Selecting the ideal underfloor heating system for tiles can greatly improve your home’s efficiency and comfort. Underfloor heating warms the floor directly, distributing heat more evenly throughout the space than traditional radiators, which primarily heat the air.
Electric and water-based underfloor heating systems are the two primary varieties that work well with tiles. Installing heating cables or mats beneath the floor to directly warm the tiles above is known as electric underfloor heating. Because it’s less expensive and easier to install than water-based systems, it’s a popular option for single-room applications or renovations.
Conversely, a system of pipes under the floor that are filled with hot water is used for water-based underfloor heating, commonly referred to as hydronic heating. Due to its complexity, this kind of system is usually more expensive up front and requires professional installation; however, over time, it may prove to be more energy-efficient, particularly for larger spaces or whole-house heating.
Think about things like your budget, the size of the area that needs to be heated, and your long-term heating preferences when choosing which system is best for your tiles. Water-based systems might offer greater overall heating performance and energy efficiency, but electric systems can be quickly installed and offer individual room control.
- Types of warm floors for tiles, their strengths and weaknesses
- Factors influencing the choice of heated floors
- Water heated floor
- Cable electric floor
- Heating mats
- Infrared film
- Infrared rods
- Electro-water warm floor
- What is better to choose
- The best manufacturers and models of heated floors for tiles
- Basic principles of installing heated floors under tiles
- Required materials and tools
- Preparatory work
- Installation instructions for electric heated floors
- Video on the topic
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- Which heated floor is better? / Comparison of ALL WARM FLOORS
- Porcelain tiles for heated floors! Tiles for BEGINNERS !!!
- REPAIRING AN APARTMENT WITH YOUR HANDS. COMPARISON OF WARM FLOORS #097
- How to lay electric heated floors under tiles in a frame house
Types of warm floors for tiles, their strengths and weaknesses
In theory, you can use any heating system that is sold as building supplies to heat a tiled floor:
- water;
- electrical, including: resistive (represented by heating cables and mats); infrared (film and rods);
- combined – electric-water.
The first system you find, though, isn’t appropriate for every space. Here, it is important to consider a number of variables that affect the choice of heating system, in addition to the benefits and drawbacks of the floor heating systems on the list.
Think about things like compatibility with your home’s heating system, ease of installation, and efficiency when choosing the best underfloor heating system for tiles. Water-based systems can be more energy-efficient for larger areas and work well with pre-existing heating systems, but electric systems provide rapid warmth and are simpler to install in smaller spaces. To select the best system for you, consider your needs, your budget, the size of the room, and your long-term energy expenses.
Factors influencing the choice of heated floors
The selection of a heating system for tile floors is contingent upon several factors:
- functional purpose of underfloor heating;
- thickness of cement screed;
- type of heated room;
- costs for the purchase of equipment and operation (it is assumed that installation will be carried out in-house).
Practical intent. The type of heating—main or additional—determines the type and power of heated floor. For instance, calculations (found in the material "Installation of infrared heated floors under laminate") reveal that even the most energy-efficient infrared heated floors are out of reach for the great majority of people when it comes to continuously heating a living space. Water heated floors have no substitutes.
However, if you want to use a heated floor as a backup heating source, you’ll need to install an electric floor.
Fear. According to SNiP, the floors in bathrooms should be marginally lower than the main floor, so the thickness of the screed is crucial in apartments with low ceilings. Because of this, installing a water-heated floor in the bathroom is not recommended because it will undoubtedly rise in comparison to the hallway and other rooms.
Kind of room. The choice of heated floors depends on the type of room in two ways.
1. Based on calculations, water heated floors can efficiently heat large spaces. Installing electric heated tiles is preferable in small spaces.
2. It is illegal in the Russian Federation to install water-heated floors in apartment buildings. The following are the causes:
- connecting a water floor to central heating disrupts the temperature balance in the entrance apartments;
- a thicker screed together with porcelain tiles increase the load on the floor, which is not designed for such operating conditions;
- difficulties arise in taking into account the consumed thermal energy;
- in the case of a bathroom, the requirement of regulatory documents for a lower floor is violated.
Operating expenses. Money is always needed for comfort, but not at the expense of quality of life. As a result, it’s important to weigh the cost of the equipment and its operation against the family’s income when selecting the type of tile floor heating. It’s important to keep in mind that inexpensive equipment isn’t always economical. Spending a large sum of money up front but saving later is sometimes preferable.
We will compare all heated floor types with one another based on the previously mentioned variables as well as the advantages and disadvantages of each type of heating.
Water heated floor
A water heated floor uses hot liquid as a heat carrier, such as water, antifreeze, or both, running through pipes buried in the screed. Special heating boilers are used to heat the coolant. Gas, electric, and solid fuels can be used, depending on the fuel used; they can burn coal, firewood, pellets, peat briquettes, sawdust, etc.

The diagram below illustrates the fundamental layout of floor heating beneath ceramic tiles; each floor element is denoted by a number.
- 1 – thermal insulation layer. Its styling is necessary to retain heat. Otherwise, the floor slab or basement will be heated. Foil roll materials are mainly used as insulation: polystyrene foam or polyethylene foam.
- 2 – reinforcing mesh. Performs two functions: serves as a basis for fastening pipes with coolant and strengthens the screed.
- 3 – pipes with water or antifreeze as coolant.
- 4 – hydraulic regulator, with the help of which the supply of coolant to the pipes under the screed is changed (in other words, the floor temperature is regulated).
- 5 – concrete screed. More details about the technology of screed for heated floors can be found in the material “Screed for heated water floors”.
- 6 – tile adhesive.
- 7 – ceramic tiles.
Due to their numerous benefits, water heated floors have topped sales rankings. Among the benefits, it is important to mention:
- high operating efficiency (the main advantage) – the cost of heating the room, compared to alternative heating systems, is significantly lower. For example, in rooms with ceilings up to 3 m high, compared to central heating, 20-30% of the family budget is saved, and in high rooms – up to 50-60%. When compared with electric heating, the costs are 4-5 times lower;
- long service life, at least 50 years;
- versatility – can be laid under tiles in any room of a private house;
- comfort – it’s pleasant to walk on warm tiles barefoot;
- environmental friendliness – there is not a single factor that negatively affects the health of family members;
- aesthetics – the heating system is hidden from view (there are no pipes or radiators).
Additionally, there are drawbacks:
- can only be done in private housing;
- it is necessary to have a technical room for installing a heating boiler;
- powerful floor slabs are needed – ceramic tiles together with a thickened screed create a large weight load on them;
- there is no possibility of repairing pipes inside the screed if they leak – only complete dismantling of the floor;
- high thermal inertia – the mixing unit does not allow for fine temperature adjustment within 2-3 o. There are always sharp jumps, which is well illustrated by solid fuel boilers;
- the height of the room is reduced by at least 100 mm (insulation + pipes + screed + tile adhesive + tiles);
- high installation costs: it is necessary to build a utility room for the heating system, buy a heating boiler, pumps, pipes, mixing unit, etc.d., which is several times higher than the cost of cable heated floors;
- a complex and at the same time labor-intensive installation process that requires special knowledge in the design and installation of warm water floors;
- uneven heating of the floor at the inlet and outlet of the coolant – it cools as it passes through the pipes;
- solid fuel boilers require constant maintenance;
- high costs for heating 1 m2 of floor when heating small areas.
In conclusion, water heated floors are significantly less expensive to operate than comparable systems that use other energy sources. One more benefit is that this floor is very durable. However, this can only be accomplished with correct installation and premium parts. Nevertheless, the current drawbacks severely restrict the application’s range: it can only be used as the primary source of heating for a private home or cottage.
Cable electric floor
It is evident from the term "cable heated floor" alone that the heating element is a high-resistivity electrical cable. It is heated by an electric current that flows through it, much like an iron, electric stove, heating element, etc. The heat from the cable is transferred to the screed, which warms the tile.

The wires used for heating are:
- single-core;
- two-core;
- self-regulating.

Position A in the figure represents a single-core cable. The wire’s single core serves as a heating element in addition to an electrical conductor. There are two drawbacks to it:
- presence of radiation despite copper wire braiding. With constant operation of the system, the human body still feels some negative effects. When using heating as an additional heating source, the radiation dose is small. It is completely harmless even for a child;
- the installation scheme must be such that both ends meet at the thermostat, which is difficult to achieve with a complex room configuration.
Such a cable is reasonably priced, starting at 120 rubles for one p.m.
Double-core (B). Two wires are used in this cable design: a conductive wire and a heating wire (heating element). The single-core wire’s drawbacks are entirely eliminated by the system: radiation is eliminated, and there’s no need to join the ends at the controller (the wire is severed and bridged at the end of the installation to form a closed circuit). The laying of such a cable is unrestricted.
One minus is that it’s expensive (280 rubles for one pm).
For your information, the cost of the cable will exceed 10,000 rubles in order to heat a room that is between six and seven square meters.
Autonomous (B). A self-regulating cable is the most intricate, yet most dependable, floor heating system available. It can adjust its power within a certain region, concentrating on the temperature of the floor at each specific location. The cable’s internal structure, which consists of two conductors with a polymer matrix acting as a heating element in the middle, gives it this ability.
A single meter of cable costs an exorbitant 2700 rubles.
The diagram illustrates how a cable heated floor is installed.
- 1 – concrete floor.
- 2 – insulation (usually a foil backing like Penofol).
- 3 – mounting rails to which the cable is attached.
- 4 – heating cable laid according to the diagram.
- 5 – temperature sensor. Transmits floor temperature data to the thermostat.
- 6 – electronic or mechanical thermostat (controller).
- 7 – cement-sand screed, preferably with plasticizer and fiberglass.
- 8 – tiled floor.
The following are some benefits of cable heated floors:
- ease of installation – you can do all the work yourself;
- environmental friendliness – all cable elements are environmentally friendly;
- versatility – can be used in private homes and city apartments, in small and large rooms;
- long service life – at least 10 years;
- thinner screed compared to water floor heating;
- possibility of repair – the screed is opened within a radius of 10-15 cm from the point of rupture;
- high power, which makes it possible to use this type of heating for main heating;
- safety – the risk of electric shock is reduced to zero.
Consequences vary according to the kind of cable. Under furniture, single- and double-core cables are prone to overheating. The cost of self-regulating cable is very high. It also warms up gradually. High operating costs are a common drawback.
In conclusion, tiled floors are an excellent fit for this kind of heating. The best choice, in terms of price/quality, is a two-core cable.
Heating mats
Essentially, resistant heating mats are just cable heated floors arranged in a loop over polycarbonate reinforcing mesh. By using cable and mesh together, you can install tiles straight onto the mats, avoiding the need for a cement-sand screed stage (tile adhesive serves as the screed). Single- and double-core cables are available for mats.

Below is a diagram that illustrates how heating mats work on a tile floor.
- 1 – tiles.
- 2 – tile adhesive.
- 3 – heating mat.
- 4 – rough screed (serves at the same time as a heat accumulator).
- 5 – thin foil backing (insulation).
- 6 – floor slab.
Important: The authors of the majority of installation guides for heating mats recommend placing the cables directly on the concrete floor, a recommendation that is hard to justify. After all, there will be large heat losses when employing this technology to install heated floors, whether it be to heat the basement in first-floor apartments or the ceiling of their below-ground neighbors. Recall that all heated floor types need to be installed on a foil backing (warm bathroom floors beneath tiles are installed on foil without a backing, enabling you to meet the lower floor requirement).
Among cable mats’ advantages are:
- high readiness for installation: the cable is laid and attached to a reinforcing fiberglass mesh;
- lack of screed above the heated floor;
- durability – service life more than 50 years;
- ease of installation – the work can be carried out by premises owners without special knowledge and experience;
- quick installation – there is no need to wait for the cement-sand screed to completely set;
- convenient calculation of requirements (by area): there is no need to carry out complex calculations when determining the required cable length;
- possibility of laying on a wooden floor – low weight load on boards and joists due to the absence of screed;
- versatility – there are no restrictions on the type of room (kitchen, bathroom, toilet, corridor) and type of building (private house, apartment, bathhouse, cottage);
- environmental friendliness – the cable and reinforcing mesh do not contain materials harmful to health, and the degree of radiation is minimal, not harmful to health (according to measurements, electromagnetic radiation is less than that of a cell phone).
Minuses:
- low power;
- the maximum heating area does not exceed 15 m2;
- cannot be used as main heating;
- when laid directly on insulation it is prone to overheating. Therefore, it is necessary to make a rough screed between the backing and the mat or use reflective foil without a backing.
In conclusion, one of the greatest ways to heat a tile floor is with heating mats.
Infrared film
The ability of bodies heated above 60 degrees Celsius to release electromagnetic waves with a wavelength of 0.75 to 100 microns, which meet a dense barrier and transfer their energy to it in the form of heat, is the basis for infrared floor heating.

Based on this idea, producers of heated flooring started making infrared emitters with 5.6–100 micron operating range. A carbon emitter is connected to conductive strips made of copper or silver that are placed between two layers of film to create a warm floor. The current heats a carbon paste as it passes through it, causing the technical carbon to start emitting infrared light. They heat it intensely as they get to the tiles.

For heating ceramic tile flooring, warm film flooring is not the best option. He has serious drawbacks that make applying more difficult. However, the current benefits are remarkable:
- The possibility of heating the floor only in the places where people are located: the corridor, the working area and the resting place. In this case, electricity is more rationally used: it is not necessary to heat the lower part of the furniture (according to calculations, the savings reaches 20-30%);
- The cost of the kit is much lower than other heating systems, cable or water;
- The IR film itself is saved, since there is no need to lay on the entire surface of the screed;
- can operate in a temperature range from +200 o C (the plate can heat up to this temperature) to –70 o C, which allows it to be used in unheated rooms: a dacha or a country house in winter, where the owners rarely visit;
- rapid heating of the floor due to low thermal inertia;
- there are no administrative prohibitions on installation in apartment buildings;
- simple installation that does not require electrician or builder skills. Follow the instructions carefully and meticulously;
- no need for repair work due to parallel connection of strips. The failure of one will not affect the work of the others;
- long service life even with continuous operation;
- the room warms up evenly, while the warm air is below, and not under the ceiling;
- there are no convection and invection air flows inside the room, which gives an unexpected result: there are no internal drafts raising dust (a significant part remains in the places of formation), which is important for allergy sufferers (they do not get sick) and housewives (less amount of cleaning work);
- infrared radiation is absolutely harmless to humans: completely identical to sunlight.
Among the drawbacks we identify are:
- tiles cannot, unlike linoleum and laminate, be laid directly on the film. You need a protective intermediate layer of plywood, gypsum fiber board, chipboard or OSB;
- very high energy consumption of carbon emitters, which costs significant amounts from the family budget when paying for electricity;
- IR heated floors operate on a 220V network, which can lead to: electric shock; short circuit when water gets on the film; fire;
- dependence on the operation of power lines: if there is electricity, there is heat, if not, it will be cold;
- inability to rearrange furniture. The film will easily withstand additional loads, but it will not be the room that will heat up, but the bottom of the sofa, cabinet or any equipment.
The idea of a heated floor based on infrared film is also altered by the requirement to cover the emitter. The numbers in the figure below show:
- 1 – cement screed;
- 2 — foil insulation;
- 3 – IR film;
- 4 — polyethylene film as waterproofing;
- 5 – plywood, gypsum fiber sheets, etc.d.;
- 6 – tile adhesive;
- 7 – ceramic tiles.
In conclusion, installing infrared film flooring beneath tiles is not recommended, even with its benefits –heating mats perform better in this regard.
Infrared rods
Producers of heated flooring considered some of the drawbacks and inadequacies of film systems and cable floors, and they presented their symbiosis to customers: rod mats with infrared technology.
The IR heating mat is made up of carbon rods that are 3 mm thick and 83 cm long in a polyester sheath, as well as current-carrying copper bars that are insulated from heat with PVC. The rods are connected to cables that run parallel to one another. In the event that one or more rods fail, the heating system can still operate as usual thanks to this connection between the thermoelements.
The capacity of carbon black to lower electricity consumption as the temperature of the rod rises, thereby removing the possibility of the heating element under the furniture overheating, is another fantastic feature of infrared rods.
There are numerous benefits to mats made of IR rods:
- efficiency. Thanks to the ability of the rods to regulate energy consumption depending on the temperature of the carbon black, there is a decrease in energy consumption as the floor heats up, which is clearly demonstrated by the graph below;

- light weight – the load on the floors is reduced;
- corrosion resistance;
- fire safety – when heated above 60 o C, the rods stop conducting current, which does not allow them to heat up further;
- moisture resistance – the insulation of the connections is made at such a level that the mats can work when partially immersed in water. Therefore, they are well suited for the bathroom and balcony;
- environmental friendliness. Both the materials from which the system is made and infrared radiation do not pose a danger to humans;
- simple installation that can be performed by a beginner without experience in this field;
- compatible with all existing floor coverings;
- quick heating of the floor covering;
- frost resistance – remains operational in temperatures down to 50-60 o C, which makes it possible to install such heating systems in country houses and cottages where the owners do not live permanently in winter.
Additionally, carbon mats have a few drawbacks.
- very high cost of the kit – prices start from 4,000 rubles. for 1 m2;
- complex connection system to the thermostat;
- short service life – designed for 10 years.
Tiles work well with infrared mats in terms of performance. The installation plan is straightforward. As seen in the following figure, where:
- a – screed or concrete floor;
- b – insulation;
- B – heating infrared rods;
- g – tile glue;
- D – tile.

In summary, although the kit’s operational indicators are good, customers are discouraged from installing infrared rods for ceramic tiles due to its high cost.
Electro-water warm floor
When scientists and engineers attempt to combine seemingly incompatible elements into a single system, the most fascinating ideas come to mind. When an electric water floor was created, this took place. In terms of technical details, the solution was offered in two warm floor versions:

XL Pipe Systems (X-L Pipe) The South Korean business Daewoo EnerTec used a chromium-nickel heating cable and a hermetically sealed channel made of heat-resistant plastic to hold liquid antifreeze. He heats antifreeze by passing the cable through the current, which warms it.
The power supply cuts off when the predetermined temperature is reached, and the antifreeze, which is always in a static position, keeps the room’s temperature stable for a considerable amount of time. With this kind of heating system, you can get rid of pricey equipment like boilers, manifolds, mixing units, pumps, and so on. Similar to the boiler itself, the boiler does not require ongoing maintenance. You can save a lot of money on the family budget by doing this.
UNIMAT AQUA, a capillary electric heated floor manufactured by Caleo in South Korea. Water heating is more akin to this system. Just a special device is used to heat the water instead of a boiler, and thin tubes with a small diameter are used in place of centimeter-diameter pipes filled with liquid coolant. Because there are only 6 liters of distilled water in the system, the liquid can heat up fairly quickly.
Closed structure. The pressure differential at the hot and cold ends of the tube causes water to flow through it. The system’s drawback is identical to that of a traditional water-heated floor: as the water travels through the tube, it cools, causing the floor covering to heat unevenly.

These kinds of systems have the following advantages:
- no expensive and bulky components and assemblies are required;
- automatic control;
- overheating is eliminated, and therefore can be mounted under furniture;
- suitable for all existing types of flooring;
- quick access to the specified heating parameters;
- safe operation – no harmful radiation;
- economical consumption of electrical energy;
- quick and easy installation.
One of the relative drawbacks is the short service life (5–10 years). Given that the systems were only put on sale a little over five years ago, a practical test is not yet feasible. The brief service life—just a few years—precludes us from discussing flaws.
Thus far, the reviews on the forums have all been positive. Of course, there are also bad entries. However, none of the critics provide particular instances or data—only broad conclusions. Additionally, the portal’s editors do not feel free to offer their opinions on these tile floor heating systems in their entirety.
Typical layout:
- concrete base or screed;
- waterproofing;
- foil insulation;
- heating system pipes;
- screed;
- glue;
- tile.

In conclusion, the newly developed innovative system is worth considering for small-scale heating applications because of its low energy consumption and affordable set average price of approximately 10,000 rubles. The use of this kind of heating for tiled floors is problematic, though, because of its short service life; replacement will be costly and time-consuming.
What is better to choose
The examination of heated floors leads to a number of intriguing findings.
- In the private sector, any heating systems can be used under the tiles. Apartments have only electric.
- Water systems are the most economical for the main heating of a private home. Electric heated floors can be used as additional floor heating in different areas, for example, in the bathroom, on a glazed balcony (loggia) and in the toilet.
- In apartments, using electricity for heating on a constant basis is wasteful, only as an additional.
Both positive and negative characteristics can be found in electrical systems. Let’s arrange them in a table so that you can choose your heated floors with knowledge.
Table 1: Equivalency between electric heated flooring.
| Characteristics / Floors | Cable | Heating mat | Film infrared | Rod infrared |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Laying method | Placed under a cement screed with a thickness of at least 30 mm | Places directly under tile adhesive | Placed under gypsum fiber sheets (gypsum fiber sheets) or under cement screed with a thickness of 8-10 mm | Places directly under tile adhesive |
| Economical | Average | Average | High | Very high |
| Security level | High | High | High | Very tall |
| Warm-up method | Uniform convection | Uniform convection | Heats objects | Heats objects |
| Set price | Depends on cable. Can vary from low to high | Average | High | Very high |
| Reusability | No | No | Eat | No |
| Electromagnetic field | 0.25 µT | 0.25 µT | Hardly ever | Hardly ever |
| Life time | More than 30 years | About 50 years | More than 30 years | About 10 years |
| Guarantee | 15 years | 20 years | 20 years | Up to 5 years |
You are better able to make an informed decision about which electric heated floor beneath tiles is better by using the parameters listed in the table.
The editorial team at Stroyguru.com makes a decision and suggests purchasing infrared rods or heating mats for tiles. They are inexpensive to run and simple to install. However, cable mats are the clear winner in our ranking due to the high cost of the kit and the short service life of the rods.
The best manufacturers and models of heated floors for tiles
When buying heated floors, it is best to purchase from reputable manufacturers to avoid issues down the road. You will pay for the brand even though it is slightly more expensive, but you will be assured of exceptional quality. The top manufacturers include businesses from Belgium, Germany, Sweden, Russia, and other nations.
Valtec. The warm water floor brand that is most well-known throughout the CIS. Russia is the location of the equipment production facility and head office. Italians make pipes. Because of their long 10-year warranty and affordable kit price, Valtec products are more affordable than their imported counterparts. VSK offers customer liability insurance.

REHAU. Another renowned manufacturer of water heated floors is REHAU, based in Germany. Given that the company produces tens of thousands of different products under this brand, even those who are not in the construction or repair industry are familiar with it.

The company’s warm floor products, according to their manufacturers, have a 50–100 year operational lifespan because of cross-linked polyethylene pipes, which are resistant to plaque formation and can withstand mechanical stress and water hammer.
HENCO. The Belgian company HENCO’s products meet all DIN requirements. The company’s unique multilayer pipes are the primary characteristic of its heated floors. Pipes made of welded aluminum with thin walls inside and an outer layer of PE-Xc polyethylene.
The whole range of manufactured goods is offered for sale in Russia. On sale, though, are imitations as well. Consequently, keep in mind that heated floors are only made in Belgium, and that you should first ask the seller for a certificate of conformance.
THERMO. Experts and specialists agree that "Thermo Industri AB" of Sweden makes the best heated electric floors in the world. one of the first to introduce these products to the Russian market, having arrived in Russia and the CIS in 1991. Several production facilities (trade mark "Thermo AB") in Sweden and Russia offer a wide range of products.
The product’s unique feature is that it can be installed outside as well as indoors, for example, on porch steps.
TEPLOLUX. Moscow is home to Teplolux’s production facilities. Teplolux is one of the companies that make up the Special Systems and Technologies group. The main markets for produced electric floors are Kazakhstan, Belarus, and Russia. Although the manufacturer has sales representative offices in other former Soviet Union nations, sales there are not as active.
Domestic resources are used in production, but only the finest machinery and equipment from manufacturers around the globe, including Spirka and Dunst (Germany), Nokia (Finland), and Rosendahl (Austria), are used.
You can choose from a large selection of products to choose warm electric floors that fit any size and set of requirements. Teplolux Mini models, for instance, are perfect for a bathroom or toilet, and Teplolux Tropix heated floors work well in cold rooms that need a more powerful heating system.
The manufacturer has set a 50-year service life and a 20-year warranty for all of its models.
Comfort of the nation. Another 1991 formation of a Russian company. The products stand out for their excellent quality and numerous creative solutions because we have a dedicated design bureau that carries out in-depth scientific research.
Crucial: the listed companies were not the target of an advertising campaign; rather, their inclusion in the rating was determined by expert opinions and customer reviews. The content is entirely educational.
Basic principles of installing heated floors under tiles
In order to achieve an efficient heating system, there are a few fundamental guidelines that you must follow when installing heated floors.
- Underfloor heating does not require a screed on the base. The system can be mounted directly on the ceiling. This will allow you to gain a few centimeters of room height.
- The ceiling must be waterproofed. To carry out the work, you can use liquid glass or bitumen. Particular attention is paid to bathrooms, where a waterproofing film is additionally laid on top of the heating system.
- Foil insulation is laid on the waterproofing. Its thickness depends on the level of the floors in different rooms and the height of the ceilings. It should be borne in mind that the thinner the insulation, the more heat is lost.
- It is advisable to reinforce the screed over heating systems.
- For final leveling of the screed, with level differences of up to 1 cm, you can use tile adhesive. If the given figure is exceeded, use self-leveling mixtures (self-leveling floor).
Required materials and tools
In order to install a warm tile floor, you will need to purchase a set of heating mats, along with any necessary accessories, and assemble (purchase, borrow from friends or neighbors) a set of tools:
- a set of mats with a single- or double-core cable, which should contain: the mats themselves; cold ends; corrugated tube; temperature sensor with wires; thermostat;
- waterproofing mastic;

- foil insulation;

- box for thermostat;
- tile adhesive;
- tile.
Any components from the above list that are not included in the kit will need to be purchased separately.
Furthermore, you will require:
- terminals in the form of a sleeve (one for each connection) with heat-shrink insulation;
- heat-shrink tubing;
- silicone glue.
The equipment you ought to carry with you is:
- perforator;
- Bulgarian;
- knife or special device for removing insulation from wires;
- Phillips screwdriver;
- tester;
- construction hair dryer or lighter;
- scissors.
Preparatory work
One of the most crucial steps in the entire process is setting up the subfloor for the installation of warm electric mats. The following work is included in the step-by-step algorithm:
- all furniture is removed from the premises;
- the old screed breaks;
- the ceiling is being repaired. How to carry out the first operations correctly, you can see in the material “Preparing the floor for pouring screed”;
- the surface is primed;
- a layer of liquid or paste waterproofing is applied;
- a heat-insulating substrate is laid, covered on one side with a layer of foil or lavsan.
Installation instructions for electric heated floors
The steps involved in creating a heated floor beneath tiles with your hands are as follows:
Be aware that the installation of an electric heated floor beneath the tiles is scheduled in accordance with a screed that has already been laid, on top of which is an insulation and waterproofing layer.
- a layout plan for the mats is drawn up;
- The location of the thermostat is determined. It must be at a height of at least 30 cm from the floor. When installing heated floors in a bathroom or toilet, the thermostat should be placed in the corridor, where there is less dampness. In practice, this condition is often not met, which sometimes affects the quality of the device. There have also been cases of device failure during the warranty period, which is canceled by the manufacturer if the conditions for the location of the thermostat are violated. Then the lines of passage of the groove under the power cable and temperature sensor are marked (the cold ends of the heating mat can be laid next to the temperature sensor cable). The sensor should be located at a distance of approximately 50 cm from the wall;


- Use an electric drill or a hammer drill with a crown to cut out a socket for the box (the number of sockets depends on the model of the thermostat and the connection diagram);

- a 20×20 mm channel (groove) is cut out in the wall and floor. The easiest way to do this is with a wall chaser. When doing work with your own hands, you will still have to use other tools: a grinder and a hammer drill.

A cut is made along the channel’s lines with a grinder.

The wall is broken off between the sawn lines with a hammer drill and spatula to create a channel for the cable installation. This labor-and time-intensive task can be completed manually using a hammer and chisel;

- the base of the floor is swept or vacuumed, and then primed;
- the temperature sensor together with the cable is inserted into a corrugated tube;

- a corrugated tube with a temperature sensor is placed in a groove on the floor, and then placed in a channel in the wall. To prevent creases, the turning radius must be at least 5 cm;


- The cold ends of the mats are laid together with the corrugated pipe;

- the groove in the floor is sealed with tile adhesive;

- in the bathroom and toilet, the floor is first primed and then treated with a waterproofing compound (you can use Knauf Flachendicht water-dispersion insulation, PLITONIT HydroElast mastic or Ceresit CL 51 solution);

- the layout of the mats from the thermostat begins according to a pre-designed scheme. This start is due to the requirement to lay the cable loop so that the temperature sensor is in its center both along the length and width.
Take note: insulation with heat-reflecting foil is laid after waterproofing if a heated floor installation is done above the ceiling.

Construction tape or specialized tape is used to seal the joints in the insulation. In order to guarantee that the tile adhesive comes into contact with the ceiling, 50 x 150 mm holes are made in between the cable loops close to the foil backing, spaced about one meter apart. The windows ought to be spaced apart.

On the floor, matting are rolled out.

With scissors, the polycarbonate mesh of the mats is cut to change the direction of laying. Careful cutting is required to avoid touching the cable.
Adjacent strips’ cable loops must be separated by at least 5 cm. Crossing wires is strictly forbidden in this situation.

Mats can be stretched diagonally or laid in the shape of a trapezoid in challenging areas.

- mats are attached to the floor surface either using a self-adhesive base or silicone hot melt adhesive. This fixation is sufficient to ensure that the sections of the mats do not move before applying the tile adhesive;
- wires are switched.
Firstly, about 10 mm of insulation is cut off the wires.

Next, join the power wire to a crimp-style terminal. Here, you must make sure that the wire and terminal conductor have a good contact made by the connection.

To hermetically insulate the wire connection, a thermal tube is positioned on the connecting wire (cold end of the mat).

The cold wire’s stripped end is then carefully crimped after being inserted into the terminal.

A hairdryer is used to heat the mounted connection; this causes the terminal’s heat-shrinkable insulation to contract, guaranteeing a tight connection.

The heat tube travels to the wire junction where it is additionally heated by an open lighter flame or a hair dryer;

- all connections are checked using a tester. The results of testing the cable for resistance should not differ greatly from the stated indicators in the passport;
- the box is installed, and then the thermostat;

- all cables with the thermostat are switched according to the manufacturer’s diagram;

- tile adhesive is prepared;

- Apply tile adhesive to the electric mats using a notched trowel;

- ceramic tiles are glued.

The resource "Laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands" contains information on the subtleties of tile installation.
| Electric Underfloor Heating: | Good for small areas like bathrooms, quick to install, and can be controlled room by room. |
| Water-based Underfloor Heating: | More efficient for larger areas, works well with tiles, but requires more installation effort and can"t be easily controlled per room. |
The choice between electric and water-based warm floor systems for tiles is frequently made. Depending on your needs and the specifications of the project, each type offers a different set of benefits.
Electric underfloor heating systems are a popular option for renovations and smaller spaces because they are less complicated and more reasonably priced to install. They are appropriate for many types of floor coverings, including tiles, and they heat up quickly. But over time, their operating costs may be higher than those of water-based systems.
Conversely, water-based underfloor heating, sometimes referred to as hydronic systems, circulates heated water via pipes buried beneath the flooring. Even though they require more money for installation, they are very efficient and can be linked to different heat sources like solar panels or boilers, which results in long-term energy savings.
Think about your energy efficiency objectives, the size of the area that needs to be heated, and your budget when choosing between the two. Water-based systems eventually provide greater efficiency over larger areas, but electric systems are easier to install and better suited for smaller projects.
The optimal decision ultimately comes down to your personal preferences and circumstances. Warm floor systems that run on electricity or water can both effectively and comfortably heat your living area beneath tiles, increasing its overall comfort and worth.









