Warm baseboard

Warm baseboards are a creative and effective option for home heating that is worth taking into consideration. Warm baseboards offer a stylish, compact alternative to forced-air or bulky radiator-based traditional heating systems. They are aesthetically pleasing and functional, fitting in perfectly with any decor.

Hot water is circulated via pipes that are positioned along the bottom of your walls to power warm baseboards. By ensuring uniform heat distribution throughout the space, this technique gets rid of drafts and cold spots. They provide a soft, even warmth that makes a home feel comfortable and warm, especially during the cold winter months.

The energy efficiency of warm baseboards is one of their main advantages. They frequently use less energy than conventional systems because they heat spaces more evenly and keep a constant temperature. They are therefore an environmentally friendly option for contemporary homes as they can result in lower heating costs and a smaller environmental impact.

Warm baseboards have several practical benefits in addition to a variety of design options. They are available in a variety of styles and finishes so you can match them to the decor of your home. There is a warm baseboard design that will blend in perfectly with your decor, whether it is more traditional or modern.

All things considered, warm baseboards offer a chic and astute heating option. Their exceptional combination of comfort, efficiency, and versatile design makes them a great option for any homeowner wishing to upgrade their heating system. Incorporating warm baseboards for a contemporary and effective heating option is something to think about when planning a renovation or new construction project.

What is this

One way to heat a private residence or an apartment in a tall building is by using:

• autonomous or centralized water heating through radiators;
• ovens;
• convectors of various types;
• "warm floors".

Every system for space heating on this list has advantages and disadvantages. Warm skirting board (TP)—a heating device mounted in place of the typical floor skirting board—allows for the elimination of numerous drawbacks. It’s true that TP created new issues after solving some old ones.

A thermal skirting board is a relatively new invention in Russia, having debuted about 15 years ago. Yet, it has been in use for several decades in a few European, American, and Japanese nations. There, it serves as the primary form of heating and, infrequently, as an auxiliary.

Device

A metal or plastic (PVC) box that is fixed in place of the skirting board and contains heating elements is the basic component of a warm skirting board. The case is tiny, measuring between 10 and 20 cm in height and 3 and 5 cm in thickness.

Inside the skirting board, at a distance of 7-15 cm from each other, two copper tubes for a liquid coolant (water or antifreeze) or a heat-resistant cable and an electric heating element are attached. In most devices, this is the familiar heating element. To increase heat transfer, round plates or panels made of aluminum, brass (they cost less, but the heat transfer is worse) or copper (a more efficient option, for which you will have to pay more) are placed on the tubes. The entire system is covered with a decorative aluminum panel (not chosen by chance – at an affordable price it conducts heat well, and when heated, radiates it). Some manufacturers may have a PVC front panel.

Principle of operation

The warm baseboard operation principle in stone-walled buildings (brick, concrete, gas blocks, etc.).d.) is notably dissimilar from the technique of heating wooden structures (which encompasses frame houses as well).

Stone houses

A warm baseboard operates using all three of these heat transfer techniques:

• convection;
• IR radiation;
• heat transfer.

It is thought that the wall and a portion of the air in the space are heated by convection, which accounts for about 30% of the total heat. The wall material can be heated through heat transfer, and the room is warmed by the infrared radiation it emits. Heat rises to the top and appears to creep up the walls and into the ceiling. The front cover of the skirting board radiates a tiny amount of heat.

If we dig deeper into the issue, we find that the TP actually radiates infrared light from the front panel for the remaining 70–80% of the heat it produces into the room and walls through convection. However, the room is heated as previously mentioned.

Wooden walls

Wood doesn’t transfer heat well. Furthermore, a thermal break created by the laying of moss, flax, or jute between the crowns prevents the wall from heating up above the second crown. As a result, convection currents—which can reach 90%—are mostly used to heat the space. Heat transfer and infrared radiation account for about 10% of the total.

Does it help you save on heating?

Every manufacturer states in the product description that thermoplinths can reduce energy consumption by up to 30%. They use cutting-edge advancements in heating technology as an explanation, or they draw on the experience of Western nations, where people value every penny or yen. Consequently, warm skirting boards would go unclaimed as energy costs rose. Additionally, the USA, Japan, and many European nations use it extensively.

The TP’s working theory, which heats the walls first and the air in the room second with their assistance, is one aspect of this tale that causes confusion. So let’s solve it together.

First things first: thermoplinth is not found in the northern United States or in any of the Scandinavian countries. This situation can be explained mathematically and logically.

Logically. With central heating, for example, 100 kcal of heat is supplied to the room through radiators. It was all distributed inside the room. The walls, especially the outer ones and the corners next to them, are cold. It"s easy to check – just stand up and touch them. Consequently, practically no calories were spent on heating the brick or concrete. With a warm baseboard, you must first heat the wall material to 25-39 o C (this is the operating principle of the baseboard heating system) and only then warm the room. But such an operation needs to be warm, and a lot. Consequently, of the 100 kcal supplied to the baseboard heater, a significant part will be wasted. To compensate for losses and reach the level supplied by heat batteries, additional energy resources are needed. That"s all efficiency.

In terms of math. We use the following formula from the physics course to calculate heat loss:

In this case, Q stands for heat loss (W); S for wall area (m2); T for temperature difference between the exterior and interior surfaces of the wall (T = Tvn – T sn), o C; and R for the wall material’s thermal resistance (m 2 x o C/W).

Let’s count now.

• wall area – 8.5 m2;
• thermal resistance of brickwork – 0.89 (m 2 x o C)/W;
• outside air temperature – -20 o C.

In order to maintain calculation integrity, we will assume that baseboard and central heating systems have the same wall area and material composition. The temperature of the outer wall remains constant. On the other hand, the interior surface warms differently. The formula indicates that the heat loss increases with increasing temperature difference (T in our case). We make an assumption.

Suppose that the batteries by the window heat the wall to 20 oC, and the outside temperature is -20 oC and frosty. There is absolutely no warming in the regions to the right and left of the window.

In our scenario, the temperature differential will only be 40 o C in the vicinity of the battery (cm. picture above). And still less elsewhere.

Use the following formula to substitute the numbers: Q = 8.5 m 2 x 40 o C / 0.89 (m 2 x o C)/W = 382 W.

Assuming that the same amount of heat entered the room in both scenarios, using a warm baseboard will cause the wall to warm up to at least 25 o C.As a result, the numerator will already be 45 o C.

The heat loss of a warm baseboard is now calculated as follows: Q = 8.5 m 2 x 45 o C / 0.89 (m 2 x o C)/W = 430 W.

It turns out that the amount of heat loss that requires compensation increases with the amount of heat applied to the wall. Furthermore, these are extra energy sources.

The installation of warm skirting boards on interior walls may cause skeptics to object. In this instance, heat loss won’t occur. That is how it works in theory. However, if you don’t heat the wall next to the window, the dew point will always be inside the window structure due to our actions, causing an endless flood on the glass and window sill. And this is mold and moisture, which can only be eliminated by changing the window components.

In conclusion, there is no need to discuss thermal baseboard energy efficiency. For primary heating, TP is not financially viable.

Additionally, the same formula leads to two more conclusions:

• in countries where in winter the air temperature drops to only +5-10 o C, such heating systems can be used without significant overpayments – heat loss is minimal;
• in wooden and frame houses, where the heat loss indicator is insignificant (0.44 O C M 2 /W) and there is no much difference between the heating of the inner surface of the wall (practically no heat transfer) with different heating methods, the cost of heating thermal elbus will be higher, but about 5 % within the limit.

Pros and cons of using

Due to the new product’s aggressive advertising campaign, the majority of warm baseboard reviews are positive and full of benefits, while some are fictitious or exaggerated. A closer look paints an entirely different picture.

• long service life – durability has been proven in a number of European countries, the USA and Japan, where such a heating system has a long history;
• heated walls do not deteriorate from moisture – fungus and mold are excluded;
• save useful space due to the absence of radiators;
• heating of the room is uniform;
• there are no high-power convection currents – less dust flies around the room, and, therefore, there will be less cleaning work;
• heating the room due to infrared radiation in the soft range has a positive effect on the health of family members;
• just remove dust, unlike radiators, which is plus allergy sufferers and asthmatics;
• looks beautiful. You can always choose a color to match the design of the room;
• a completely safe type of heating: burns and fires are excluded;
• Full compatibility with any type of flooring.

• limited choice of wall finishing materials – many of them block heat inside the wall. For example, you cannot use liquid and embossed vinyl wallpaper; all types of panels block IR radiation. This is not written anywhere. But the problem exists and there is no escape from it;
• high price equipment. According to various estimates, you will have to pay an amount 5-10 times more compared to traditional batteries and 2-3 times more than a “warm floor”;
• heating costs are 15-35% higher compared to batteries (depending on the perimeter of the walls, their height, thickness and material);
• Furniture cannot be placed next to walls. There are two points here. Firstly, the free passage of infrared radiation is blocked, and secondly, the system itself can overheat and fail. Manufacturers and sellers are also silent about this drawback. The authors of articles on the Internet practically don’t write about this, and if they do, they recommend using high legs. But this is not enough;
• the air becomes dry – you need to constantly humidify it using special devices or wet rags near a heat source;
• If you install it yourself, most manufacturers will void the warranty. Therefore, when purchasing, you need to pay attention to this nuance.

Myths

Let’s move on to the myths.

1. Manufacturers provide information regarding the effectiveness of warm baseboards during operation, and online sources repeat this information. It has been demonstrated above that this is untrue.

2. The installation of thermal plinth results in energy savings by forming a shield that stops heat from leaving the apartment. The "plus" above indicates one thing: the author had, to put it mildly, subpar physics grades in school. After all, when they rise near a wall or large window, the warm air causes them to warm, which in turn heats the street. There are no shortcuts here; calories will be lost outside of the heated space.

3. There is warm air below and cold air above, meaning that there is no air convection. One more piece of nonsense. In any case, the cooled air flow will decrease. The only differences are that the flow system is entirely different, going from the radiator to the middle of the ceiling (the center of the room), and going vertically to semi. The speed of air movement is also slower (its temperature at the starting point is lower).

4. The room has an even distribution of heat. Another myth propagated by producers and bolstered by online sources. Many drawings showing the temperature distribution throughout the room are included to support their theory (see picture below).

It is simple to dispute such a claim. Understanding the fundamental laws of physics is sufficient.

First of all, it cannot move from the baseboard to the ceiling at the same air temperature. However, the flow is upward. All those who aren’t too indolent write about this: suppliers, manufacturers, and websites with construction-related content. So let’s make a decision: if there is a flow along the walls, the room’s temperature will differ; if there isn’t a flow, the air layers will all be heated equally. This is a contradiction, as we can see, because one excludes the other.

Second, the temperature of a wall in an apartment with warm baseboards appears to be uneven on a thermogram, but it should warm up uniformly. Ultimately, the air’s temperature is constant throughout its whole height. One more thing to consider is the varying levels of infrared radiation. The blue region has weaker levels of this radiation, which means the wall beneath the ceiling won’t be able to adequately warm the room.

In addition, the center of the room is consistently 1-2 oC colder than the vicinity of the walls. Another physics law is this one.

5. Infrared radiation is mostly responsible for heating. Convectional heat transfer is thought to be limited to 5% (some sources suggest as much as 20%–30%). However, this is only applicable to stone walls. Everything is correct when building a private home with a frame and wood, but insulation and wood have very low heat conductivity. In this instance, the existence of a thermal break composed of moss, flax, or another type of tape insulation between the crowns must be considered. Thus, convection currents alone are used to heat this area.

Warm baseboard heating uses hot water circulating through pipes along the baseboards to provide consistent warmth, making it an effective and cozy form of home heating. As an alternative to forced-air heating and conventional radiators, this system is energy-efficient and quiet. It’s perfect for keeping the house comfortable, minimizing cold spots, and improving general comfort. Warm baseboards are a sensible option for both new construction and renovations because of their simple installation and minimal maintenance requirements, which guarantee a comfortable, uniformly heated living area.

Kinds

Water or electricity can power a thermal plinth.

Water warm baseboard

Using a warm water baseboard, the room is heated in accordance with traditional central heating principles. To make it work, you’ll need:

• heat source – a boiler using any type of fuel (gas, fuel oil, firewood, coal, pellets, electricity, including that obtained from solar panels);
• distribution unit (collector);
• a pipe system made of copper, brass, aluminum, metal-plastic or cross-linked polyethylene (some manufacturers have polypropylene pipes) with a diameter of 15 mm to 20 mm.

Crucial: Metal is a better heat conductor. It is therefore preferable to refuse plastic.

Note: this page lists the benefits and drawbacks of every kind of pipe used in these kinds of systems.

• radiators – thin copper, aluminum or brass plates or lamellas that increase heat transfer;
• panels, front (decorative) and back (protective).

The tubes are positioned close to the baseboard on the wall. Water or antifreeze (which can be heated to 70 o C, but 40 o C is thought to be the best option, allowing the room to be heated to 22–23 o C) is the coolant that is pumped through them by a pump. Hot liquid is supplied through the upper tube and released through the lower because the circuit is closed. Conversely, if this is the case, the return is heated, resulting in energy resource losses.

The system has a maximum length of 15 meters (some manufacturers indicate 16 meters). Hydraulic resistance prevents longer circuits from working because the pump cannot force coolant the full distance through the pipes. Therefore, multiple circuits are installed on a longer wall length.

With a collector, you can quickly adjust the coolant temperature in response to outside weather conditions, either manually or automatically (thermostats with servo drives needed).

The system has advantages and disadvantages.

• versatility – can be placed not only inside an apartment or house, but also in loggias and balconies;
• the room is heated evenly, without cold or overheated zones;
• durability – service life more than 30 years;
• aesthetic appearance;
• Possibility to choose the color of the baseboard to match the design of the room.

• impossibility of installation in apartments with central heating – a permit is required, which is practically not issued;
• complex connection in the presence of several circuits – you need to lay many pipes in the floor screed (by analogy with a warm floor);
• cannot be installed with the floor covering laid;
• high cost of materials due to the long length of expensive pipes;
• difficult maintenance and repair;
• installation requires special equipment for connecting metal pipes (welding or soldering) and work experience.

Electrical

The electric warm baseboard is essentially an aluminum baseboard with a tubular electric heater (TEH) hidden inside. To enhance heat transfer, large-area copper metal plates are mounted on the heating rod. The figure below displays the device diagram.

The heating system offers benefits and drawbacks.

• simple and quick installation – the installation can be done by the owner of the apartment or house himself;
• independent heating system for each room;
• simple temperature regulator;
• there are no difficulties during repairs (everything is accessible), especially compared to “warm floors”.

• afraid of high humidity – cannot be used in the bathroom;
• high price of the system;
• high energy costs.

Which one is better to choose?

Purchasing apartment-specific electrical systems is necessary if you truly want to use thermal baseboards for heating. Unlike liquid heating, they are simple to install and don’t need an installation permit.

It is vital to take acquisition, installation, and operating costs into account when building privately. There is no denying the benefits of liquid heating systems when comparatively inexpensive energy sources are available, such as supplied natural gas or solar panels mounted on buildings. However, you must consider the installation factor in this case. Since the pipes connecting the collector to the circuit cannot be hidden, you will need to install an electric warm baseboard when the floor covering is laid on a screed.

Popular makes and models

Warm baseboards are perceived by most customers as "dark forest." Potential customers are uncertain about where to begin if they wish to purchase. As a result, we will offer them a "helping hand" by outlining which brands are reliable and why. We guarantee that site visitors are unaware of the existence of numerous businesses.

Thus, the top thermal baseboard rankings.

1. "Mr. Tektum"

Customer reviews rank the warm baseboard "Mr. Tektum" as the top choice. Because of the anglicized name, if anyone assumed this was an imported model, they were gravely mistaken. This is a product of AldenGroup, a Russian company.

Under this brand, manufacturers provide high-quality electric and water thermal panels. The models are heavily modified to accommodate the realities of the Russian climate, but they are based on a baseboard heating system from an Austrian company.

Among the systems in the range are:

• Home collection;
• Smart Line;
• module;
• Classic.

The two systems are assembled in housings (plinths) with the same measurements (sections): 30 mm in thickness and 145 mm in height. Aluminum components used in housing. When installing water heating, it’s crucial to have a connection system between the modules and with nearby ones because multiple circuits can be concealed under a single housing. One more innovation is the ability to install an electric heater and cable inside water heating pipes. In this instance, the upper pipe becomes a cable channel and the lower pipe becomes a housing for the heating element. However, the system also exists in fully electric versions.

Thermal power for both heating systems is 200 W per linear meter. It’s true that the amount of variation in liquid heating depends on the pump’s pressure and the liquid’s temperature at the inlet.

• perfect assembly. In such cases, people say: “a mosquito won’t erode your nose”;
• good design – can be matched to any interior;
• automatic operation is stable – no human intervention is required;
• 5-year warranty;
• durability – manufacturers talk about practically “eternal” operation of devices.

• high cost of 1 linear meter:
• water systems can be bought – from 6,500 rubles.;
• electric in water pipes – from 7,700 rubles.;
• purely electric – from 5,000 rubles.;
• in the first days of operation there is an unpleasant smell from the cables, as well as a little noise. Over time, everything disappears;
• in cold weather, skirting boards still cannot cope with the main heating;
• in electric systems, the cord is a bit short, in addition, it is a different color than the body. The disadvantage is not critical – you can connect to an outlet behind the skirting board. In this case, the entire system will be hidden.

2. "Orion"

The "Orion" brand, one of the greatest members of the "electric family" of thermal skirting boards, rounds out the rating. A group of scientists from Siberia have developed a novel heat engineering invention at home. The limited liability company "Orion," with its headquarters situated in St. Petersburg, is responsible for producing the product.

The managers of the company claim that in order to produce one kcal of heat, they were able to nearly quadruple their electricity consumption. a striking declaration that attracts potential customers. However, this is a well-worn marketing trick. First of all, physicists would be racking their brains trying to come up with a new way to turn electrical energy into heat if things really were this way. Second, the technique would be patentable right away and used in other electrical heating appliances.

A cylindrical heating element with numerous metal plates to improve heat transfer makes up the Orion baseboard heater. One tube makes up the original heating element; no additional cable is needed. situated within the body of the baseboard. clamped into place on the back panel. The casing itself is also unique in that, after assembly, a space for cold air to pass through between the panels at the bottom is left open, and a nozzle at the top directs heated air flow along the walls and up to the ceiling.

There are twenty different design options available for back and decorative skirting panels. Measurements: 118 x 36 mm. This makes ordering sections easy. Sections are sold in lengths ranging from 500 mm to 2000 mm in increments of 500 mm. Here, the number of system components—such as connecting sections, plugs, internal and external corners, fasteners, etc.—is determined by the seller directly.

150 Watts per linear meter is the skirting power. The specific heat transfer can vary within ±10% depending on the system length and operating conditions. The heating element’s maximum heating temperature is 105 o C, and its maximum operating temperature is 55 o C.

Orion has advantages and disadvantages like any other gadget.

• assembly level – European. If you want to find fault, it won’t work;
• It is always possible to match the design of the plinth to the interior of the room;
• assembly and switching are very simple – no electrician is needed;
• automatic control allows you to create comfortable living conditions.

• high cost of the system – starts from 4,900 rubles. per 1000 mm;
• the price of additional decorative elements is frightening – without them it will not be possible to obtain an aesthetically finished look of the plinth;
• energy savings are illusory.

One of the complaints on the forums is that there isn’t an electrical cord or plug. However, in this specific case, the manufacturers are correct. You can cut down on the number of network cables and plugs you need by buying sections to put together into a long module. After figuring out how many systems you need, it is preferable to purchase each one separately or even connect them straight to the socket behind the rear panel using the terminals.

There were no additional reported operational issues.

3. White RAL9003 "Charley" Standard water model

The "Charley" Standard warm water baseboard is another item made in the country. consists of connecting and rotating elements, a decorative panel, a heat-resistant back plate, and a heating module made up of copper tubes with a 15 mm diameter that have lamella plates placed on them to increase heat transfer. The housing may be made of PVC or aluminum.

• height – 140 mm;
• thickness – 64 mm;
• length of the sold section – 2,000 mm.

Soldering is the method used to put the circuit together.

There are two modes of operation for the heating system: main and auxiliary.

• durability – copper tubes have no restrictions on service life. More likely, poor-quality soldering may fail;
• 5 year warranty;
• full set;
• the ability to order the design of the planks to match the interior of the room (available in only three colors);
• the system can be integrated with any boiler equipment or central heating;
• no extraneous noise when heating or cooling pipes.

• relatively high price – you can buy 1 linear meter from 5,160 rubles., 2 linear meters from RUB 10,020.

No additional flaws were discovered.

With comparable operational and technical traits as well as benefits and drawbacks, the "Charley" Premier and Power models are also well-liked. variations in the panel’s design.

4. "STN"

The logo makes it obvious that "STN" is another Russian business that specializes in cutting-edge heating technologies. There is, in fact, something to observe and something to discover.

The heating element was made with cutting-edge technology. This is a panel with a unique metal tape sealed into it in an amorphous (without crystalline structure) state rather than the heating element that is typically found in most heating devices. You can benefit from this solution in terms of safety, heating efficiency, and cost-effective electricity use.

There are two models available: the white or brown STN-1 and STN-1T. The thermostats’ presence or absence (the thermostats’ index "T" indicates their presence) is what separates them. Furthermore, models may have two distinct levels of protection: enhanced (IP 67) and standard (IP 24). The device can function in water thanks to the final level. As a result, showers, bathtubs, and other bathrooms can safely install it.

There are no additional noteworthy functional differences.

• thickness – 20 mm;
• height – 160 mm;
• length – 1000 mm.

One module, measuring one meter in length, dissipates 250 W of heat, but this is at maximum load.

• attractive price (from RUB 5,900.) with good technical and operational indicators;
• installation is simple – even a high school student can handle it;
• warranty – 5 years.

• not a very long service life – about 10 years;
• outdated design – with good quality, it was possible to come up with more modern forms;
• only two colors;
• the meter length of the section often does not fit into the length of the wall. Competitors offer a pitch of 500 mm.

5. "SoftTerm"

"Soft heat" is the translation of the name of the company that manufactures baseboard heating systems. This has a straightforward explanation: it creates heating appliances that rely on infrared radiation and convection. The electric thermoplinth "STEP PN-200" is one of the items.

There is just one model, and it has the same white design.

The dimensions of the device—height 140 mm, thickness 35 mm—indicate its compactness.

200 W of power.

The system can be used in bathrooms due to its high level of protection (IP54), but it is probably not meant for use in a swimming pool or bathhouse.

The front panel can heat up to 75 degrees Celsius. This implies that accidental contact won’t burn you, but it will hurt.

• relatively low price – starts from 3,900 rubles. for 1.1 m;
• durability – the manufacturer indicates 25 years;
• long warranty period – 8 years;
• simple installation;
• high level of protection from dust and moisture.

• The set does not include a thermostat;
• there is no variety in models and design;
• low power (200 W at 1100 mm);
• More suitable for hanging on the wall.

Calculation of warm baseboard

The length of a warm baseboard can be determined in two different methods.

1. Go to the manufacturer"s website and use the calculator. In some cases, it will provide not only the required power of the heating system, but also the number of required elements;
2. Make the calculation yourself. There are no difficulties on this path. It is enough to know the area of ​​the room and the height of the ceiling. And then we will use the averaged data:
3. to heat 10 m2 of area with a ceiling height of up to 3 m, you need to get 1 kW of energy;
4. average heat flow power of 1 linear meter of thermal baseboard – 200 W or 0.2 kW (200:1000).

Consequently, a heating system of 7 m will be needed to heat a 14 m2 room (14 m2: 10 m2: 0.2). We multiply the outcome by 1.2-1.25 because we want to be prepared for extremely cold weather outside.

Installation instructions

There are differences in the installation technologies used for electric and water heated baseboards. As a result, we will go over how to install a warm water baseboard first, followed by an electric baseboard.

Installation of a water-heated baseboard

Baseboard heating installation starts with a project, ideally on paper, to ensure that no details are overlooked that later appear to be significant. The design process starts with figuring out the boiler’s power, the heating and supply pipes’ diameters, the length of each circuit, and how to connect them.

Long before the heating elements are installed, the installation process itself starts. In the interim, it’s imperative that:

• install the boiler and check its performance;
• connect the collector
• stretch the coolant and return pipes along the base of the floor (before pouring the screed). At the same time, understand the connection system of each circuit, i.e.To. sequential method is excluded. Most likely, the beam connection method is suitable;

• plug the ends of the pipes, and then check the integrity of the connection. To do this, increase the pressure in the system to 2-3 atm;
• fill the screed.

When the repairs are finished, you can start putting in the heated baseboard. The following is the work order:

• mark the installation lines for the rear panel – the box should be at a height of 1 cm from the floor;
• Focusing on the line, stick heat-insulating tape on the wall;

• attach the panel to the drawn line and mark the places where it is attached to the wall;
• drill holes in the marked places and drive in dowels;
• fix the back part of the plinth to the wall using self-tapping screws;
• carefully cut the insulation so that it does not protrude beyond the dimensions of the back cover;
• drill two holes for self-tapping screws in the supporting brackets. You can use "bugs". In this case, drilling is not necessary;

• Insert the brackets into the bar in increments of 50 cm;

• the lower parts of the brackets are broken and removed;

• A fluoroplastic gasket is inserted into the brackets;

• heating module is being prepared for installation. If longer than necessary, cut off. To connect to another module or supply pipes, remove 2-3 lamellas from the edge. Connecting nuts, rubber gaskets of fittings and crimping cones are put on the ends of the tubes;

• sections are connected to each other;
• the circuit is connected to the collector. Tighten nuts everywhere. Make the final crimp;

• water is introduced into the system under pressure to check the quality of connections;
• the heating module is installed in brackets;

• decorative covers are installed.

The system is operational.

Installation of electric thermoplinth

The two steps involved in installing an electric skirting board are assembling the tools and making the necessary component purchases.

Materials and tools

In order to work, you’ll need:

• electric heating section (the quantity is determined when calculating the power);
• panels – back and decorative;
• top bar;
• decorative elements (inner and outer corners, connecting strip);
• brackets;
• plaster, dry or in paste form;
• heating elements (heating elements);
• power cable;
• thermostat (often not included, so must be purchased separately);
• set of terminals and thermal tubes;
• contact group box (will fit under the socket);
• box for protecting the connection points of heating elements;
• electric drill or hammer drill;
• drill;
• crown;
• Bulgarian;
• screwdriver;
• construction hair dryer;
• spatulas;
• pencil or marker;
• self-tapping dowel.

Installation instructions

Any do-it-yourself enthusiast who has ever handled construction equipment can put together an electric baseboard heating system. We will not only explain the work, but also provide pertinent images to help visualize it in order to prevent any problems.

The following order is followed when using technology:

• determine the installation location of the thermostat (at least 30 cm from the top edge of the plinth) and the connection box (behind the back wall of the plinth);

• use an electric drill or a hammer drill with a crown to cut out a slot for the box;

• grooves are made in the wall for laying electrical wiring from the distribution panel to the box and thermostat. You can see how to do everything correctly here;

• the box and thermostat are installed;

• the wires are laid and then sealed with plaster;
• the walls are measured, after which all types of planks are cut to size using a grinder (by and large, only one set is cut so that the plinth after assembly becomes a multiple of the length of the wall);
• the back bar is connected to the top;

• plugs are placed at the beginning and end of the heating system;

• the back panel is pressed against the wall. The attachment points are marked with a pencil or marker;
• holes are drilled in the wall. Dowels are driven into them;
• the protective strip is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. Step 45 cm;

• brackets are fixed in the rear bar at a distance of 30 cm from each other;

• heating module is cut to size. In this case, the threaded rods of heating elements should protrude beyond the copper tubes by approximately 3 cm.;

• The heating elements are bent in a wave-like manner so that it is possible to insert them into the lower pipe tightly, without play;

• an electric cable is pulled into the upper tube so that there is 30 cm left at both ends for connection;
• 5-7 cm of insulation is removed from the cable, the cores are stripped to 10 mm;

• a heat-shrinkable tube is placed on the cable;

• terminals connect the ends of the heating elements and the stripped cable cores;

Note: Use the connection diagrams in Figs. 1 and 2, respectively, to connect one heating element.

• Using a construction hairdryer, heat-shrinkable tubes are sealed at the junction of the heating element and the cable;

• heating modules are connected to the thermostat and the power supply system;

Take note: there are differences in the thermostat wiring diagrams. Examine the instructions, please.

• the heating module is inserted into the brackets. Fixation ends with a characteristic click;

• the contact group is closed with a special box;

• decorative strip is installed. To do this, it is first wound up by the lower hooks of the brackets, and then latched with force;

• decorative elements are placed.

Everything, it seems. Nothing has been forgotten by us.

Is it possible to make a warm baseboard with your own hands?

We’ll now explain to you how to build a warm water baseboard yourself, saving a significant sum of money. Homemade products can be made with aluminum profiles or based on roofing copper.

First option: constructed of copper. In order to work, you must prepare the necessary supplies and equipment and research assembly technology.

Materials and tools

In order to work, you’ll need:

• copper tubes for passing coolant with an internal diameter of 10-20 mm;
• plastic pipes for closing the circuit;
• swivel fittings for connecting copper to plastic;
• roofing sheet copper 0.4 mm thick;
• electric drill;
• self-tapping dowel;
• clips for attaching tubes;
• metal scissors;
• adjustable wrench;
• gas-burner;
• plumbing solder with a copper content of 3%;
• flux;
• level, preferably laser;
• roulette;
• construction pencil.

Manufacturing technology

The tasks are completed in the following sequence:

1. copper sheet is cut into plates 15 cm wide and no more than 3 m long (with a longer length it is difficult to work – the plate “walks”);
2. the edges of the resulting workpieces are bent at an angle of 90° to the base. Bend size – 7-8 mm;
3. tubes are soldered to the inside of the strip using plumbing solder, a gas torch and flux. At the same time, to avoid deformation of copper due to overheating, the burner flame must be directed towards the tube. The ends of the tubes are moved to the side to make it easier to install adapters;
4. sections are assembled into a circuit. Here, tubes with coolant can be connected using soldering or plastic adapters;
5. the system is connected to the distribution from the collector using standard pipes made of metal-plastic, cross-linked polyethylene or polypropylene, after which it is filled with coolant;
6. homemade plinth is attached to the wall with mounting clips at a height of 1 cm from the floor.

The final product is shown in the picture below.

Option No. 2 is a drywall fastening system composed of aluminum profiles.

The assembly technology used in the second option is fairly basic:

1. Make holes at the top and bottom of the profile on the front side for attaching the system to the wall. Step – 500 mm;
2. Copper tubes are laid inside the profile. Fastening to the profile is made with aluminum wire. For this, holes are drilled on the sidewalls of the profile;
3. The profile is attached to the wall.

Sections enter the circuit in the same manner as mentioned in the first version in order to connect them.

Notably, steel profiles are primarily available for GKL fastening. Their low thermal conductivity makes them unsuitable for the heating skirting system.

The profile painting project is finished.

ANOTHER

Beautiful images created by product sellers and manufacturers should never be trusted. They are knowledgeable individuals who can embellish or enthrall details about the product to suit their own agendas.

Official websites of companies that make warm skirting boards are a good example. If you visit there out of curiosity, you will most likely find numerous convincing calculations verifying the heating system’s efficacy. Here’s the result of "sticking" the air flow to the wall—a term that honors a Romanian pilot—as well as the idea of energy transformation and how walls can become sources of heat that sustain life, among other things. Above all, remarkable energy savings ranging from 30% to 400%. Additionally, it is generally stated on one website that five times less electricity is needed to achieve one W of power on their heating device.

People with a rudimentary understanding of the fundamental laws of physics, which are taught in high school, can readily challenge such calculations.

Finally, here’s some advice: read the law of conservation of energy even if you disagree with the author. I promise you, it’s fascinating.

Of course! This is a succinct wrap-up for your "Warm Baseboard" article:

Selecting a warm baseboard for your house will make the winter months much more comfortable. These heating options provide effective, yet gentle, warmth distribution—typically via radiant heat. They are adaptable, looking good in a variety of interior decor styles and room configurations, and offering reliable warmth without the cacophony of forced-air systems.

Take the baseboard’s energy efficiency into consideration when installing it. When heating isn’t needed, choose models with programmable thermostats to control the temperature and save energy. By reducing energy waste, this not only lowers utility costs but also promotes environmental sustainability.

Furthermore, warm baseboard maintenance is not too difficult. To ensure maximum performance and longevity, components should be cleaned on a regular basis and inspected occasionally. By taking preventative measures, you can prolong the life of your heating system and ensure dependable warmth throughout the year.

In summary, adding a warm baseboard to your house has both functional and decorative heating advantages. These systems are energy-efficient, simple to maintain, and offer effective warmth distribution and comfort whether remodeling or building new. Make an informed choice that meets your heating requirements and improves your living area by taking these factors into account.

Video on the topic

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What is a warm baseboard

Installation of warm water baseboard Mr.Tektum

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