DIY plasterboard suspended ceiling

It may be less difficult than you might think to remodel your home’s interior, particularly if you decide to take on a project like hanging a plasterboard ceiling. This kind of ceiling helps hide pipes, wiring, and uneven surfaces while also giving your room a more contemporary feel. Furthermore, it can improve the overall insulation of your room and provide soundproofing benefits.

With the correct equipment and a little perseverance, even someone who is new to do-it-yourself tasks can effectively install a plasterboard suspended ceiling. All that is needed for this project are a few basic knowledge items and an openness to learning, not professional skills. In addition to saving money, you’ll get satisfaction from finishing a project around the house.

We’ll walk you through every step of the procedure in this article. You can discover all the information required to make a modern and fashionable ceiling, from material gathering to finishing touches. So grab a pair of gloves and let’s get started on giving your room a makeover!

Types of ceilings

Master finishers provide a range of techniques for completing the ceiling area. The following ceiling types are the most common:

The most popular technology for decorating ceiling spaces is the tensioner. Its main function is to affix polyester synthetic fabric or PVC film to aluminum or plastic profiles. It is best in this situation to have the tension material sew-free. Once the ceiling has been measured, it is made to order. Consequently, it is challenging to decorate the upper portion of the room independently using this method;

Pause. The technological procedure is not too dissimilar from the earlier ceiling design method. The differences lie in the stiffness of the frame (wooden beams for wooden floors, metal profiles for concrete ceilings, or rafter systems for attics) and the kind of material used to cover the ceiling (plasterboard, wood, metal, plastic, fiberglass, or mineral fiber boards are attached). Even with the intricacy of the technology, such work is independent;

Pinion and rack. The ceiling surface is mounted using steel or aluminum plates that have been varnished multiple times. installed typically in rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom) or unheated (frost-resistant);

Mirror. The style of this kind of ceiling ornamentation is akin to a suspended ceiling. The sole distinction is the use of mirror plates in place of gypsum boards. By doubling the ceiling height, they visually alter the room’s volume. Thirty to forty years ago, this style of the rooms’ upper sections was popular. These days, finding a mirror ceiling is quite challenging;

Emmed. This is a more straightforward design for a suspended ceiling. This structure’s ceiling is likewise made of stiff sheets. On a wooden or metal frame that is fastened directly to the floor slabs, rather than on a suspended structure, they are mounted. These ceilings are unable to use integrated LED lighting or conceal wiring for multiple communications systems;

The easiest and least expensive way to finish the ceiling area is with adhesive. This is not complicated at all; in fact, for a novice finisher, the technological process is even more understandable than painting or whitewashing.

The basic technique involves adhering 50×50 cm square polystyrene (also known as styrofoam) panels to the ceiling surface. The tiles can be painted a single color or mimicked to look like wood, granite, or plaster; they can also be smooth or embossed, painted simply or covered in a laminated protective film, etc.

Plattered. The ceiling is primed, puttied, and then covered with ornamental plaster using this technology. While the longevity and affordability of this type of ceiling are among its benefits, there are two drawbacks: a high labor intensity and the typical painted ceiling look with basic painting;

Cassette or raster. constructed from small, 60×10 or 120×60 cm rectangles known as cassettes (slabs) by skilled builders. composed of compressed mineral wool or glass. affixed to the ceiling with unique frames. With the variety of designs on the cassettes, you can design any room in your apartment (or house) to reflect your most avant-garde interior design concepts.

Plasterboard suspended ceiling

When it comes to ceiling decoration, it’s becoming more and more obvious that the goal is to maximize aesthetic impact at the expense of labor intensity and repair costs. When suspended structures with sewn plasterboard are used, the ceiling space has the most exquisite design. With the help of technology, this ceiling finishing method enables:

• hide ceiling problems (misalignment, cracks, chips, visible joints, etc.).d.);
• hide various types of wiring and cables;
• do not level, prime or putty the base of the ceiling, which allows you to save on labor costs and materials when carrying out these operations.

Plasterboard ceilings are stiff structures composed of a lattice-shaped metal frame that is fastened to the ceiling with hangers and to a metal profile on the walls. Self-tapping screws are used to fasten plasterboard or other cladding sheets to the assembled grid.

Advantages and disadvantages of using drywall

The following are some benefits of gypsum plasterboard suspended ceilings:

• long service life – 20-30 years;
• high strength – does not break when pressed or scratched;
• working with drywall does not require special tools and skills;
• installation of the frame is possible for any novice builder;
• good heat and sound insulation with the possibility of improving these characteristics using insulation;
• does not require special care – sometimes it is enough to go with a vacuum cleaner or a damp cloth;
• the widest possibilities in interior design – plasterboard can not only be cut into shapes, but also bent into curved shapes after soaking and drying with warm air;
• availability of materials at a price for all categories of the population;
• environmental friendliness – non-toxic, does not pose any threat to allergy sufferers, and therefore can be installed in any room of an apartment or house (bedroom, children"s room, etc.).d.);
• ease of installation of any types of lighting.

Yet, there are drawbacks to this kind of ceiling as well:

• constant repainting is required every 7-8 years of operation;
• steals the height of the room;
• requires finishing of gypsum board joints, recesses from hardware, primer and putty for finishing;
• becomes unusable when a small amount of water leaks from above, even when using moisture-resistant sheets;
• is destroyed by minor errors in calculations;
• There is no possibility of installation alone – a minimum of 2 people is required.

The benefits and drawbacks listed above demonstrate how selecting a suspended ceiling enables you to address a variety of issues with only minor challenges. Stretch ceilings, however, are more favored by clients. Why is this taking place?

Which is better – plasterboard or suspended ceiling?

When it comes to decorating the ceiling space, a comparison between plasterboard and suspended ceiling reveals:

• The service life of PVC film and drywall is different: film manufacturers indicate a 10-year service life in the passport (in reality it will last about 15 years), and plasterboard can not be changed for 20-30 years – it is enough to repaint it regularly;
• In terms of heat and sound insulation, both types of ceilings are approximately equal;

Important: Mineral wool should only be applied to suspended ceilings if better sound insulation or ceiling insulation is required.

• In terms of strength, a suspended ceiling has an advantage – it does not collapse from the slightest touch of a sharp object or a concentrated blow of low force, unlike PVC film;
• In terms of elasticity, plasterboard and suspended ceilings have parity – surprisingly, but the film can withstand loads of up to 100 kg/m2, which is clearly manifested when the apartment is flooded by neighbors above. In the experiment, a PVC ceiling with an area of ​​6 m2 withstood 500 liters of water, and only after 2 hours small streams of water began to appear due to delamination of the film;
• In terms of the ability to turn design ideas into reality, a suspended ceiling gives a significant head start to a suspended structure, especially in texture and color scheme.

Another big benefit of a stretch ceiling is its lower installation costs. If you compare costs in St. Petersburg, you will need to pay between 2,500 and 3,000 rubles for the installation of 1 m 2 of gypsum board. Prices for a complete work cycle and a suspended ceiling begin at 700 rubles.

The cost of plasterboard ceiling repair will go down to 700–800 rubles/m³ (this figure is subject to change, but not significantly), as the price also covers the cost of transportation for the delivery of 200 rubles/m³ of material.

The rate of work must also be considered. It is possible to install a suspended ceiling in a day; it is not possible to do so in this amount of time.

In conclusion, a stretch ceiling offers a considerable benefit based on a few parameters. However, experts suggest installing a suspended ceiling if you look at the problem long-term because it’s less expensive and won’t cause issues with subsequent repairs.

Where can plasterboard ceilings be installed?

A suspended ceiling requires the removal of 5–10 cm of the room’s height (the placement of hidden lamps always determines how far the floor slabs are from the hemmed gypsum board). Consequently, plasterboard suspended ceiling installation is not advised in "Khrushchev" buildings due to their small area and height (2.5–2.6 m).

The ideal installation is thought to be a single-level plasterboard installation on the ceiling with a height of 2.7 m, a two-level installation with an apartment height of 3.0 m, and a multi-level installation with very high ceilings, 3.3 m. and more, premises. This is based on the sanitary and technical requirements for the size of the living space and the design approach to interior design.

Materials and tools

It is generally accepted that you should assemble a set of tools and purchase the required supplies before beginning any work. This is a legitimate exception. Finding the precise quantity of profile, connecting pieces, fasteners, and drywall sheets requires finishing some preparatory work, which calls for the use of the appropriate tools.

To avoid segmenting the article’s section into multiple sections, go ahead and think about buying materials ahead of time while still depending on them, i.e. We will notify you ahead of time about the fifth stage of preparation work.

We will lower the cost of purchasing supplies and a set of tools in tables so that people installing a suspended ceiling on their own can get an idea of the cost of repairs.

Materials.

Name of materials	Quantity	price per one.	Price
Gypsum cardboard 3000x1200x6.5	6 sheets	360	2160
Profile UD (Mon) 28*27*3000	7 pcs.	85	595
Profile CD (PS) 66*27*3000	21 pcs.	100	2100
Direct suspension	126 pcs.	10	1260
Crab mount	55 pcs.	12	660
Self-tapping screws 3.5×25 mm	1 pack. 1000 pcs each.	300	300
Self-tapping dowels 6*60	266 pcs. (3 pack.)	230	690
Screws "bug"	560 pcs. (3 pack.)	100	300
Soil for gypsum boards	5 l	100	100
Gypsum putty	5 kg	200	200
Serpyanka mesh	2 units.	50	100
Damper tape	20 m	550
Water-based paint	1 bucket 9 l	1900	1900
Electric wires	19 m	80	1520
Light bulbs	11 pcs.	420	460

Be aware that the "crab" mount in certain retail chains is denoted by a suspension that is not appropriate for its intended use.

That brings the total expenses to 13,895 rubles. One square meter of ceiling finishing costs 655 rubles. This is merely materially based.

The tools you’ll need to buy or rent will take money out of the family budget. These are also not insignificant numbers.

Instruments.

Tool name	Rent price	Purchase price
Hammer with attachments	300	2450
Screwdriver	200	3630
"Bulgarian"	200	2140
Laser level	300	2746
Hydraulic level	do it yourself
Plumb	do it yourself
Roulette	No	76
Level	No	100
Construction knife	No	78
Chop cord (can be made)	No	92
Chop cord (can be made)	No	55
Faux fur roller	No	29
Cuvette	No	23
Narrow spatula (up to 10 cm)	No	100
Wide spatula (30-35 cm)	No	225

Preparatory work

How can I create a plasterboard ceiling on my own? There is nothing complicated about the technology. includes surface finishing, gypsum board installation, frame assembly, and preparatory work. The initial step in installing a suspended ceiling is preparation. There are five stages in all.

1. preparation of the premises;
2. drafting;
3. calculation of the amount of material;
4. marking the ceiling and walls;
5. purchase of materials.

Be aware that there are numerous websites that discuss how to attach drywall to the ceiling that contain a number of egregious mistakes. Not an exception applies to top portals. As a result, we advise you to critically read and analyze the information presented in multiple articles on the subject before beginning work. Instances of errors include:

• They suggest mounting drywall only on longitudinal CD profiles, which are also fixed parallel to the window (see. photo);

Errors in the attaching process: a) longitudinal profiles are positioned perpendicular to the window; b) transverse profiles are absent.

• incorrectly indicate the pitch between the CD ceiling profile (50 and 70 cm);
• it is recommended to retreat 10 cm from the wall for the first line of the frame;
• hangers are placed at the intersection of profiles, etc.d.

Preparing the premises

In a newly constructed building, the room must be completely cleared of debris before the ceiling can be installed. An inhabited apartment requires:

1. Remove all furniture from the room to ensure unhindered access to any point of the ceiling;
2. If it is impossible to complete the first step, cover the chairs, sofa or closet with plastic film to prevent dust generated when drilling the ceiling and walls for dowels. At the same time, you need to be prepared to repeatedly move pieces of furniture from place to place, to gain access to the entire ceiling space, and to clean armchairs and sofas, because dust tends to get under the film, finding the smallest holes;
3. Clean the ceiling from loose paint, traces of mold (fungus), soot.

Drafting

You will need a double notebook sheet in a box, a simple pencil (ballpoint pen), and a tape measure to complete design work. Every task is completed in multiple steps.

1. Measure the length of every wall with a tape measure, making sure to account for niches and protrusions. The walls’ perimeter is also measured, if there are any in the space. The first size is required to figure out how many lines the ceiling profile has, and the second size, the perimeter, is needed to figure out how long the guide profile is.

2. On a notebook sheet, the measured dimensions are applied to a specific scale. Consequently, you ought to receive a drawing of the ceiling.

3. The frame passage and the locations for the hanger attachments are depicted in a diagram. Here, the following details are crucial:

• Longitudinal profiles can be attached with a step of 40 or 60 cm, which is due to the weight of the drywall. The larger it is, the more often the profiles should be installed. Builders adhere to the following recommendation: for gypsum boards up to 9.5 mm thick inclusive, the step is 60 cm, for thicker, naturally, and heavier ones, – 40 cm. Why exactly these values? These figures are multiples of the standard width of a drywall sheet of 120 cm.
• Transverse profiles are attached only with a step of 50 cm (not 60 and 70 cm, as indicated in many materials), which is a multiple of the length of the drywall sheet;
• With a distance between longitudinal profiles of 40 cm, only they are attached to the ceiling hangers, and for the transverse profile, "crabs" are enough. At a step of 60 cm, cross profiles should also be attached to the ceiling.

4. The location of the lamp attachment points and the electrical wiring layout are completed.

Consequently, you ought to receive a drawing that resembles the one in the picture below.

Calculation of the amount of material

We will use the room’s actual dimensions—rather than a simplified version—to demonstrate the material calculation process: 5.6 meters long and 3.8 meters wide, with one wall’s length measuring 5.9 meters because of a 15-centimeter protrusion.

Important: the length of the walls is taken into account for calculations in all recommendations, including the Knauf company’s instructions. However, you are limited to using the room’s measurements if there are any niches or protrusions in one or more of the walls.

1. We measure the guide strip footage (PN), which is 28 x 27 mm and is fixed to the walls beneath the ceiling to support the frame:

• We calculate the perimeter of the walls: 5.6 + 5.9 + 3.8 x 2 = 19.1 m.
• We find the number of PS profiles: 19.1 m / 3 m = 6.36 pcs., where 19.1 m is the perimeter of the walls; 3 m – profile length; 6.36 pcs. – the number of strips required for ceiling installation. Since this quantity is not for sale, you will have to purchase 7 pieces.

2. From the quantity of a ceiling profile (PS) with a cross-section of 60 x 27 mm, we assemble a grid for gypsum board installation. We count the number of longitudinal and transverse rows in order to accomplish this. The installation of 6.5 mm thick gypsum boards will result in a pitch of 60 cm for longitudinal profiles and 50 cm for transverse profiles.

Pay close attention—this is crucial—the construction sector is always solving problems and is never still. The integrity of the plasterboard seams was continuously compromised by vibration, resulting in a network of cracks covering suspended ceilings. Thus, skilled gypsum board installers applied ornamental plaster or glued wallpaper. These days, fiberglass mesh is used to seal the seams, which solves the issue.

The calculation will be performed with the following formula: K = P/L – 1, where:

• K is the number of profile lines;
• P is the length of the room;
• L – step size (0.6 m).

To find the quantity, enter the numerical values into the formula:

• Longitudinal rows: 3.6 / 0.6 – 1 = 5;
• Transverse: 5.8 / 0.5 – 1 = 10.6. As a result of rounding up we get 11 rows.

The ceiling profile will be 68.6 meters long overall (5.8 x 5 + 3.6 x 11). Ceiling profiles in lengths ranging from 2.5 m to 4 m are available for purchase. The best choice in this instance is 3 m. After that, you’ll need to purchase 23 strips (68.6 / 3).

3. They will need to be extended because the room’s length is longer than the profile’s. Since the pitch of the transverse profiles in our example is a multiple of the bar’s length, the connection of the longitudinal parts of the frame will take place in the crab.

4. There are 55 (5 x 11) intersections between the longitudinal and transverse profiles, which is the number of "crabs."

5. A straightforward formula can be used to determine the quantity of direct hangers:

S is equal to (D + 1) x N plus (N + 1) x D.

• S is the number of straight hangers;
• D—number of rows of longitudinal profiles;
• N – number of rows of transverse profiles.

By entering precise values into the formula, we are able to determine that 126 suspensions must be purchased in order to work <(5 + 1) x 11 + (11 + 1) x 5>.

6. A self-tapping dowel measuring 6 x 60 mm or 8 x 80 mm is used to install guide profiles and secure hangers. Every 30 cm, two pieces are screwed into the wall to attach one hanger. You will require 266 pieces total.

7. Self-tapping screw “bug” LN 11 (3.9 x 11), 2 pieces; 4 pieces each with crab; 2 pieces with suspension; for attaching profiles to one another on the wall. Three packs of 200 pieces are required.

8. Self-tapping screws for drywall attachment 3.5 by 25 mm. Gypsum boards are fastened to the sheathing using them. One 1,000 piece package will be required.

9. In order to avoid having to make inserts, drywall needs to be purchased in lengths of three meters. If the plasterboard is only two meters long, you will also need to cut a piece that is 0.8 centimeters long. Six sheets in total are needed<(3.6 x 5.8) / (1.2 x 3)>, where the first two numbers represent the room’s dimensions and the second two represent the sheet’s length and width.

Marking the ceiling and walls

In a new building, the horizon line is marked with a hydro- or laser-level. The lowest point of the ceiling is then determined after taking several measurements. Measure down from it at least 5 cm (or 10 cm if you’re installing built-in lamps) to form the ceiling line. If you’re unfamiliar with these ideas and techniques for determining the ceiling line, we suggest reading the article "How to check the floor level in an apartment yourself?" Everything is one to one in this instance, albeit reversed.

Cutting off the horizon line is not necessary in an apartment with a laid floor because the floor will effectively serve its purpose. Using a hydraulic level (laser level) to determine the key point—the lowest portion of the ceiling space minus five centimeters—a line is drawn on the wall where the ceiling will be installed.

Marks are placed every 60 centimeters, starting from the wall, to allow longitudinal ceiling profiles to pass through. This same procedure is carried out on the wall across from it. Vertical lines are drawn from the marks to the ceiling using a plumb line, a metal ruler (rule), and a pencil. Next, a construction cord mark—twine smeared with colored chalk—is made along the ceiling where the profile will pass. If everything is done properly, you will have a grid of lines that are parallel to one another and the surrounding walls.

Regardless of the room’s size, longitudinal profiles need to be perpendicular to the window. As a result, the markings are first applied to the wall that has the window and then to the wall on the other side.

Another set of walls undergoes a similar procedure, but with 50 cm increments. Attachment points for plumbs are marked 30 cm from the wall, 60 cm apart for longitudinal profiles, and 25 cm from the wall in 50-cm intervals. This is even easier to understand in this way: the hangers are fastened in the center of each side of the rectangle that the profiles have formed (see diagram).

Purchasing materials

The "Materials and Tools" section above covers this subsection.

Frame assembly

Installing a supporting frame is the first step in installing a plasterboard ceiling. Let’s examine the step-by-step instructions for assembly.

Step 1: Drill holes all the way around the walls to attach the guide profile. In order to achieve this, the guide’s lower edge must strictly follow the designated ceiling line while it is pressed firmly against the nearby wall. The wall’s metal is drilled with dowel installation marks.

Ten centimeters from the wall’s edge should be the location of the first hole, and every thirty centimeters after that. Although it is advised to insert dowels every 50–70 cm, this lessens the structure’s rigidity.

Step 2: Dowels are driven into the holes that have been drilled in accordance with the markings. The guide is then firmly fastened to the wall, with a damper (sealing) tape glued to the back of the profile to stop sound waves from traveling from the wall to the ceiling.

Skilled builders recommend strengthening the joints to prevent potential ceiling deflection at the intersection of two guides. In order to accomplish this, a plate composed of plywood, plastic, or tin is placed inside the profiles at the junction point and fastened with a minimum of two self-tapping screws. As a result, the UD (PN) profile is put all the way around the room.

Important: It is fundamentally incorrect—most authors advise installing guides only for longitudinal CD profiles. Large portions of the gypsum board corners next to the wall are completely unfixed with this frame arrangement. The outcome becomes apparent in a few months when one of the sheets sags by one to two millimeters due to a rip in the sealed joints.

Step 3: Install direct hangers across the drawn line and along the ceiling. In this instance, making an effort to guarantee that the line is precisely in the middle of the fastener is required. Anchor bolts, which are more dependable, or self-tapping dowels—two pieces for each suspension—can be used to secure them. Their whiskers are bent downward at a right angle with pliers or hands after the suspensions are fastened.

Step 4: The ceiling plane is formed with nylon thread or fishing line. This kind of operation is required to maintain the room’s center ceiling level because the frame naturally bends downward under its own weight. Every longitudinal profile line is pulled by the thread, or fishing line. The thread is additionally fastened, bent upward at the appropriate height, to the suspensions’ whiskers (two to three work well enough to prevent sagging).

Step 5: Install longitudinal ceiling profiles. First, using "bug" screws, secure the PS profile to the guide bar by inserting it into the PN profile’s groove at the mark. It is then fixed in the suspensions one after the other. A level and a stretched fishing line are used to control the horizontal. The suspensions’ protruding whiskers are bent to one side.

Step 6: Using "bug" screws—one on each side—a "crab" mount is fastened to the longitudinal profile at the frame’s intersection.

Step 7: Attach transverse profiles with ends in the "crab" and a suspension in the center.

Heat and sound insulation

Mineral wool, which also effectively absorbs sounds, can be used to insulate the ceiling in cases where noisy neighbors reside upstairs or on the top floor. Through the use of a unique fastening mechanism known as the "fungus," it is attached inside the frame.

A room can be completely transformed by installing a DIY plasterboard suspended ceiling, which adds both style and functionality. Homeowners who are patient and have some basic DIY skills can complete this project. To achieve a smooth finish, plasterboard panels must be attached, a framework must be built, and paint or plaster must be applied. By using the appropriate equipment and following step-by-step instructions, you can produce a polished look that improves the appearance of your house and might even raise its value.

Drywall installation

Below are detailed instructions on how to mount a plasterboard ceiling by hand:

• Drywall is brought into the room where it will be installed and left for 2-3 days. This will allow the gypsum board to adapt to new conditions and take on a geometric shape for a specific temperature and humidity. Stored only horizontally;
• GKL is cut to size: the sheets are shortened, a recess is cut out for the protrusion;

Important note: in our example, only the final sheet of gypsum board is trimmed for odd rows. The first sheet in even rows is always shortened by 50 centimeters, and the final sheet is sized after that. This is done in order to create mismatched seams.

• Using a construction knife, at an angle of 45 degrees, chamfer along the edge of the cut;

• The first sheet is applied to the frame so that a technological gap of 1-2 mm remains near the wall – it is necessary for air exchange (ventilation) between the room and the ceiling space. The first self-tapping screw is screwed at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, subsequent ones every 20 cm. GKL are attached along each row of profiles, as well as along the edges. It is better to press the heads of hardware into drywall manually, using a Phillips screwdriver, which will prevent them from twisting. Along the edges of the sheet, at the seams, screws are screwed in “out of order”, not against each other.

Final finishing

The most important step is finishing the plasterboard after the suspended ceiling is installed. The quality of its execution determines how the ceiling space looks. Here, it’s important to draw attention to the following work stages:

1. sealing connecting seams and marks from hardware heads;
2. puttying the entire surface of the ceiling;
3. cutting holes for lamps;
4. painting the ceiling with water-based paint;
5. installation of lamps.

Sealing seams

The reinforcing tape, or "serpyanka," is used to seal the sheet joints. It has gypsum putty rubbed into the seams. It is also necessary to putty any damage to the screw heads and sheet at this point.

You can apply a final layer of putty to the trouble spots after the plaster has dried and shrunk for a day. Fine-grained sandpaper is used to sand the putty after the final layer has dried. The work "Leveling walls with plasterboard without a frame" contains instructions on how to finish drywall correctly.

Puttying drywall

A lot of finishing guidelines for gypsum board specify that priming the board before puttingty is a must. A primer is not necessary for putty mixtures made today, such as "Vetonit LR+," "KR," "JS," "Osnovit Ekonsilk," "Plitonit KP," and "Kreps KR." You can study the instructions for applying gypsum plasterboard at point 2.5, "Drywall putty," in the article "How to glue wallpaper on drywall?"

Cutting holes for lamps

The lamp installation locations are marked on the drywall sheets using the diagram that was created before any work on the ceiling was done. Using an electric or hammer drill with a detachable bit, holes are drilled. You can buy the crown from any hardware store. 140–350 rubles is its price range. Cutting blade sets measuring 26, 32, 38, 45, 50, and 63 mm in diameter are found in the crown.

Painting the ceiling with water-based emulsion

Painting is required before installing the lamps, which will make the process much easier overall (wallpaper or decorative plaster can also be used to finish the ceiling). One can learn various painting nuances, such as selecting the appropriate paint and applying layers in a specific order, from the project "How to paint a ceiling with water-based paint without streaks"?

How to make a backlight

Installing a suspended ceiling virtually becomes meaningless without lighting design solutions; the same effect can be achieved with a plainly painted ceiling (apart from the possibility of hiding some ceiling flaws; in this scenario, straightforward ceiling repairs are far less expensive).

Different lighting options are used in practice:

• Contour – the light is directed from bottom to top, from the first level of the ceiling to the second, along the entire perimeter of the room;
• Directional – light flows parallel to the ceiling surface. LED lamps are also located around the entire perimeter of the room. They can shine into the room, or vice versa – from the center to the walls;
• Standard – lampshades are installed in gypsum boards, the lamps shine downwards;
• Figured – all lamps shine in different directions, creating an unusual lighting effect;
• Spot – the most complex, reminiscent of the night sky, when, along with conventional LED lamps, miniature LEDs are mounted, indicating a luminous point on the ceiling.

Without the assistance of an electrician, you can install this type of lighting on your own. This only presents one challenge: designing ceiling lighting for a particular space.

How to make multiple levels

Multi-level suspended ceilings can be installed in apartments or houses with high ceilings. The number of interior design options in this situation tends to infinity. This ceiling space design does not present any unique challenges. The sequence of tasks is largely similar to the technological procedure for installing a single level:

1. plan in advance and draw on paper a level layout;
2. transfer the drawing to the walls and ceiling: mark the levels of fastening of drywall and load-bearing profiles;
3. mount the frame for the first level;
4. bend the side profile to fit the selected pattern;
5. install the side frame;
6. mount the second level frame;
7. route the wiring for the lamps;
8. cut drywall for both levels;
9. attach plasterboard at both levels;
10. cut and then bend the gypsum board strip for installation on the side frame;
11. close the box;
12. carry out finishing treatment of the installed ceiling;
13. cut holes for the lamps and then paint the ceiling;
14. install lamps.

Therefore, hanging a suspended ceiling is not hard to install. The only issue is that this type of work cannot be completed by one person.

Step	Description
1. Plan and Measure	Decide on the ceiling design and measure the dimensions of the room.
2. Install the Framework	Fix the metal or wooden framework to the ceiling, ensuring it"s level.
3. Cut Plasterboard	Cut the plasterboard sheets to fit the framework, using a utility knife.
4. Fix Plasterboard	Attach the plasterboard to the framework with screws, spacing them evenly.
5. Tape and Mud Joints	Apply joint tape and compound to the seams between plasterboard sheets.
6. Sand and Finish	Sand the dried compound smooth and apply a finish, like paint or texture.

A DIY plasterboard suspended ceiling installation may be a satisfying project that greatly improves a room’s appearance and feel. You don’t need specific knowledge or equipment to produce professional-caliber results if you take the time to thoroughly plan and carry out each step.

It is important to measure precisely, cut the plasterboard precisely, and make sure that all of the parts are fixed firmly throughout the process. By taking these safety measures, you can make sure your ceiling is both aesthetically pleasing and functional while also avoiding common pitfalls.

When it comes to final touches like sanding, jointing, and taping, don’t forget to take your time. Following these steps is essential to getting a polished, smooth surface that can be painted or decorated to fit your overall design scheme.

Making a plasterboard suspended ceiling can be a rewarding do-it-yourself project if you have the patience and attention to detail. Along with a gorgeously finished ceiling, you’ll also feel proud that you did it yourself.

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