For your brick garage to last a long time and function properly, you must build, reinforce, insulate, and repair its walls. Despite their reputation for durability, brick walls need to be built properly to withstand weather and normal wear and tear.
To construct a brick garage wall, begin with a sturdy base. A solid foundation offers stability and guards against recurring structural problems. To support the weight of the bricks and the garage structure, make sure the foundation is level and sufficiently reinforced.
To increase durability, a brick garage wall’s structure must be strengthened. Techniques like buttress additions and the use of reinforcing bars, or rebars, inside the brickwork can accomplish this. Over time, these techniques help avoid cracks or collapses by distributing loads evenly.
In order to keep the interior at a comfortable temperature and stop energy loss, insulating a brick garage wall is crucial. It is possible to place insulating materials between the interior finish and the brick wall, such as mineral wool or foam boards. This lowers outside noise transmission while also increasing thermal efficiency.
A brick garage wall may eventually need to be repaired because of weathering, cracks, or other damage. Determine the extent of the damage first. Many times, small cracks can be fixed with mortar or specialty sealants. Seek expert advice for more extensive damage to guarantee correct restoration and structural integrity.
- Requirements for brick construction
- Brick requirements
- Necessary tools and materials for construction
- Step-by-step instructions for construction
- Strengthening
- Insulation
- Difficulties and possible errors during the work process
- Repair of cracks and other defects
- Advantages and disadvantages of brick walls
- Prices for masonry in the Russian Federation
- Video on the topic of the article
- Video on the topic
- Restoring the back wall of a garage
- DIY garage repair from A to Z. Budget inspection pit with dimensions.
- Insulation and waterproofing of the rear wall of the garage
- Insulation of OLD garage doors! My option in 3 HOURS!
- How to strengthen cinder walls in an old house. The walls began to crumble, cracks appeared.
- How to rebuild a brick wall in a garage
- Repairing a cracked brick wall. Strengthening the home
- Insulation of garage walls from the inside for a workshop. My workshop #2
Requirements for brick construction
SNiP 2.07.01-89 and 21-01-97 outline the fundamental specifications for garages. Things to think about when building brick walls:
- The distance between the walls of the garage and the boundaries of the site is 1 m, a car standing in front of the gate will not interfere with the passage of people. The distance to the central road is at least 5 m, so as not to create an obstacle to the movement of other vehicles.
- Distance from a residential private house to the box – 3 m. This is due to fire safety regulations.
- The distance from the wall to the fence is 1 m, so the building will not interfere with the neighbor’s property.
- The standard size of garage walls for one car is 3 * 6 m (gate length is at least 2.5 meters), wall height is from 1.8 to 2.2 m for a passenger car, for a truck this parameter depends on the size of the car. The most common sizes are 5 * 7 m, taking into account the location of shelves inside for tools, etc.
- If the box is planned to be made for 2 cars, the width of the garage is doubled; it is prohibited to install a partition inside. If in the future you plan to purchase a larger car, this point must be taken into account when planning the construction.
- The width of the wall should be at least 0.8 m greater than the width of the machine.
- The optimal wall length is 1.5 times longer than the car.
- If the garage is an extension to the house, the wall passing between them must be made of non-combustible materials.
- Brick walls are heavy; underneath them there must be a strong strip or monolithic concrete foundation.
- The wall is placed on a 20 cm high concrete base, a waterproofing material must be laid before the first row of masonry. Most often, roofing felt is used in 2 layers with joint insulation (melting or bitumen mastic).
- During construction, the geometry of the masonry is strictly observed, work begins from the corners, and rises 4 rows in height. It is not recommended to build walls at one time, since the mortar will not withstand the weight. 1-1.2 m of the structure is raised per day.
- For garages, masonry in 1 or 1.5 bricks, a multi-row dressing system is used.
- On top of the rough masonry, at the request of the owners of the site (for example, if it is necessary to create a harmonious composition with the house), facing bricks are laid to match the color of the main building on the site. Thickness, the presence of insulation and cladding – depend on weather conditions and wind strength at the construction site. A wall of 1 brick will withstand a strong wind of up to 17 m / s and frost up to -22 degrees. 1.5 bricks can withstand hurricane winds up to 45 m/s and below -22 degrees.
- The standard thickness of seams is 10 mm horizontally, 12 mm vertically.
- It is prohibited to create holes and openings after the wall has been erected. For ventilation pipes, 2 holes are planned in the masonry, which are formed during the construction process on opposite walls.
Skilled builders advise installing two ventilation windows with grilles on the bottom of opposing walls to quickly remove settling exhaust gases from the garage.
Brick requirements
Apply the following for building brick walls:
- Red ceramic brick. Silicate is not suitable due to its high hygroscopicity and susceptibility to fire. If facing material is used, red clinker brick is the ideal option. As a rule, the material for the exterior decoration of a garage is the same as the material for cladding a residential building.
- It is recommended to use solid brick for unheated garages in central Russia and the north. For southern regions, where the appearance of frost on walls is a rare occurrence, porous, lightweight material is suitable.
- Grade from M100 and higher, depending on the severity of the entire structure. If you plan to have a full roof, high walls or a second floor, then from M200.
- Frost resistance index from F75.
Porous and hollow materials are acceptable in cold climates if you intend to line the walls with brick because they not only keep heat well but also extract toxic fumes from the space.
We’ll walk you through every step of creating, fortifying, insulating, and maintaining brick garage walls in this post. We’ll cover helpful hints and detailed instructions, from setting the groundwork to bolstering weak areas. Find out which insulation materials work best for you and how to fix common problems like water damage and cracks. Whether you’re building a new garage from the ground up or remodeling an old one, this guide will show you how to build a strong, weather-resistant brick wall that improves insulation efficiency and durability.
Necessary tools and materials for construction
You will also need mortar and water in addition to the primary material, which is brick. Connective the mixture is a 1:4 ratio of sand to cement (preferably M400), diluted with water to create a dense consistency that prevents the sand from draining from the bricks. Bricks must be wetted with water prior to laying.
Brick garage walls should ideally be started outside during above-freezing temperatures to allow the mortar to set and ensure long-lasting masonry. To prevent the bricks from absorbing moisture from the mortar, they are wetted with water prior to installation.
What equipment is required:
- putty knife;
- Master OK;
- trowel;
- concrete mixer or solution container;
- shovel;
- building level;
- wooden corner;
- beacons, mooring line;
- double sided hammer.
Step-by-step instructions for construction
Ordering:
- On a waterproofed base, beacons are placed around the perimeter of the building, observing the dimensions according to the design and marking the location of the doorways. A mooring line stretches between them.
- Start laying from a corner on a dry. The first 4 rows are raised in accordance with the order, compliance with the geometric parameters is checked. For accuracy, threads can be stretched diagonally between the corners so that they meet in the center of the building.
- The masonry between the corners is also carried out in order, along the mooring thread, in compliance with the exact geometric parameters.
- After the 4th row is finished, reinforcement mesh or reinforcement rods are laid on top of it in the seam. Since the masonry is thin (1-1.5 bricks), reinforcement is necessary along the entire perimeter, otherwise the wall may not withstand the load.
- Door and window openings are formed with whole bricks. The upper part is reinforced with a concrete or metal beam, on top of which the masonry continues in the same way as before.
There is room reserved for floor beams in the top row. It is recommended to leave a gap of 2-3 cm between the roof and the finishing bricks to account for structural shrinkage. Roofing felt or other soft material is inserted into these openings.
In the event that wall cladding is not planned, jointing is used to create the seams; the mortar should leave 0.5–1 cm around the brick edge on horizontal surfaces.
The seams are filled with a high-fat solution once they have dried. Process:
- Scoop the joint mixture onto a wide spatula.
- Use a thin trowel to push the mortar into the seams, first vertically, then horizontally. Form an even line.
How to join rough masonry brick and cladding:
- If it was not initially planned to cover the walls with cladding, thin perforated metal plates are chosen to form flexible connections. They are bent in an L-shape, and holes are formed in the rough masonry using a puncher at a distance of 1-1.5 meters in every 4-5 rows. A 6 cm anchor is inserted into the top hole on the perforated plate. Afterwards it is driven into the hole and holds the plate at the desired level.
- If the cladding was planned, when forming the rough masonry, metal rods were installed in the seams, with the free side facing outward. During the process of laying facing bricks, these bonds fall into the seams and connect the walls.
The face brick-laying procedure:
- also starts from the corner, checking the compliance of the geometric parameters;
- markings are made, the mooring line is pulled;
- the masonry from the corners rises by 4-5 rows, depending on the location of the ties;
- intermediate rows are laid out in order, observing geometry;
- every 4-5 rows reinforcement is made;
- Finally, the seams are unstitched using the technology described above.
You can apply water-based, frost-resistant paint to the joints between brick rows to further prevent leaks.
Facing is an optional process that gives the building a lovely appearance and keeps the masonry from freezing. Working with cladding comes at a much higher cost.
Strengthening
After the garage has been operating for two years and the walls have completely shrunk, further measures to reinforce the walls must be created. After going through this process, the masonry may occasionally develop cracks that cause the structure to collapse, leave the room cold, and let moisture through.
There are numerous approaches to avert these outcomes:
- Reinforcing the opening. The part most susceptible to destruction is the wall on which the gate is held. If there are no cracks in the surface, a metal frame is installed on fastenings. The opening along the edges is protected with a channel, metal anchors are installed every 20 cm.
- Reinforced concrete jacket. Used for garage walls that are already covered with cracks and are a real threat of collapse. To create, you will need reinforcing mesh and cement mortar. The mesh is attached along the entire perimeter of the walls, then it is covered with 1.5-2.5 cm of solution. The concrete layer may be larger, but special equipment will be required to apply it.
- Screed. Used if the verticality of the walls is broken during the construction process or after shrinkage. For implementation, reinforcement rods (diameter 25-30 mm), couplings and end fastening nuts are used. A groove 4 cm deep is drilled in the wall at the level of the ceilings along the perimeter, couplings are attached, and a rod is placed inside. It is recommended to heat the cords with an autogen before starting tightening. Then tighten it, secure it with nuts, and fill the grooves with polyurethane foam. Fasteners are covered with cement mortar. To form the encircling reinforcement, metal plates are also used, which are attached to bolts and connected to each other with lanyards. At the corners they are connected to channels. This belt is considered tougher and more reliable.
- Steel clips. Used when it is planned to build a superstructure over the garage. To implement this you will need: metal vertical posts, round fittings or strips of metal. The racks are fixed at a distance of 1.5 m from each other, reinforcement or strips are stretched between them (they are attached to the racks and to the wall in the center of each section). To make the fixation more reliable, use cement mortar for the posts and lintels.
Reinforcing mesh or rods placed inside horizontal joints are the only ways to strengthen masonry while it is being built.
Insulation
In several situations, installing thermal protection in the garage is essential.
- if the room is used not only for storing a car, but also as a storage room, workshop, etc.;
- if the structure is in the region with cold winters;
- according to personal preferences of the owners, for better safety of the car.
Materials that are used to insulate the garage walls include:
- Mineral wool. More precisely, mineral wool plates, their size depends on the requirements of the customer and manufacturer. Depending on the type of material, waterproofing may be required. Thermal conductivity of mineral wool 0.035-0.04 W/m K.
- Foam polystyrene. It has good thermal conductivity, moisture resistant, soundproofing material, refractory varieties are chosen for purchase. Thermal conductivity 0.035-0.04 W/m K.
- Poliuretan foam. Due to its form, reliably blocks all cracks and pores of brick, does not miss moisture. Thermal conductivity 0.019-0.028 W/m to.
- Thermal insulating plaster. It contains particles of polystyrene foam, or vermiculite, sawdust.
Both the exterior and interior surfaces of the walls are covered in insulation. If you choose to insulate the garage’s interior wall from the inside, you will need to account for the insulation’s thickness when determining the garage’s dimensions. It "eats" up to 5 to 7 cm of space.
Methods for insulating a garage from the interior or exterior:
- Expanded polystyrene slabs are attached with special glue or dowel nails with round blockers. The glue is applied to the back side of the slab and pressed against the facade. To install the dowel, drill a hole in the slab and the wall at the same time, then drive the fasteners into it.
- Mineral wool can be laid inside, between the outer wall and the rough. Or mount the sheathing, insert sheets of insulation into it and cover everything with facing material (siding, decorative panels, etc.).
- Thermal insulating plaster is usually applied indoors. The method of covering walls is the same as when applying standard finishing material. The ratio of mixture and water is indicated on the packaging.
The use of multiple insulation techniques, such as plaster and mineral wool, has proven beneficial.
Difficulties and possible errors during the work process
Things to be mindful of:
- Accuracy of geometry when forming masonry. This is especially true for novice builders; it is recommended to check each row of masonry so that any unevenness can be corrected before the mortar hardens. To check, use a two-meter ruler. If the wall lies unevenly, it will not be able to withstand the load of its own weight and the severity of the ceilings, which leads to cracks and structural failure.
- Maintaining the order is necessary so that the solution is evenly distributed over the surface of the brick. It is designed to hold materials together and will not be able to support the heavy weight of the garage. Therefore, when building a wall, each row is shifted by ½ or ½ brick, depending on the type of masonry.
- Walls must be waterproofed. To do this, roll materials are used between the base and the first row, impregnation or coating inside and outside the building. Brick is porous, hygroscopic, and when it gets in contact with moisture, it absorbs it. After evaporation, the material dries out, cracks and chips appear, and the wall collapses.
- To keep the car in excellent condition, the garage is insulated. In addition, the room can be used for other purposes (storage, workshop) if the temperature inside is comfortable.
- The thickness of the walls must correspond to the climatic conditions. There are known cases when a structure collapsed due to gusts of wind.
- For strengthening, it is mandatory to reinforce the masonry.
The most frequent error is using too little mortar when laying bricks in rows. Either the builders’ inexperience or their carelessness and cost-cutting are to blame.
The element only needs to be lightly tapped in the desired direction with a double-sided hammer to take its place in the row; if the brick is installed for an extended period of time, the mortar will be squeezed out and nearly none will remain in the seam. When saving, the structure’s strength drastically declines because there are still gaps in the masonry that allow cold air to enter.
Repair of cracks and other defects
To prevent the issue from happening again, the causes of the cracks must be determined before beginning repairs. Usually, the process of strengthening the walls—which was previously mentioned—assists in removing the cause.
Potential causes:
- incorrect masonry construction technology, weight redistribution occurred unevenly;
- use of low-quality building materials;
- shrinkage of the garage, which led to deformation of the building;
- lack or poor quality waterproofing;
- frosts, unfavorable climatic conditions;
- human factor (saving solution, inexperience).
Stages of garage wall repair:
- If cracks have formed in the seams, the mortar has crumbled and voids have appeared, you need to clean this area with a stiff brush and treat it with a primer. After the gap is filled with a small amount of solution, reinforcement is placed inside with pressure. Finally, the solution is tightly hammered into the gap and leveled.
- Small cracks in the wall just need to be cleaned and sealed tightly with mortar.
- Explore large cracks, find the beginning and end. Install metal brackets in the upper and lower parts (drill holes at a distance of 6-10 cm from the edge of the crack, drive in dowels with metal strips); if the split is long, you can make several more ties along the entire length. Clean and prime the cracks, pack them tightly with the solution, you can use a syringe for this.
Seal the crack with silicone or foam sealant if it is deep and wide.
Advantages and disadvantages of brick walls
Benefits of brick garage walls:
- strength – can withstand strong gusts of wind, bad weather, frost, if the requirements are met, safely withstands shrinkage;
- versatility – suitable for any shape of building, for any finish, insulation, waterproofing;
- aesthetic appearance – looks beautiful, even without finishing;
- environmental friendliness – safe, natural, environmentally friendly material;
- fire safety – brick is a non-flammable material, which is especially important for garages;
- good sound insulation;
- porous – allows air to pass through, “breathes”, a kind of natural ventilation;
- durability – according to GOST, the service life of the building is 100-150 years.
Minuses:
- hygroscopicity – absorbs moisture, high-quality waterproofing is necessary;
- price – the material is not cheap, but the price is justified by the properties.
Prices for masonry in the Russian Federation
Brick garage wall construction costs are influenced by the type of masonry, finishing, and insulation used in the design. The quantity of work and the construction team’s experience are also important factors. The majority of the time, turnkey construction is used for garage construction.
Brick garage construction, typical costs in the Russian Federation:
Name of works | Moscow and Moscow Region, rub/m2 | St. Petersburg and Leningrad Region, rub/m2 | Krasnodar region, rub/m2 | Kazan, rub/m2 |
Turnkey construction of a brick garage | from 16000 | from 15000 | from 10000 | from 13000 |
Video on the topic of the article
Building a brick garage: instructional video
How to Build a Brick Garage Wall | Start with a solid foundation. Lay bricks in a staggered pattern, ensuring proper mortar between each brick. Use a level to keep rows straight and plumb. Reinforce with steel rods if needed. |
How to Strengthen a Brick Garage Wall | Reinforce with steel bars or mesh. Apply a coat of masonry sealer to prevent moisture damage. Consider adding buttresses or additional support structures if the wall shows signs of bowing. |
How to Insulate a Brick Garage Wall | Apply a layer of insulation board to the interior of the wall. Seal gaps with expanding foam or mortar. For better insulation, consider adding a cavity wall with an insulating layer between the bricks. |
How to Repair a Brick Garage Wall | Replace damaged bricks and repoint mortar joints. Clean the wall of any loose debris and ensure the surface is dry before applying new mortar. For severe damage, consider rebuilding sections of the wall. |
To guarantee durability and functionality, brick garage walls need to be carefully built, strengthened, insulated, and repaired. First things first, using high-quality bricks and mortar during construction is essential. A strong foundation is created by evenly spacing out each brick and making sure the mortar joints are solid. Paying close attention to details in the first build reduces problems later on.
In order to strengthen existing brick walls, any structural weaknesses must be determined. The wall’s integrity can be strengthened by adding reinforcement, such as steel rods or braces, particularly in locations where soil movement or seismic activity is likely to occur. It is ensured that reinforcement techniques are suitable for the particular garage structure by consulting with a structural engineer.
Brick garage wall insulation increases comfort and energy efficiency. Spray foam and foam board insulation are two options that may work well for a garage, depending on the climate and usage. Maintaining constant interior temperatures and lowering energy expenses can be achieved by properly installing insulation, being mindful of gaps, and making sure the barrier is continuous.
Cracks, efflorescence, and loose bricks are common problems that can be fixed by repairing brick garage walls. While larger cracks may require professional assessment to stop further damage, smaller cracks can be filled with mortar. Using a brush and water to remove efflorescence and then sealing the wall helps keep it looking good and lasting for a long time.