Linoleum and heated floors – is a union possible, what type of linoleum and heated floors to choose, installation technology

Linoleum flooring and underfloor heating can be a great combination for creating a cozy living space in the house. Your living areas will feel warm and inviting thanks to this combination of robustness and coziness. Is this combination really possible, though? It’s crucial to comprehend how these two components interact and what factors to take into account for a successful setup.

Selecting the appropriate underfloor heating system and linoleum type is essential to making sure they work well together. It’s crucial to choose products that are compatible with heated floors because not all linoleum types are appropriate for this application. In a similar vein, the kind of heating system you choose can affect the longevity and performance of the heating system as well as the linoleum.

Another crucial factor to take into account is proper installation. To guarantee a seamless installation, meticulous attention to detail is necessary when installing linoleum over heated floors. In the long run, it will make all the difference, from setting the proper temperature settings to preparing the subfloor.

This post will discuss how to select the best heating system and flooring for your space and offer a step-by-step installation guide. You can create the ideal balance between coziness and practicality in your house by using the advice in this article.

Topic	Details
Can linoleum be used with heated floors?	Yes, linoleum can be used with heated floors. It"s important to choose the right type and install it correctly to ensure compatibility and performance.
What type of linoleum to choose?	Opt for linoleum that is designed for use with underfloor heating. This usually means selecting a product that is thin and flexible, allowing for better heat transfer.
What type of heated floors to choose?	Electric underfloor heating systems work well with linoleum. Make sure the heating cables or mats are evenly distributed and installed according to the manufacturer’s guidelines.
Installation technology for linoleum with heated floors	First, install the heated floor system as per the manufacturer’s instructions. Then, let it cool down before laying the linoleum. Use a suitable adhesive and ensure the floor is level and clean before installing the linoleum.

Is it possible to lay linoleum on a heated floor?

Flooring made of linoleum is a contentious material. On the one hand, the majority of homeowners consider it to be an outdated, low-quality kind of flooring. This is somewhat accurate. In new construction during the Soviet era, linoleum was used extensively. As a result, the owners of such housing are not concerned about whether linoleum is compatible with a "warm floor" because they lack the funds for a more costly coating and are unsure of where to obtain heating systems.

However, some varieties of linoleum manufactured from different raw materials are now available for purchase. As such, a clear response to the introduction’s question is not possible. You must comprehend the various kinds of materials. After all, based on the prices, it appears to be made of natural materials that react differently at higher temperatures.

One uses for linoleum are:

• natural (marmoleum). It contains natural ingredients such as linseed oil, wax, pine resin, cork oak bark chips, dyes from natural materials. The floor covering has increased fire resistance, wear resistance, and a long service life. The material does not deform when temperature and humidity change, it is safe for humans – it contains no allergens, and no harmful substances are released when heated.

Marmoleum. Uppermost layer: marmoleum. Middle layer: MDF, or sometimes-referred-to as flexible wood-resinous solid wood. Jute fiber makes up the bottom layer, which is coated in resin, linseed oil, and cork crumbs.

1. price. The cheapest models can be bought for 700 rubles./m 2 ;
2. requires careful transportation, especially in winter – fragile;
3. for installation you need a flat surface – a 2 mm bump will definitely come out.

• vinyl. Made from PVC with additives of lime, talc and kaolin – giving strength and elasticity. Pros – affordable price, easy care.

1. does not tolerate both high and low temperatures. In cold weather it loses elasticity, cracks and deforms. The waves and bubbles that appear are not removed;
2. when heated above 27 o C, it releases harmful substances. Many manufacturers limit the heating ceiling to +28 o C;
3. operational life is limited to 10-15 years;
4. smells bad on hot days.

• rubber (relin). Made from crumbs of waste rubber, mainly car tires. Bitumen and sulfur are added to provide strength and elasticity. The material is durable, strong, tolerates severe frosts without losing elasticity, does not deform, is in the average price range. Two minuses – when heated, it deforms, and also begins to emit substances with an unpleasant odor;

• glyphthalic or alkyd. The most expensive linoleum flooring – 1 m 2 costs 2200 rubles. and more. In addition, it is produced only to order. Consists of alkyds obtained from 5 types of oil at once (tung, linseed, cotton, sunflower, hemp). This, by the way, explains the high price. Consists of 3 layers; the top one is a durable glyphthalic varnish, the middle one is an alkyd body, the bottom one is a fabric base. Meets all the requirements of today in terms of performance characteristics. Cons:

1. crumbles at low temperatures, and therefore transportation is not recommended in winter;
2. deforms at a temperature of about +40 o C;

• colloxylin (nitrocellulose). Already from the name it is clear that the basis of the floor covering is nitrocellulose. Add gypsum, red lead and colloxylin. Available without base.

• high plasticity;
• water resistance;
• strength;
• environmental cleanliness;
• durability.

• highly flammable;
• practically does not isolate noise;
• conducts heat well;
• limited set of colors – only three: brown, red-brown and gray.

Based on the aforementioned attributes, two deductions can be made:

1. Linoleum can be laid on a “warm floor”, but only certain types.
2. Only one type of linoleum can be laid on a “warm floor” from water heating – marmoleum. The rest, due to temperature surges in the heating system up to 35-40°C, become deformed or begin to release harmful substances.

Choosing linoleum for laying on a warm floor

Selecting the kind of flooring is the last step after confirming that linoleum can be installed on a "warm floor". Here, you can offer two types of advice: succinct and comprehensive.

For "warm floors," it is suggested to purchase linoleum that has unique markings, such as a snake and three arrows (see photo). The material’s back side is where the icon is applied.

However, there are some nuances that are overlooked in this response. As a result, you must provide specific guidance:

• marmoleum. Can be installed on any heating system: water, cable, infrared;
• vinyl. Does not have special markings. This means the floor covering is incompatible with heated floors. But there are nuances here. Indeed, at temperatures above +27 o C, PVC linoleum first begins to release harmful substances, and then comes in waves and bubbles. If you take a water heating system and an electric cable, then they work in the mode of +25-28 o C. This means that vinyl cannot be laid on such “warm floors.”. But there is also infrared film, which heats the room using a wave method. In this case, the floor covering heats up to +21-23 o C, after which the thermostat turns off the power supply. And this is already compatibility. In this case, you can use linoleum with or without a backing – homogeneous;
• rubber. Strictly not for installation on heating systems located in the floor pie;
• glyphthalic (alkyd). According to its performance characteristics, it is ideally suited for electric “warm floor”: cable and infrared. For water heating, laying is not recommended due to possible temperature surges above 35 o C (electric heating does not have such problems);
• colloxylin (nitrocellulose). Due to its easy flammability, it is not recommended to lay it on an electric heated floor. It holds temperature jumps well. Therefore, the owners, at their own peril and risk, can place it on a “warm floor”. True, there is another problem here – the aesthetics are lame.

Which heated floor to choose for linoleum

The selection of a floor heating system is influenced by multiple elements:

• type of living space;
• type of linoleum.

When building private homes, such as country homes and cottages, water-heated floors are acceptable as long as the flooring is made of natural linoleum. There aren’t any other possible pairings. It is possible to install electric cable flooring under marmoleum and glyphthalic linoleum in private homes and apartments.

In any space with natural, vinyl, or glyphthalic linoleum, infrared film is used as both the primary and supplementary heating source. The decision is definitely in favor of an infrared floor if you base your evaluation of heating systems on their effectiveness and simplicity of installation. The articles "Which warm floor for tiles is better to choose?" and "Which warm floor is better – water or electric?" will show you how to determine this.

Considering the decision made, we will go over the specifics of installing an infrared "warm floor" beneath linoleum in more detail.

Materials and tools

What you’ll need to put together a "warm floor" beneath linoleum is:

• infrared “warm floor” kit, which includes:

1. film with elements emitting infrared rays (sold in different widths: 50, 60, 80 and 100 cm);
2. electrical wires;
3. special clips for fixing the film on the insulation;
4. contacts in the form of clips;
5. bitumen based tape.

• temperature sensor with wires;
• Temperature regulator;
• foil insulation (you can buy a backing with foil or lavsan on one side 3 mm thick);
• electrical tape for insulating wire twists;
• metallized tape;
• knife;
• roulette;
• pliers for crimping contacts;
• pliers for stripping insulation from wiring;
• construction pencil.

Also, the following will be necessary for the preparatory work:

• hammer drill or wall chaser;
• electric drill with crown.

Preparatory work

The preparatory work is divided into multiple separate phases:

1. preparing the base for laying the floor;
2. installation of a thermostat;
3. calculation of system power with subsequent development of a laying scheme;
4. floor insulation.

Preparing the base

The thin film that encloses the carbon strips is sealed. Any irregularity in the floor’s base could cause damage to it. As a result, the preparation of the wooden subfloor or concrete floor receives extra attention. The following order is followed when performing the work:

1. the ceiling is freed from all unnecessary things: remnants of building materials, garbage;
2. the old screed is knocked down with a hammer drill;
3. the stove is being repaired. Particular attention is paid to cracks (microcracks) and joints. They must be sealed with repair mortar.

• apply 2 layers of primer;
• the surface is leveled with a small screed using a self-leveling floor or covered with plywood (OSB).

Additionally, the black wooden floor is fixed, with gaps filled, rotten boards replaced, and creaks removed. You can view instructions on how to fill the screed with self-leveling mixtures and carry out preparatory work here.

Installation of a thermostat

The installation of the thermostat and the connection of electricity mark the beginning of the infrared warm floor beneath the linoleum. To do this, first the device’s location is ascertained. Two guidelines apply:

• The power regulator should be as close as possible to the heating zone;
• distance from the floor of at least 30 cm and not more than 1.5 m. It all depends on the presence of small children and pets – the targeting must be outside the reach. There are no recommendations in SNiP on this subject. Most manufacturers indicate a height of 90 cm. Experience shows that in the absence of external factors, it is best to install at a height of 30 cm.

Using an electric drill with a crown, a hammer drill is used to cut out the thermostat installation socket.

It is possible to run the supply wires along the wall and cover them with a plastic box. Electrical wiring looks better when hidden within the wall. To accomplish this, cut two parallel lines at a distance of 20 mm and a depth of 2 cm using a grinder or wall chaser. The channel is removed by using a hammer drill or chisel and hammer. The prepared channel is used to lay the wires. They are plastering the wall.

The process of applying voltage to the infrared film is the same. The thermostat has a 20×20 mm groove punched out of it.

Power calculation

Compared to cable heating, a film "warm floor" has a different power value. The primary parameters in this case are:

• the ratio of the area of ​​the film to the total area of ​​the room;
• Type of heating: main or additional.

It is not done to lay film beneath furniture. Why warm her ass first? Second, the couch, cabinet, and table start to distort due to overheating. Thirdly, there is a problem with the film itself. Heat is transferred into the floor pie, which causes the plastic to melt and burn the carbon strips. As a result, a room layout that takes into account the furniture’s placement is drawn up, paying attention to scale.

Subsequently, the dimensions of every film strip are computed. Here are the prerequisites:

• From the wall of the IR heater is located at a distance of 250-300 mm;
• There should be 50 mm between the stripes.

When creating a diagram, you must adhere to the installation guidelines and consider the following requirements:

• When calculating the length of the strip, you need to take into account how much film can be cut off: 200 or 250 mm. Therefore, it is difficult to meet the requirements for distance from the wall. In this case, the distance is increased;
• the temperature sensor is located inside the strip, but with the condition that the standard wiring is enough to reach the temperature sensor. No twists. They distort the signal;
• heating elements need to be placed along the room – fewer connection points.

The area of the film and its total area are calculated after the plan for its layout and thermostat connection has been completed. Calculations are used to determine the IR film’s power. Here, there are two methods. Auxiliary or main heating is one factor that some experts advise considering. Some would rather have a maximum power system installed. Energy use is unaffected by this strategy. The amount consumed is roughly the same. Only when buying a kit will you notice the difference—a more potent kit will cost more.

The power calculations for various rooms for continuous heating are displayed in Table 1. The end results should be lowered by 30–35% for more heating. Furthermore, it is important to remember that power drops with increasing film area and vice versa. The power fluctuates by roughly 0.1 kW for every 2% of the area, which is the approximate ratio.

Note: bring the plan with you and show it to your sales manager if you are unable to determine the heating system’s power on your own. The majority of stores have software for these kinds of calculations.

Table 1 shows the power calculation for the "warm floor" film.

Floor	Room	Ratio of IR film area to room area, %	Maximum power, in kW
I	Living room + dining room	60	3.5
	Hall + kitchen	70	3.2
	Guestbook	64	1.6
II	Bedroom 1	62	1.8
	Bedroom 2	66	1.6
	Bedroom 3	60	1.9
	Hall + bathroom	60	1.6
	Toilet	64	1.8

Floor insulation

The floor’s base is insulated to keep heat from escaping downstairs, to nearby buildings, or to the basement.

Note: Waterproofing beneath linoleum should only be done if there’s a chance that moisture from the basement will seep into the insulation.

You’ll need foil insulation that is roughly 3 mm thick for this. Foil is not necessary when using a cork backing. The outcome is the same. Place the foil-side up insulation on concrete or a subfloor. Metallic tape is used to seal the joints. Next, a temperature sensor recess is carved out.

Technology for laying film heated floors

Standard technology is used for the installation of infrared heated floors under linoleum, including installation, network connection, and thermostat-film connection. Here is a detailed description of the instructions.

We offer the installation technology for those who would prefer to handle the task themselves.

Installation

The following is the step-by-step algorithm for carrying out installation work:

• In accordance with the length of the room, the film is cut to size according to the designated strips. You need to cut very carefully and carefully so as not to damage the conductive copper strip or the IR-emitting carbon strip;

• free copper contacts not connected to the wiring are sealed with bitumen tape (can be found in the kit), which should cover them. To do this, a cut piece of tape is used to cover the film on both sides and squeeze it tightly;

• the film is laid on the insulation according to the previously developed scheme, after which it is attached to the foil with tape. It is necessary to lay the copper strip down;
• the terminal-clip is connected. To do this, one petal of the terminal is inserted between the layers of the film on the copper strip and crimped with pliers;

• the ends of the supply wires are stripped of insulation with special pliers, after which they are connected to the terminal. The clamp is made with pliers;

• bare areas are isolated with two strips of bitumen tape – applied on both sides and tightly compressed. To ensure complete sealing of the insulation, air bubbles remaining between the tape are removed;

Be aware that using other materials—such as electrical tape—to insulate connections is prohibited due to their short service lives. Bitumen softens and coats the contacts with the highest degree of tightness when heated.

• a temperature sensor is attached to the film with tape on the back side. You can see how to do this correctly in the diagram above. In this case, the sensor itself should fall into the previously cut recess. If this does not happen, the film can be moved 1-2 cm.

• under the standard wiring of the sensor, a cut is made in the insulation (substrate), where the wires are hidden;
• the film is reattached to the foil;
• Small recesses are cut out for the terminals and lead wires – they should not be higher than the film;
• hidden terminals and wires are taped with metallized tape.

Electrical connection

Infrared film should never be connected to an outlet. Thus, a thermostat is used to supply voltage to the carbon strips. It needs to be powered by a semi-automatic device, also referred to as an RCD (residual current device). The thermostat and RCD wires need to be made of solid material. Avoid twists, extensions, etc. as this could lead to poor contact and overheating.

Grounding is necessary, t.To. The voltage jumps to the foil right away when the film breaks. And there are a lot of unpleasant repercussions from this. The diagram below displays the connection diagram.

• red wire – positive;
• blue – minus;
• green – earth.

Connecting the thermostat

A thermostat is used to control the room’s temperature. As a result, in addition to the wires powering the infrared film, it is also connected to the temperature sensor’s standard wiring, which is fixed and distorts the thermometer’s data. Manufacturer to manufacturer differences may exist in the order and connection diagram. As a result, readers are advised to consult the manufacturer’s instructions, which are consistently packaged with the thermostat.

When the wires do not overlap, the film can be connected on both sides as well as on the side where they cross. The second method has the undeniable advantage of completely eliminating heating of the insulation at the intersection, which leads to wire short circuits. Minus: Additional power wire is required.

Recommendations for laying linoleum

No, laminate is not linoleum. It cannot be directly filmed. require a level, sturdy base. In order to accomplish this, you must cover the film with a flooring composed of plywood, OSB, fiberboard, or flat slate. It is not possible to secure it to the floor’s base with a film because there is a significant risk of snagging on live strips. They are covered in linoleum. The technology is basic:

Be aware that you need to lay a waterproofing polyethylene film underneath any flooring that has seams. It is not required to waterproof a single piece.

• a roll of linoleum for heated floors is brought into the room and rolled out. It is cut to length and width with a margin of 10 cm (it has the unusual property of increasing in size in the cold);
• when rolled out, leave for 2-3 days – it should level out. You can speed up the process by turning on the “warm floor”;
• the floor covering is laid for further use. Experts recommend attaching it to the flooring with glue or double-sided tape. According to the editors of the StroyGuru website, the glue is more reliable – the flooring adheres to the flooring more tightly and does not heat up as much. For a felt base, “Gumilax” is suitable, for material without a backing – “Bustilat”;

• when laying two strips, the seam at the bottom is glued with tape so that there is a tight fit, and then everything is glued. The glue is spread on both the flooring and the coating;
• along the perimeter the linoleum is secured with skirting boards.

For many homes, linoleum and heated floors can be a sensible and cozy combination. It’s important to choose linoleum that can withstand heat when using underfloor heating. To make sure your linoleum works well and lasts a long time, look for flooring that is specially labeled as suitable for heated floors.

Water-based systems are frequently chosen for heated floors because of their uniform heat distribution. On the other hand, properly installed electric systems can also function well. Always adhere to the manufacturer’s instructions to guarantee correct installation and steer clear of any possible problems.

The key to a successful installation is preparation. Before applying the linoleum, make sure the floor is clean and level. To avoid problems later on, use an adhesive that is appropriate for the linoleum and the heating system.

In summary, pay close attention to the type of linoleum you choose and the installation methods you use when combining heated floors with linoleum. You can achieve a durable and comfortable flooring solution with the aid of this method.

One workable way to create a cozy and warm space is to combine heated floors with linoleum. Selecting the appropriate kind of flooring that complements underfloor heating systems and utilizing appropriate installation methods are crucial. This post will discuss how to choose heating systems and linoleum that work well together, as well as offer a clear installation checklist so you can take advantage of the advantages of warmth and longevity in your house.

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