Selecting the appropriate technique for bonding polycarbonate sheets to a metal frame can guarantee longevity and a snug fit for your building or remodeling project. Because of its strength, low weight, and impact resistance, polycarbonate is a popular material for outdoor enclosures, skylights, and greenhouse roofs.
Self-drilling screws with EPDM washers are one of the best methods for fastening polycarbonate to a metal frame. These screws are made to penetrate both types of material without breaking or harming polycarbonate. A secure attachment and prevention of leaks are ensured by the EPDM washers, which create a watertight seal around the screw head. This simple method works well for both professionals and do-it-yourselfers.
Using H profiles, or specialized polycarbonate profiles, is another trustworthy technique. These profiles are made to slide onto the metal frame by fitting over the edges of the polycarbonate sheets. They lessen the possibility of the sheet cracking or warping over time by helping to equally distribute stress throughout the sheet in addition to offering a secure attachment. This method works especially well for larger installations where it’s important to preserve structural integrity.
Polycarbonate glazing tape is a workable option for people seeking a more adaptable installation method. The purpose of this double-sided adhesive tape is to firmly attach polycarbonate sheets to metal frames. It is perfect for projects where aesthetics and ease of installation are important because it forms a robust, weather-resistant seal without the need for drilling or fasteners.
Regardless of the approach you take, making sure your polycarbonate panels are installed correctly is essential to maximizing their lifespan and functionality. To prevent potential problems like buckling or water infiltration, be sure to abide by the manufacturer’s recommendations regarding fastener placement, spacing, and thermal expansion. Polycarbonate can be easily and successfully attached to a metal frame with the correct technique, offering years of dependable use in a variety of building and remodeling applications.
- Features of polycarbonate
- External side
- Fasteners
- Washers and screws
- Profile
- Mounting methods
- Installation methods
- Distance between fasteners
- Features of fastening sheets
- Correct screwing of sheets
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Features of polycarbonate
The material is made up of plates with multiple sheets that are joined together by jumpers to form a cellular structure. These jumpers are what give the sheets their high strength and stiffness in the ribs. The slab’s layers—which can have two or four—ensure its thermal insulation qualities. Nearly 90% of light is transmitted by the material, which is also flexible, stronger than glass, and highly resistant to damage. Excellent for forming arches and commonly utilized in greenhouse construction.
A film is applied to every sheet to shield it from the damaging effects of UV light. In addition, a selective coating on the front portion transmits only a specific spectrum of light. This plastic is intended exclusively for greenhouses.
You must determine which of the three options you are working with in order to determine which side of the greenhouse to place polycarbonate:
- Honeycomb plates have high reflective characteristics. Aluminum coating is used as a coating, creating a shadow and protecting against the greenhouse effect. Have a green, blue or silver tint.
- A material that transmits the optimal spectrum for plant growth is considered the best for greenhouses. It prevents the penetration of harmful radiation. It is very important to place it on the correct side, otherwise the climate for plants will be disastrous, and the material itself will begin to deteriorate due to the lack of ultraviolet protection.
- Plates coated with polarizing mica particles. Reflects only infrared radiation and transmits the main stream. Provides good lighting, but heats the air inside less, ensuring constant climate control in summer. The leaves have a golden or pearlescent color.
How to correctly affix polycarbonate to a greenhouse:
- You need to take a closer look at the sheets themselves. They have a protective film of different colors – a blue film on the top side, a white or transparent one on the bottom.
- This film must be removed before installation or after installation. There are models of material with the same film on both sides.
- This means that the protective layer is the same on both sides, so the sheets can be installed on either side.
External side
Because of the slabs’ sensitivity to UV light, there are stringent guidelines for polycarbonate installation. Plastic can be used for several years if installed incorrectly, but high-quality material can be used for more than 15 years if installed correctly.
To protect the material, a transparent film is applied to the outside of the slabs. High-quality polycarbonate models can block up to 99% of UV radiation, while low-cost, inferior models can only block up to 70%. Slabs are sometimes covered in smoky, milky tones to conceal the damage. Nevertheless, it’s best to get premium plastic right away to avoid needless issues.
Typical boards are made of PVC film. It’s totally apparent. When you buy polycarbonate, you can learn how to attach it. It is necessary that you seek professional assistance or do it on your own, keeping an eye out for the following external characteristics:
- the thickness of the honeycomb walls is measured with a caliper – on the outside they are 0.1 mm thicker;
- the film is harder and stiffer on the outside, a good specialist can determine it by touch.
Which side of the polycarbonate should be mounted facing the sun?
- If both sides are marked, it does not matter, since polycarbonate has two-sided protection.
- If only one side is marked, then it is this side that needs to be turned towards the sun.
It’s crucial to keep in mind that improper slab installation can cause slabs to break and wooden components to be destroyed.
Fasteners
Polycarbonate can be installed using a variety of tools, including washers, screws, and specialty designs. They are chosen with consideration for the intended use of the structure as well as the materials that went into making the frame.
Washers and screws
Polycarbonate can be fastened using a variety of fasteners. Popular sizes for screws are 19 to 50 mm for carpentry or galvanized. Their decision is influenced by the following elements:
- washer size – decorative models with a thickness of 3-15 mm, standard silicone models with a thickness of up to 5 mm;
- installation diagram – for wooden sheathing, fasteners are 50 mm, in fastenings without overlap, 19 mm self-tapping screws are used, with an overlap – 25 mm;
- thickness of the slabs – when using a window structure, the thickness of the side slabs is 6-8 mm, for the roof 10 mm, for a standard frame the thickness of the material is no more than 10 mm.
Use a universal hexagonal self-tapping screw with a drill bit at the end for the simpler techniques. intended for aluminum-framed buildings. Can be applied to wood as well, although the strength properties are lost. You can use regular carpenter screws on the other side.
A self-tapping screw or a screw with a sizable plastic washer is the only fastener suitable for all varieties of polycarbonate. Structures that are ornamental are made with screws and washers. Because of the centering sleeve, it is not appropriate for greenhouses. A snap-on split profile offers the easiest way to securely fasten sheets. After positioning the slabs on the mounted profile, an overlay film is used to secure them. Although bolts and nuts can also be used, they are less convenient to use because they require more labor and run the risk of damaging the slab if the nut is overtightened.
How to join polycarbonate to a frame made of metal:
- Experts recommend using fasteners with washers and plugs that have an O-ring and convex washers.
- They are recessed into the holes with a leg.
- The panel is pressed tightly, harmonious appearance, moisture does not get inside.
It is necessary to purchase self-tapping screws or other comparable components separately. Heat washers made of polycarbonate are transparent, stronger, and available in a variety of colors.
Polypropylene washers are made up of a seal, a plug, and a cap that come in various colors. They quickly fade and lose strength, and they are not UV protected. Not advised for use inside or on roofs with shadows. The cost is by far their greatest benefit.
Large areas and metal frames are the primary applications for metal washers. Don’t slacken; instead, use superior fastening. They have a concave shape, and a gasket is inserted into the mold and secured with screws or bolts. Gasket-equipped washers guarantee optimal tightness and keep moisture out of the fabric.
Plastic can be fastened indoors or under a canopy using self-tapping screws that come with a thin washer or gasket. In ideal circumstances, washers can be completely neglected. Make sure that, for outdoor structures, an extra gasket is worn underneath the washer.
Profile
Attaching sheets to the frame and to each other is made possible by the connecting profile.
The profile can range in thickness from 4 to 16 mm and is composed of the same sheet material.
Between the sheet and the profile, there is a 3 mm thermal gap.
Perforated or sealing tape is used during the installation process and is fastened to the ends.
After that, the plastic is put right into the profile.
The profile itself is available in various forms:
- connecting;
- one-piece;
- end;
- detachable.
While selecting the type of design, each option has unique qualities that need to be taken into consideration.
Profiles made of polycarbonate, aluminum, or plastic can be used to mount plates. The profile itself is written in Latin characters and has a distinct cross-section. Sealant can be used to keep plates inserted into the grate in place. However, this connection will be weak in high winds. Selecting a sealant of superior quality that maintains its strength and elasticity over time is crucial.
Remembering these key guidelines will help you attach polycarbonate to a greenhouse correctly:
- sealant is used only on the upper slopes;
- avoid any bending of the sheets when using thermal washers – this leads to the appearance of holes and loss of the tightness of the structure;
- arched structures are secured from below with perforated tape, which will protect against air escape, ruptures and damage to the sheets themselves;
- metal profile is used only for structures larger than 2 m;
- aluminum is a good sealant and is the base, rubber seals.
Mounting methods
Only monolithic or cellular slabs are used for greenhouses. While the latter are significantly lighter and have a structure more akin to glass, the former are more robust.
How to join polycarbonate to a greenhouse’s metal frame:
- Wet method. Glue, putties and sealants are used. The edges are pre-treated with putty, and then the frame is processed and the sheets are attached.
- Dry method. Seals, washers and screws are used. Holes are made for fasteners in the structure and sheets, the distance between them is 50 cm, the distance from the edge is 2 cm. All holes should be slightly larger than the fasteners as the plastic may expand.
Sealing tape or silicone must be applied to the layer-to-layer connection. This offers defense against the infiltration of moisture.
Installation methods
Plastic can be installed in two different ways:
- Laying on the profile.Suitable for long-term greenhouse use. You need to stock up on screws and profiles. The profile is laid and fastened to the base, the fastenings are tightened firmly, since they carry a large load. A sheet is placed, then the profile is fixed and proceed to the next sheet. At the end the ends are covered with aluminum.
- By point method. Self-tapping screws are used, which are screwed into the prepared holes in the frame, and then into the sheets. Oval shape of holes along the edge. Distance from edge 4 cm, distance between fasteners 40 cm. Be sure to lay the sheets evenly, use only thermal washers for self-tapping screws for tightness and close the ends at the end.
Distance between fasteners
Once you’ve figured out the correct way to attach polycarbonate to a wooden frame or profile, you just need to keep in mind a few basic guidelines regarding the spacing between the fasteners.
The type of lathing and the plastic’s thickness determine the pitch between the screws. Fasteners are spaced 40–50 mm apart on standard sheets that are 2.1 x 10 m and 8 mm in size. If thicker sheets are used, the pitch rises to 70 mm. The most ideal length, according to experts, is one-third of the distance between arches or slats.
How to join a wooden frame with polycarbonate:
- Basically, on pitched roofs of greenhouses, thickened beams are used for lathing. Sheets must be placed with a thermal gap, but not overlapping.
- The joint is treated with sealant and then covered with a frame.
- In this case, the fastener installation step must be increased by 20%, and the fastener placement points themselves are made in a checkerboard pattern.
Features of fastening sheets
You can move straight on to installation after determining which sheet version works best for your design, which side to lay the polycarbonate on, which fasteners to use, and what fastening technology to use. It is crucial to keep in mind that a number of factors could affect how good the outcome is. Adherence to all guidelines is essential when handling this material. This will enable the slabs’ lifespan to be increased.
There are specific ways that greenhouse structures fasten plastic.
Correct screwing of sheets
When installing screws, it’s imperative to follow the advice and guidelines provided by the plastics manufacturer. In this instance, the size, shape, and design of the washers utilized, as well as the fastener design, greatly influence the operation scheme:
- Silicone washer. Has increased dimensions, the simplest option. Soft, easily deformed, so it’s difficult to push through plastic.
- Reinforced washer. Made from PVC, can be tinted or transparent. There is a high risk of damaging the sheet during installation. Small thickness increases the risk of damage to the plastic.
- Regular washer. Made from thin rubber. Differs in ease of installation, disadvantages, as in the previous case.
- Self-tapping screw for cross bit. The most difficult mounting option. Under load, the fastener often tips over while screwing in, causing the plastic to break.
- Hex socket. Easier to screw in than self-tapping screws. During fastening, the self-tapping drill is evenly held and guided.
The plastic should be fixed in two stages when using cross-shaped screws. Drill a hole first, and then insert the self-tapping screw only after that.
We’ve already determined which side of the greenhouse the polycarbonate should be attached to. However, a common query is, "What is the most dependable installation option?" To prevent deterioration of the plastic, the task must be completed in multiple steps.
The attachment of cellular polycarbonate is as follows:
- Correctly lay the slab on the frame. The projection of the outermost sheet above the gable is at least 5 cm, and the second sheet extends beyond the support by at least 4 cm.
- At the joints, honeycomb panels are overlapped over the sheathing. The sheet is leveled, stretched and fixed with a clamp, then two fasteners are inserted on each side.
- The sheet is stretched and leveled. Fasteners are inserted on the walls.
- On the roof or arch, screws are inserted last.
- Self-tapping screws throughout the sheathing are not screwed in completely. There must be a gap of at least 0.5 mm. Honeycomb slabs are attached only with the cells in a vertical direction. This allows for better removal of condensation and avoids plastic bulging.
Sealant applied to the channels after the slabs are installed on the structure will stop condensation. An additional antiseptic is silicone.
Installing monolithic plastic has its own advantages. Because they are expensive and don’t require transparent panels, they aren’t often used for greenhouses. In essence, they are only placed where they can actually make an impact—on the roofs of greenhouses equipped with heat accumulators.
Installing these sheets can be done in two ways:
- Pressure pads are used. The edges are fixed using wooden planks and several self-tapping screws. Tape or silicone cord is placed on the edge before the sheet is pressed.
- Sheets are glued to a wooden sheathing. Basically, double-sided tape or a special silicone cord is used for gluing sheets (it fits into the grooves of the slats). This method is valid only for flat roofs with a slope of no more than 10 degrees.
- For a frame made of small cells, fastening is carried out with silicone and staples. To begin with, the sheet is fixed at the corners of the frame with self-tapping screws, and then staples with a rubber lining and Z-shaped staples are used. Fastening points and edges are sealed with plumbing silicone.
To ensure longevity and efficacy, attaching polycarbonate sheets to a metal frame requires careful thought. Using rubber washers and self-drilling screws is one of the best techniques. The rubber washers help to seal the holes, preventing water leakage and lowering the chance of corrosion over time, while the screws provide a strong attachment.
Using H-profiles, or polycarbonate-compatible profiles, is another trustworthy method. These profiles offer seamless finishing and structural support by fitting over the edges of the polycarbonate sheets. Additionally, they permit thermal expansion, which is essential in avoiding stress cracks brought on by variations in temperature.
Use tapes or adhesives that are compatible with polycarbonate for a more visually appealing solution. These products are designed especially to bond well to metal and polycarbonate surfaces. In situations where it’s important to conceal screws or profile visibility, adhesives provide a smooth, consistent look.
Regardless of the approach you take, installing your polycarbonate panels correctly is essential to guaranteeing their longevity and functionality. Before securing the sheets, make sure the metal frame is spotless, dry, and clear of any debris. For optimal thermal performance and structural integrity, adhere to the manufacturer’s recommendations regarding fastener placement and spacing.
Our guide, "The Best Ways to Attach Polycarbonate to a Metal Frame," delves into doable techniques that guarantee safe and long-lasting installations for your remodeling and building endeavors. We outline the benefits and drawbacks of every technique, from conventional screwing methods to sophisticated adhesive applications, and offer comprehensive guidance and professional advice to assist you in selecting the best course of action for your project. Whether you’re building a skylight, a greenhouse, or a roofing structure, our article aims to equip professionals and do-it-yourselfers with the knowledge needed to achieve sturdy and dependable metal and polycarbonate frame assemblies.