Step-by-step instructions on how to lay paving and other slabs on a concrete blind area

Making changes to your outdoor area can be fulfilling and useful. Installing paving and other slabs on a concrete blind area is one common project. Although this task may initially seem difficult, with the correct direction, you can confidently take on this project on your own.

An attractive and long-lasting surface that can tolerate different weather conditions is what a well-paved blind area around your house offers. This tutorial will take you step-by-step through the procedure, guaranteeing that the end product looks professional.

Every stage is important, from assembling the required supplies to setting the concrete base and installing the slabs. The result will be significantly different if you pay attention to the details. These guidelines are meant to assist you in succeeding whether you’re an experienced do-it-yourselfer or a novice.

Let’s get into the project’s details, starting with the equipment and supplies you’ll need. We’ll start by leveling and securing the area, laying the slabs, and preparing it once you’re equipped. You’ll have a stunning and useful addition to your house at the end.

Arguments for and against styling

People in our nation tend to think that concrete blind areas are of the best quality. But over time, concrete can crumble and crack, which is unsightly and unappealing.

You can choose a middle ground by leaving the concrete covering in place and installing tiles on it, which will prevent the need for ongoing repairs to uneven areas and cracks and preserve the blind area’s tidy, well-groomed appearance.

Arguments in support of this choice (given compliance with technology):

1. Concrete will prevent the product from moving along the base; it will not “float” due to precipitation.
2. The concrete blind area can withstand heavy loads, so the likelihood of pushing, subsidence or chipping of the installed elements is reduced several times.
3. It is not necessary to spend time on the formation of a slope of the blind area to run out of moisture in drainage (provided that such a slope has already been made on a concrete coating). The slope should be from 1.5° to 5° away from the building. Then precipitation will be removed (by 95%), rainwater will not accumulate on the surface or flow between the seams.
4. The tiles can become an additional insulation for the foundation, which will prevent the soil from swelling during the cold season, and, accordingly, reduce the load on the building.
5. A blind area in the form of a tiled covering will give the house a finished appearance and improve the architectural parameters of the building.

However, if the technology is not used or the surface’s slope is not created, all these benefits could quickly become drawbacks.

It is important to honestly assess your strengths:

• is there any experience in carrying out such work;
• Do you have an understanding of the main operating points and knowledge of the nuances of finishing;
• will there be reliable drainage for wastewater disposal;
• Will it be possible to secure the last pouring layer from moisture by making it as hygroscopic as possible or add a special water -repellent layer in front of the tile.

It is best to avoid taking chances and not try to lay the material yourself if the answer is "no" to at least one of these questions. It is advised that parties involved in this matter, either individuals or a company, have prior experience with similar construction work and are aware of these issues. Otherwise, the owner of the house will be treated to a miserable sight, marred by moisture and swollen coating, rather than a blind area that deserves admiration.

Water, not time or load, is ultimately the enemy of tiles. Rainwater will seep into the seams because of poor drainage, which prevents it from flowing into the drainage.

Furthermore, water will not be able to seep into the ground because there is concrete underneath rather than a sand mixture; instead, it will have nowhere to go, and all of the moisture that has accumulated will build up beneath the material. The water that has accumulated will freeze, expand in volume, and easily remove the coating when frost arrives.

In the winter, the same holds true for ice and snow. All of this will thaw in the afternoon, seep into the cracks, freeze at night, and obliterate the material from the inside. There is only one conclusion to be drawn from this: a carefully considered drainage system is required.

If you want a completely level surface, it’s also a good idea to lay tile over concrete. First off, when there is a firm concrete base beneath the sand mortar, compacting it becomes easier. Second, fitting individual components to one another is made simpler on this foundation.

When preserving the smooth and natural lines of the terrain is required, using such a product on concrete is not appropriate.

What material can be used?

Suitable for concrete tile:

• sidewalk;
• ceramic;
• clinker.

You can be certain that the sand won’t sink, corrode, or wash out under the influence of water or as a result of dishonest compaction because concrete is underneath. The concrete covering will not move and will give the tiles a sturdy foundation.

Every kind of tile offers the following benefits:

1. Quick and easy installation.
2. Maintains performance even under the influence of temperature fluctuations and mechanical stress.
3. Easy to use. Dirt and debris can be easily removed from the tile surface.
4. Availability of repairs. To replace damaged tiles, you do not need to replace the entire area. It is enough to remove a separate element, make a backfill if necessary and install the whole tile.

However, it should be mentioned for the experiment’s integrity that paving tiles are more durable than ceramic and clinker tiles. And all because of how easily they can break and how thin the tiles are. As a result, compared to paving stones, there is a greater chance of chips and cracks developing if something falls on it.

Paving slabs are also modest in the uniformity of their base. Any curved surface can be covered with it by just adding the necessary quantity of sand mixture. Unlike sidewalks, ceramic and clinker tiles require an even base for installation, and you cannot move them right away.

What do you need for work??

To complete the task, the following equipment is needed:

• tape measure (minimum 5 m);
• level;
• trowel;
• mallet;
• pegs;
• fishing line;
• shovel;
• container for solution;
• rule;
• rammer.

The following supplies will be needed for the task:

1. Tile.
2. Sidewalk curb.
3. Clay.
4. Sand.
5. Crushed stone.
6. Cement (M300 and above).
7. Drainage collectors (gutter).
8. Geotextiles.
9. Waterproofing (in rolls).
10. Sealant.

Calculations always tell you to purchase a little bit more tile than you actually need. This is required because there could be a few defective tiles in the pallet, or certain elements could get damaged during the laying or trimming process.

How to lay products on a concrete base around the house?

Tile laying is merely the last step. You have to go through a few more stages of preparation before it.

Marking

Mark the future blind area’s contours with fishing line, a tape measure, and pegs. If the homeowner wishes to alter the width or form of an existing concrete blind area, this is necessary. The next steps (points 2-5) can be skipped if the blind area’s width and shape remain the same.

The foundation will be better shielded from moisture and be easier to move along if the blind area is larger.

The space designated for tiles but not covered by concrete can either be filled with concrete or treated with the following technology.

Excavation

Over the whole area of the future blind area, remove the top layer of soil. Add roughly 10 cm of clay, smooth it out, and then add at least 5 cm of sand, making sure to press it down as well.

Waterproofing

Bends and turns are taken into consideration when placing the material from the rolls in the trench. It is rolled out over the entire area.

Installing a curb

The horizontal movement of elements is restricted when a border is present. Also, having a support to push off of will make the installation process simpler overall.

Preparation for installation

After the waterproofing has been laid, 5 cm of sand is again applied, and it can be moistened before compacting. Next, 10 cm of crushed stone is compacted. Next is geotextile, followed by five centimeters of more sand. All layers are then lastly compacted and re-watered, making sure to take into account the slope.

Laying tiles

The tiles have to be installed on a 3 cm or cement-sand bedding that has been leveled over the area in accordance with the rule.

Tile installation should be done in rows, beginning at the curb and working your way up to the basement wall (so that the cutting is hidden beneath the base or next to the wall). With a mallet, each component is struck deeply and against the other (rubber hammer).

After laying multiple rows, use a rule to ensure that the line is even, and use a mallet to strike any areas that bulge. Grout must be poured into the seams every 1 m2, and any leftovers must be removed with a wide brush (keeping the mixture inside the seam). To ensure that the solution sets after laying, make sure to cover the entire blind area with water.

After a few days, the filled seams can be examined for quality, and if more filling is required, it can be made and then moistened with water. The tiles and base shouldn’t fit perfectly. It’s crucial to leave a tiny space, or an expansion joint, in case the material expands.

Sand needs to be sifted multiple times before use because small pebbles in the grout will not hold up well with any type of tile. Tiles made of ceramic or clinker can have their seams sealed using an outdoor grout.

Prior to installing ceramic or clinker tiles, the concrete base must be leveled and any cracks must be sealed; if not, the material’s thin thickness will cause it to take on the shape of the surface, creating a curved line.

There’s no need to select extremely vivid paving slabs. This is a sign of a technological transgression, and this kind of content is only meant to last a few seasons. The hue ought to be subdued and understated.

You can see in the video how to install paving slabs on a concrete surface:

Errors in the process

Numerous people make the following errors as a result of inexperience or ignorance:

1. Incorrectly or poorly prepared base.
2. Inaccurate calculation of tile laying. If you need to do the installation without trimming the elements, then it is important to calculate in advance the number of tiles for each row.
3. Hasty installation of a curb. It is important to first lay out several test rows of tiles and then, starting from this, install borders.
4. Incorrect installation of elements. Parts should not intersect at the seams on adjacent rows. This reduces the material"s ability to withstand loads.
5. Presence of color spots on the laid out area. For uniform distribution of color, it is better to take products from 3-4 pallets at once, rather than from just one, since the color may differ in different pallets.

Your outdoor space can be made more functional and aesthetically pleasing by adding slabs of paving and other materials to a concrete blind area. You can easily finish the task by following the straightforward, step-by-step instructions provided in this article. You’ll find helpful hints and precise instructions at every turn, from prepping the concrete base to placing the slabs and guaranteeing a level finish. These instructions will make the process simple and satisfying, regardless of your level of experience with do-it-yourself projects. The end product will be a long-lasting and eye-catching surface for your house.

Pros and cons of use

Utilizing tile over concrete is dependable, long-lasting (with a 40-year service life), and aesthetically pleasing.

Puddles or dirt do not form on this coating. Additionally, you can experiment and create any blind area design thanks to the elements’ variety of colors and shapes.

The clinker’s or ceramic coating’s slightly slick surface, fragility from heavy object impacts, and extended exposure to mechanical load are a few drawbacks.

Cost of tile material in Russia

The price of materials varies among Russian Federation cities based on store markup and manufacturer. However, the material’s average cost is roughly as follows:

• ceramic – from 24 rub. for 1 piece.;
• clinker – from 60 rub. for 1 piece.;
• sidewalk – from 12 rub. for 1 piece.

The product’s pattern, color, and shape all affect its price.

This section contains important and practical information about setting up a blind area using paving slabs.

Step	Description
1	Prepare the area by removing any grass, roots, or debris.
2	Level the ground and compact it using a tamper or roller.
3	Lay a layer of gravel or crushed stone for drainage.
4	Compact the gravel layer to create a solid base.
5	Mix and pour concrete for the blind area, ensuring an even surface.
6	Allow the concrete to cure completely before proceeding.
7	Apply a thin layer of sand or mortar on the concrete.
8	Lay the paving slabs, pressing them firmly into place.
9	Fill the gaps between the slabs with sand or mortar.
10	Compact the slabs and gaps to ensure stability.

Paving and other slabs can be laid on a concrete blind area to improve the look and use of your outdoor space. It’s a practical and satisfying project. You can attain a polished finish that will look good for years by following these detailed instructions.

Prepare the concrete surface first. Make sure everything is clean and free of any loose material, dirt, or debris. A spotless surface guarantees improved adhesion and averts further problems. In order to guarantee straight lines and accurate placement, measure and mark the area where the slabs will be laid.

Next, prepare a mortar or adhesive based on the manufacturer’s recommendations. Using a trowel, evenly apply the adhesive to the concrete surface, working in small sections to keep it from drying out. To guarantee a solid bond, carefully place each slab onto the adhesive and press down firmly. For a uniform appearance, use spacers to keep the gaps between the slabs constant.

After every slab has been installed, check the alignment and make any required corrections. Before walking on the surface, let the adhesive cure in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Lastly, to stop movement and create a finished look, fill the spaces between the slabs with jointing material, like sand or a specialty joint filler.

By following these steps, you can create a long-lasting and visually appealing outdoor space by confidently laying paving and other slabs on a concrete blind area. You can preserve the best-looking paved area for many years to come with routine maintenance like cleaning and joint filler reapplication.

Video on the topic

Laying paving slabs – detailed instructions

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base, experiment

laying paving stones on concrete / JOIN object

Laying paving slabs on concrete. Beauty, and that"s all.