Although hanging wallpaper can seem like a difficult task, you can accomplish professional results on your own if you take the right approach. Wallpaper is an elegant and adaptable solution, whether you want to update a room or make a complete overhaul.
Getting the necessary equipment and supplies together is crucial before you begin. When the wallpaper is prepared properly, it will stick well and last for many years. Every stage of the process, from selecting the ideal wallpaper to priming your walls, is essential to a quick and easy completion.
We’ll walk you through the process of hanging wallpaper in this article. You’ll pick up useful hints and techniques to speed up and simplify the task. You can create an amazing look that elevates your home decor with a little perseverance and attention to detail.
If you follow a few easy steps, hanging wallpaper yourself can be a quick and effective way to change any room: properly prep the walls, measure and cut the wallpaper, apply the adhesive evenly, and smooth out any wrinkles or bubbles. Without hiring an expert, you can accomplish a polished finish with the correct equipment and a little perseverance.
- Preparatory stage
- Selection and preparation of glue
- Choosing wallpaper depending on the room
- Wallpapering technology
- Materials and tools
- Buying wallpaper
- Calculation of material quantity
- Wallpaper requirements
- Buying glue
- Where to start gluing
- Determining the pasting scheme
- Step-by-step instruction
- How to make joints invisible
- How to hang wallpaper in corners correctly
- How to glue near windows and doors
- FAQ
- At what temperature to glue wallpaper
- When can you open windows after pasting?
- What to do if the wallpaper bubbles
- What to do if the wallpaper is see-through
- How long does it take for wallpaper to dry?
- How to glue meter-long wallpaper alone
- Some tips from the professionals
Preparatory stage
A new building’s wall preparation differs slightly from that of a residential apartment. In a residential apartment, the process starts with removing the outdated finishing, such as paint, wallpaper, and whitewash. The walls are examined thereafter. The walls are fixed and the old plaster removed if needed.
The installation of door and window units, wiring, floor screed, and ceiling whitewashing in the new building are all being finished. Following this, the tasks in the new and old apartments are identical:
- the surface of the walls is prepared for applying plaster: notches are made, primed, beacons are mounted;
- the walls are plastered with gypsum (cement-sand) mortar or dry plaster (OSB board, plasterboard, plywood);
Attention: Plastering with a gypsum-containing solution is not allowed in high-humidity rooms, such as bathrooms, kitchens, or toilets.
- the plaster layer is puttied (if the finishing grouting is done at a high level, and the wallpaper is planned with a relief pattern, the operation can be skipped);
It is important to apply a thin layer of putty to the plasterboard so that the pasted wallpaper can be removed later on without damaging the sheet.
- a primer is applied to ensure the wallpaper glue adheres to the wall.
The articles "How to prepare walls for wallpapering" and "How and what is the best way to prime walls before wallpapering" walk readers through the entire wallpaper preparation process step by step.
Selection and preparation of glue
The type of wallpaper glue used to decorate walls with trellises has a major impact on the decoration’s quality. You can glue walls without air pockets and bubbles, with invisible joints, and clean canvases, if you choose the right composition.
When selecting an adhesive mixture, the kind of wallpaper foundation must be considered. Indeed, in terms of paper. KMC glue from Methylan, Moment, etc. works well for wallpaper. Special types of glue are made specifically for vinyl wallpaper, as stated on the packaging. With a specific adhesive designed for non-woven fabrics, non-woven can be glued.
The article "How to choose wallpaper glue" contains information on the various types of glue, how to prepare and apply them, and whether or not they are appropriate for a given type of wallpaper.
Choosing wallpaper depending on the room
You can select wallpaper for a particular room in your apartment as well as for the type of wall thanks to the wide selection available. For instance, smooth wallpaper works well with a flawless, smooth concrete wall base. Embossed volumetric that works with any kind of wall material. They effectively conceal minor indentations and bulges as well as slightly unraveling seams.
It is best to use cool colors, such as gray, blue, or green, in the rooms that face the south side buildings. By the way, their modest size in terms of both area and ceiling height visually enlarges the rooms in buildings built during the Khrushchev era.
Trellises in warm colors (beige with variations) or golden colors must be chosen when facing north. Dark, richly colored washable wallpaper works well in the hallway and corridor. Both light and dark colors look great in a living room. Here, keeping the interior’s overall style is the primary consideration when selecting trellises.
Calm undertones are ideal in the bedroom. Strong colors aggravate you and keep you from falling asleep. Wallpaper photos of the outdoors look good in this setting and serve their purpose well.
Wallpapering technology
When replacing the trellises themselves, a lot of apartment owners think they know how to glue wallpaper correctly. In fact, they won’t have any trouble applying basic single-layer paper wallpaper to the wall. But when you work with different kinds of wallpaper, things start to become unclear. How can I install wallpaper on my own?
The process of applying contemporary wallpaper to walls is a simple one that involves multiple connected steps. The following can be used to step-by-step represent it:
- the required amount of wallpaper is calculated;
- wallpaper and glue are purchased;
- the necessary tools and devices are prepared;
- select the location for gluing the first sheet of trellis;
- the pattern according to which the wallpaper should be glued is determined;
- wallpaper sheets are cut;
- the adhesive mass is prepared;
- trellises are glued to the wall.
Materials and tools
You’ll need supplies and a set of tools with accessories if you want to work continuously and with high quality.
Materials. To apply wall paste, you must purchase:
- wallpaper (non-woven, photo and glass wallpaper, paper, vinyl, etc.).d.);
- wallpaper glue (preferably specialized).
Equipment and accoutrements. Wallpaper application requires a minimal set of tools. However, to complete the task swiftly and artistically, you must have on hand:
- stepladder;
- plastic bucket – 2 pcs. (for glue and clean water);
- cuvette (bath) for glue;
- a roller 250 mm wide and a paint brush (brush for edging wallpaper and finishing corners) for applying adhesive;
- metal spatula for cutting wallpaper on the wall;
- plastic wallpaper spatula (wallpaper brush) for leveling thin wallpaper or trellises with a three-dimensional (relief) pattern;
- a plumb line or laser level to find the vertical;
- a ruler with a pencil for drawing a vertical starting line;
- construction knife (scissors) with replaceable blades for cutting wallpaper to length;
- roulette;
- rubber roller for pressing the wallpaper to the wall;
- rubber roller, narrow, cone-shaped, for smoothing seams (joints);
- foam sponge for removing glue from the front side of the wallpaper;
- napkin (towel) for hands;
- screwdriver for removing sockets and switches;
- electrical tape for working with electrical wires.
To hang wallpaper beautifully and evenly the first time, you need to make the correct markings of the walls. A laser level will cope with this task – with its help you will build a vertical line for the first canvas conveniently, easily and as accurately as possible, even if you have no experience in repair work. Make high-quality markings, and the work will be done quickly, and you won’t have to waste time and materials on remodeling. A good solution would be the Rokodil Ray Pro 3D self-leveling level. It projects 12 lines at 360 degrees, is designed for all types of work and provides clear markings – the error during construction does not exceed 0.2 mm/m. There is a plumb point for convenient transfer of marks from the floor to the ceiling. Green laser beam is visible in sunny weather, 5 brightness adjustment modes contribute to comfortable work. The battery autonomy of the tool is more than 10 hours; it can also be operated from the mains. The device has a 5-year warranty.
Buying wallpaper
There are two requirements that you must adhere to when purchasing wallpaper from a store:
- buy the required number of tubes;
- buy tubes of the same color.
Calculation of material quantity
There are two methods to determine how much wallpaper you need.
1. The height of the wall surface that needs to be pasted is measured; because of the non-removable plinth and baguette, the height of the wall surface and the ceiling may not match. The number of full trellis panels in a single roll is then calculated by dividing the roll’s length (10 m) by the measurement.
The perimeter is then calculated in meters by measuring the length of each wall and adding the measurement results. The resultant figure is divided by the wallpaper tube’s width (0.53 m, 1.06 m) and the quantity of sheets it contains. The following formula can be used to write the measurements:
T is equal to P/L x H/K.
- T – number of wallpaper tubes, pcs.
- P is the length of the perimeter of the walls, in m.
- L – width of the wallpaper tube (0.53 m or 1.06 m).
- H – height of the wall surface to be pasted (length of the wallpaper sheet to be pasted).
- K – length of wallpaper roll (10 m, 15 m and 25 m).
Attention: When determining how much wallpaper to purchase, expert finishers advise against factoring in windows and doors.
The outcome has to be rounded up, and one or two wallpaper tubes matching the color should be added for reserve (repairing damaged trellis sheets on the wall) and unforeseen flaws.
2. After measuring the length of the wall’s perimeter, the necessary quantity of wallpaper is taken from the table that has been prepared below.
Take note: For every 6 tubes, add 1 extra roll of wallpaper in all calculations if the pattern’s height (rapport) exceeds 0.6 cm.
It already accounts for all the subtleties involved in figuring out how much wallpaper is needed, but it ignores pattern modification.
Wallpaper requirements
Machines that produce wallpaper are loaded with paint for a particular batch. Refilling could cause a tonality disruption. In contrast, the difference in shade will be readily apparent on the wall even though you might not be able to see it at a retail location.
Trellises from the same production batch, the same production date, and the same article number are therefore required when purchasing them. The liner, or label, that is wrapped around each wallpaper tube and is visible in the picture is where you can see this information. It has been demonstrated through practice that many people overlook this. The outcome is strikingly visible on the walls, where the trellises’ various tones are contrasted.
Buying glue
The adhesive mass is bought in accordance with the kind of wallpaper that is bought. It is simple to calculate how many packs (containers) of wallpaper glue there are because the packaging shows how much is used in rolls that are 10 meters long and 0.53 meters wide.
Adjustments are made to the amount consumed if the wallpaper comes in different sizes. The quantity of trellises purchased as a whole is divided by the quantity consumed (in rolls) to determine the number of packages.
Where to start gluing
It does not matter where you start gluing wallpaper in the room; you can start from a door, window, corner, or even the middle of the wall (the main thing here is that the first piece should be glued strictly vertically), according to all recommendations for starting work on decorating walls with trellises. This advice isn’t totally accurate, though. Paper wallpaper, particularly single-layer (simplex) wallpaper, should be glued in various directions and from the window to hide the seams.
Determining the pasting scheme
Two pasting schemes are recommended by experts, depending on the type of wallpaper. The diagram shows how to apply paper wallpaper using glue. Here, the work begins at the window and moves in various directions.
For other kinds of trellises, we can work in a circle where the beginning and end meet, as well as using the option depicted in the diagram. In this instance, work can begin at:
- windows (following long-standing traditions);
- doors – the frame serves as a guide (replaces the vertical line);
- angle – in this case, using a plumb line, a vertical line is drawn from which work will be carried out;
- a vertical line drawn on the wall in any randomly selected place.
Step-by-step instruction
Wall decals can be applied by you alone, without the help of experts. You have to follow the instructions strictly in order to accomplish this.
- Using a plumb line with a pencil, draw a vertical line on the wall from which work will begin.
- The height of the wall to be pasted is measured and the first sheet of wallpaper is cut to size. Experts advise non-professionals to make an allowance of 10 cm, although those with even minimal experience working with trellises cut them immediately to size.
- The remaining panels are cut, combining the pattern on the floor, and not on the wall, as some authors of works on this topic recommend. Tapestries without a pattern are simply cut to size.
- The glue is diluted according to the instructions printed on the package.
- The adhesive mass is applied to the wallpaper (on the wall in the case of non-woven wallpaper) with a roller or a special brush. The edges are coated with a brush. First, spread the first (any) half (a little more than half) and fold it in half. The fold should not be fixed. Then the second half is spread and also folded in half (the correct folding method is shown in Fig. below).
Until the impregnation process is finished—the approximate duration is indicated in the table below—the folded wallpaper is maintained in this condition.
Wallpaper type | Time for impregnation, min. |
---|---|
Paper | 5 |
Double-layer paper: | |
dense | 7-8 |
very dense | 10 |
Vinyl | 8-10 |
- The upper half of the wallpaper sheet is opened and pasted on the wall (the lower part remains folded all this time). You need to orient yourself not by the ceiling, but by the drawn vertical line (if the upper half is glued correctly, the second half will easily follow the drawn line).
Be aware that cutting wallpaper with an overlap leaves a 4-6 cm margin at the top of the wall.
Using a wallpaper roller (plastic spatula), smooth the wallpaper from top to bottom and from the center to the edges (see photo).
- The second half of the panel is revealed and also glued to the wall.
- The overlaps at the top and bottom are cut with a knife using a metal spatula.
- The second and subsequent sheets are glued in the same way, according to the accepted scheme.
Although the suggestions made are thought to be general, they may need to be modified for a particular kind of wallpaper. You can find more specific details on our website, where each kind of wallpaper is associated with a different piece of art.
How to make joints invisible
Making sure the joint stays invisible throughout the process is crucial. Three factors can lead to errors:
- the consistency of the glue is incorrect (more liquid than required), as a result of which in some places the edge of the wallpaper bubbles (falls behind);
- wallpaper, by its nature, stretches under the influence of moisture from the adhesive mass, and when dry, contracts, forming a visible butt seam;
- an error was made when aligning the wallpaper – the sheets were glued overlapping.
Using a specialized narrow wallpaper roller, the joint is rolled to solve the issue. In the event that a mistake is found after the trellis has dried, a specific corrective paint is applied to the visible seam.
Ten hours after the job is finished, the areas where the overlapped pasting was done with a construction knife and a metal ruler are cut (the wallpaper has shrunk, but the glue hasn’t dried completely, allowing you to remove both the upper and lower pieces of the cut trellis).
How to hang wallpaper in corners correctly
Here are a few secrets that will help you finish the task quickly and effectively.
- You cannot glue a whole sheet on a corner due to a possible violation of its geometry, as a result of which the vertical line at the second part of the wallpaper disappears.
- Wallpaper in the corners is always cut off. On the second wall you need to leave 2-3 cm. The next sheet is glued onto the left overlapping strip. Then, using a knife with removable blades and a metal ruler, a continuous cut is made in the middle of the seam. Strips of wallpaper from both the bottom and top are removed, and the seam is rolled with a narrow roller. If you wish, you can even choose a drawing.
- External corners are covered using a similar technology.
How to glue near windows and doors
When wallpapering walls, the biggest annoyance arises when you run into obstructions. By using the technology of adhering trellises to doors and windows, you can prevent problems. Using the following algorithm, you can glue the trellises close to the doorway:
- wallpaper is glued to the wall over the doorway;
- the pasted sheet is joined to the previous one;
- The wallpaper is pressed tightly against the wall with a roller;
- scissors make a diagonal cut of the wallpaper towards the upper corner of the door casing;
- the wallpaper is rolled tightly to the side and top trim;
- the strongly protruding part of the wallpaper is trimmed with scissors;
- Using a metal spatula, the left strip of wallpaper is placed under the platband.
Attention: trimming is done with a knife and a metal spatula if the trim is attached to the wall tightly and wallpaper cannot be placed underneath it.
It is far simpler to glue wallpaper next to a window because traditional technology is used to adhere the wallpaper to the wall. Once they are completely dry, use a knife to trim off the unnecessary portion of the trellis along the window’s edge.
FAQ
At what temperature to glue wallpaper
According to many recommendations, wallpaper should be adhered to when the temperature is between 23 and 25°C. That temperature range is only achievable in the summer, though. Working in such conditions is not permitted during the winter, when heating is required (winter temperatures in apartments in most Russian cities range from 18 to 20°C).
What temperature is suitable for wallpapering walls? Considering this, trellis and glue manufacturers advise completing work at a temperature between 10 and 25 degrees Celsius. Therefore, it is not advised to glue wallpaper in winter in unheated rooms (dacha, veranda).
When can you open windows after pasting?
Apartment owners, impatient, are rushing to cover up the glue and wallpaper odors. Open windows, however, let in drafts. Additionally, the glue dries unevenly and quickly in drafts, which prevents the adhesive mass from having enough time to form the required adhesion to the wall. As a result, the wallpaper is peeling off or the seams are breaking.
When will you be able to open the windows? After the pasted wallpaper has dried completely, which should happen in one to three days, you can open the windows (the instructions printed on the glue package usually indicate the complete drying time). It is preferable to extend the deadline by one day for insurance purposes.
What to do if the wallpaper bubbles
In reality, small technological infractions frequently result in the formation of bubbles and air cavities on the surface of glued walls—even among skilled finishers. Not only is this ugly, but it could also serve as a haven for mold and mildew. How can bubbles on wallpaper be removed?
Our recommendations can vary based on the size of the lagging area.
If there are very large air cavities, start by re-gluing the canvas. Every effort made to resolve the issue without removing the wallpaper from the wall will be apparent.
Second, re-gluing plain trellises is preferable when there are medium pockets because the cut mark will be very visible. In the center of the resulting cavity, a construction knife is used to cut wallpaper with a pattern. Using a spatula to carefully remove the edges from the wall, a brush is then used to apply the adhesive mass into the created space. The dry surface does not have to be completely covered.
When the cut seam is firmly compressed, you can use a dry cloth to distribute the glue. After letting the trellis’ base soak in glue for five to ten minutes, roll the lagging area with a wallpaper roller to get rid of extra mites and air. It should be kept in mind that paper wallpaper shrinks in size after drying and stretches due to the glue. As a result, the cut’s edges should overlap. End-to-end for vinyl and non-woven wallpapers.
Thirdly, a syringe is used to remove tiny bubbles. The thickness of the glue determines the size of the needle; the thicker the glue, the thicker the needle. From the edges to the center, the bubble is punctured at an angle of roughly 30 degrees with respect to the wall.
By using this puncture pattern, you can smooth the problematic area and cover the entire loose surface of the wallpaper by releasing excess adhesive mass through the punctures. Large wrinkles must be smoothed out if they appear. Little creases will naturally go away when the glue dries.
What to do if the wallpaper is see-through
There is only one solution for translucent wallpaper after it has fully dried: redoing the original work. Therefore, it’s imperative to attempt to avoid this headache during the planning stage:
- prime the walls with a special primer (as a last resort, whitewash them with water-based paint);
- buy thick trellises;
- check medium and thin wallpaper for transparency – apply a piece of sheet to a bright spot and evaluate the degree of density.
How long does it take for wallpaper to dry?
There won’t be a definitive response from anyone to this query. This case involves numerous variables. Additionally, the kind of wallpaper, the amount of adhesive used, the room’s temperature, the humidity of the air, etc. Maximum spread: twelve to seventy-two hours.
The longest-drying non-woven wallpapers are duplex and paper-based, sometimes taking up to three days. Vinyl wallpaper takes about 48 hours to fully dry, while non-woven wallpaper on a different substrate—not paper—takes about a day.
By pressing your palm up against the wallpaper, you can tell how well the pasted wall has dried. You still need to wait even if you feel warm and the wall is completely dry and chilly. We mention in passing that using heating devices to accelerate the drying process is strictly prohibited.
How to glue meter-long wallpaper alone
There are no unique methods for adhering meter-long wallpaper other than what is mentioned in the wallpapering instructions above.
Some tips from the professionals
You can accomplish high-quality work by consulting with experts who have a great deal of experience.
- Before starting work, the room where the work is planned is ventilated and then tightly closed for a day.
- It is better to dismantle the plinth – it can be easily removed (gluing the trellises will become faster and easier). In order not to look for the dowel holes under the wallpaper later, self-tapping screws are screwed back into them.
- It is better to cover the floor with cardboard or newsprint, but not with plastic film (on the film, glue easily gets under the wallpaper when coating the edges of the sheet, as a result of which it stains them).
- Use a stepladder. The table and trestles often leave marks on the papered walls when moving to another place. In addition, it is more difficult to start the bottom of the wallpaper for them.
- Use specialized wallpaper glue – universal adhesive mass holds trellises on the wall worse.
- Do not deliver a spool in the corners-glue overlapping (1-2 cm), and then cut with a knife, forming a seam.
- Constantly wipe (wash) hands.
- Do not correct the uneven cut of the wallpaper on the top and bottom of the walls. Below the error can be hidden with a baseboard, at the top with a frieze or baguette.
Step | Description |
1. Prepare the Walls | Clean the walls, remove old wallpaper, fill holes, and sand for a smooth surface. |
2. Measure and Cut | Measure the wall height and cut wallpaper strips, adding extra for trimming. |
3. Apply Paste | Use a roller to evenly apply paste to the back of the wallpaper. |
4. Hang the Wallpaper | Start at the top, align with a plumb line, and smooth down to avoid bubbles. |
5. Trim the Edges | Use a sharp knife to trim excess wallpaper at the edges and corners. |
6. Smooth Out | Gently smooth the wallpaper with a brush or sponge to remove air bubbles and ensure good adhesion. |
When done correctly, hanging wallpaper yourself can be a simple and satisfying project. First things first, give your walls a thorough cleaning, smoothing, and priming (if needed). This gives your wallpaper a strong base and improves its adhesion.
Take your time when precisely measuring and cutting the wallpaper. You’ll avoid squandering material and matching patterns by doing this. To avoid bubbles and peeling, it is important to apply paste evenly, covering the entire back of the wallpaper.
Work methodically from top to bottom when hanging the wallpaper, smoothing out any wrinkles and air bubbles with a smoothing tool. A clean finish can be achieved by slightly overlocking seams and trimming extra material at the edges. Don’t rush; patience is essential for a polished finish.
Never forget to give the room enough ventilation and time to dry properly. This guarantees that the wallpaper sticks correctly and that any residual paste smell goes away. You can create a gorgeously wallpapered room that gives your place personality and charm by using these tips.