What is the best material to make a bath floor from??

Selecting the appropriate material for your bathroom floor is essential for both practicality and style. Durability and water resistance are important considerations because the bathroom floor is constantly exposed to moisture, humidity, and heavy foot traffic. Here, we look at a few of the top materials for your bathroom floor.

Because ceramic tile is water- and wear-resistant, it is a popular option for bathroom floors. With the range of styles, colors, and patterns available, you can design the bathroom of your dreams. Ceramic tiles are perfect for moist areas like bathrooms because they are simple to maintain and clean. In addition, they are reasonably priced when compared to certain other materials.

Natural stone for bathroom floors, like marble or slate, has an opulent and elegant appearance. When sealed properly, these materials are incredibly resilient and can tolerate moisture well. Any bathroom area is made more aesthetically pleasing by the timeless elegance that natural stone brings. On the other hand, it might cost more and need more upkeep than ceramic tiles.

Another sensible option for bathroom flooring is vinyl, particularly for those on a tight budget or seeking an easy-to-install solution. There are many different styles of vinyl available, including imitations of stone and wood. Because of its stain and water resistance, it is appropriate for bathrooms where spills and moisture are frequent occurrences. Additionally plush underfoot, vinyl floors offer some cushioning.

And last, if you like the warm, natural appearance of hardwood but are worried about traditional wood’s moisture sensitivity, think about engineered wood. Because of the layers that are used in its construction, engineered wood is less likely to shrink or warp in humid environments. It provides the elegance of hardwood floors with enhanced water resistance, making it a good choice for bathroom floors where a warm, inviting ambiance is preferred.

Materials	Advantages
Ceramic Tile	Durable, water-resistant, easy to clean
Vinyl	Affordable, comfortable underfoot, water-resistant
Natural Stone	Luxurious look, durable, adds value to home
Porcelain	Harder and denser than ceramic, scratch-resistant, low maintenance

Requirements for the floor in the bathhouse

You have to seriously consider what kind of material could be used for the bathhouse floor when you consider the harsh operating conditions of the floors in the steam room and laundry. They will assist you in comprehending the problem and the specifications for floor coverings in this kind of structure (which completely encompasses the sauna).

Security. It needs to be unwavering. First of all, whether the surface is wet or dry, it shouldn’t be slick. Second, when heated, there are no toxic emissions. Third, if you unintentionally fall, avoid inflicting severe injuries.

Quickly empty the water. The floor’s surface shouldn’t even slightly have a puddle on it. Water needs to be removed from the floor covering in a matter of seconds, even in a laundry room where it flows in a stream.

Avoid swelling when exposed to water. Because bath procedures take place in a humid environment, the floor material should eventually dry out and regain its original dimensions.

Dry up fast. When the drying process is slowed down, mildew and mold start to grow. Antiseptics are also ineffective.

Avoid causing discomfort. It’s still enjoyable to walk on a chilly floor after using a steam room. Drafts that form in the floor area can also cause unpleasant sensations.

Based on the floor requirements mentioned above, we can enumerate the kinds of flooring that are not appropriate for use in restrooms.

What types of flooring are NOT suitable for a bathhouse?

The bathhouse floor affects both the building’s longevity and how comfortable it is to wash on. As a result, using some flooring materials is not recommended since they pose a health risk. The centuries-old practice of running saunas and baths attests to this: lower construction costs typically translate into noticeably higher treatment costs.

Carpeting. Flooring made of linoleum is suitable for homes.

• quickly swells from moisture – the water is absorbed by the substrate, most often felt;
• practically does not dry – it is difficult to organize ventilation. As a result, a putrid smell will accompany the entire time spent in the bathhouse;
• when the temperature increases, phenol, toluene, vinyl chloride, etc. begin to be released.d. – substances harmful to health (exception – marmolium);
• ignites quickly when in direct contact with flame.

Cover with laminate. It is common knowledge that laminate made of wood fibers, or fiberboard, reacts negatively to moisture. Even minor leaks can cause it to swell and deform. In the restroom, there is a flood. Additionally, many laminate types actively release substances that are harmful to human health when the temperature rises above 28 o C. The steam room has a significantly higher temperature. The use of laminated panels in a bathhouse is totally precluded by these two drawbacks.

Wood flooring. Parquet flooring is available in bathrooms.

It will be both elegant and cozy. It won’t rot for two to three years. Not everyone can afford the price. Furthermore, the cost of installation is high. Varnish can be used to shield the floor covering from moisture. However, two issues appear simultaneously:

1. when heated, the varnish begins to release harmful substances;
2. When wet, such a floor becomes very slippery. It is not customary to take a bath while skating.

Hardwood floor. The parquet board’s design, which consists of three pieces glued together with PVA, prevents the wood from drying fully. As a result, in a humid environment, this kind of floor covering slowly but steadily swells. When allowed to dry, the wood splits and takes on a deformed appearance, resulting in the appearance of "humps."

Tile. During abrupt temperature changes, traditional ceramic floor tiles (tiles) are prone to breaking and pealing from the screed because the glue cannot withstand the deformation of ceramics when heated quickly. Mold grows actively in grout and seams in a humid environment. The most uncomfortable aspect, though, is that most glazed tiles have a slick surface when they’re wet. In addition, the coating itself is traumatizing; a fall onto it can result in numerous serious injuries.

Types of materials for bath floors

There are just three material options available to consumers due to the harsh operating conditions of bathhouse floors:

• tree;
• concrete;
• porcelain stoneware.

Tree

There are advantages to wood floors that exceed their drawbacks.

• the ability to create a flat surface with a slope for water drainage;
• simple processing technology: logs and boards are cut to size without difficulty;
• the material is aesthetically attractive – creates a special atmosphere of comfort and coziness;
• high strength – withstands all types of mechanical loads occurring in the steam room, washing room and relaxation area;
• environmentally friendly – are not an allergen, do not release toxic substances into the air when heated or burned;
• have a tactilely pleasant surface;
• the price is affordable for the majority of consumers.

• burn well – you need a fire extinguishing system in the form of nozzles;
• are susceptible to rotting, and therefore the service life is 5-10 years. Exception: removable floors. Their operational period can exceed 10 years;
• absorb moisture well – requires active ventilation. Otherwise, the boards will become deformed during drying.

Concrete

Steam bath enthusiasts are not particularly fond of concrete floors. They still get together, though. So let’s give them our full attention as well.

• more durable compared to wood;
• not subject to rotting processes;
• installation of a “warm floor” is allowed, but not water (the yaw is high, which will break the pipes in winter due to frost), but electric or infrared;
• easy care;
• does not burn – no protection required near the wood stove;
• fewer problems with water drainage.

• concrete screeds (floors) are not stable, which can lead to cracking due to sudden temperature changes. In practice, it has been observed more than once that even with good reinforcement, a network of microcracks appears on the monolith. The reason is sudden temperature changes. Do not forget that when heated, concrete expands, and we are not talking about millimeters, but centimeters, and when cooled it contracts. The problem can be solved by ironing the surface;
• dry slowly, which is harmful for wood used for finishing walls and ceilings, as well as for making shelves;
• cold and rough – walking on it is unpleasant;
• hard – no microvibration. Anyone who has walked barefoot on wooden floors and ceramics will understand.

It is important to give the price careful thought. Wood was significantly less expensive only a few years ago (they gave it a plus). As of this writing, however, the cost of a concrete floor is slightly lower. What comes next is unknown to experts. As a result, financial estimates based on material costs at the time of construction must be made before beginning floor installation.

Porcelain tiles

Because of its characteristics, tile is not included in the bathroom. Porcelain tiles satisfy every requirement.

• long service life – for gres tiles it is unlimited by specific numbers;
• you can install a “warm floor” system;
• can be used in extreme conditions: temperature fluctuations and high humidity;
• environmental cleanliness – among the components of the composition there are only natural substances that are not allergens;
• dries quickly;
• easy care;
• wide choice of texture, pattern and color;
• high level of frost resistance;
• does not burn.

• Difficult pruning – you need a special tool;
• some species are slippery when wet. Therefore, you need to be especially careful when choosing;
• significant financial costs for the device (screed + glue + porcelain stoneware);
• the seams need to be cleaned periodically – mold may appear.
• unpleasant tactile sensations – the finishing material is very cold when touched.

The first indication of the best material for a bathroom floor comes from the review of options.

Recommendations for selection

Many steam and broom enthusiasts make porcelain stoneware floors instead of bothering to make any kind of flooring in their baths. Since their location has nothing to do with the kind of baths (wooden, brick, frame, concrete), it is worth examining. However, some requirements are already set by the region. It is important to remember that not much is actually done in practice.

Larger rooms are better suited for porcelain stoneware flooring. However, it is advisable to provide a heating system for comfort and convenience. Under the tiles, it may be infrared or electric.

You can use different materials for small and medium-sized rooms. However, the author believes that a wooden covering is the best option. An opinion is only subjective and is derived from experience.

Tile and concrete work well in shower rooms and public restrooms. They seem out of place in a private spa, unless, of course, we’re talking about pricey steam rooms the size of decent apartments. For someone who loves bathhouses, a steam room is a sacred space with ages-old customs. Thus, true lovers of brooms laid down the tree in the steam room. This is due to a number of factors.

1. There are no flooring materials that compare with wood in terms of warmth and tactile sensations.
2. Wooden floors have a unique therapeutic effect on humans, creating an indescribable atmosphere characteristic of real Russian baths.

Is all of this worth sacrificing in order to ensure that porcelain stoneware floors last a long time? The author claims that the response is clear-cut. How do you feel? Wooden panels atop porcelain stoneware floors appear to be a compromise. The popularity of this flooring choice is rising. However, the tiles in the locker room or rest area will be where they belong. You can lay regular tiles here, by the way.

Bathroom floor installation technology

Every type of material used to install a floor in a bathroom has multiple technologies of its own.

Wooden

Russian baths have a centuries-old custom of having wooden floors. They are affordable, efficient, and simple to install. Our forefathers made them leaky, or torrential, as it’s become fashionable to say in the twenty-first century. The floors also started to be made solid, which brought in new technology along with the name change.

Because the floorboards in a leaky floor are spaced apart, water can escape through the gaps and into the ground or drainage pit almost instantly.

A solid floor is one in which the planks are nailed together as firmly as possible or assembled using a tongue-and-groove method. They have a drain hole to let water out and a small slope.

Various technologies are used to install them, but the results are not always satisfactory. Solid flooring proponents are particularly creative; they provide roughly twenty different methods for carrying out the task. However, the great majority of them are inoperable because they improperly drain water. An awareness of the errors will emerge in five years, when the joists and boards start to actively rot. There will be two or three better proposals left.

We present an algorithm for one of the technical solutions used to install a solid floor. The site’s editors do not, however, warrant that it is the greatest. Once more, time will tell.

• A hole is dug in the middle of the bathhouse.
• A trench is dug from it towards the catchment area with a slope of 5 cm per meter. The depth must exceed the freezing point of the soil by the diameter of the pipes. This type of work is best done before building the foundation. Otherwise you"ll have to dig under it. A plastic sewer pipe is laid along the bottom of the trench.

Important: Despite ventilation and waterproofing, water cannot be filtered into the soil beneath a solid flooring because it will quickly cause the wood to rot.

• From the wall, where it is planned to drain water from the inclined plane of the floor (for some reason, there is often a drain hole in the middle of the floor, which is a gross mistake – after bath procedures you will have to use a rag for a long time to remove and collect the water), a slope is made towards the pit. The easiest way to do it is in the form of a floor screed followed by adding mortar to obtain a slope. The pit is concreted anyway.
• The logs are being laid. The simplest solution is to fix them on the foundation plinth. A little more difficult – right on the wall. Can be used on brick or concrete posts. Don"t forget about the slope for water flow. It should run parallel to the boards, not across. Therefore, each subsequent beam should be slightly lower than the previous one.

• The floor is being laid. It can be double or single. In the first case, cranial bars are attached to the joists, and a subfloor made of unedged material or substandard edged boards is mounted on them. There are plenty of options to continue working here. Someone is lining the subfloor along with the joists with roofing felt. Insulation is placed on it. Waterproofing material again and only then the finishing tongue and groove board is attached. Some owners do without waterproofing and insulation.

The site’s editors believe that double floors with insulation should only be built in regions that experience extremely severe frosts. The bottom boards in central Russia will rot quickly; however, high subterranean humidity, insulation, and waterproofing will help. It will still be necessary to redo the floor. The process of the finishing board rotting is accelerated when water is collected into a sewer pipe directly from the floor surface, lowering the humidity beneath the rough flooring. This is because there is still water on the surface.

• The boards are fastened with self-tapping screws. Simple nails begin to come out after a few years. Rough hardware makes it extremely difficult to dismantle the board. It still has to be done. Self-tapping screws are wrapped at an angle of 45 o into the groove. The caps are recessed so that the spike fits freely. Tight fitting of boards can be done in several ways. The simplest ones are using a clamp (its use is shown in the photo) or a beam. One of the stops is attached to the joist. Then, using wedges, the board is tightly tapped to the already fixed floorboard. After this, the operation is repeated with the next board.

The work algorithm is nearly the same for pouring floors installations. There are two exclusions: first, a hole is not necessary, and second, there is a space between the boards where they are fastened. Should the choice be made to empty the bathhouse’s water directly into the ground beneath it, the entire floor should be lowered by 50 centimeters. Next, add roughly 20 cm of sand. After giving it a good shake, add some water and tamp it down once more.

Add crushed stone on top of the sand. Logs were typically placed directly on crushed stone in village bathhouses. Practically speaking, this is the best option in terms of cost and efficiency. They can be changed in a few hours. There aren’t many financial investments. They are currently attempting to install it on pillars or a foundation. If you split the boards into panels and place them on logs, they will last a lot longer. After bathing, you can arrange the boards vertically, allowing them to dry overnight.

Both approaches seem sound at first glance, each in their own unique way. The first questions, though, are raised here: Did our forefathers really not consider creating solid floors? Or was there something about them that birch broom and steam enthusiasts found objectionable? Let’s make an effort to comprehend the current circumstance. In order to achieve this, we will compare two methods of building wooden floors in order to determine which is ideal for a bathroom.

Leaking or not – which is better?

Let me stray a little before we begin the comparison. The specifications for a steam room that have evolved over centuries must be followed when creating one. It needs to be compact in order for the steam to be tart and thick. Each person should have a maximum of 6 m2 and a height of 200–220 cm. The rapidly affluent representatives of the CIS countries are disregarding tradition and building mansions instead of bathhouses (curious site visitors can peruse hundreds of photos online) with steam rooms measuring 20–30 m2, ceilings reaching up to 3–4 m, and sinks even larger.

What can we say about the recreation area in this situation? She might have the size of a tennis court. There are only two types of flooring that can be installed in these kinds of buildings: porcelain stoneware or solid wood. For one simple reason, a torrential one will not work—the steam will dissipate quickly even in the summer, let alone during the winter. Thus, we shall select a traditional Russian bathhouse.

1. Price. In terms of costs for logs, boards, hardware and waterproofing, solid floors are much more expensive. In addition, draining water from a pouring floor is simpler, and therefore cheaper.
2. Durability. Solid floors lose, although the Internet says the opposite. Supporters do not take into account the drying speed of the boards. A solid floor below has high humidity, and it is technically difficult to organize good underground ventilation. Impregnation with waterproofing materials helps little – due to high temperatures, the wood expands greatly, tearing the monolithic film of the waterproofing material. After all, this is not a floor in a living room, where the temperature difference is insignificant. The advantage of pouring floors is the ability to make them removable: I washed myself, lifted the flooring and placed it vertically. This increases the drying speed significantly – overnight is enough if the bath is well heated.
3. Complexity of technology. Assembling a solid floor correctly is much more difficult than knocking down flooring from boards with technological gaps between them. In addition, you need to accurately calculate the slope and not create subsidence areas where water can accumulate in a thin film. Protection of the joints between the boards is also required. Made from natural materials (oils and waxes), the protection does not last very long. Special deep penetration varnishes withstand much longer, but can release harmful substances when heated.
4. Operating resource lag. No matter how you isolate the log beam from moisture, it begins to rot over time. A striking example is wooden sleepers on the railway. They are impregnated with special compounds in autoclaves using the “vacuum-pressure-vacuum” method at high temperatures. Even after such treatment, the operational life is from 7 years.

There’s a rotten log in the bathhouse; parts of the floor have collapsed. Sagging floor – moisture not removed. A rotten floor is the water that remains after bathing procedures.

The final defense offered by proponents of solid coating was ignored: in the winter, cold air will seep through the gaps. Yes, it will. But this won’t be noticeable in a tiny, intensely heated steam room. regarding the vast regions previously mentioned.

In summary, a leaky floor is preferable to a solid one. Our forefathers were correct.

concrete floor

Because each layer of screed needs to gain strength, installing a concrete floor in a bathroom will be more costly, complex, and time-consuming (it will take one and a half to two months).

Installing a drainage device that directs the sewage pipes outside the building is the first step.

The soil is compacted and leveled in the second step. It is covered with a layer of small- and medium-sized crushed stone. It’s backed up once more. Better still, use a vibrating plate. Until a foot prints on the crushed stone, compaction work is still being done.

Pouring the upper layer of the concrete floor is the third step. Special metal profiles are fastened to the top of the lower layer of concrete, acting as reinforcement and causing the necessary slope of 3–4 o to the drain pipe. Over them, the solution is poured. A reinforcing mesh is positioned beneath the screed’s top layer if there are no profiles.

The screed is ironed in the fourth step.

Important: it is preferable to use the semi-dry method of pouring the screed rather than the wet one. Because of this, it is not necessary to pour two layers of concrete; instead, the slope can be created manually while working by utilizing beacons. This page displays the entire technological process.

The suggested choice is the most typical. However, shaping it into a funnel-shaped slope is challenging. It is preferable to level the floor and use a special box to collect water in a funnel next to the wall. It can be placed behind the benches in the washroom and under the shelf in the steam room so as not to draw attention to itself.

Placing a funnel with porcelain tiles is challenging because of the numerous undercuts and the need for specialized tools to cut the material; a regular tile cutter is insufficient for porcelain tiles. It hurts to walk on a concrete floor. For this reason, wooden shields are most frequently used to cover it.

Porcelain stoneware

Installing a porcelain stoneware floor presents an intriguing option for the bathhouse owner, as it provides an almost endless floor.

1. water drainage system is installed. The best option is near the wall, along the box into the pipe;
2. the rough screed is poured. It can be level. The required slope of the floor can be given with tile adhesive. But it’s still better to do this with cement mortar on the screed;
3. tiles are being laid.

If there is no underfloor heating, such a floor is extremely chilly. There are several solutions to this issue. One is to place mats or wooden boards on top. As a last resort, you can use hot water from the heater stove’s vat—spray the tile multiple times with boiling water.

The best material for a bathroom floor is determined by a number of factors, including maintenance, comfort, and durability. Although they are enduring and have an opulent appearance, materials like natural stone and porcelain tile can be chilly and need constant upkeep. Although they are less expensive than tile or stone, vinyl and laminate flooring are still warm and require little upkeep. Wood can be charming and warm, but it needs to be sealed carefully to avoid water damage. Finding the ideal material for your bathroom floor ultimately comes down to weighing these considerations against your preferences and financial constraints.

Tips for arranging floors

Different bathhouse rooms have different uses and ways of working. This enables proprietors to try out various flooring materials.

Within the changing area. The humidity and temperature in the changing room remain constant. Thus, practically anything can be used here. What matters most is that it is resistant to wintertime frost. If you want to use this room for something "cheap but cheerful" after the steam room, you can use a board or linoleum.

Within the shower. It’s best to stand on a mat spread out on the tiles beneath the tap. Installing a wooden floor is made more difficult by the small shower area, and other options—aside from porcelain stoneware—don’t work well for various reasons. Timber appears more natural in a shower room that is designed to resemble a "royal mansion."

Within the steam chamber. Reviews from true connoisseurs state that the best floors for a steam bath are not even mentioned when talking about steam. Wooden and singular. However, a compromise solution such as porcelain stoneware with a wooden panel on top is also feasible. The middle ground is always a compromise, though. The bathhouse’s owner will decide what to do.

In the restroom. Warm and calming flooring is necessary for the recreation area, such as wood, parquet, or parquet boards. If budget permits, pricey linoleum is also an option. Tiles can also be laid. In this instance, a carpet is typically found on top in restrooms.

Selecting the ideal flooring material for a bathroom is essential for its longevity and comfort. Every material choice has a unique set of benefits and things to think about.

Tiles made of porcelain or ceramic are preferred because they are long-lasting and resistant to water. Their diverse range of colors and patterns allows for greater design flexibility. To stop water damage over time, installation can be labor-intensive and requires proper sealing.

Natural stone, such as granite or marble, gives a bathroom floor an opulent feel. When sealed properly, it can withstand moisture and is extremely durable. However, it is typically more costly and might need ongoing upkeep to maintain its appearance.

Vinyl flooring is a sensible and affordable choice for bathrooms. It comes in a variety of styles, is water-resistant, and is comfortable underfoot. But vinyl might not be as elegant as ceramic or natural stone tiles, and it might be more prone to scratches.

For bathrooms, epoxy flooring offers a seamless, water-resistant surface. It is simple to clean because of its strong stain and chemical resistance. However, to achieve a smooth finish, it can be difficult to install and may need professional application.

The ideal material for your bathroom floor ultimately comes down to your maintenance skills, financial constraints, and aesthetic preferences. Think about how long-lasting, how simple to maintain, and how you want your bathroom to look and feel overall. By carefully considering these aspects, you can select a bathroom floor material that improves the aesthetics and usability of your area.

Video on the topic

REPLACEMENT OF THE BATH OVEN WITH A STRONGER THAN WAS AND UNPLANNED REPLACEMENT OF THE FLOOR IN THE BATH

What floors to make in the bathhouse?Concrete or wood?

So that the floor in the bathhouse does not rot – part 2. Find out how to make it simple and durable

Floor in the bathhouse after 2 years

What floor to make in the bathhouse?

How to make a warm floor in a bath / Warm floor without electricity