How and with what to finish the entrance door slopes inside and outside the apartment?

There are a number of functional and decorative factors to take into account when finishing the entrance door slopes inside and outside your apartment. The reveals, or slopes, that surround the door frame are important features that protect and insulate your entryway in addition to adding to its overall aesthetic.

Finishing the interior slopes with trim or molding is a popular and long-lasting option. Wood, PVC, or composite materials can be used to create trim, which has both aesthetic appeal and practical advantages. It provides a clean transition and guards against deterioration over time by covering the exposed edges of the wall and door frame. Select a trim style, such as a contemporary PVC option or a traditional wood finish, that goes well with your interior decor.

Weather resistance becomes important for exterior door slopes. The materials used in these areas need to be resistant to changes in temperature, moisture, and sunlight because they are exposed to the elements. Aluminum or PVC capping is a common option because it offers a weather-resistant, long-lasting finish that requires little upkeep. It also provides a polished, tidy appearance that improves the curb appeal of your house.

Plaster or drywall compound is another option for creating a smooth finish on interior and exterior door slopes. Using this technique, the slopes are covered with plaster or compound and smoothed to make them blend in perfectly with the surrounding walls. It’s a flexible choice that lets you create a unique finish, whether you want it to look sleek or textured.

The durability, upkeep, and visual appeal of your entrance door slopes should all be taken into account. Every choice has special advantages, whether it’s plaster finish for versatility, weather-resistant capping for the exterior, or trim and molding for the interior. To create an entrance that is both practical and welcoming, choose the option that best fits your style preferences, financial constraints, and practical needs.

Inside:	For inside apartment door slopes, you can finish them with paint, wallpaper, or wood paneling to match your interior decor.
Outside:	For outside apartment door slopes, consider durable materials like PVC trim, aluminum, or treated wood to withstand weather conditions.

Why are slopes needed?

Near the installed entrance door, there is always a portion of the wall that is not finished. There are platbands put in place all the way from the apartment to the landing. The front portion of the doorway has slopes. They are essential for a number of reasons:

• give the door an aesthetically finished look;
• isolate the hallway from the penetration of noise and cold from the entrance;
• ensure a harmonious transition from the front door to the inner surface of the wall;
• hide the mounting elements of the door frame from intruders;
• seal recesses, cracks, gaps in the doorway.

When installed

Slopes are installed on the front door as follows:

• when replacing a door block. It will not be possible to install a new door without damaging the walls nearby, especially since the installation recommendations directly mention the need to remove old slopes;
• damage to the material from which the slope is made: cracks, shedding, deep scratches, etc. appear.d. Defects can appear both as a result of mechanical impact and during operation of the door due to microvibrations;
• changing the interior of the hallway. Finishing the slopes of the front door from the inside with your own hands is also done with a new corridor design, when the doorway begins to fall out of the general style. The fact that the slope affects the overall appearance of the room began to pay attention only recently;
• the appearance of mold or mildew. A rather unusual, but emerging reason with enviable regularity. It is almost impossible to get rid of such a scourge without replacing the slopes. Treatment with antiseptics does not help, since the problem is hidden inside the finishing materials.

Options for finishing entrance door slopes

There are a variety of unconventional and distinctive options available for finishing the jambs that still blend in well with the apartment’s overall design.

Plaster

Plastering is one of the most conservative ways to finish a slope. When it was first employed several centuries ago, it quickly emerged as the clear winner. Plastered slopes have seen a dramatic decline in popularity since the introduction of new finishing materials. The technique offers a lot of benefits.

• no power tools are used in the technological process;
• lower finishing cost compared to alternative options;
• high strength – at the same time strengthens the ends of the walls in the doorway;
• insulates the technological gap;
• easy to clean from dirt;
• tolerates fluctuations in temperature and humidity without consequences;
• long service life.

Inverse of the procedure:

• the work is labor-intensive;
• a lot of dust and dirt;
• plasterer skills required;
• it takes several days for the solution to gain strength;
• not the most attractive look – you can only paint or wallpaper it.

The final point is up for debate. The issue is essentially resolved by the appearance of reflective decorative film with a 3D effect. Furthermore, ornamental plaster—which is by no means inexpensive—can be used.

Drywall

Plasterboard finishing of slopes is by far the most cost-effective option. This is understandable given the method’s many advantageous features:

• low cost of finishing;
• high heat and sound insulation;
• environmentally friendly materials;
• simple installation technology accessible to novice builders;
• GCR can cover openings of any shape;
• long period of operation.

Experts mention the following drawbacks:

• poor resistance to water – if the apartment is flooded, in 90 cases out of 100 you will have to change the slopes. They will definitely draw in moisture from below, even if moisture-resistant types of drywall are installed;
• the need for finishing (priming, puttying, painting, wallpapering, decorative films);
• low strength.

It is acceptable and possible to argue the final point. There exist multiple methods to enhance the strength of drywall sheets multiple times:

• plant it on solid glue, without the formation of voids;
• buy gypsum plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 mm (wall);
• when installing the sheathing, do not allow distances between the profiles of more than 20 cm.

Tree

Finishing slopes with natural wood is another age-old method. Oddly enough, this appears to be a sign of provincialism to a lot of people.

However, costly wood species that offer the potential for artificial aging can, in a number of ways, provide both wooden and metal entry doors with an incredibly rich-looking finish and long lifespan. Any minor harm is repairable. Here are a few additional benefits:

• with their help, almost perfect insulation of the space between the door frame and the opening wall is carried out;
• environmentally friendly material;
• You can buy it in a store, or you can make slopes for the front door with your own hands, using the most original design ideas in practice.

Due to its high cost, this method is rarely found in apartments; however, it is the first method found in villas and cottages.

Laminated MDF panels

Laminated MDF panel slopes are becoming more and more common. This material’s accessories are particularly sought after.

For comparison, non-laminated MDF boards are significantly less expensive and can be used to seal the jambs. The only issue that comes up is how to finish the apartment’s front door’s slopes—should it be painted or covered with paste?

There are several benefits to organizing slopes with MDF panels. They

• withstand moderate impacts without breaking. When bringing heavy and bulky pieces of furniture into the apartment, the risk of damage is reduced to zero;
• are produced in various designs (relief, colors, imitation of valuable wood, etc.).d.), which makes it easy to fit into any interior, from classic to high-tech;
• easy to install by one person;
• have good noise and heat insulation properties;
• can be installed with both wooden and metal doors.

A small number of drawbacks exist, but they are noteworthy:

• the panels are very expensive, second only to wood, as well as natural and artificial stone;
• sharp objects leave scratches;
• constant care is required – accumulated dirt is difficult, and often almost impossible, to wash off;
• cannot be installed in rooms with high air humidity, which, however, has nothing to do with apartments.

PVC panels

Despite the ease of installation, variety of designs, and low cost of PVC, attempts to apply the knowledge gained from installing slopes on PVC-panelled plastic windows to entrance doors do not yield the desired outcome. Here are a few of the causes:

• thin material comes into disharmony with the door material, although if you try hard, you can choose acceptable types of panels;
• easily deformed and damaged – there is no gentle operating mode, as with windows;
• does not hold geometry well on deep slopes.

Sandwich panel

Sandwich panel slope fabrics are composed of plastic. However, it differs greatly from PVC panel slopes in that the interior is filled with polyurethane sealant rather than being hollow and supported by stiffeners. Materials with thicknesses of 10, 24, 32, and 40 mm and widths of up to 1.5 m are available for purchase.

Among the indisputable benefits are:

• beautiful appearance;
• good thermal insulation properties;
• easy care – the most undemanding material in this regard;
• not afraid of high humidity and sudden temperature changes;
• simple installation technology – all work is performed in one step;
• no finishing required;
• allows you to finish a wide slope, up to 1.5 m, with one sheet;
• has absolutely flat geometry.

Similar to PVC panels, high-quality panels are difficult to clean and easily scratched when in use. Cheap sandwich panels fracture when subjected to mechanical stress (impacts) and eventually turn yellow.

Natural and artificial stone

Fashion is a fickle woman. It appears on command and then disappears. This holds true for both man-made and natural stone slopes. They peaked in popularity at the end of the previous century and then declined. These days, their style is making a comeback. They purchase natural, pricey marble and granite in addition to cheap, sandstone-like stone.

The stone offers a lot of benefits.

• there is no need to level the surface of the jamb;
• You can do all the tiling work yourself – the technology is similar to laying tiles;
• the material matches any interior;
• stones have unique designs, shades and textures;
• not afraid of water, frost and fire;
• safe for the health of apartment owners;
• durable – difficult to damage;
• has a long service life, exceeding the service life of doors.

• very high price for most types of stone, including artificially created ones;
• requires masterly work when finishing walls at the border of two materials: slope stone and wall material.

The stone slopes have an amazing appearance if one has the necessary funds and follows all instructions exactly. When the cost and the quality are equal, this is the situation.

We examined some commonplace basic finishing options. In reality, a wide variety of additional finishing materials are employed (one-sided sandwich panels, ceramic tiles, laminated chipboard, parquet, etc.d.).

It makes no sense to think of them separately because they are derivatives of those that are (for example, laminated chipboard shares characteristics and installation technology with MDF panels, tiles with natural stone, and single-sided sandwich panels with double-sided ones). Laminating and lining are other materials that are sporadically used.

Lining

Unquestionably, wood materials offer benefits. When it comes to slope lining, professionals and designers discuss the following drawbacks:

• difficult to fit into the interior;
• making small slopes is problematic;
• is capricious about changes in humidity;
• treatment with antiseptics and fire-fighting impregnations is required;
• high price, approximately equal to MDF and slightly lower than natural solid wood.

Experts therefore suggest that in these situations, it is preferable to spend a little bit extra money but opt for natural wood.

Laminate

Laminate is another option for finishing slopes "for an amateur." He:

• sufficiently high strength;
• a large selection of colors and textures, which makes it easy to select the necessary material for the design of the hallway;
• good thermal insulation properties;
• easy care.

• good conductor of noise;
• afraid of changes in both temperature and moisture;
• service life does not exceed 15 years – one of the lowest indicators among all materials used for sealing jambs.

For added durability and aesthetic appeal, finishing the entrance door slopes inside and outside your apartment requires careful material selection and application of the right techniques. This article provides step-by-step instructions on how to finish these areas in a way that complements your interior design and can withstand external elements. It also explores practical solutions and considerations for selecting materials like wood, PVC, or drywall.

Instructions for finishing slopes with your own hands

Slope construction technologies can be broadly classified into three categories, each of which has variants in common usage.

Materials and tools

1. Using a cement-sand mixture to plaster. This is the least expensive approach, but it also requires a lot of work. In order to work, you’ll need:

• cement with sand or dry cement mixtures;
• deep penetration primer;
• putty;
• fiberglass or serpyanka;
• metal perforated corner to strengthen the outer corner;
• finishing finishing materials (paint, wallpaper or decorative film);
• masking tape to protect the door frame;
• short rule;
• level;
• Master OK;
• paint brush (roller) for priming the wall;
• primer tray;
• container for stirring the solution;
• electric drill with a mixer attachment for mixing the solution;
• set of spatulas;
• grater;
• fine sandpaper or paint mesh.

Note: The article "How to properly plaster a brick wall" contains a more comprehensive list of tools needed for plastering work.

2. Applying different adhesive mixtures to the wall to adhere finishing materials. Although this finishing technique costs more than plastering, it is easier to use and takes less time. Furthermore, it offers an enormous array of design options for embellishing the interior of the hallway and front door. In order to work, you’ll need:

• finishing materials (plasterboard, PVC panels, chipboard, MDF, natural wood boards, etc.d.);
• adhesive mixture (specialized glue, putty, polyurethane foam, dry gypsum plaster);
• primer;
• antiseptic solutions;
• level;
• set of spatulas;
• paint brush;
• primer cuvette;
• construction pencil;
• roulette;
• a long, flat object for drawing a cutting line on panels or plasterboard;
• cutting tool (drywall knife, panel saw or grinder with cutting wheel);
• a container for stirring the solution or glue, if it was purchased dry;
• construction mixer or electric drill with attachment.

You will need a serpyanka to seal the joints between the upper slope and the side slopes and a perforated corner to reinforce the corners when working with drywall.

3. Slopes are fastened to sheathing. The technique is only usable in cases where the space between the door jamb and the frame is considerable. The only choice if it is 2-2.5 cm is glue.

There are several benefits to this method, including easy installation, the chance to conceal different cables, the ability to create a large "dawn" opening, and the installation of concealed lamps to light the interior doorway. Experts and customers alike fail to identify any drawbacks with the approach.

Throughout the task, you’ll require:

• facing materials;
• block for the frame – made of wood, metal or metal profile;
• dowels with self-tapping screws for attaching the sheathing to the wall;
• self-tapping screws or “liquid nails”;
• antiseptic;
• hammer drill with a set of drills;
• screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver;
• construction knife for drywall;
• grinder for cutting metal;
• wood saw;
• level;
• plumb line;
• roulette.

You will also require the items mentioned in paragraph 2 when working with gypsum boards.

Now that you have everything you need, you can start working. Let’s examine how to create front door slopes using different materials using your hands.

Plastering

The following order is followed when carrying out the work step-by-step:

• The ends of the walls are prepared for the application of cement-sand mortar: the old plaster and remaining fasteners are removed, the surface is cleaned of dirt, loose pieces of brick and peeling concrete. The foam protruding from under the box is cut off;
• the jambs of the opening are primed, twice. The second layer is applied after the first has dried. The beam above the door is processed with Benonokontakt, also twice;
• external corners are reinforced with a perforated corner, which will also serve as a beacon when applying the solution. It is secured with putty;

• a second beacon, also from a plaster corner, is placed near the door on self-tapping screws;
• the frame and door leaf are covered with plastic film, which is secured with masking tape;
• CPS is diluted in a 1 to 1 ratio of sand and cement to apply the “spray”;
• spray is applied;
• after the first layer has dried, apply the second – primer. The solution for it is prepared according to the instructions, with the addition of fiber to reduce shrinkage and prevent cracking. The soil layer should not exceed 3 cm – otherwise the procedure must be repeated;
• after the soil has gained strength, but has not completely dried, a finishing operation is carried out – a thin, 1-2 mm layer of liquid mortar is applied, or in plasterer"s parlance – a covering that allows you to obtain a smooth surface. If the slopes are covered with wallpaper or decorative film, this is enough. The surface of the plaster is puttied under the paint.

In "Plastering walls on beacons with your own hands," plastering technology is covered in great detail.

Drywall

The technological procedures for installing chipboard and MDF panel slopes and plasterboard slopes are exactly the same. Both can be glued to a frame or mounted otherwise.

Therefore, we will demonstrate a step-by-step workflow for attaching MDF to the sheathing using glue, using the example of gypsum plasterboard.

When using glue, you have to:

• clean the surface of the walls from dust and dirt, remove excess mounting foam, and then treat with an antiseptic and primer (or a primer with an antiseptic already added at production);
• draw slope lines on the floor and along the door frame with a pencil;

Note: The width of the sheet should be one centimeter wider if you intend to run the drywall behind the box profile. The slope line is only drawn on the floor, and a groove is cut out in the polyurethane foam to accommodate the slope.

• measure the slopes, and then cut the gypsum board sheets to size;
• glue the upper slope, for which you apply the adhesive mass in piles (when using polyurethane foam, it is applied with a thin snake);
• for better fixation of the slope, two or three stops are installed;
• After the glue has set, the side slopes are attached, the joints are sealed with sickle tape and puttyed. After the putty has dried, they are sanded with fine sandpaper, after which the surface of the drywall is puttied;
• after the putty has completely dried, the slopes are painted or covered with decorative film.

Another option is to combine the two methods: place a wooden block next to the box. It is fastened to the gypsum board with self-tapping screws. The sheet is taken with glue from the apartment’s side. The only thing to keep in mind is to insulate the door side at a distance of two thirds the slope’s width, between the wall and the plasterboard.

MDF panels

When the technological divide is greater than three centimeters, the frame method is employed. For frame components beneath plasterboard, any kind of wood, including metal profiles, will do; for panels, only wood will do.

The following order is followed when performing the work:

1. the tree is treated with an antiseptic and then cut to size;
2. using self-tapping dowels, the block is vertically attached to the opening close to the frame and flush with the edge of the wall on the other side;
3. horizontal strips are attached if the panels will be fastened with liquid nails (when fastening with self-tapping screws, two vertical strips are sufficient);
4. all cells are filled with insulation – the procedure is mandatory;
5. the dimensions of the slopes are measured;
6. the panel is cut in accordance with the obtained measurement results;
7. using liquid nails or self-tapping screws, MDF is attached to the sheathing.

PVC panels

A relatively well-read apartment owner is aware that unique wall-mounted profiles are used to attach plastic panels. These stripes are easily noticed and often ignored. however not when it comes to slopes.

Here, the panels can be glued or fastened to a unique frame (where they will be arranged horizontally). There is a restriction, though: there are no connecting seams provided, and the slope’s width cannot be greater than the panel’s width.

The following order is followed when performing operations:

1. preparing the wall surface. If the height differences are more than 2 mm per meter, the surface is plastered or puttyed. The type of work depends on the curvature of the surface: a large difference is eliminated with plaster, up to 1 cm – with putty;
2. The walls are measured, after which the slopes are cut. As in the case of drywall, when the panel is launched behind the door frame, its width increases by 1 cm. It is necessary to cut from the tenon side;
3. to increase adhesion (adhesion), the wall is treated with a primer, and the plastic on the back side is treated with sandpaper;
4. the adhesive mass is applied around the perimeter with a continuous tape, and inside the panel – with a snake;
5. the slope is pressed against the wall and immediately comes off. In this way, glue is applied to the wall, which is absorbed into the pores and sets. After 5-7 minutes, the slope fragment is completely glued.

Laminate

There are options for laminate flooring. But Russian artisans have discovered another application for it: lining hillsides. The technology used to create slopes out of polyvinyl chloride panels is precisely replicated in this process. The slats can be put in a pre-installed frame or glued (polyurethane foam is the only material used).

Artificial stone

When working with stone, either natural or artificial, the most important thing to do is draw a diagram showing the placement of each element. If the stone is in the form of a casing, draw it in real scale on the slope and wall. You should also lay it out on the floor.

The stone is fastened in a seamless manner using glue or a unique mixture. When ceramic tiles are used to face slopes, seams are visible. Differences on the wall should not be more than 1 centimeter. The cement-sand mortar is level if there are more.

With clapboard

Self-tapping screws hold a wooden lathing to which the clapboard is fastened. The drill holes are pre-drilled for the screws to avoid the material from cracking. The drill’s diameter ought to be one to two centimeters less than the screws’ cross-section. The caps have two options: either they are visible or they are recessed and sealed with a unique compound. This is a question of preference for the owner.

Conclusion

Owners now find choosing slopes to be a headache because there are so many options available. You may employ:

• plaster, including decorative;
• gypsum board;
• natural wood;
• laminated MDF and chipboard;
• PVC panels;
• artificial and natural stone;
• lining;
• tile;
• laminate;
• single- and double-sided sandwich panels.

The facing material is attached using the adhesive and frame methods. Fitting the slopes into the apartment’s interior is the most important factor to consider.

You can significantly improve the look and feel of your apartment by finishing the entrance door slopes on the inside and outside. The gaps that exist between the door frame and the wall are known as reveals or slopes. Inside, they add to the overall interior design in addition to serving as a transitional element between the door frame and the wall surface. They are essential for weatherproofing and preserving the entrance’s structural integrity outside.

When selecting materials to finish these door slopes, take functionality and aesthetics into account. Inside, durable solutions like painted drywall, PVC, or even wooden trim can go well with your interior design. Wooden trim can be painted or stained to match your flooring and doors for a timeless appearance. PVC is appropriate for humid environments because it requires little upkeep and is impervious to moisture.

Give preference to weather-resistant materials for exterior slopes. Because of their strength and resilience to moisture and temperature fluctuations, PVC, aluminum, or treated wood are great options. These materials seal gaps that could allow heat or cold air to escape, protecting the door frame from weather damage while also improving energy efficiency.

In order to guarantee the durability and efficacy of the materials you have chosen, installation is essential. Make sure the finishing materials are cut and measured correctly so they fit tightly against the wall and door frame. To stop drafts and water intrusion, weatherstripping or caulking should be used to seal any gaps. Frequent upkeep, like resealing or repainting, can prolong the life of your finishes and maintain the polished appearance of your entry.

Video on the topic

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