall that careful preparation and accurate execution are essential. To prevent future structural problems, make sure your measurements are precise and your materials are of high quality.
In addition to saving you money, finishing a strip foundation yourself provides you with invaluable practical construction experience. Although it requires time and patience, the project is ultimately very rewarding. Your bathhouse now has a solid foundation on which to build the structure that will provide years of enjoyment and relaxation.
Now that the foundation is finished, you can concentrate on the subsequent stages of building your bathhouse, secure in the knowledge that you have a strong foundation. Take pride in the job you’ve done and relish the process of building your bathhouse.