The best way and how to properly insulate the basement of a house from the outside with your own hands?

In order to keep your house cozy and energy-efficient, insulation from the outside is essential. In addition to lowering energy costs and shielding your house from moisture-related problems, proper insulation can stop heat loss. You can ensure that the job is completed to your standards and save money by taking on the work yourself.

It’s important to comprehend the fundamentals of exterior basement insulation before getting started. This entails excavating your basement in order to apply insulation materials to the exterior walls. Even though it might seem difficult, many homeowners can complete this task if they have the correct resources and advice.

Selecting the appropriate insulation material is a crucial step in the procedure. Materials with good insulating qualities and durability, such as rigid foam boards, are in demand. These boards are a great option for basement insulation because they are moisture-resistant and offer a strong barrier against the cold.

Preparing the basement walls comes next, after you’ve chosen your materials. This entails sanitizing the surface and performing any required maintenance to guarantee a seamless application of insulation. To guarantee that the insulation adheres properly and operates as efficiently as possible, preparation is essential.

Attaching the rigid foam boards to your basement’s exterior walls is the first step in applying insulation. You can accomplish this with mechanical fasteners or special adhesive, based on your choice and the particulars of your basement. It’s crucial to install carefully to prevent gaps that can lessen the insulation’s effectiveness.

It’s crucial to cover the insulation once it’s installed with an appropriate finish, like a drainage board or waterproof membrane. This will guarantee the longevity of the insulation and protect it from harm. Completing the insulation correctly also aids in preventing water intrusion, which over time may result in serious issues.

You can improve the comfort and energy efficiency of your home by properly insulating your basement from the outside by following these steps. This project can be a fulfilling do-it-yourself project that pays off in the long run with a little work and attention to detail.

Step	Description
1. Prepare the Surface	Clean the exterior basement wall to remove dirt, dust, and any loose material.
2. Apply Waterproofing	Use a waterproofing membrane or sealant to prevent moisture from penetrating the walls.
3. Install Insulation Panels	Attach rigid foam insulation panels to the exterior walls for effective thermal insulation.
4. Protect the Insulation	Cover the insulation with a protective layer, such as a drainage board or another protective coating, to prevent damage.
5. Backfill the Trench	Carefully backfill the trench with soil, ensuring proper drainage away from the house.

Making sure your basement is adequately insulated from the outside is essential to keeping your house cozy and energy-efficient. You can do it yourself and make sure your basement stays warm and dry by adhering to a few important steps. To stop moisture intrusion, thoroughly clean and prepare the external walls before applying a waterproof membrane. Next, add a layer of thermal protection by installing rigid foam insulation panels. Lastly, to keep water away from the foundation, backfill with soil and make sure proper drainage is in place. You can effectively insulate your basement and shield your house from the elements with the right supplies and a little work.

Requirements for external insulation

The base’s external thermal protection system must shield it from local climate variations. The following are the primary prerequisites for protection:

1. Low thermal conductivity.
2. Highest moisture and steam resistance. Material that absorbs water is not able to retain thermal energy and over time loses its protective functions, especially at sub-zero air temperatures; the moisture accumulated in the heat insulator hardens, destroying its structure.
3. Highest level of resistance to compressive loads. The soil exerts significant pressure on the base, and for the heat insulator it is very important that this indicator does not affect the structure.
4. Resistance to biological contaminants.

The insulation will quickly become deformed if it is exposed to the growth of mold and mildew. Additionally, materials with heat-protective qualities should keep out dangerous insects and rodents.

How and what material to choose?

Structure of the plinth exposed to adverse atmospheric conditions throughout all of Russia:

• increased groundwater levels,
• surface flooding,
• thermal stress,
• penetration of radon gases,
• condensation,
• mold and heat loss.

Insulating the basement’s exterior and internal walls will be necessary to get rid of them entirely.

Materials with a low heat transfer coefficient, strong moisture resistance, and low cost are necessary for thermal protection of such a house surface.

The following is most frequently utilized for base thermal protection based on these criteria:

• polyurethane foam,
• Styrofoam,
• penofol,
• expanded polystyrene,
• mineral wool.

Polyurethane foam

This type of insulation is all-purpose and comes in a polymer-sprayed material. The application technology claims that it can plug cracks and other surface flaws in the structure and cover any configuration of surface.

After application, the material solidifies and becomes 100% resistant to water and steam. This ensures that the base is consistently shielded from outside threats and eliminates the need for extra moisture insulation. For several decades, such insulation can be used with confidence.

Its use has drawbacks such as high processing costs and the requirement for specialized spraying equipment. In light of this, you will have to hire experts to apply polyurethane foam or rent it.

Expanded polystyrene

Furthermore, when building materials are exposed to water for an extended period of time, their absorption of water increases to 4-5% of their volume, reducing their thermal and cold resistance. Experimental research has demonstrated that the foam loses 13–15% of its strength for every 25 freezing/thawing cycles.

In addition to having good thermal characteristics and a longer service life, the original building material was of high quality and had a closed cell structure that prevented moisture buildup. It can be successfully implemented for base thermal insulation because of these conditions.

Expanded polystyrene benefits:

1. Able to withstand temperature fluctuations from -50 to +75 C.
2. Easy to install and has a long service life, about 50 years.
3. Highest frost resistance.
4. Resistance to biological damage from insects and rodents.
5. Possibility of using sheet joints with ridge installation, as a result of which the heat insulator will not have cold bridges.

The main drawback of polystyrene foam as an insulator is its high flammability. Every modification of this type of heat insulator has a G4/G3 flammability class, and when it smolders, harmful substances are released into the atmosphere.

This material’s high cost is another drawback. But this isn’t a big deal, or so many users believe, guaranteeing that thermal insulation created with this technology will quickly cover all of the expenses incurred because of the considerable savings on the home’s heating supply.

Styrofoam

Because of its affordability, this building material has withstood the test of time and is presently ranked among the TOP 5 most widely used basement insulation technologies.

However, the developer should consider the following factors before choosing to use polystyrene foam to thermally protect the base:

• ordinary polystyrene foam can burn and emit harmful substances; to work, it will require modification with special additives that prevent the combustion process;
• the material is damaged by mice, so you need to take care of the reliable lining of the base;
• inexpensive, loose material with a huge number of pores is capable of allowing steam to pass through and absorb moisture, so its heat-protective characteristics decrease.

Consequently, buying foam boards with a density of at least 38 kg/m3 is advised. Grades PSB-S 25 or 35 are appropriate for these kinds of tasks. Because these modifications have the highest density, they will be more resilient to mechanical loads.

There are two to ten centimeters of tile thickness options. Furthermore, the material’s performance characteristics won’t alter even at temperatures between -60 and +80 C. This kind of insulation has an average service life of more than 25 years, and it can last longer if the thermal insulation "pie" is constructed in compliance with all instructions.

Moreover, polystyrene foam has drawbacks, the most notable of which are its extreme fragility and low bending strength. Furthermore, if the waterproofing is done improperly and the slab laying technology is breached, moisture may seep into the upper layers of the insulation, where it may freeze and start the grinding process.

Mineral wool

This kind is fiber insulation, which is created from glass waste and quartz sand. Long filaments formed by molten magma are used to create protective rolls that have the following properties:

1. Low thermal conductivity coefficient.
2. Chemical inertness, mineral wool is passive and resistant to aggressive substances.
3. Stability, not subject to rotting and deformation from rodents.
4. Environmental Safety.
5. Fire resistance.

A few other benefits of mineral wool are its affordable cost and relatively light weight as a building material. The material does have certain disadvantages, though: safety regulations must be followed during installation, and the performer must wear protective gear to prevent microscopic fibers from penetrating the skin and entering the respiratory system.

Fibrous material must also be protected from moisture; bitumen treatment of the plinth side of the structure is advised, and suitable building material and a waterproof membrane should be used for cladding on the exterior.

It’s also important to consider that the glass wool gradually settles and compresses during operation; as a result, the heat insulator will need to be replaced after five to seven years.

Penofol

This relatively thin polyethylene foam, which is often offered in rolls, has an aluminum coating on both sides.Even now, foil is regarded as the most sophisticated material for thermal insulation.

Its foil surface, which reflects cold and stops moisture and steam from penetrating, enhances the foam structure’s superior thermal performance.

Penofol is glued to the surface, and metallized adhesive tape is used to glue the joints. It can be utilized alone or in conjunction with polymer insulation as a heat insulator. The material’s primary drawback is its extremely high price.

Comparison of average prices in the Russian Federation for heat insulators

Base thermal insulators are a market that includes both imported and domestic goods. The cost and service life of the latter are higher. Each region has a 10%–15% price difference, with Moscow having the highest.

Comparison of base insulation price indicators according to material efficiency:

1. Akterm Standard white 10 l, from – 60 to +150 C, thermal conductivity 0.0011 W/(m*K), 3,650 rub./bucket
2. Sprayed insulation Polynor professional 1000 ml, from -45 to +90 C, thermal conductivity 0.024 W/(m*K), steam permeability 0.045 mg/(m•h•Pa), from 490 RUR./PC.
3. Penoplex Fastfix, sprayed, from -80 to +115 C, thermal conductivity 0.025 W/(m*K), from 500 rub./PC.
4. Penofol A-10, polyethylene foam, 15.000×1.200×10 mm, from -40 to +100 C, heat capacity 1.95 J/kg*K, thermal conductivity 0.04 W/(m*C), vapor permeability 0.0011 mg/m*h*Pa, from 1 450 rub./PC.
5. Polyethylene foam Tepofol NPE 10 mm, from -60 to +80 C, thermal capacity 1.94 J/kg*K, K thermal conductivity 0.04 W/(m*S), steam permeability 0.001 mg/m*h*Pa, from RUB 1,115./PC.
6. Isover, plate 1.170x610x100 mm based on quartz, 7 slabs per package, from -50 to +110 C, thermal conductivity 0.04 W/(m*K), vapor permeability 0.7 mg/m*h*Pa, from 800 RUR./pack.
7. Ursa GEO M-11 10.000×1.200×50 mm 2 pcs. in a bag, from -50 to +260C, thermal conductivity 0.038 W/(m*S), vapor permeability 0.64 mg/m*h*Pa, from RUB 1,450./pack.
8. Ursa Heat Standard, extruded polystyrene foam, 1.230x610x50 mm 12 pieces per bag from -60 to +220 C, density 35 kg/m2, thermal conductivity coefficient 0.04 W/(m*K), from 475 RUR./pack, 4000 rub./m3.

Step-by-step instructions for carrying out work

The effectiveness of the heat protection process and the precise application of the technology will determine the insulation’s lifespan and the thermal conditions it can offer.

The material’s manufacturer provides a description of the precise technology at work, which is also listed in the technical documentation. You must set up the tools and insulation before you begin.

Tools and building materials

The first step is to choose a heat insulator, keeping in mind that the building material’s density needs to be high. Similar to this, you’ll need a mesh for reinforcement when applying putty and plastic dowels to secure the heat insulator.

Additional materials you’ll need:

• putty,
• dye,
• primer.

Essential instrument:

• bevel corner,
• construction hammer and knife,
• bar 1 m,
• serrated spatula,
• brushes and roller.

Calculation of the required amount of raw materials

The amount of insulation used is determined by several factors, including base modifications and area, local weather where the object is located, and heat insulator brand. It is simple to calculate the area and perimeter of the walls that need to be processed by using basic geometric formulas to know the plinth’s external parameters.

The volume and cost are computed using the insulation’s properties, which are derived from the manufacturer’s passport data. For instance, the insulation used in Ursa Heat Standard is 5 cm thick.

First information:

1. Base height, 220 cm.
2. Insulation density, 35 kg/m3.
3. Number of windows 4, dimensions 50×100 cm.
4. One door, dimensions 90×200 mm.
5. Price for 1 cubic meter of insulation, 4053 rubles.
6. Price for 1 dowel, 5 rubles.

The perimeter walls’ total length is 40 meters (10+10+10+10). In light of the openings, the working area of the cladding insulation will be 40×2.2 + 2 -4×0.5×1.0-1×2.0x0.9 = m2.

Insulation needed in the amount of 84.20×0.05=4.21 m^3. Insulation weight: 4.21×35 kg/m3 = 147.35 m3. The cost of the insulation is 17063.13 rubles (147.35 m3 x 4053 rubles). 505 pieces of dowels are needed. Dowel cost: 505 pieces x 5 rubles, or 2525.00 rubles.

Preparing the base

The base must be prepared before insulation is applied, and the primary task at hand is to use the trenching method to dig a foundation that is 1-1.5 meters wide and follows the entire perimeter of the building. Digging to the full depth of the basement and foundation is required because this is the depth at which the soil freezes.

Detailed description of installation

Next, to make sure the protective material lasts a long time, use a hard steel brush to clean the basement’s surface and level it if needed.

Plaster components are used to level surfaces and are applied to the beacon slats and attached mesh. After finishing the task, give yourself some time to let the plaster fully dry.

The base’s thermal insulation algorithm:

• waterproof the surface with liquid rubber, spreading it in the form of a paste on the surface;
• install the insulation, sheet configurations or mats are fixed with glue;
• protect the insulation from moisture, ultraviolet radiation, and wind;
• fix the reinforcing mesh for external decoration;
• fill the trench with expanded clay concrete;
• perform external finishing of the base.

Differences in the technology of insulating the base on a strip foundation

The strip foundation is also completely cleaned of cement mortar residues prior to beginning insulation. If any base flaws, such as cracks, are discovered, they are filled with cement mortar and given time to fully dry.

Because polystyrene foam is made with large dimensions and the tape base typically has a height of up to 30 cm, the master will need to use a hacksaw to cut the sheets to fit the base.

Next, using a notched spatula, evenly apply the mounting solution to the sheet’s surface by diluting it in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. The insulation is pressed firmly to the surface and a mesh is placed between the slab and the base.

Additionally, the tiles are firmly bonded together to prevent gaps at the joints. Umbrella-shaped dowels are used to secure the thermal insulation tiles to the base once the glue has dried, and polyurethane foam is used to seal the spaces between the sheets. Once the excess mesh has been cut away with scissors, the polystyrene foam plane is primed and covered with putty.

Possible mistakes

A novice worker needs to be aware of all the challenges associated with handling heat-insulating materials. After weighing all the potential consequences of a poor installation, he must determine whether to hire experts or do the base’s thermal insulation himself.

The primary errors committed during base insulation:

1. Use of cheap material installed with low pressure.
2. Failure to comply with temperature conditions: below 5 or above 25 C.
3. The work was carried out during rain or high atmospheric humidity.
4. Violation of technology and preparation of the working surface.
5. Starting bar not set.
6. The tiles were not installed in a checkerboard pattern.
7. Incomplete fastening of thermal insulation to the surface of the base. The dowel was recessed into the thermal insulation, with excessive indentation, which resulted in the formation of cold bridges.
8. Exposing thermal insulation for a long time without a protective coating outdoors in bad weather.
9. No primer was used before decorative plaster.

How to eliminate them?

The majority of errors made during the base insulation process cannot be undone; the job must be restarted from scratch. Only two situations warrant rectification: either the plinth strip was plastered over from the plinth side in vain, or it was only securely fastened at the ends. As a result, the plaster has a low adherence to metal and falls off easily.

Increasing the quantity of base rail connectors is required to fix the error. To make room for the rail, the lower edge of the sheets is cut off for this purpose. Next, remove 10 centimeters of plaster from above the removed area.

Afterwards, it will be feasible to locate the area lacking screws and proceed with their installation. After that, secure the insulation and place the new mesh 10 cm over the old.

This section contains a wealth of significant and practical information regarding basement insulation.

Video on the topic of the article

You can learn the best way to insulate the base from the video:

A vital first step in improving your home’s overall energy efficiency and comfort is properly insulating the basement from the outside. In addition to saving money, doing it yourself guarantees that the task is completed to your exact specifications. The secret is to pay attention to detail, use the proper materials, and follow the right procedures.

Prioritize cleaning and repairing any cracks or damages on the exterior walls. By doing this, the insulation is guaranteed to adhere correctly and last longer. Making the proper insulation material choice—rigid foam boards, for example—can have a big impact. These materials offer superior moisture control and thermal resistance.

To keep moisture out of your insulation and basement walls, you must install a waterproof membrane. Over time, this step helps prevent structural damage and the growth of mold. After the membrane is in position, you can firmly fasten the insulating boards, making sure they fit tightly and completely cover the surface.

The procedure will be finished by backfilling the excavated area with soil and making sure that proper drainage is in place. This is a critical step in keeping water from collecting around the foundation and jeopardizing your insulation work. You can have a well-insulated basement that makes your house warmer and more energy-efficient with careful design and implementation.

Video on the topic

Insulating the basement of a house from the outside. How to insulate a basement? Insulation of facade walls with expanded polystyrene

HOW TO INSULATE THE BASE The best option

How to finish the foundation with stone-like façade panels and insulate it with penoplex. 100 Houses Tyumen.