How to install a faucet in a metal or polypropylene pipe without welding

Do you want to install a faucet in your house without having to deal with welding being a hassle? This guide will take you step-by-step through the process, regardless of whether you’re working with polypropylene or metal pipes.

If you’re doing a DIY project, installing a faucet without welding can save time and effort. This technique works with polypropylene pipes that are frequently used in plumbing as well as metal pipes like steel or copper. It’s a workable solution that doesn’t call for specialized equipment or a lot of plumbing knowledge.

You can safely connect a faucet to your pipes by using compression fittings or push-fit connectors by following these simple instructions. These techniques are perfect for anyone wishing to replace or upgrade a faucet without the need for welding equipment because they are dependable and guarantee a leak-free connection.

We’ll take you through easy steps to safely and successfully attach faucets to both metal and polypropylene piping systems without the need for welding in our guide, "How to install a faucet in metal or polypropylene pipes without welding." This technique ensures a dependable water supply with the least amount of hassle, making it perfect for do-it-yourselfers and homeowners wishing to upgrade or repair plumbing fixtures without the need for specialized tools.

Working with metal pipes

Utilizing steel water pipes calls for a specific kind of expertise. The diameter and location of the pipe determine which insertion method is best. Pre-cutting the water supply is the simplest way to connect to the pipeline. If this isn’t feasible, though, there are specialized tools that let you perform the procedure under duress.

Threaded connection

The old masters’ preferred technique. Make sure you turn off the system’s water supply before beginning this. Special parts are required to insert into a pipe without the need for welding. Some must be bought in person. You can create others on your own.

The retail chain is where transition couplings, tees, and taps with the necessary diameter are bought. Pipe is used to make the "barrel" and "squeegee." The first is a pipe that is between 80 and 180 mm long. One side of the thread is cut short, but at least five threads are cut. There are twenty long threads on the opposite end. The length of the pipe used to make the barrel ranges from 15 to 50 mm. Both ends of five threads are cut.

The process of manufacturing an adapter:

• A blank of the required length is cut from the pipe.
• The part is clamped in a vice so that there is a convenient approach to one of its ends.
• The outer part of the workpiece is chamfered at an angle of 45 degrees to facilitate the attachment of the tool. A small amount of any lubricant is applied to the treated area.
• The die is carefully baited onto the stripped end. At the same time, make sure that there is no distortion.
• Applying a clamping force, gradually screw the die onto the pipe. When the teeth of the tool grab the thread, its movement will become easier and there will be no need to press the machine to the pipe.
• A specified number of turns is made and the run is performed in the opposite direction to release the die.
• Swarf is removed from the freshly cut thread with a rag and, if necessary, the run is repeated.
• The part is turned over in a vice and threading begins using the described technology on its other end.

The threads at the ends of the cut line must then be cut. And in this situation, you cannot function without help. Using a gas wrench, one should seize the pipe and firmly hold it in place. Pull it simultaneously away from the wall if needed. At this point, the other one uses the die to perform all the manipulations, cutting five turns at both pipeline ends.

The adapter is then finished assembling. In this instance, flax fiber or FUM tape is wound onto all threads after they have been lubricated with a unique paste. One end of a barrel is screwed into the tap or tee. However, there is a cut from the side of the short thread. The coupling’s long thread is first secured with a lock nut until it stops, and then a connecting sleeve.

They proceed to the main line, where all winding manipulations are completed at one of the prepared ends. After that, another coupling is screwed on until it stops. It is screwed into the assembled insert from the barrel’s side. In this instance, you must keep an eye on where the tap or tee is located. so that when the thread’s final turn is tightened, he looks in the correct direction.

They then proceed to the opposite end of the line and encircle it with flax. After leveling the pipe and adapter, take the coupling off of the latter and screw it onto the line until it stops. Next, a lock nut is used to tighten the coupling.

The reason for this is that the winding in this section is simply wound in a thick layer between the nut and the coupling, rather than falling into the thread. Squeezing the fiber firmly with a nut is the only way to seal it. Consequently, there should be a gap of no more than 1 mm, filled with compacted winding, between the coupling and the lock nut following complete tightening with maximum force.

Installation of special clamps

You can even avoid creating threads at the ends of the line by using this method. Without welding, a unique clamp is inserted into a steel pipe. It is composed of two robust metal hollow flanges that are fastened together into a single structure using bolts or studs. Consequently, there are connecting projections with holes on both sides of the halves. Professionals refer to this type of clamp as a saddle or crimp.

The procedure for using a clamp to join two pipes:

• There is no need to chamfer the cuts. All you have to do is get rid of hangnails.
• A clamp is mounted on one of the pipes. In this case, the flange connections are only slightly tightened.
• The ends of the pipes are placed together and a rubber gasket is placed on top so that it completely covers the connection and protrudes beyond the cut line by at least 10 mm in both directions.
• The clamp is pushed onto the gasket and firmly fixed in place with bolts.

At the last step, the saddle connecting bolts need to be tightened uniformly and gently. in order to prevent harming the clamp’s parts. As a result, it is necessary to tighten the nuts in pairs. positioned diagonally across from one another.

A specific clamp is available to facilitate the insertion of a pipeline branch. A coupling for screwing in a flexible line or shut-off valve is located on one of its halves. In order to accomplish this, a hole is bored in the highway at the desired location. The clamp halves are positioned in relation to the coupling. A shut-off valve or a flexible pipe with a unique thread at the end is screwed into the firmly fixed structure. They are already spearheading a new branch from the latter.

Using a coupling connection

There are specific crimp fittings used to extend the pipeline into straight sections. The rings on its compression fittings, also known as collets, are firmly pressed during installation. The ability to connect pipes with varying diameters is a convenient feature of this design. extensively employed to switch from steel to plastic lines.

The following order is how the connection is made:

• Prepare the pipes by cutting them strictly at right angles and remove all burrs.
• A coupling is applied to the joint for marking. Its central part must clearly coincide with the connection line.
• Marks are made on the pipes, focusing on the ends of the coupling.
• The internal cavity of the coupling is filled with sealant.
• The ends of the pipes up to the marks are also treated with the same composition.
• First, the end of the first pipe is deepened into the coupling to the mark. Then, on the other side, the same manipulations are carried out with the other pipe.
• Workpieces are aligned along the axis.

A common coupling for this kind of connection is the Gebo coupling. Clamping and sealing rings are features of the compression fitting design. Furthermore, installing it doesn’t require any specialized tools.

This video explains how to make a cut in a metal heating pipe without using welding:

Insertion into a polypropylene line

Typically, all plastic pipeline installations involve soldering connections using specialized electrical equipment. However, there is another way to create bends from the main highway if such equipment is not available. Specific crimping fittings are used for solderless insertion into polypropylene pipes.

Installation of the pipe

There is a tool available in construction stores that lets you draw a smaller line from the larger main pipe. Also, no specialized equipment is needed. The fittings are rubber-covered sections of the pipe that resemble an extra wall and from which a short pipe protrudes. All that needs to be done is make sure the flange fits the pipeline cross-section correctly.

It is very easy to install. The wide area of the fittings’ interior is sealed with silicone sealant. After that, it is appropriately applied to the main line. Then, two integrated fasteners are used to securely fasten the device to the pipe. To avoid completely squeezing out the sealant, you just need to be cautious not to tighten too much.

Using an electric drill, a hole is drilled through the branch pipe that emerges from the fittings and into the main line. Next, a pipe with the appropriate diameter is inserted into the branch pipe after the inner walls have also been sealed. Additionally, the branch pipe has an integrated clamp at the end that secures the connection.

Adapter (saddle)

There are times when cutting off the water supply to the main line is not an option. In addition, pressure must be applied during the insertion. Let us examine the process of cutting into a polypropylene pipe with a specialized adapter.

The installation procedure is essentially a rerun of the previous one. The adapter’s design is the only thing that differs. It’s a crimp clamp with a coupling with a cut internal thread on one of its halves. Immediately after the installation is complete, a shut-off valve is screwed into it.

A cutter and valve are integrated into certain designs. With the help of this feature, you can cut through water pipes up to 16 bar of pressure. In addition, the structure becomes one piece and has a 50-year service life when sleeve welding is used.

Connection of asbestos cement pipes

According to many, the simplest operation is to tap into a polypropylene pipe. It is another matter entirely to operate a pipeline composed of asbestos-cement pipes. Asbestos fibers and Portland cement are combined four to one during the manufacturing process. The end product is a structure that is both delicate and reasonably strong. As a result, handling such pipes needs to be done very carefully.

The tapping method is identical to that of a steel line. Double-breasted couplings made of asbestos cement and sealed with a rubber ring are used to cut into pipes that can operate at up to 3 bar of pressure. Gibot couplings are employed if the pressure is higher than this threshold.

These unique collapsible fittings are these. They have cast iron bushings and flanges installed. Rubber sealing rings are also included. The latter are primarily responsible for completing the connection. Additionally, the design itself frequently converts to a plastic or steel pipeline.

Strengths of the saddle

A tee is an adapter in structural terms. Pipelines made of steel and plastic each have their own element. Soldering is used to mount the first one into the system. Make use of a threaded connection to install the second.

It is not necessary to weld or thread in order to insert a tee (adapter) into a polypropylene pipe or a metal one. It is sufficient to fasten the saddle firmly in place at the desired location along the pipeline using fasteners. Drilling a hole in the main pipe and leading the outlet from the adapter are the only things left to do.

There are two varieties of the saddle. The first kind of overlay is standard. They are fastened to the pipe with unique clamps. Additionally, it is only applied to plastic water pipes.

The second is constructed like a crimp clamp. Since it works with pipelines made of any material, it is regarded as universal. Furthermore, such an adapter is used on gas and even sewer lines in addition to the water supply system.

Ideal for pipelines operating at no more than 10 atmospheres of pressure. suited for any medium with a temperature of no more than +40 °C. Larger diameter pipes can be installed on if auxiliary elements are used.

Advantages of the saddle:

• The coupling is mounted on the pipe even in the most cramped conditions. For example, in mines or sewers.
• The device allows you not to stop the water supply in the system and carry out tapping under pressure.
• Fairly low price. Moreover, it pays off, practically, after the first launch of the system.

With good reason, the saddle is regarded as a universal coupling. Ultimately, its most basic installation doesn’t need expensive or specialized tools. Additionally, all that is required of the performer is a standard toolkit and rudimentary plumbing knowledge.

In plumbing projects, knowing how to install a faucet in a metal or polypropylene pipe without welding is a useful skill that can save time and effort. The procedure is the same whether you’re dealing with polypropylene or metal pipes.

First, you’ll need a pipe cutter, the faucet itself, the proper fittings (such as compression or push-to-connect fittings), and maybe some Teflon tape or thread sealant. To prevent mishaps, cut off the water supply to the area you’ll be working in before you start.

Then, mark and measure the locations where the pipe needs to be cut to fit the fittings and faucet. To create a precise, clean cut, use a pipe cutter. Deburring the cut edges is essential to guaranteeing a good seal in the future. To stop leaks, use sandpaper or a file to smooth out any uneven edges.

After the pipe is ready, put the fittings together in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. This can entail using wrenches to firmly tighten compression fittings on metal pipes. Push-to-connect fittings, which only require pushing the pipe into the fitting until it clicks into place, are frequently used with polypropylene pipes.

Fit the faucet onto the ready-made pipe end after the fittings are assembled. This step may involve screwing the faucet onto a threaded fitting or securing it with a locking mechanism provided by the fitting, depending on the type of faucet and fittings used. To stop leaks, make sure all connections are tight.

Lastly, turn on the water supply and examine the newly installed faucet and fittings for leaks. Tighten the fittings a little bit more if you find any leaks, and make sure no installation steps were overlooked. You can move forward with confidence knowing your faucet is installed correctly and doesn’t require welding once everything is tight and leak-free.

Video on the topic

Threadless compression/clamp connection GEBO / GEBO

Correct installation of HDPE fitting with ball valve

How to embed a bend without welding into metal. water heater pipe.

NO WELDING! Demountable connection of polypropylene pipes with metal ones

The junction of a steel pipe and a plastic one

Few people know about these tricks with polypropylene pipes; plumbers won’t tell you about it

How to solder a pipe with WATER. Every plumber should know this method (a better idea than the populist)